The Best Dim Sum Spots in Hong Kong: Restaurants Serving The Tastiest Dim Sums
Dim Sums have become a favourite for many people because they are extremely flavourful and the choices when it comes to picking a dim sum are endless. Besides, there is nothing more mouth-watering and comforting than a steaming hot tray of this classic Chinese dish on any given day but they are particularly great to eat on a chilly or rainy day. Considering the random rain showers that we are seeing in Hong Kong in the last couple of days, we have put together the best restaurants to eat dim sums in the city.
Awarded a one-Michelin star for three years in a row, the Chinese cuisine Man Ho is one restaurant where you can find Hong Kong’s best dim sums that have found a place in almost every foodie’s heart. The eatery is known for being popular among ex-pats for adding a Western approach to this otherwise oriental dish that is made with thoroughly hand-picked produce from the city’s local markets under the guidance of its Dim Sum Head Chef Leung Wing Pan. The highly-recommended dumplings here include the Baked whole-dried South African abalone puff with wild mushrooms and Steamed minced cod fish and shrimp dumpling with soy sauce.
Given the popularity of dim sums, most people have savoured the dish at least once in their lives but if you want to try something different while enjoying the rush of flavours that you experience when biting on a piece of dim sum, then you should try the ones from Bino ‘N’ Booze. The hot pot restaurant offers two soup bases that have alcohol mixed in them – The Signature Red Wine Oxtail and Tomato Soup and The Pig Tripe and Chicken in Beer Soup. When combined with the carefully hand-rolled dumplings, the dumplings melt right in your mouth to give a unique yet comforting taste. The must-try here are the Abalone and Black Truffle Dumplings and the Drunken Chicken Dumplings.
If this happens to be your first time trying a dim sum or you simply liked to be spoiled with so many choices then your go-to restaurant for dim sums should be Fox Glove. Offering nearly 30 options varying from seafood and meat to vegetable dumplings, this speakeasy restaurant allows you to try different and as many dim sums as you like. The newest addition is the Sichuan Peppercorn Xiao Long Bao which is inspired by the Shainghanese dumplings sold at a highly-raved street stall in Shanghai.
Perfect for meat lovers and vegans, Mott 32’s newly-updated Dim Sum menu puts taste at the forefront. In addition to the restaurant’s already existing steamed dim sum platters, its executive chef Lee Man Sing has collaborated with the plant-based food company Plant Sifu to launch a set of plant-based dim sum dishes that are only available until June 30. As expected from this contemporary Chinese restaurant, every ingredient is carefully picked from different parts of the world thus giving a contemporary twist to the traditional Chinese dish.
Seafood lovers can always count on D.H.K. Seafood Restaurant to devour pescatarian dim sums. What makes their dim sum or any other dish stand out is their cooking style which is a very traditional Guangdong way of cooking. You should definitely try one of their newest creations Plant-based Pork Siu Mai, Plant-based Pork & Shrimp Dumpling Soup and Plant-based Pork & Shrimp Bean Curd Roll in Broth.
Grand Majestic Sichuan adds a fine-dining sensibility to Sichuan cuisine
Contrary to what most people would believe, Sichuan cuisine is not all about mouth-numbing spice – although it is famous for it. In fact, the majority of Sichuan dishes sit on a spectrum of spicy, sweet, sour, savoury, smoky and aromatic. And at Grand Majestic Sichuan, Head Chef Robert Wong delivers, alongside Sichuan cuisine-expert Fuchsia Dunlop, the dynamic combination of flavours native to his hometown Chengdu perfectly.
Dining room and bar area with Gucci wallpaper at the back
Not merely a Sichuan restaurant, it goes above and beyond expectations with plentiful attention to detail, from the food to the service and even the ambience. Striking red velvet upholstery, lush carpets, lavish interiors dressed in marble, silk and Gucci wallpaper, and a spacious terrace with a view of Central’s high rises, Grand Majestic Sichuan transports diners to Hong Kong of the ’60s, an era of luxurious nightclubs.
Even a trip to the washroom is made memorable with the unique experience of pouring a flute of Champagne and spraying on Chanel No.5. “We like to say that we offer good Sichuan cuisine with European service,” notes Wong.
