Gold Rush: With the precious metal surging to record highs, future investments look golden 

Gold has held a captivating appeal through the ages, from the pharaohs with their golden masks to the limited-edition gold smartphones of today. The precious metal is a symbol of wealth, prestige and power, and both nations and individuals crave it. Traditionally it has been seen as a hedge against inflation, and over the last year its desirability has been exceptional. 

China’s glittering prize

China is the largest producer of gold, followed by Australia, Russia, Canada and the US. The mainland topped the gold-mining charts with an output of 370 metric tons last year – from a worldwide total of about 3,000 metric tons. Its consistency in this regard is treasured, with the country unearthing over 300 metric tons annually for more than a decade. In the past two years, it has also overtaken India as the world’s biggest consumer of gold.

Gold reached a record high of US$2,450 (HK$19,132) per ounce on 20 May this year. According to many analysts, Chinese demand is one of the chief factors behind the recent price hikes. “China has been showing the biggest increase in demand for gold with a year-to-year increase of 68% in their purchases of physical gold in the first quarter of 2024,” says Joshua Rotbart, founder and Managing Partner of precious metals trading firm J. Rotbart & Co. 

Rotbart opines that the weak Chinese currency during the first two months of 2024 was a major factor, motivating locals to preserve their wealth in a so-called safe-haven asset. An added dimension to the situation in China is that both the property and equities markets have been underperforming and showing instability. Its central bank added a whopping 225 tonnes to its gold reserves last year, easily surpassing actions of its peers.  

Sam Kima, Senior Vice-President of bullion services provider First Gold, says profit-making options available to local investors have become very limited on the mainland, and that the Shanghai Gold Exchange benchmark price has been rising faster than international prices for the past couple of years, highlighting intense Chinese demand.

Jewellery bling

The Chinese middle class has perhaps taken reassurance from its central bank and is eyeing gold as a way of preserving fortunes in the absence of alternative overseas options, such as buying US dollars or US-denominated products. Many are turning to gold jewellery. The World Gold Council reported that sales of gold jewellery in China last year reached a record high of 282 billion yuan (US$39 billion).

Some analysts speculate that the increased demand for gold jewellery on the mainland is partly due to the rise of the guochao or ‘China chic’ trend, as a way of celebrating Chinese heritage and identity. The ancient goldwork techniques and skilled craftsmanship are appealing, as well as the long tradition of gold being a valuable commodity to hedge against currency devaluations and collapsing property prices.

This trend is having some interesting consequences in China, as the Gen Z turns to gold in increasing numbers. “Young consumers, disillusioned by non-performing promises for making a quick buck, are moving back to a traditional asset that has proved its value,” says Rotbart.

 “Jewellery investments have their own advantages such as using it as accessories or passing down wealth to the next generation, which is very common in the Chinese culture. However, gold jewellery comes with high fees charged by the makers and the retailers,” he adds, while pointing out the need to melt jewellery into gold bullion. 

Raising the bars

Owning physical bars and coins provide the advantage of pure 24-carat gold investments with minimal fees, whether buying or selling. “Physical bar and coin investment would definitely be recommended in order to preserve your wealth for the long term,” he notes.

Kima says many gold jewellery brands in China are adopting innovative marketing approaches to capture the attention of young consumers attracted by the traditional Chinese aesthetics and cultural elements of the jewellery. He also points out gold is hypoallergenic, does not tarnish, and retains its value over time, presenting promising appreciation compared to other jewellery. 

There have been some reports in China of jewellery scams, such as pieces containing large amounts of silver and rhenium. “Gold extracted by amalgamation or cyanidation contains a variety of impurities, including zinc, copper, silver and iron, and all of these metals are rising together on an acclivity trend,” says Kima of jewellery made with impure gold.

Economic stability

The bulk of the recent huge demand for gold came from purchases made by central banks, according to Kima, despite periods when the US dollar and Treasury yields were rising. “By holding gold, countries can instil confidence in their economic stability, especially during financial uncertainty,” he says.

“While the gold standard is no longer widely used, some countries still view gold reserves as a means to maintain currency stability. Gold is a tangible asset; by holding it in their reserves, countries can diversify their overall portfolio. This diversification helps mitigate the risks associated with fluctuations in the value of other assets.”

