Chocolate High: Climate change threatens not just our daily sugar rush but farmers’ livelihoods and producers’ bottom lines

Global sugar prices recently hit a 12-year high and cocoa futures spiked to levels not seen in 40 years. These are essential ingredients for chocolate and many manufacturers across the globe are voicing concerns about prices and supply constraints as climate change alters weather patterns.

Cocoa futures are believed to have soared due to fears of a “mediocre harvest”, according to Yves Brahima Koné, head of the Coffee and Cocoa Council in the Ivory Coast, who cited too much rain and little sunshine. Yields of coffee have also been affected by erratic weather.

Some chocolate manufacturers are so alarmed by the hikes in sugar and cocoa prices that they have been literally “praying for prices to drop all year”, the Financial Times reports. Nestle reportedly might pass on additional costs to the consumer on a selective basis for their chocolate and coffee products as input cost inflation continues to bite.

Weathering the storm

Professor Huw Dixon, an economist at Cardiff Business School, believes the cause of high sugar prices is primarily a short-term phenomenon driven by weather – in particular less rain in East Asia and India affecting sugar cane, combined with too much winter rain in Europe dampening beet. He believes the prices of these input commodities should even out, stating: “They may rise in the short run, but if weather conditions are more normal in the next harvest cycle they should return to more usual levels.”

Despite this optimism, the more long-term effects of climate change on yields of sugar and cocoa are less certain. West Africa is by far the biggest producer of the world’s cacao beans, which can only be grown in areas with the specific climatic conditions of good moisture levels and year- round high temperatures. The beans grow best in rainforests and within 10 degrees of the equator.

Academic research has not painted a clear picture cocerning long-term change in rain patterns, but worrying predictions abound, including that about half the cocoa belt in Africa will be unproductive by 2050 due to the effects of climate change.

Chocolatiers feel the pinch

In Hong Kong there are numerous specialist bean-to-bar chocolate manufacturers who are concerned about long-term supply and pricing considerations. Local producer Chocobien makes luxury chocolate using raw cacao beans and cane sugar, including the premium line of Kusa from Pure Nacional cacao grown above an altitude of 3,500 feet in Peru. A tempering and moulding process creates the aged chocolate bar.

According to Chocobien Chocolatier founder Arron Liu, the company has been confronting spikes in input prices of commodities in recent years. “The price of raw cacao beans and cane sugar has been increasing about five to six percent every year,” he says. “This has increased the production cost of our products.”

Despite surging costs, Chocobien has refrained from passing on increased costs to the consumer in a bid to retain its customer base. The retail price remains at the same level as 2020. “This means we are forced to reduce the balance on our net profit,” he explains.

Climate change wreaking havoc

However, Liu worries about the long-term consequences of global warming hitting suppliers and their ability to produce the all-important commodities of sugar and cocoa. “As global warming continues, its influence on the growth of the cacao tree and sugarcane will continue and get worse, which will be reflected in the price as the result,” he says.

He regularly receives updated supply information from their cacao farmers, with reports indicating a reduction in cacao beans every year due to too much heavy rain or drought caused by high temperatures. He believes these changing weather patterns are likely due to global warming or climate change, and fears for the impact on their suppliers and their families.

As to whether these developments will affect the range and sizes of his products, Liu says: “At the moment, it has increased our cost of production, but it might affect our business development in the long term, such as decisions on price range, a more limited scale of production and the ability to compete with other commercial products.”

Growing shift to Asia

Gavin Chan of Gamma Craft Chocolate notes the company has experienced a shortage in certain specific cacao varieties due to heavy rainfall in Central America – for instance, they were forced to stop selling one of their products for almost a year.

He fears global warming could affect the quality of cacao and production size in the traditional growing countries. Alternative sources from newly emerging countries are a possibility, however. “Some new cacao-producing countries like Taiwan, China and Thailand may benefit since the micro-climate may change there, making it possible to grow better quality cacao in regions that we have never imagined,” he opines.

Another local chocolatier, JOL Cacao, has experienced cost pressures due to price hikes in logistics. It makes bean-to-bar chocolate from Fairtrade-sourced cacao beans and cane and coconut sugar as well as chocolate flavoured with coffee beans. They fear climate change will also limit the harvest of cacao beans in the future, eventually leading to price increases. “I am afraid that there will be impact on the quality as well,” says a company spokesperson.