From left: Bang Bang Ji, Liang Ban Wo Sun Si, and Deng Ying Niu Rou (Celtuce strips, shredded three-yellow chicken and wafer-thin beef
After an impressive tour of the restaurant – a precursor of its eclectic delights–we sit down to sample a selection of signatures, beginning with three cold dishes. Deng Ying Niu Rou is wafer-thin beef tossed with chilli oil and sesame seeds. Its delicate, crispy texture results from the finely sliced beef being dehydrated, steamed, then fried – an interesting twist to the chewier Bak Kwa jerky many people are familiar with.
From left: Bang Bang Ji, Liang Ban Wo Sun Si, and Deng Ying Niu Rou (Celtuce strips, shredded three-yellow chicken and wafer-thin beef
Next is the classic cold offering of Bang Bang Ji – poached and shredded “three-yellow” chicken tossed in spicy peppercorn oil and doused with mildly sweet, nutty sesame sauce. The tender meat of the distinctive local bird, beloved for the fatty layer under its skin, yields rich bursts of flavour that balance savouriness, subtle sweetness, as well as mouth-tingling sensations.
Celtuce Strips
Calming the palate after the heat of the opening dishes is Liang Ban Wo Sun Si, a plate of chilled celtuce strips lightly kissed by Sichuan peppercorn and chilli oil, then garnished with sesame seeds – it is nutty, aromatic and slightly tingly, but a refreshing change of pace from the richer profiles of the beef and chicken.
Wong’s knowledge and techniques shine through, in particular, in the mains. “We try to keep everything simple and classic, and we use the freshest and best ingredients so our dishes are healthier. For example, we use grapeseed oil, never lard, and no MSG. We prepare our own broths and preserve and marinate our own ingredients,” says the chef.“It’s been much tougher to get ingredients from Sichuan during the pandemic, so the way I see it is, if we can’t get it we’ll make it ourselves.
Chongqing La Zi Ji (Firecracker chicken)
Their “firecracker chicken”, Chongqing La Zi Ji, uses the local yellow chicken and a generous serving of “facing heaven” chillies. The chicken is served boneless yet its tender, juicy meat bursts in a complexity of salty, spicy and fragrant flavours. This subtle detail speaks volumes of the skill and technicalities that sets the restaurant apart from other Sichuan diners.
Suan Cai Yu (Fish stew with preserved vegetables)
However, it is Suan Cai Yu, a popular Sichuan fish stew, that surprised us the most. Absent of spicy and numbing essences, but rather bursting in mouth-watering and aromatic fragance, this sour soup delights with the slightest hint of sweetness is accompanied by a succulent, fatty fish. Traditionally, the recipe calls for golden pomfret, but instead Grand Majestic Sichuan uses line-caught grouper, caught locally by a fisherman who works closely with the restaurant, and the innovation improves texture, aroma and flavour. It comes with mustard greens that have been pickled in-house in a special marinade.
Ma Po Dou Fu (Mapo Tofu)
Saving the finest for last, Ma Po Dou Fu, may be the highlight of the meal. Bursting with a full body of flavour despite a more restrained use of peppercorn oil, the sauce’s rich umami hails from grass-fed beef chopped by hand and oil rendered from Ibérico ham. Simplistic in its nature, but robust with a unique savoury kick, this rendition of the popular tofu dish has been billed by some as “the best in town”, and with that, we concur.
Grand Majestic Sichuan. 3/F, Shop 301, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central. (852) 2151 1299. grandmajesticsichuan.com
Text & Photos: Roberliza Eugenio
Chef-owner of Table by Sandy Keung on conscious seasonal cuisine
Chef-owner of seasonal-based restaurant TABLE, Sandy Keung not only puts consciousness in her cuisine, but is also leading the way for a healthier, more sustainable way of eating.
Sandy Keung in a Cara cutout pleated crepe jumpsuit by Alice + Olivia, courtesy of THE OUTNET
Could you tell us about your background before opening TABLE by Sandy Keung?
I grew up in Hong Kong but moved to New York for school. I was a trained accountant and a hedge fund manager. I moved to Vietnam to do investment for the hedge fund before moving back here after three years. I became CFO for a listed company before leaving finance to open TABLE by Sandy Keung.
When did your passion for cooking begin?