Alongside China, the world’s largest gold consumer, Kima says India and Turkey have also been players recording recent strong demand. “Traditionally, India is also a helping hand during the first few months of the year, as demand in the world’s second-largest consumer for the precious metal increases due to the wedding season,” he shares.

Global uncertainty

Rotbart attributes the “phenomenal” ascent in the price of gold to a culmination of circumstances, including higher levels of debt around the world due to increased expenses on security; geopolitical uncertainties, especially the Russia-Ukraine war, the Iran-Israel conflict, the war in Gaza, and the looming elections in the US; record net purchases by central banks around the world; and expectations of lower interest rates. “Gold performs better in a low-interest environment,” he notes.

Likewise, Dr Vineet Agarwal, Reader in Finance at Cranfield School of Management, cites several interlinked factors behind the recent rapid price upswing. He notes that sanctions on Russia saw several countries (led by China and Russia) attempting to switch bilateral trade to their own currencies from the US dollar, sparking increased demand. 

Agarwal believes the “hedge against inflation” argument for buying gold is an oft-repeated claim without much basis in fact. However, he foresees an increasingly important role for gold in global trade as certain countries try to move away from the US dollar for geopolitical and strategic reasons.  He says efforts by the BRIC countries – Brazil, Russia, India and China – to try to come up with an alternative currency “will lead to a move back towards something on the lines of the Bretton Woods system and an increasingly important role of gold in global trade”. 

Under the Bretton Woods Agreement of 1944, the convertibility of independent states’ currencies to US dollars was guaranteed within fixed parity rates, alongside the rate of convertibility of the dollar into gold bullion.

Go for gold

Rotbart echoes this point by stating that the top three gold-producing countries – China, Australia and Russia – are less dependent on the US dollar as they have trusted reserves in the form of gold during trade wars or geopolitical conflicts. He believes the demand for gold in terms of central bank purchases looks set to continue upwards despite record-high gold prices, reflecting the attractiveness of gold as a safe-haven asset. 

He also reveals funds are being diverted to buy “physical gold” as opposed to “paper gold” due to its desirability and lack of counterparty risk, and the fact it’s not a financial product.

Photos: 3D-GOLD Jewellery (HK) Ltd

Great Wine of China: Chinese producers are winning over the world with their vibrant pours

China has produced wine from grapes for centuries, and in recent years the vast country has become one of the world’s largest consumers of wine. The fruits of each winemaking region have their own distinct characteristics, and many local wineries have developed strong ties with overseas viticulturalists.

Master of Wine Fongyee Walker, co-founder of Dragon Phoenix Wine Consulting and a specialist wine educator, can attest to the fact that many regions in China are crafting great wine.

Walker singles out three notable regions producing wines of character: Shandong for their gentle quality shaped by a maritime climate; Shangri- La in northwest Yunnan for the magnificent scenery and the freshness and vibrancy of its wines; and Xinjiang because of the vivacity of the culture “and the wonderful food that goes so well with the rich wines from that desert sun”.

Elegant Shandong

Winemaking in Shandong centres around Yantai on the northwest coast of the peninsula. “Shandong produces lovely wine,” says Walker. “The granite soils and the sea breezes coming off the bay allow so much of its coastal region to produce elegant wines.”

As a white-wine lover – “though not necessarily typical wines” – she is particularly fond of the gentle Chardonnays emanating from there, while the elegant Cabernet Francs with hints of leafiness also appeal. She notes: “It’s all about elegance, a refreshingness brought by that maritime acidity.”

Yunnan fruit

The mountain vineyards in Shangri-La reach as high as 3,000 metres, creating huge diurnal variation and giving the wines vibrant acidity and a pureness to their fruit. “That diurnal swing, those cold nights with very sunny days high up in the mountains, bring refreshing but ripe flavours,” she says.

Shangri-La reds excite the palate: “They produce really gorgeous Cabernets with a depth of fruit and a really refreshing mouthfeel,” she notes, adding: “Their Pinot Noir is a potential great star.” And speaking of her favourite whites: “Their Chardonnays are different from the Shandong style, and they offer a vibrancy of pure orchard fruit.”

