Spring Time – Stylistic Watches are a Motif for all the 365 Days

Just as the embrace of Chinese culture has become one of the fastest-growing phenomena of the 21st century, so too has the Chinese New Year – or the Spring Festival – established itself as an event of truly international proportions. Typically honoured in all of the largest cities around the world, citizens of every nationality now look forward to processions, street dances, and all the paraphernalia traditionally associated with the most important date on the Chinese calendar.

Inevitably, this has not been lost on many of the world’s biggest brands, companies never known to miss out on a commercial opportunity. In particular, luxury precision watchmakers – ever mindful of the value of the Chinese and Hong Kong markets – have celebrated this Rabbit Year with custom limited edition timepieces.

Also Read: Time Warp: Six of the best – and quirkiest – watch dials on the market

Boasting octagonal-shaped cases, the Harry Winston Emerald watch collection features cases crafted in 18-karat white or rose gold. The 18mm models also boast a diamond-set bezel as a nod to the house’s “King of Diamonds” legacy. Available in mother-of-pearl, the dial is crowned with rubies in the form of an emerald cut. The standout from this collection comes with a red, classic alligator leather strap, which is a straight-out nod to traditional CNY festivities.

In celebration of 2023 being the Rabbit Year, IWC Schaffhausen has unveiled its Portugieser Automatic 40 Edition “Chinese New Year”. Housed in an ergonomic 40-millimetre stainless-steel case and featuring a striking burgundy dial and gold-plated hands and applique, a particular highlight is hidden at the back of the watch – the automatic winding mechanism’s gold-plated oscillating weight in the form of a rabbit.

The Hong Kong tourbillon brand Memorigin, meanwhile, is honouring its long-term commitment to promoting Chinese traditions through the launch of its Memorigin Zodiac Series. The periphery of the dial is designed in an auspicious fret pattern, while the indices are represented by rubies or blue sapphires. The watch is equipped with a manual-winding tourbillon movement that consists of 155 pieces of subassembly module and 18 jewels. In all, it has 40 hours of power reserve and a vibration frequency of 28,800 oscillations per hour.

Also Read: Buyer’s Guide: 7 impressive hyper-accurate tourbillon watches

Turning now to the OMEGA Constellation Aventurine, this features dials fashioned from natural Aventurine stone, meaning no two dials are ever alike, with options to choose bezels paved with diamonds or engraved with Roman numerals. The watch also features diamond-set bezels and skeletonised hour and minute hands, as well as dial-matching leather straps in red.

For its part, Parmigiani Fleurier has gone full-on Chinese with the launch of its Tonda PF Xiali Calendar, with its offer of a precision take on the Chinese calendar over the long haul said to be a world first. In order to deliver on this, the watch conceals an extremely sophisticated mechanism within an all-new movement – the Calibre PF008 – which facilitates the display of classical Chinese characters. As the Chinese calendar is not cyclical, the complication is mechanically programmed and extends across 12 years via an intricate cam system.

For its part, TUDOR has debuted new versions of its Black Bay line in steel and yellow gold with a fixed bezel. These Black Bay 31, 36, 39 and 41 S&G models, as they are known, proffer a unique aesthetic with their T-curved cases intermittently highlighted with polished yellow gold sections. Fitted with Manufacture Calibres, including reference MT5201, one of the marque’s new family of movements, these models are said to be at the very cutting edge of technical watchmaking refinement.

Also Read: 7 stunning dive watch models that blend beautiful form with true functionality

Rounding off this month’s selection, Vacheron Constantin is looking to boost its appeal to the mainland and Hong Kong Haute horology aficionados and collectors by offering a customised rabbit-motif limited edition of its Métiers d’Art – The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac range for the Rabbit Year. The iconic representations appear on the dials and have to be etched directly into the metal, with the pattern remaining semi-embedded while standing out from its gold base thanks to a subtle array of accentuating reliefs designed to create an engaging depth effect.