When I was living in Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam, I had a large apartment with a gorgeous view and a beautiful kitchen. I would often entertain friends and colleagues and cook for them. I would get compliments for the dishes I prepared, and thought to myself, ‘perhaps this is something I could do as a profession’.
What made you decide to take the plunge?
I started to really enjoy cooking. So, I decided to test the waters. If things didn’t work out, I always had my finance background to fall back on. I volunteered to work in a French restaurant in Ho Chi Minh to see if it was really something I could adopt as a profession. In 2014, I left my career and CFO position and started Table by Sandy Keung.
What is the concept behind the restaurant?
When I started Table by Sandy Keung, I never had it in mind to define the cuisine by geographic location. I thought that would be restrictive – and it wasn’t reflective of my own upbringing and background. So, I thought, ‘why don’t I just focus on the ingredients instead’?
I decided to start an ingredient-based cuisine where we take ingredients that are in season and apply the best treatment and cooking method for them. I realise that this is quite a Hong Kong approach. After all, we are a melting pot of different things.
I think over the years people have gotten used to eating seasonal items from all over the world. To me, eating seasonally is also eating locally-sourced ingredients. I believe when you choose something that is in harmony with your environment, it contributes to your wellbeing – that is the true purpose of eating seasonally.
I guess as my culinary journey evolves, I’ve become more conscious about sustainability and going back to my roots – reflecting on what seasonality means, and what it means to eat seasonally. I explored traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) and the principles of man and nature in harmony. In TCM, we believe that besides eating certain things that will contribute to our general well-being, there are also certain parts of the body – internal organs – that match with that particular season. For example, in summer it’s actually best for us to nourish the heart, so we should eat something that is cooling to combat the heat and lower the blood pressure.
Sandy Keung in a Net Sustain one-sleeve cady maxi dress by ESSE Studios, courtesy of NET-A-PORTER
What does this perspective mean for Table?
I’m taking Table a step further. Instead of just ‘Ingredient-based Cuisine’, I now define it as ‘Conscious Ingredient-based Cuisine’. It’s more than just the ingredients, we are more conscious of every step of the process involved, from intention to environment to the people. I realised that it is difficult to ask people to order a lot of vegetables, especially when you go to a seafood restaurant like mine. So, what I have started doing is incorporating seasonal local vegetables that Hongkongers have grown up with and are familiar with, such as bitter melon, winter melon and wax gourd (which are cooling for the body during the summer season) and added them into our daily soup or as part of an amuse bouche, so diners don’t really have a choice. [laughs]
This is not to say that we shouldn’t eat meat or seafood, but we do need ingredients that balance and nourish the right part of our body and mind, which is my way of gently pushing my guests to have a healthier and more balanced meal. Also, these are ingredients that you probably won’t see in a western restaurant. I like to think that this makes Table by Sandy Keung’s cuisine uniquely Hong Kong and uniquely Sandy’s.
“When I started Table by Sandy Keung, I never had it in mind to define the cuisine by geographic location. I thought that would be restrictive – and not reflective of my own upbringing” background”
Table by Sandy Keung treats its shellfish via depuration. Why is this important?
Depuration is actually a popular process of using non-thermal techniques to purify seafood naturally. This basically provides the shellfish with a cleaner and more appropriate environment, with the right temperature, pH level and salinity. This way the shellfish can naturally filter their metabolic waste and accumulated pollutants – offering cleaner and safer seafood for eating.
Considering that the city imports over 90 percent of live seafood from Europe, North America and other places far and near via “dry” shipping, for the time it takes the shellfish to arrive into the city, it is essential, in my opinion, that we do depuration upon arrival. Otherwise, it’s like not having a shower or going to the bathroom for three days.
Unfortunately, it is a process that isn’t well known in Hong Kong yet. Although they are used in modern swimming pools, such as those in hotels, or in high-end recreational fish aquariums, they aren’t used for food safety, which comes as a surprise to me since it is very common in Europe for water and shellfish treatment to improve food safety.
Sandy Keung in a ruffled silk-organza blouse by ZIMMERMANN, courtesy of THE OUTNET; Babette organic cotton-blend twill wide-leg pants by Iris & Ink, courtesy of THE OUTNET
You also founded Good BBQ. Could you tell us more.