Xinjiang riches

As for Xinjiang, Walker believes the desert landscape and crystal-clear sunshine have a profound effect on the quality of the wine produced, noting there is a warmth and beautiful roundness and richness in the wines there. “It’s hot, but this means that the red wines are full of fruit, and they have this wonderful, healthy fruitiness to them with beautiful tannins,” she says.

When China-based Walker travels to Xinjiang, she looks forward to pouring these rich reds, particularly the Syrah-Merlot blend. “It is so full of fruit and wonderful with the roast lamb of the area.” She is also partial to an Italian Riesling-style wine infused with green tea, which she describes as “a unique and favourite wine of mine. It has an aroma of jasmine flowers exploding.”

Perfect pairing

When planning a visit to Ningxia in north-central China, another key wine-growing area, she thinks of their beautiful Marselan grapes and how well these wines go with roasted Tan Yang lamb. The local Tan species of lamb is, she opines, “one of the most delicious lambs of the world. What a perfect match!”

Grape achievements

Walker was on the distinguished panel of judges including three Masters of Wine and three Master Sommeliers at the inaugural Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards held in Macau last month. Significantly, the event gives valuable feedback to those who don’t win trophies. “It provides a roadmap for producers all across China with different styles of wine – how to go forward, how to improve and bring their wine to new levels of quality,” she says.

Winners revealed!

Following the rigorous judging process, Fei Tswei Marselan Reserve 2021 was honoured with the coveted Best Wine of China Trophy. Its exceptional quality also earned it the titles of Best Red Wine, Best Marselan and Best of Ningxia. Xige Estate N28 Chardonnay 2021 won two trophies, including Best White Wine and Best Value Wine, while Domaine Franco Chinois Petit Manseng 2018 received the Best Sweet Wine, Best Petit Manseng and Best of North China titles.

Chinese Wine Month

Wynn is set to host ‘Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Month’ promotion in May, a celebration of Chinese wine excellence with a symphony of global gastronomy. Throughout the month, guests can experience specially curated wine pairing tasting menus at Wynn’s prestigious dining venues, including Chef Tam’s Seasons, Lakeview Palace, SW Steakhouse and Mizumi at Wynn Palace as well as Golden Flower, Wing Lei, Lakeside Trattoria and Mizumi at Wynn Macau.

For a casual alternative, visitors can also participate in tasting flights featuring the prizewinning wines at Wynn’s various bars, including Palace Reserve Club, Cinnebar, Bar Cristal and Wing Lei Bar.

Sensational Ski: Head north for the fresh powder snow of China’s many premier winter resorts

The Beijing 2022 Winter Olympics placed China on the global stage as a major winter sports venue and underscored the ongoing success story that is China’s ski industry. From only about 20,000 visits to the ski slopes in 1996, numbers soared to 15 million by 2012, and last year’s sporting fiesta was a further fillip to this burgeoning industry. Plentiful powder snow now attracts visitors from around the world to mountains that historically have played a rich part in Chinese cultural identity.

There are more than 20 large ski resorts across the country in areas as diverse as Jilin, Heilongjiang, Yunnan and Hubei provinces. These resorts obviously gained a huge boost from Beijing being chosen to host the Winter Olympics as many locals suddenly wanted to learn to ski or partake in some way in the run-up to the Games. The slopes across China have been built on the back of successive rounds of investment and this money is crucial to their continuing maintenance. Recent funding has focused on upping the luxury level of hotels and amenities, as well as opening more runs and facilities for beginners.

Northern Exposure

Two of the largest ski resorts in China’s far north are Beidahu Ski Resort in Jilin and Heilongjiang’s Yabuli Ski Resort, the latter being situated about 200 kilometres southeast of the famous winter ice city of Harbin, home of the annual Harbin International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival from December to February.

Beidahu Ski Resort, which played host to the 2007 Asian Winter Games, has established itself as one of the country’s premier ski resorts. Located in a tiny village some 50 kilometres south of Jilin City, the resort has runs over two mountains plus the adjoining valley and is served by an excellent network of gondolas with limited queuing required. It is famous for its steep slopes and boasts the highest vertical drop of any resort in China. The runs from the top of the right-hand mountain would be considered intimidating to most beginners, but recent investment has created slopes suitable for less advanced skiers and the resort now caters to all levels of skiing proficiency.