(Text: Joseff Musa)

On Old Town Time: The ultimate Lijiang travel guide

There’s something mystical about Lijiang. More specifically, there’s something mystical about the Old Town of this famed Yunnan city. Perhaps it’s the meandering waterways, or the maze of cobbled streets lined with old-fashioned wooden houses. Perhaps it’s the plethora of ethnic-minority folk in traditional costumes. Whatever the case may be, Lijiang’s colourful sights and undeniably nostalgic aura have enchanted and enticed travellers for centuries, and latterly seen it immortalised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The political, commercial and cultural hub of the Naxi people since the seventh century AD, Lijiang subsequently came under the auspices of the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties of China. Yet, for many centuries, it was ruled by a single family, the Mu Clan. Thanks to a strategic position along the ancient Tea Horse Road – a network of caravan paths that traversed Sichuan, Yunnan, Burma and the Indian subcontinent – it was a crossroads for multiple ethnicities, and today remains a cultural melting pot that offers fascinating insights into China’s diverse indigenous populations.

Beyond that, however, Lijiang is blessed with splendid natural wonders, be it the soaring Jade Dragon Snow Peak, the impressive Tiger Leaping Gorge canyon or the tranquil Black Dragon Pool. Onward, then, to our round-up of the most visit-worthy spots in this compelling Chinese city.

Heritage Trail

Quaint, charming and romantically nostalgic, the Old Town of Lijiang in modern-day Guzheng district is understandably the city’s biggest tourist attraction. Given the confluence of picturesque waterways, 354 criss-crossing bridges and traditional Ming dynasty (1368-1644 AD) architecture, strolling along its cobblestone streets is akin to being transported back to much simpler times.

A UNESCO heritage location since 1997, it also affords a revealing window into the vibrant cultures of the Naxi, Bai and Tibetan minorities. Visitors can sample local delicacies such as chickpea bean jelly and baba (stuffed flat bread that can be either sweet or salty), and – if they’re lucky – catch a spontaneous circle dance led by women wearing colourful costumes. Trying on and perhaps purchasing these ornate garments is also a highlight of a stay here.

Yunnan Clan

Temple in the Jade Spring Park in Lijiang, China.

Located within the Old Town, Mufu Palace was once the residence of the Mu family, the hereditary chieftains who ruled the region until 1723. Though little is known about the clan’s origins, they governed the town well before Lijiang was incorporated into the newly risen Ming dynasty in the 14th century. In recognition of their legitimacy under the new regime, the Hongwu Emperor gave its then-leader, A-chia A-te, the Chinese name ‘Mu De’, with ‘Mu’ henceforth becoming the family’s official surname.

In its heyday, the Mufu Palace spanned some 16 acres. Sadly, military battles during the Qing dynasty would see much of its structure razed to the ground. Thankfully, the government initiated a complete rebuilding at the end of the 20th century, and today the complex not only offers an intimate look at both the official and personal quarters of the Mu clan, but also showcases an interesting blend of the Yuan, Ming and Qing architectural styles.

On Dragon Pond

Jade_Dragon_Snow_Mountain_Lijiang, China Gafencu Travel March 2022 — Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang China

A short walk north of the Old Town lies the resplendent Black Dragon Pool, set against the stunning backdrop of the snow-capped Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – the region’s tallest mountain at 5,596m. Built in 1737, it is officially listed in the government’s ‘Collection of Famous Pools in China’ and is part of the scenic Jade Spring Park. Perhaps one of the town’s most photogenic places, the pond abuts several beauty spots, including the Longshen Temple – also constructed in 1737 – the Moon-Embracing Pavilion and the Forest of Stone Steles. The latter is a museum housing some 3,000 steles – or standing stone slabs – with the most historically significant revealing the evolution of Naxi culture across the ages from the Tang dynasty (618 – 907 AD) to the 20th century.

Leaping Tiger

Lijiang, China Tiger Leaping Gorge Gafencu Travel March 2022 (2) — Tiger Leaping Gorge in Yunnan, China,

For those eager to explore beyond Lijiang, a trip to the Tiger Leaping Gorge may be just the ticket. Situated 60km from the town proper, the awe-inspiring gorge stretches some 15km along the Jinsha River, which wends its way between the towering Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the neighbouring 5,396m Haba Snow Mountain. It is the deepest river canyon in China, with a staggering drop of 3,900m from mountaintop to river bed.