Good BBQ is a chain of siu mei restaurants (Hong Kong-style roast meat). I love siu mei and I would love to see this local favourite expand beyond our borders. We are actually opening a location in London in the near future which is very exciting, as I get to see this iconic Hong Kong dish reach other cities.
Do you have any advice for those planning to enter the F&B industry?
In any change you wish to make, ask yourself if this is something you can imagine yourself doing as a job. It’s one thing to enjoy doing something, it’s something entirely different when you have to do it for work. My advice is to try it out, before you decide.
Is there any particular memory that reminds you of your purpose as a chef?
There was one occasion during the pandemic when dining out was under strict restrictions. One of our regular customers had wanted to cheer up his elderly mother for not having been out for a long time. He had wanted to treat her to our signature crab rice on a Sunday, but because we were closed. So, he had asked our manager if he could pick up the dish the day before and be given instructions on how to reheat it instead. Instead, I told him to ask the guest, if he was truly serious about coming in on a Sunday, I would come in to cook the dish for him to pick up on the day. I feel joy and am grateful being able to be an instrument for a son to show love to his mother, or for people to share happiness through my food.
On a bad day, what is your go-to comfort food?
I like unwinding after a long day of service, especially after the Christmas rush, with some caviar. It’s like a little pat on the back for a hard day’s work.
What dish best represents Hong Kong?
I think siu mei dishes like roasted goose, roast pork and barbeque rice are iconic staples of Hong Kong and perfectly represents the city.
Thank you.
Interview by: Roberliza Eugenio; Photographer: Jack Law; Art Direction and Styling: Jhoshwa Ledesma; Videographer: Jackie Chan; Hair and Make up: Heti Tsang; Venue: Arclinea FSS and Officine Gullo Flagship Store @ESSERE
Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare
There’s an exciting new entry into the 2022 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants guide that has gained much buzz since its opening a year ago. Wing restaurant, helmed by Michelin-starred Chef Vicky Cheng of acclaimed French-Chinese restaurant VEA, is nestled on the 29th floor of The Wellington in Sheung Wan, just a floor below its acclaimed sister eatery VEA.
Michelin star Chef Vicky Cheng
Having been trained in French techniques, Wing is a step outside of Cheng’s comfort zone, prompted by his journey of rediscovering his Chinese roots. Here, the menu is described as seasonal dining. By sourcing only the freshest and seasonal ingredients, the Hong Kong-born chef offers his patrons a rotation of the best ingredients for each season of the year. “This is my take on Chinese cuisine”, Cheng tells Gafencu. “We do what I like to call ‘boundary-less Chinese cuisine’. By respecting centuries of traditions and flavour combinations, but at the same time adding our own element to the dishes, we are able to create flavours of our own, and ultimately a cuisine of our own”.
“We do ‘boundary-less Chinese cuisine’…adding our own element to the dishes to create flavours of our own”
Firefyle Squid with Yunnan Chili and Bull Kelp
Drunken South African Abalone
Without delay, we began with a line up of cold appetisers. The Firefly Squid with Yunnan Chili and Bull Kelp was a deliciously tender and creamy bite with a gentle hint of spice, courtesy of the generous Yunnan chili garnished atop, while the Drunken South African Abalone was a sweeter follow up to contrast. Perfectly marinated with two different types of Chinese wine, the balance of sweet and savoury was a delight.
French White Asparagus with Chicken Fat; Chili Shirako with Century Egg
To its side, was the French White Asparagus with Chicken Fat. Sprinkled with chicken skin crisps, this gave the dish a subtle yet noticeable dimension in texture and taste. Last in line from the appetisers was the Chili Shirako with Century Egg. Delighting with a custard-like texture and taste that paired perfectly well with the mild flavours of the soft-boiled century egg. The dish was brought together with a tantalising note thanks to the restaurant’s house-made Sichuan chilli sauce.
Steamed Japanese Pomfret with Preserved Vegetables
Serving as a brief interim while we waited in anticipation for the second course was the Shanlinsi Oolong tea. Subtle with a fruity aftertaste, our palates were refreshed as we steadied ourselves for the Steamed Japanese Pomfret with Preserved Vegetables. Complementing the fatty, natural sweetness of the meat was a liberal bed of house-preserved vegetables and fresh scallions – giving the fish a unique aroma.