Lower yields, less land

Dr Nick Girkin, senior lecturer in plant soil systems at Cranfield University in the UK, says commodity prices are often affected by adverse weather conditions, which are exacerbated by climate change. “Longer-term climate impacts will result in lower yields and increasing costs, resulting in higher commodity prices,” he says, adding that instability in pricing in the longer term is likely.

His examination of evidence on how climate change will impact the availability of land suitable for coffee cultivation suggests the decrease in area of production is country-specific, but can range from 11% to 60% in some countries. The coffee trade is dominated by Arabica and Robusta and periods of prolonged drought are problematic for the development of flower buds, as are temperatures outside the optimal ranges. “Indirect effects such as climate impacts on pollinators can further affect production,” he notes.

Sustainable solution?

Girkin believes consumption patterns may change. “As climate change continues to adversely affect farmers (and consumers,) I would expect a growing demand for chocolate and coffee that is grown sustainably.”

He adds: “There are various potential environmental solutions that might have potential to build resilient coffee production and the production of other crops.” Pointing to regenerative farming, he notes the strides this has made in conserving water resources as well as minimising agrochemical inputs and reducing levels of soil disturbance.

A recent major survey covering 10,000 small- scale farmers in 18 countries by Solidaridad, an international civil society, highlighted climate change as farmers’ most significant concern.

Going for Gold: Godiva’s latest collection gets creative

Godiva hosted a star-studded launch party to celebrate its new Gold Discovery Collection at the IFC Mall atrium. Guests were treated to an exhibition on the origin of chocolate, as well as live tastings of the latest flavours.

Gafencu sat with Belgium-based Godiva Master Chef Chocolatier Jean Apostolou and Shanghai-based Chef Chocolatier Philippe Daue to find out more about this latest collection.

What is the inspiration for this new collection?

Chef Jean: The collection is a revamp, a reinterpretation of classic Godiva flavours with a contemporary twist. The point of this collection is not to shock people, but to reintroduce them to the 2.0 version of old favourites while also introducing some new ingredients and textures.

What new flavours can we expect?

Chef Jean: The collection has 16 different flavours. We’ve included a greater variety of fruits and nuts and introduced caramels to the mix. We’ve also boosted the texture of each bite by experimenting with mousse fillings and ganaches for example. It’s a surprising collection because each piece is drastically different from the next.

Did you take inspiration from regional ingredients?

Chef Philippe: As an international brand, we are constantly exchanging ideas with our chefs across the world to stay on the cutting edge of flavour development.

For this collection there are some very Asian flavours such as lychee and passion fruit. Nuts are also an Asian favourite, so that’s something we’ve built upon. Pistachio, macadamia, pecan, etc. have been used as a response to current global tastes.

Why did you focus on Asian tastes?

Chef Philippe: Firstly, Asia is home to an immense variety of ingredients that are not traditionally found or paired with chocolate. As a chef, it’s very exciting and refreshing to experiment with these flavours and create something new.

Also, Asia is one of our largest growing markets. Asians are becoming more educated in chocolate culture now, and we want to capture that interest by including some familiar tastes.

Which is your favourite from the collection, and why?

Chef Jean: My favourite is the almond one. The sweetness of the chocolate with that hint of salt rounded off by the crunch of a whole almond is just fantastic.

Chef Philippe: I love the pistachio one. It’s a hard nut to work with and to balance out. Jean has found the perfect combination, and the result is delicious!

Thank you.

The new Gold Discovery Collection is now available in Hong Kong.
Godiva Gold Discovery Chocolate Gift Box 6pcs: HK$180
Godiva Gold Discovery Chocolate Gift Box 9pcs: HK$260
Godiva Gold Discovery Chocolate Gift Box15pcs: HK$415
Godiva Gold Discovery Chocolate Gift Box 20pcs: HK$525

Interview: Tenzing Thondup

The new Wagyu: Why chocolate-fed cows taste better

 

Along the Limestone Coast of South Australia, thousands of chocolate-fed cattle are destined to become cash cows for restaurateurs in Hong Kong and around the world.

Born and bred on a 3,000-hectare farm, the Wagyu cattle are fed a grain diet supplemented with sweet treats – namely Cadbury chocolate and biscuits – which give the beef its distinctive taste.