Most lodging at Beidahu is at the base of the mountain. The original 200-room hotel created for the Asian Games is an option, although five- star accommodation with superior eating and dining facilities is now available. The nearby village also hosts a clutch of decent restaurants.

Covering an area of 22 square kilometres, Yabuli Ski Resort has the distinction of being China’s first and largest destination ski resort and the training area for the Chinese Olympic ski team. After an influx of investment since 2009, the resort has grown considerably and now spans two mountains with a good division of advanced, intermediate and beginner runs as well as an international-standard competitive alpine skiing area. High-quality lodges have been built to cater to more discerning visitors who want somewhere to relax and recuperate in style after a gruelling but exhilarating day spent skiing or snowboarding on the slopes.

Many seasoned skiers believe Yabuli offers the best all-around facilities and ski experience in China. The alpine ski runs here are the longest in Asia, with nine downhill runs, seven cross-country ski trails, six ski lifts and synchronised platforms, and a 90-metre- high alpine jump platform among the attractions. Access to the slopes is facilitated by three chair lifts, three cable-car lifts and a towing cableway. Snow is usually guaranteed as there are multiple snow-making machines to ensure good skiing throughout the season.

Harbin highlights

A visit to Harbin can be combined with a wide choice of skiing destinations. Scenic Jihua Changshou Mountain Ski Resort is located about 45 kilometres from the city in Binxi National Forest Park. This basin setting surrounded by beautiful mountains provides shelter from the severe winter winds. One run here extends over 2.3 kilometres, while another is 100 metres wide, and the vast complex can accommodate 5,000 skiers at any one time. It is considered ideal for cross-country skiers.

Moon Bay (Yueliang Wan) Ski Resort in Harbin’s Songbei district is easily reached from the city centre. It has a comprehensive range of accommodation, entertainment and leisure facilities. Nearby attractions include the Siberian Tiger Park to the north, home to magnificent Siberian tigers in near wild surroundings, and Sun Island Park to the east, the location of the beautiful winter snow sculptures. The Ice and Snow World here features illuminated full-sized buildings made from blocks of ice that stand among the finest examples of ice art in the world.

The skiing at the Window of Eurasia Ski Resort in Nangang district, located within a theme park housing the world’s classic architectural landscape in miniature, is tailored to beginners. Beidahuang Agricultural Park Ski Resort in Xiangfang district is noted for its abundance of seasonal activities aside from skiing, such as horse riding, hunting and dog sledding. The picturesque setting at Longzhu Erlongshan Ski Resort, situated about 60 kilometres from downtown Harbin in the Erlong Mountain Scenic Zone, elevates its attractions including slopes suitable for all abilities. A good choice for the next generation of Olympic champions is the centrally located Mingdu Ski Resort in Harbin as it has a ski run specifically for children.

The city’s International Golf Club Ski Resort is convenient for transportation, hotels and shopping malls. The complex comprises ski training, jumping and snowmobiling slopes, a fishing lake and golf driving range, and ice and snow and entertainment areas. The country’s first ski race venue was established at Wujimi Ski Resort in 1964, 100 kilometres from Harbin. The location – Shangzhi – has earned the title of “ski town of China” as a result. Yuquan Weihushan Forest Park Ski Resort is only half that distance from Harbin and has skiing, skating and ice hockey among other winter activities.

Eastern promise

Recent slopes to be developed include one on the border with North Korea at Changbaishan, about 15 kilometres from the local airport. Wanda Changbaishan International Resort has a fantastic luxury alpine village offering top-of-the-range hotels, restaurants and private condominiums, and it operates a guest pick-up service from the train station or airport.

Skiing at the Beijing Olympics (apart from the downhill competition) took place around the village of Taizicheng in northwest Hubei province, where a cluster of resorts welcomes enthusiastic amateurs. These include Wanlong Ski Resort, a premier ski destination known for its powder snow, the family- friendly Thaiwoo Ski Resort, and Genting Resort Secret Garden, which has won awards for the quality of its skiing.