Baby Pigeon with Cane Sugar
Next to arrive was the Baby Pigeon with Cane Sugar. Dry-aged for about three days, then glazed with sugar cane juice before finally smoked with dried sugar cane pulp, the result of this elaborate preparation is a decadently sweet and incredibly crispy skinned bird with juicy, tender meat that slid right off the bone.
Abalone Sauce Fish Maw with Morel Mushroom Rice
Not long after had we finished off the game on our plates did the next dish arrive, the Abalone Sauce Fish Maw with Morel Mushroom Rice. The chef used two-head fish maw for the dish, which, to put in perspective, is thicker and more chewy than typical fish maw. Rich umami flavours exude throughout each component of the dish, from the fish maw that was braised in house-made abalone sauce to the morel mushroom rice that was elevated by the hint of earthy notes. When put together in a single bite, a seamless balance of texture and flavours are married in perfect harmony.
Osmanthus Snow Gum with Coconut Sorbet
To end on a refreshing note, the dessert arrived in the form of an Osmanthus Snow Gum with Coconut Sorbet. We took our time savouring this sweet ending for as long as it lasted. The snow gum, infused with Osmanthus tea, resembled the unique texture of a bird’s nest, but left a satisfying swirl of floral notes on our palates. The coconut sorbet, on the other hand, added a creamy body to the dessert that was both sweet and refreshing. If there was anything we could have added, it would have been a second serving.
Yung Kee: A new look at the iconic Cantonese eatery
In a city where restaurants rise and fall according to the admittedly fickle tastes of its discerning diners, Yung Kee is a singular success story. Indeed, the Cantonese eatery is something of an institution, having recently celebrated its 80th anniversary. Despite being internationally renowned today, its roots, however, are humble to the extreme.
Newly renovated dining room at Yung Kee
Having begun as a dai pai dong in 1936, Yung Kee moved to a sturdier location in Wing Lok Street in 1942. Two years later, though, during Hong Kong’s occupation by the Japanese, the site was razed by US bombers and had to be rebuilt. Two decades on, Yung Kee finally found its forever home on Wellington Street, and to mark its landmark 80th year, the restaurant underwent significant renovations.
Yvonne Kam, Third-generation owner of Yung Kee
“With the new refurbishment, we’ve ensured that each floor provides a different type of atmosphere to suit diners’ different needs,” says third-generation owner Yvonne Kam. “The ground floor is more for light dining, while the first floor has a ’50s / ’60s teahouse vibe. At the top is our formal dining area, replete with a stunning Dragon Phoenix Hall. We’ve even interspersed various pieces of memorabilia and artworks from Yung Kee’s past, so it’s almost like eating within a majestic living-history museum – one that has evolved alongside the city’s rapid culinary development.”
Multiple nods to the restaurant’s legacy are indeed to be found, from the painstakingly restored handcrafted Italian tiles that were fitted on the first floor in 1964 and the original signage that now graces the contemporary bar area, to the beautifully maintained gold-plated, traditional dragon and phoenix statues and custom-made art punctuating the second-floor grand hall.
Yung Kee steamed shrimp and scallop dumpling
Amid this august environment, we kick off our own tasting with a duo of signature dim-sum dishes – Steamed Shrimp and Scallop Dumpling and Supreme Soup Pork Dumpling. The former encompasses delightfully delicate oceanic flavours, while the latter features a single oversized dumpling brimming with soup and a soft pork stuffing.
Yung Kee Roasted Pigeon Legs and Stir-fried Pigeon Fillet
Next to arrive is Roasted Pigeon Legs and Stir-fried Pigeon Fillet, an updated combination of two disparate dishes. Here, the plump bird’s legs have been deboned then sewn up, so not one iota of flavour or moisture can escape. Roasted to perfection, each mouthful combines succulent meat with crispy skin. The fillets, meanwhile, are beautifully tender, with the accompanying asparagus slivers and lily bulb petals adding a welcome textural element.
Yung Kee Crispy Toast with Mixed Shrimps and Lobster Tail
Another new addition to the menu then hoves into view – Crispy Toast with Mixed Shrimps and Lobster Tail. An elevated interpretation of a dim-sum favourite (shrimp toast), this particular iteration sees the base layer of bread covered with a decadent lobster tail, which is then sprinkled with sakura shrimp for a dash of added texture. Crunchy yet subtly flavoured, this is a guaranteed hit for any shellfish aficionado.