Avid hikers may choose to walk its entire length, but most tourists are drawn to one spot in particular – the narrowest point of the gorge with a boulder perched in the middle. Why, you may ask? Because this is the spot where, according to legend, a tiger being tracked by a hunter found itself trapped between the gushing waters and certain death. In a bid to escape, the feline took a literal leap of faith and reached the other side of the 25m-wide expanse by jumping to and from the aforementioned boulder, thus finding freedom and giving the gorge its name.

Ladies of the Lake

Lijiang, China lugu lake Gafencu Travel March 2022 — Lugu Lake, Liajing, China

Explorers willing to undertake the four-hour drive to Lugu Lake (on the border of Yunnan and Sichuan) will find their patience rewarded. Known as the ‘pearl of the plateau’, the lake – the highest in Yunnan and the third deepest in China – boasts crystal-clear waters surrounded by verdant mountains. Comprising four peninsulas and six islands, its shores are home to many ethnic minorities, including the Norzu, Yi, Pumi, Tibetan and those close relatives of the Naxi, the matriarchal Mosuo people.

There’s much to see and do here, so opting for at least an overnight stay is highly recommended. Through tour operators in Lijiang, you can arrange such experiences as canoeing through the pristine water, cycling along its perimeter, visiting the various villages that dot the lake’s shores, and partaking in a thrilling bonfire party where the locals don traditional garb and sing and dance into the night. If you’re feeling particularly daring, you can even sample some homegrown spirits, join in the festivities and soak up some of the indigenous Mosuo charm.

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Dickson Yewn: Promoting Chinese heritage for a noble cause

Renowned Chinese jeweler Dickson Yewn and auction house Sotheby’s, have collaborated to showcase a strong exhibit of rare and unique classics with the aim of promoting Chinese heritage and fine arts. Coming together to raise funds for the Needle and Thread Charitable Foundation – a project which promotes the unique handicrafts of women in remote areas of China to a wider audience.

Promoting his works and enlightening the younger generation to their intangible heritage and cultural awareness is integral to Yewn’s artistic purpose. The focus of this exhibit includes a historic first – a Chinese tunic suit with the most intricate and beautiful embroidery from the southeast region of Guizhou.

Gafencu caught up with global artist Dickson Yewn to dig deeper into his artistic journey with this collaboration…

You’ve got global recognition through your work in fine arts and jewellery – what inspired you to support the Needle and Thread charity?
This charity is really close to my heart – they preserve the work of Chinese ethnic minorities. Most of these indigenous tribes are already fast disappearing and alongside their unique craftsmanship. Today, few young people want to get in the trade or pick up these ethnic skills. It’s a dying art and if I can do anything to honour the heritage, I will stitch together my purpose and function as an artist. Since 2008 I have been collaborating with Sotheby’s and this time I have some rare, iconic works up for auction, the proceeds from sale will go for a noble cause.

You’re showcasing some rare collectible items for the auction – throw light on these pieces.

*‘The Golden Kaiser-i-hind Butterfly’ brooch (left), ‘Dream of the Red Mansion’ wearable bangle (right)*

Alongside the traditional-crafted Chinese tunic, four of my works, two of which – namely, the ‘Golden Kaiser-i-hind Butterfly’ brooch and the 23^rd episode of the ‘Dream of the Red Mansion’ – are the rare collectible items up for live auction.

On a personal level, I am obsessed with nature – animals, insects species – butterfly watching is a hobby. I created the ‘Golden Kaiser-i-hind Butterfly’ shoulder brooch, with the intention of highlighting the species of the butterfly. There are more than 20,000 known species of butterfly and even though fauna-inspired fluttering designs are common in high jewellery, not one artist cares to educate people about the species of these delicate creatures. Through my collection, I try to change that notion while paying homage to these highly desirable beauties.

Were there any artistic challenges in designing the collection?

Infusion of wood with precious jewels was a challenge. Embracing unexpected materials always comes with its own obstacles and it’s more with wood because it is taboo in the jewellery industry. Wood jewellery is rare because it needs to be tended to for decades to resist chemical and temperature changes, it’s a labour-intensive process. The inlaid workmanship to incorporate rose-cut diamonds, circular-cut yellow sapphires and tsavorite garnets in 18 karat yellow gold without nails or glue is nothing short of extraordinary.

Bidding for artist and jeweller Dickson Yewn’s pieces for the Needle and Thread Charitable Foundation begins on 18th Feb/Sotheby’s Hong Kong Gallery.