Best Games Ever: While covering themselves in glory, Hong Kong’s medal heroes also spread sporting joy throughout society

The FISU World University Games in Chengdu, China, were ones to remember for Hong Kong and its athletes. Astonishingly, their medal haul – 12 including 4 golds – matched Hong Kong’s combined total at all previous games. While friendships were forged and great individual and team battles played out, this summer’s edition of the biennial world student games will undoubtedly leave a lasting sporting legacy for the city. There were moments of supreme personal achievement and performances representing the pinnacle of sporting excellence.

Most impressive was the achievement of Hong Kong fencing superstar Edgar Cheung Ka-long, who notched up double gold, in the Men’s Individual Foil and the Team Foil. The 26-year-old, who is studying for a bachelor’s degree in Physical Education and Recreation Management at Hong Kong Baptist University (HKBU), is no stranger to the winner’s podium, having bagged the gold medal at the 2021 Tokyo Olympics in the same individual event.

Professor Alexander Wai, President and Vice- Chancellor of HKBU, expressed immense pride in his student’s unwavering perseverance and determination, further stating: “His exceptional performance has solidified his position as one of the world’s top fencers, and we are all expecting him to reach new heights in the field.” Cheung’s achievement in winning two gold medals at a single World University Games was last matched by Hong Kong swimmer Siobhan Haughey at the 2017 edition in Taipei.

Win win for Hong Kong

In total, Hong Kong won four gold, one silver and seven bronze medals in Chengdu. Dr. Hon Sze-Sze of the HKBU’s Department of Sport, Physical Education & Health believes the success of Hong Kong athletes at the 31st University Games will enhance the perception of sports and boost participation in a city where traditionally it has ranked low in the public consciousness. “It is important for people to see that Hong Kong athletes could compete in high-level sports competitions and find success there, proving that it is not just a wild dream for young kids wanting to reach the Olympics one day,” she says.

Hon is convinced successful role models are much needed for aspiring young athletes and children alike. Regarding its value for sporting exposure, she places the games organised by the International University Sports Federation (FISU) just second to the Olympics in terms of the number of participants and the level of sporting excellence. “In terms of spectatorship, it is undoubtedly very successful in drawing a good audience,” she stresses, adding: “The World University Games is seen as a platform where young student-athletes can learn from peers of diverse culture and background; it is not merely a gathering to demonstrate athletic prowess.”

Beyond sporting excellence

The stated aim of HKBU’s Physical Education and Recreation Management degree is to provide students with sufficient depth and breadth of knowledge, skills and practical experience in the discipline. While the course is not focused on training elite athletes in technical sports skills per se, it would certainly support student-athletes in pursuing their sporting goals while studying. “In addition, under the ethos of ‘whole person education’ of HKBU, our students will receive a strong liberal arts education to prepare them for a variety of careers,” says Hon.

Other notable student-athletes studying at HKBU have competed in major games. Recently retired top track cyclist Sarah Lee Wai-sze, who won two bronze medals at separate Olympics, graduated from its Creative and Professional Writing programme. The university also had other athletes at the World University Games who performed well, such as wushu star Lau Chi-lung, who won a silver medal in the Men’s nanquan. His achievement represents triumph over adversity as he suffered a serious knee injury a couple of years previously. Hon says Lau’s example will inspire others to overcome setbacks through hard work and self-discipline.

University support

She points out that HKBU and other local universities offer different categories of scholarships to encourage current and retiring athletes to engage in academic programs which help to expand their future career prospects. Cheung, for instance, was one of the scholarship awardees under HKBU’s Talented Athletes Direct Admission Scheme last year.

According to HKBU’s website, the scheme provides funding for eligible applicants who have sport talent and achieved outstanding results in sport at admission. Funding is renewable for the normal duration of the course, subject to the student’s academic results, good progress in sport training and performance, as well as contributions to the Sport Leadership Programme.

The Hong Kong University of Science and Technology (HKUST) also provided medal winners at the Games and encourages students with exceptional athletic abilities to enrol through various admission programmes. A spokesperson indicated that as part of this commitment, HKUST has enhanced its Student Athletes Admissions Scheme to offer special admissions consideration based on sport achievements, as well as flexible study arrangements, scholarships, living allowances, academic accommodation and other relevant assistance, allowing student-athletes to pursue their sporting and academic goals simultaneously.