Yung Kee Signature Charcoal Roasted Goose
Rounding out our delicious tasting is a return to that Yung Kee classic – Signature Charcoal Roasted Goose. “The secret behind our iconic roast goose is our Chinese charcoal grill,” explains Kam. “We have the last remaining one in the CBD area, as the government no longer issues new licences for them. By slow-roasting the goose in it, the meat retains a succulent flavour while simultaneously being given a uniquely fragrant smokiness.”
That’s not all, though. The bird in question is no ordinary goose. It’s a purebred black-maned Chinese goose, carefully chosen for its juicy flesh, which is then bathed in a secret marinade that locks in extra flavour. The result is an explosion of fat, meat and saltiness with every bite – a powerfully addictive combination that keeps you coming back for more. Small wonder, then, that this dish, more than any other at Yung Kee, has kept eager epicureans in thrall across the decades.
Wonton Wants: A guide to the city’s best-loved wonton noodle soup restaurants
From pan-fried versions to steamed avatars, dumplings are one of the most iconic and beloved dishes of Chinese cuisine. The Cantonese wonton, though, is a rather more unique offering that can be found throughout the city. Be they stuffed with crunchy shrimps, pork or vegetables, these hearty morsels hold a special place in Hongkongers’ hearts as being the epitome of comfort food. While they can be found on practically every street corner, only a handful merit recognition for their homey flavours and original recipes. Below are a few wonton noodle soup restaurants that top this list.
Image: Ho Hung Kee
Ho Hung Kee
One of the longest-standing wonton noodle soup restaurants in Hong Kong (founded in 1946), it has earned many accolades and even nabbed a coveted Michelin star during its seventy years of operation. Though its portions are on the smaller side, their flavour-packed wontons filled with fresh crunchy shrimps pack a mighty punch, lovingly topped with al dente noodles in a lightly seasoned broth. Price: HK$39 per bowl Location: Causeway Bay
Image: Mak’s Noodle
Mak’s Noodle
A household name among local gourmands, this Central-set eatery is known to many as the grandfather of wonton noodle soup restaurants. Although first-timers may be deterred by the shockingly small servings, the establishment’s signature broth and delicious fish-and-shrimp wontons have seen it find favour across the board. Price: HK$45 per bowl Location: Central
Image: chee hong via flickr
Lau Sam Kee
Whether it is wonton noodles in soup or wonton lo mein (where the noodles and a dipping soup are served separately), this eatery cooks up both to perfection. Set in the heart of Kowloon’s street food Mecca of Sham Shui Po, its wontons are made with a deliciously savoury pork and shrimp filling. The highlight, however, is the accompanying noodles. Being one of the few remaining places that makes their noodles by hand using the traditional method of Jook-Sing (bamboo hitting), Lam Sau Kee’s signature bouncy egg noodle is definitely a unique cultural treat. Price: HK$34 per bowl Location: Sham Shui Po
Mak Man Kee
Across its half-century legacy, this most eminent of wonton noodle soup restaurants has risen from humble beginnings as a street food cart to become one of Kowloon’s crowning culinary gems. Located on Parkes Street, Mak Man Kee is known for flavour-packed broths punctuated with wontons that are filled with shrimp, pork and Jinhua ham (a dry-cured ham). Each petite-sized bowl comes brimming with egg noodles and generously-sized wonton. Price: HK$36 per bowl Location: Jordan
Image: city foodsters via flickr
Yuen Hing Long Noodle House The delicious wontons served at this old-timey shop not only imparts a delightful shot of nostalgia, but also aims to satiate your appetite with nary a dash of MSG to be found. Located on Queen’s Road West, the wonton noodles here are served with an MSG-free pork bone broth that imparts a hint of sweetness to proceedings. Tucked between a pharmacy and a narrow alleyway, it’s easy to miss if you don’t watch your step. Price: HK$28 per bowl Location: Shek Tong Tsui
Review: Chinese all-new noshery Nove serves up tradition with a twist
To find Nove, you have to be in the know. Hidden in a narrow alley in Central, without an English name on the shop front, this newly-opened noshery – perhaps deliberately – recreates the atmosphere of a secretly-tucked-away Chinese kitchen.