Although it’s derived from Wagyu cattle, this “luxury” beef is wholly an Australian product and tastes different from its Japanese counterpart. For that reason, it has been named after the Mayura Station in Australia, which was first established as a pastoral operation in 1845.

Distributed throughout Hong Kong by premium food supplier Waves Pacific, Mayura beef appears on the menu at several award-winning restaurants including The Four Seasons, Otto e Mezzo, Arcane, Serge et le Phoque and Le Garcon Saigon.

At Otto e Mezzo, the Mayura bone-in ribeye is one of the signature dishes. Similarly, The Lounge at The Four Seasons whips up a medley of beef dishes that would impress any meat lover, two of which are made from Mayura beef.

The grilled Mayura sirloin – beautifully plated with young tropea onion, trumpet zucchini and cherry blossom salt – is both tender and flavourful.

It’s not easy producing beef which boasts both of these qualities, says Scott de Bruin, managing partner at the Mayura Station in Australia. The cattle at Mayura Station live for 24-30 months, which is nearly double the life span of cattle raised on larger farms. 

“The younger the cattle, the more tender the beef, but the older the cattle, the more flavour you get,” De Bruin says.

“It’s hard for a lot of people to produce older cattle and still keep it tender, but on the flip side you’ve got to have a balance of good, robust flavour and tenderness. That’s the challenge, but it’s what we do so well at Mayura.”

 

The Lounge also serves a 250g Mayura striploin renowned for its depth of flavour, which is where the chocolate factors in.

“When you compare (beef) products that are grilled you’ll find that they often have some bitterness in flavour, whereas this doesn’t. It has a natural sweetness,” De Bruin says.

The decision to feed Mayura cattle chocolate was initially a matter of necessity, but it quickly became a matter of taste. Corn doesn’t grow well in South Australia, so they analysed the feed given to Wagyu cattle in Japan in search of alternatives. They discovered that the ingredients in chocolate are similar to the ingredients used in more traditional feed.

“As you can imagine, the cows love it,” De Bruin says. “It also has a positive effect on the meat’s taste. We did stop using chocolate in the cow’s diets once, but customers noticed the difference very quickly so we had to revert back.”

De Bruin says people who try Mayura beef tend to be lifelong buyers once they become hooked on its one-of-a-kind flavour.

Mayura Station also offers a “paddock to plate” tasting experience for beef lovers who happen to find themselves in South Australia. For more information, visit www.mayurastation.com/dining.

 

Text: Emily Petsko

Hong Kong chocolatiers look to raise the bar

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA

Chocolate has come a long way. From its humble origins when it was consumed in only its purest form, free of all those scrumptious little add-ons – caramel, nuts, dried fruits, nougat and so on – the moreish foodstuff continues to evolve. The forms and shapes it now comes in are myriad. And surprisingly, it’s not always world-renowned chocolatiers in Switzerland and Belgium that are leading the charge. Asian chocolate makers are getting in on the act too, with tasty – and sometimes downright outlandish – combinations.

Click here to watch the video

Chai with chaga mushroom. Raspberry with rose and açai. Blueberry lavender. Cherry chilli. If these flavour combinations sound unusual on their own, try mixing them with chocolate. These pairings might prove the perfect amuse-bouche, giving your taste buds a pleasant tingle.

They are also the premium chocolate flavours that have been lovingly crafted by Raiz the Bar, a Hong Kong-based, family-owned business and – most notably – the first bean-to-bar organic chocolatier in the city. While other brands ship over frozen chocolate, or melt down couvertures (chocolate blocks) from Europe to create their own confections, Raiz the Bar starts from the finest raw ingredients to create its bespoke confectionary.

Cocoa farmer David Kebu Jnr holding the finished product, dried cocoa beans ready for export. Photo taken by Irene Scott for AusAID. (13/2529)

The company was founded by two Australian sisters, who are part of a growing group that is leading a vegan, gluten-free, health-conscious movement in Hong Kong. While this trend is well established in Western countries, it has been slow to take off in Asia.

However, this is all starting to change. While the low-cost chocolate confectionary treats found on the shelves of Hong Kong’s multitudinous 7-Elevens – think Twix and KitKat – still dominate market share, premium chocolate (especially dark chocolate) is experiencing high growth. This is led in part by an increasingly health-savvy consumer base. Perhaps most surprisingly, Asia is behind that demand.