Citywide, the University Grants Committee of Hong Kong, which embraces eight universities, paves the way for sports stars to gain tertiary education. It maintains the Student-Athlete Learning Support and Admission Scheme to promote sport achievement-based university admissions for local athletes.

Power of sport

HKUST says it recognises the wider personal and developmental benefits of sports and its ability to foster a sense of belonging, dedication and enjoyment among students. To this end, there are more than 30 sports clubs at the university and over 50 HKUST sports teams participating in intercollegiate, local and international competitions. All new undergraduates are required to take the sports skill class within its Behavioral Foundations of University Education: Habits, Mindsets and Wellness course in their first year of study to learn how to maintain a well- balanced and healthy lifestyle.

The Hong Kong Jockey Club’s Athlete Incentive Awards Scheme rewarded those athletes who achieved success at the World University Games. Monetary bonuses provide extra incentives for top- level performance, according to Hon, who points out that many athletes devote a great deal of time to training and competitions. “However, I do not think many athletes are aiming to earn big money through their sports endeavours,” she says. “Most of them do it because of the pure love of the sport itself.”

Hon also notes many are driven by a continual desire to improve their performance levels. Hong Kong’s world-class fencer is a classic example of a person driven to succeed. Soon after his latest gold medal triumph, Cheung told the assembled media: “I don’t think about anything. My mind is just ‘be a warrior, just fight’.”

The Asian Games in Hangzhou, which begin on 23 September, is the next opportunity for the city’s sports warriors to shine.

On Old Town Time: The ultimate Lijiang travel guide

There’s something mystical about Lijiang. More specifically, there’s something mystical about the Old Town of this famed Yunnan city. Perhaps it’s the meandering waterways, or the maze of cobbled streets lined with old-fashioned wooden houses. Perhaps it’s the plethora of ethnic-minority folk in traditional costumes. Whatever the case may be, Lijiang’s colourful sights and undeniably nostalgic aura have enchanted and enticed travellers for centuries, and latterly seen it immortalised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

The_black_dragon_pool Lijiang, China Gafencu Travel March 2022

The political, commercial and cultural hub of the Naxi people since the seventh century AD, Lijiang subsequently came under the auspices of the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties of China. Yet, for many centuries, it was ruled by a single family, the Mu Clan. Thanks to a strategic position along the ancient Tea Horse Road – a network of caravan paths that traversed Sichuan, Yunnan, Burma and the Indian subcontinent – it was a crossroads for multiple ethnicities, and today remains a cultural melting pot that offers fascinating insights into China’s diverse indigenous populations.

Beyond that, however, Lijiang is blessed with splendid natural wonders, be it the soaring Jade Dragon Snow Peak, the impressive Tiger Leaping Gorge canyon or the tranquil Black Dragon Pool. Onward, then, to our round-up of the most visit-worthy spots in this compelling Chinese city.

Heritage Trail

Lijiang, China old town Gafencu Travel March 2022
Quaint, charming and romantically nostalgic, the Old Town of Lijiang in modern-day Guzheng district is understandably the city’s biggest tourist attraction. Given the confluence of picturesque waterways, 354 criss-crossing bridges and traditional Ming dynasty (1368-1644 AD) architecture, strolling along its cobblestone streets is akin to being transported back to much simpler times.

A UNESCO heritage location since 1997, it also affords a revealing window into the vibrant cultures of the Naxi, Bai and Tibetan minorities. Visitors can sample local delicacies such as chickpea bean jelly and baba (stuffed flat bread that can be either sweet or salty), and – if they’re lucky – catch a spontaneous circle dance led by women wearing colourful costumes. Trying on and perhaps purchasing these ornate garments is also a highlight of a stay here.

Yunnan Clan

Temple in the Jade Spring Park in Lijiang, China
Temple in the Jade Spring Park in Lijiang, China.