Nove’s interiors
The feeling only intensifies upon entering. It’s like being transported straight into Shanghai of yesteryears. With mosaic floors, Chinese lanterns and ink paintings all being an intrinsic part of the decor, every nook and corner promises an authentic Chinese gourmet experience.
Steamed xiao long bao with lobster bisque
And the menu doesn’t disappoint either. But the culinary team at Nove doesn’t just stop with recreating traditional dishes – indeed, executive chefs Wong Yiu Por and Poon Kwai Chung have some unique tricks up their sleeves. This sees such popular dishes as the xiao long bao undergoing a makeover with the addition of lobster bisque. The result is soft juicy dumplings rendered even more delicious by the mild seafood-flavoured broth.
Baked abalone and cheese tarts
Another dish that caught our fancy was the baked abalone and cheese tart. While Hongkongers love their egg tarts, this savoury take on the popular street food won our heart with its simplicity and skillful execution. While the cheese complements the abalone perfectly, it doesn’t overwhelm the seafood’s unique taste, creating a perfectly harmonious appetiser.
Sliced goose and marinated hard-boiled egg
Of the mains, the sliced goose and marinated hard-boiled egg is a Chiu Chow-style delicacy – a stellar example of Chef Poon Kwai Chung’s expertise in Chiu Chow-style marinated dishes. With the egg complementing the poultry, it’s the spicy, pungent sauce that ties the whole dish together and has you reaching out for seconds.
At Nove, the portions are quite right-sized, and the best part about that is you can order an assortment of items – from traditional pig trotters to experimental seafood and kimchi dumplings. One thing’s sure, though… whatever, you try at Nove, chances are you won’t be disappointed!
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
John Anthony serves contemporary Chinese cuisine at Lee Garden Three
Maximal Concepts, the restaurant group which already boasts such notable eateries as Mott 32 and Blue Butcher, recently added to its bevy of dining establishments with the all-new John Anthony, a modern Chinese restaurant nestled in a sprawling 7,000sq.ft locale in Causeway Bay’s Lee Garden Three.
With the combined talents of Mott 32 Group Executive Chef Lee Man-sing and John Anthony Executive Chef Saito Chau, the contemporary Chinese dinery puts an innovative spin on classic Middle Kingdom cuisine with the creative incorporation of influences from the historic Spice Route.
John Anthony Executive Chef Saito Chau
This sees more traditional Cantonese fare like handmade dim sum paired enticingly with more unusual offerings like the Sichauanese-inspired Northern Red Stained Spicy Lamb Rack with Homemade Chili Powder and Australian Wagyu Beef Fillet Char Siu – a dish particularly close to Chef Chau’s heart and to the restaurant’s DNA.
Tipple-loving epicureans won’t be left wanting either as the multi-faceted John Anthony also boasts an expansive selection of gin at the long bar. Taking place of pride here are several 12-litre gin tubes featuring homemade concoctions infused with botanicals found along the Spice Road.
See our exclusive interview with John Anthony Executive Chef Saito Chau below to find out what makes this contemporary Chinese restaurant stand out.
Disappearing Chinese dishes revived at Dragon Noodles Academy
Step inside Dragon Noodles Academy, a traditional Chinese eatery tucked away on one of the narrower lanes on Central, and you’ll find a slice of old Hong Kong from the 1970s coming alive before your eyes. With its retro Kung Fu-themed décor, the restaurant smoothly transports you to the past with inherent elements from Chinese culture like lion dance masks, hand-carved dragons, traditional weapons, etc.
A further wave of nostalgia awaits, however, as soon as you glance at the menu. On offer till 31 August is a specially curated culinary experience – A Tasting Journey in Nostalgic Guangzhou, a selection of disappearing dishes from a bygone era. Created by chefs Winson Yip and KC Mak, the menu evokes memories of home and grandma’s cooking, albeit through a healthier reinterpretation that uses less oil, less salt and no MSG.
So with our interest already piqued, we dug into the appetisers, Steamed Siu Mai Pork Dumplings with Quail Eggs. While the dumplings themselves were quite standard, the exquisite craft of adding the quail eggs on top set this dish apart. The next dish, the classic Cantonese Double-Boiled Whole Winter Melon with Lobster and Crab Meat in Soup was full of the goodness of lobster, crab meat and melon, and was ideal for summers. We loved the crunchiness of the seeds, the softness of the melon and the tenderness of the meat – so much so that we went for second helpings of the soup!