“Growth of the chocolate industry over the last decade has been driven in large part by an increasing awareness of the health benefits of certain types of chocolate and growing popularity in Asia Pacific countries,” states a report by Value Research. “As consumers in these areas grow more accustomed to ‘western’ tastes, demand for chocolate has been booming.”

Rising incomes in Asia, particularly in China and India, are expected to contribute to a 30 percent increase in the global demand for cocoa over the next three years.

The report also found that “unique products and consumption experiences are keeping consumers coming back for more.”
According to Priscilla Soligo, who runs Raiz the Bar alongside her sister, Rachel Whitfield: “Our chocolates are free of refined sugar, dairy, gluten, soy, peanuts, tree nuts and GMOs. There is absolutely zero junk in our chocolates.”


“Our chocolates are free of refined sugar, dairy, gluten, soy, peanuts and tree nuts. There is absolutely zero junk in our chocolates”

In fact, the bars are considered so healthy that they are sold in wellness centres around Hong Kong, and the foodstuffs will soon be available for purchase in mainland China and other countries. The question, then, is how does Raiz the Bar ensure a taste that meets the high standards of chocolate aficionados?

The answer – like the brand’s ethos – can be traced back to the bean itself. Instead of using milk or coconut oil, cacao butter is extracted from the bean and mixed with the chocolate to produce a finished product that is creamy and smooth.

Rather than roasting their cacao beans – like most chocolate makers – they leave the beans raw for a pure, unadulterated taste of “real chocolate” without the distraction of other flavours that emerge during the roasting process. The beans, which are sourced primarily from Indonesia, are fermented and dried, then compressed to extract the cacao nibs and cacao butter. Once these products are ground down and liquefied, the chocolate is tempered and other flavours are added to the mix.

The result is a product that is high in magnesium (which aids muscle recovery) and has a low glycemic index. Chocolate is also one of the best sources of phenylethylamines. These compounds are naturally produced in the brain and often called the “love drug” for their ability to arouse feelings similar to the elation that comes with being particularly smitten.

It’s unsurprising, then, that chocolate lovers are willing to part with top dollar for that cacao-based feel-good hit. Despite fluctuations in chocolate prices due to extreme weather and political instability in some cacao-producing countries, the average chocolate consumer will spare no expense when it comes to this decadent treat, according to Value Research.

Chocolate_melanger
“Chocolate consumers are considerably price insensitive,” the report states. “Except in rare circumstances consumers are willing to purchase what they consider an ‘affordable luxury.’”

This is backed up by just how much chocoholics are willing to spend to sink their teeth into the tasty foodstuff.

For the ultimate in luxury cocoa comfort, sweet tooths should consider To’ak, an Ecuador-based brand that has repeatedly claimed the title as the world’s most expensive chocolate. One particular offering, the Vintage 2014 bar, retails for US$345 (HK$2,680) per 1.76 ounces. Much like how a fine brandy or wine is aged in barrels, the chocolate is placed for 18 months in a 50-year-old French oak Cognac cask. Only 100 bars were produced – all of which quickly sold out.

As described by To’ak: “The finest of wines, be they from Bordeaux or Napa or Tokaj (in Hungary), allow us the privilege of tasting the valley in which the grape was grown. We wanted to offer this same privilege to connoisseurs of chocolate.

“The idea of ageing our chocolate in a Cognac cask came about quite naturally. Of all the spirits that we paired To’ak with, Cognac in general was always the best partner. In most cases, the progeny of the two flavors – spirit and chocolate – was an enhancement of both. In the best of cases, the combination could rightfully be described as sublime.”

Even if they do say so themselves. But there’s little doubt the Ecuadorian chocolatier takes its craft seriously.

The brand’s “tasting guide” sounds similar to the steps that would be taken at a wine tasting. It recommends cleansing the palate with green apple or white bread, then observing the colour and sheen of the chocolate, followed by the cracking sound when the bar is split into a bite-sized piece. After that, it’s time for the sniff and taste test.

 “Some chocolatiers even experiment with distinctly Chinese flavours like fermented bean curd, black garlic and black sesame”

The chocolate purists at To’ak even pack a pair of hand-made, tweezer-like “tasting utensils” into each box of chocolate to prevent any scents on the consumer’s skin from muddling the aroma, and to avoid any “corruption” of the flavour that could be caused by skin contact.