Located within the Old Town, Mufu Palace was once the residence of the Mu family, the hereditary chieftains who ruled the region until 1723. Though little is known about the clan’s origins, they governed the town well before Lijiang was incorporated into the newly risen Ming dynasty in the 14th century. In recognition of their legitimacy under the new regime, the Hongwu Emperor gave its then-leader, A-chia A-te, the Chinese name ‘Mu De’, with ‘Mu’ henceforth becoming the family’s official surname.

In its heyday, the Mufu Palace spanned some 16 acres. Sadly, military battles during the Qing dynasty would see much of its structure razed to the ground. Thankfully, the government initiated a complete rebuilding at the end of the 20th century, and today the complex not only offers an intimate look at both the official and personal quarters of the Mu clan, but also showcases an interesting blend of the Yuan, Ming and Qing architectural styles.

On Dragon Pond

Jade_Dragon_Snow_Mountain_Lijiang, China Gafencu Travel March 2022
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang China

A short walk north of the Old Town lies the resplendent Black Dragon Pool, set against the stunning backdrop of the snow-capped Jade Dragon Snow Mountain – the region’s tallest mountain at 5,596m. Built in 1737, it is officially listed in the government’s ‘Collection of Famous Pools in China’ and is part of the scenic Jade Spring Park. Perhaps one of the town’s most photogenic places, the pond abuts several beauty spots, including the Longshen Temple – also constructed in 1737 – the Moon-Embracing Pavilion and the Forest of Stone Steles. The latter is a museum housing some 3,000 steles – or standing stone slabs – with the most historically significant revealing the evolution of Naxi culture across the ages from the Tang dynasty (618 – 907 AD) to the 20th century.

Leaping Tiger

Lijiang, China Tiger Leaping Gorge Gafencu Travel March 2022 (2)
Tiger Leaping Gorge in Yunnan, China,

For those eager to explore beyond Lijiang, a trip to the Tiger Leaping Gorge may be just the ticket. Situated 60km from the town proper, the awe-inspiring gorge stretches some 15km along the Jinsha River, which wends its way between the towering Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and the neighbouring 5,396m Haba Snow Mountain. It is the deepest river canyon in China, with a staggering drop of 3,900m from mountaintop to river bed. 

Avid hikers may choose to walk its entire length, but most tourists are drawn to one spot in particular – the narrowest point of the gorge with a boulder perched in the middle. Why, you may ask? Because this is the spot where, according to legend, a tiger being tracked by a hunter found itself trapped between the gushing waters and certain death. In a bid to escape, the feline took a literal leap of faith and reached the other side of the 25m-wide expanse by jumping to and from the aforementioned boulder, thus finding freedom and giving the gorge its name.

Ladies of the Lake

Lijiang, China lugu lake Gafencu Travel March 2022
Lugu Lake, Liajing, China

Explorers willing to undertake the four-hour drive to Lugu Lake (on the border of Yunnan and Sichuan) will find their patience rewarded. Known as the ‘pearl of the plateau’, the lake – the highest in Yunnan and the third deepest in China – boasts crystal-clear waters surrounded by verdant mountains. Comprising four peninsulas and six islands, its shores are home to many ethnic minorities, including the Norzu, Yi, Pumi, Tibetan and those close relatives of the Naxi, the matriarchal Mosuo people.

There’s much to see and do here, so opting for at least an overnight stay is highly recommended. Through tour operators in Lijiang, you can arrange such experiences as canoeing through the pristine water, cycling along its perimeter, visiting the various villages that dot the lake’s shores, and partaking in a thrilling bonfire party where the locals don traditional garb and sing and dance into the night. If you’re feeling particularly daring, you can even sample some homegrown spirits, join in the festivities and soak up some of the indigenous Mosuo charm.

 

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

Reclaiming Hong Kong: A history of the changing coastline

“Reclamation is unavoidable”, Hong Kong Chief Executive Carrie Lam told journalists on a land supply discussion in 2019. “In the long term, many developing cities have to adopt this choice.”

Like many places in Asia, Hong Kong has been defined by reclamation – edging further into the sea has turned 733km of jagged shoreline into a global metropolis housing 7.4 million people. About 6% of the city is built on reclaimed land, and while that sounds modest, it translates to 7,000 hectares of land, or half the size of Lantau island. Today, one in every three Hong Kong citizen lives on reclaimed land.