Suitably satisfied, we turned our attention to the main course – Baked Fish Intestines with Egg, Deep-Fried Dough Fritter and Dried Tangerine Peel. Fish intestines were something we hadn’t tried before and, frankly, were quite unsure about how it may pan out. But the dish that was put in front of us – a typical Hakka speciality of steamed fish intestines with eggs, ginger, garlic chives and dried mandarin peel – was unexpectedly well-balanced, with the eggs all but cancelling the bitterness of the fish intestines.
Next, we tried the Pan-Fried Lotus Root Paste Cakes which were a perfect balance of crunchy and soft, given an added dimension through the sweet chilli dip that accompanied it.
However, the most Instagrammable dishes of the evening were the desserts. Both the Flowering Tofu and the Flower in Jelly with Gum Tragacanth were delicately sweet, beautifully executed dishes that would please even those who don’t have a sweet tooth. The Flower in Jelly with Gum Tragacanth seemed to be a particular hit with the diners, given its smoky awesomeness, but those who have room for more should surely not miss the Flowering Tofu which is a hidden gem full of subtle gingery goodness.
With one foot in the past and the other in the present, Dragon Noodles Academy, indeed, seems to have mastered the fine art of nostalgic cuisine.
Dragon Noodles Academy (DNA)
Shop no. G04, G/F, Man Yee Arcade, Man Yee Building, 68 Des Voeux Road, Central
+8522561-6688 contact@dragon-noodles.com
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Fang Fang review: Traditional Chinese fare with modernist flair
Though Fang Fang is located at the heart of Hong Kong’s favourite party hotspot, Lan Kwai Fong, the restaurant is a far cry from the run-of-the-mill restobars that dot the streets of LKF by dozens. Offering the choicest of Chinese cuisine within plush interiors, complete with live music, Fang Fang mixes the best of fine-dining with upbeat party vibes.
As you step out of the elevator on the 8th floor of LKF Tower, the beautiful – though a tad dimly lit – interiors set the perfect mood for a luxurious and leisurely experience. The feeling is only heightened with a first glance at the menu. Helmed by Head Chef Kent Lee, former executive chef of Hakkasan, Fang Fang taps into China’s classic recipes and gives them a modern twist. The result is a sumptuous blend of Chinese modernity and tradition, while embracing influences from surrounding regions.
Posh Duck Salad
We were particularly impressed by the assorted Dim Sum Platter, which is part of their new dim sum menu that’s available throughout lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. The Soft Shell Crab with Five Spices is also a crowd favourite, and it’s easy to understand why, given its sheer ‘devil-may-care’ decadence. For the more health-conscious though, there’s the Crispy Duck Salad with pomelo, pine nuts, plum dressing and a generous dose of truffle oil. We could spend hours raving about this particular dish, but we’ll just let you judge for yourselves…
Jasmine Tea Smoked Ribs
Moving on, the mains that made a lasting impression were the Jasmine Tea Smoked Ribs and the Forest Honey Grill Chilean Seabass, both interesting reinventions of classic Chinese fares. Kudos to the chef for taking a risk and pulling it off!
Some of the other mains that we tried, such as Vegetarian Gailan and Spicy Fried Rice, were more akin to ‘no-frills-added’ comfort food.
Forest Honey Grill Chilean Seabass
Though generally not big dessert fans, we were tempted to try the Ginger Crème Brulee on the staff’s recommendation, and we are so glad we did! Just mildly sweet with a hint of refreshing ginger, it was a perfect culmination to a very satisfying meal. For warmer climes, however, we’d suggest choosing from the selection of ice creams and sorbets.
For those looking to indulge in a tipple or two, Fang Fang also boasts a well-stocked bar to match its hearty food menu. Do try their newly launched Ikebana Cocktails, specially curated by Bar Manager Gagan Gurung, who is known for experimenting with Oriental flavours. Judging from the packed bar on a typical Friday night, it’s safe to assume his experiments are a roaring success. Add to that the soulful live music by jazz singer Wendy Robin and you have a space that comes to life every night! Be sure to reserve a table.