What consumers are paying for is the taste, of course, but also time. It’s a long and laborious process to take a cacoa bean and turn it into a premium dark chocolate with a taste that is exceptional enough to make consumers overlook the price tag.

Other luxury chocolate brands, like La Maison du Chocolat and Godiva, have also been popular among Chinese consumers – proof that for many, quality rather than economy is the main consideration.

Another homegrown Hong Kong business is Vero. It has been a staple in the city’s chocolate industry for over a decade. The artisanal brand no longer has any retail locations, except for a few occasional pop-up shops, and has instead shifted focus to the bespoke and luxury market. Many of Vero’s clients include corporations, banks and hotels looking for a unique way to increase their brand recognition – and Vero has taken an all-consuming approach to this challenge.

Company logos are not only imprinted onto and engraved into Vero’s chocolates, but they can also be moulded onto chocolates through the use of a 3-D machine, giving the logo a raised effect rather than a sunken or flat surface. This service has been hugely popular and is evidence of the growing demand for a chocolate that not only tastes good, but it also aesthetically pleasing and beautifully packaged.

Vero - Signature Dark Square -16pcs gift box_path“The taste, of course, is important, but I think that the look of it – the shape, as well, and the colour (are equally important),” says Christine Chan, director of business development at Vero. “If you see the Japanese market, the trend is to use a lot of different colours – very sharp, very colourful. People are looking for something more than just plain dark chocolate.”

Vero starts with a couverture containing fresh ingredients from France, Italy and Belgium, then melts it down and adds unique ingredients, sometimes even experimenting with distinctly Chinese flavours like fermented bean curd, black garlic and black sesame, while also sticking to tried-and-tested ingredients like salted caramel and hazelnut.

One unique limited edition set called “Lunar,” released for the Mid-Autumn Festival last year, included miniature chocolates shaped like the moon, with craters and varying shapes and colours. It featured a white chocolate full moon, different shades of milk chocolate and ended with a dark chocolate eclipse, with fillings including toasted black sesame, raspberry jelly, and yuzu and mandarin pearls.

While bespoke chocolate makers are unlikely to surpass the sales of corporate giants like Nestlé and Hershey’s anytime soon, a finely crafted artisanal chocolate will always be a worthy investment among consumers with refined tastes.

Perhaps American actress Mariska Hargitay put it best: “Chocolate is the first luxury. It has so many things wrapped up in it: deliciousness in the moment, childhood memories and that grin-inducing feeling of getting a reward for being good.”

And even when no reward is merited, a piece of chocolate just tastes so darned good.

Text: Emily Petsko

Feeling extravagant? Splurge on the world’s most expensive Easter eggs

Easter is a time for chocolate treats and what better way to celebrate than with a luxuriously decadent creation from UK-based chocolate company, Choccywoccydoodah. The eggs, which cost £25,000 (HK$240,900) weigh in at 100kg and feature Fabergé-style designs inspired by the 19th-century gifts bestowed on Russian tsars.

Coming in a trio and handcrafted from Belgium chocolate, each egg depicts mythical creatures such as unicorns, although custom designs can also be ordered. One design features a scene of Brighton’s Royal Pavillion where the company has a store. Each egg takes about three weeks to create and potential buyers are expected to be overseas investors or members of royal families.

Choccywoccydoodah’s owner and creative director Christine Taylor said, “I have always loved the actual Fabergé eggs. There will be people who will set their hearts on them and want to order them. We do have customers who will spend money if they want it enough.”

However, if you don’t mind splurging on inedible eggs, the ‘Mirage’ egg, created by Manfred Wild is an even more decadent purchase. Encrusted with 1,000 diamonds on the outer shell – 100 of which are brilliant-cut – the egg opens up to reveal an ornate globe made out of 18-carat gold. The globe lifts to reveal a rock crystal dove on a gold olive branch, which is designed to symbolise world peace.

The ‘Mirage’ took three years to make with elite craftsman across three continents all contributing to the process. The egg costs a cool £5 million, about the same price as a central London home, with the outer diamonds alone valued at £1.5 million.

Click here for more information.

Text: Siobhan Brewood-Wyatt