In land reclamation, everybody wins – the space-starved locals, the housing crunch – well, except the environment, marine life and the fishermen who depend on it. Land reclamation has completely transformed Hong Kong’s iconic coastline, with changes so drastic the older generation can now barely recognise the city from their youth. If that has piqued your interest, let’s time-travel back to the sleepy fishing village Hong Kong once was, but carry a life jacket – chances are that the land you’re standing on now didn’t exist back then…

Built to the Hilt

Almost as soon as the British arrived in 1841, they began to push the shoreline further into the sea until it reached current-day Des Voeux Road. Queen’s Road was the coastal edge leading towards Wan Chai, then known as Praya East. Hennessey Road was the land’s periphery. Gazing across the Victoria Harbour was a completely different experience – the chunk of sea was twice its size.

When the iconic ‘ding ding’ was built 118 years ago, it marked the coast of Hong Kong Island. Up until the 70s, the now bustling towns of Shatin, Tuen Mun, Ma On Shan and Tung Chung were peaceful, quiet hills. Tai Po and Tseung Kwan O were also yet to be carved from sea and swamp.

Also Read: Hong Kong iconic buildings designed by international designers

Made from Scratch

The first real attempt of land reclamation occurred in December 1851 after a massive fire wiped out the Sheung Wan district. Clearing the rubble would’ve costed the British government an enormous budget, instead they shifted debris into the sea, extending the shoreline by 50 feet. An ambitious project for the era, it finished in 1859 and resulted in Queen’s Road Central and Bonham Strand we know today.

Over the next century, a series of rigorous reclamation projects made way for two airports, first at Kai Tak and then the 1998 world-class upgrade at Chek Lap Kok. Nearly 250 million cubic metres of raw materials were rummaged to fill up 1,248 hectares of land in less than three years. During the late ’90s, legislators also signed off on creating 340 hectares of reclaimed land to redesign the Kowloon waterfront, carving out space for big-ticket projects like the West Kowloon Cultural District and the Express Rail Link. Just as this was taking shape, there were proposals to fill in the whole of Kowloon Bay.

Money into the Sea

City of the Sea Hong Kong's Changing Coastline gafencu_central before and after
Victoria Harbour before and after

In Hong Kong, the ground under your feet is never quite as firm as it seems and with so much concrete being poured into the sea, a looming threat was that one day the entire Victoria Harbour might completely disappear. With the gap between Central and Tsim Sha Tsui less than a kilometre wide, and already resembling a river rather than a sea channel, activist Winston Chu and legislator Christine Loh teamed up to push through the Protection of the Harbour Ordinance in 1997. Upheld in the Court of Final Appeal in 2003, the legislation prohibited any further reclamation of Victoria Harbour “unless there is an overriding public need”.

Also Read: Vibrant City: Hong Kong’s growing art scene

“In Hong Kong, the ground under your feet is never quite as firm as it seems… a looming threat was that one day the entire Victoria Harbour might disappear”

City of the Sea Hong Kong's Changing Coastline gafencu_check lap kok zhunghai bridge china
Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macau bridge construction

In one of the most remarkable feats of modern engineering, the world’s longest sea crossing, the 55km Hong Kong-Zhuhai-Macau Bridge, was constructed to provide a critical link between the three key Chinese cities. Built with 400,000 tonnes of steel, it is the biggest international landmark of reclamation – spanning 22.9km over the sea and 6.7km underwater.

Opened to public in 2018, the bridge came at a cost, and not just its price tag of US$26 billion. No less than a million tonnes of concrete were dumped into the sea, which shook the habitat of the endangered pink dolphin. Disturbing images of dolphins washed up on shore emerged as their population fell by 60-percent.

Turning sea into viable land is a high-risk operation. Reports are widely circulating about Dubai’s manmade archipelago, Palm Jumeirah, sinking into the sea. Reclaimed land becomes a huge risk during an earthquake. Persistent shaking can initiate a process called soil liquefaction, where waterlogged sediment that was once solid begins to liquefy. The 1906 San Francisco earthquake is an alarming case in point.

Yet, the need for humans to encroach beyond their natural shores remains. The housing crisis in Hong Kong has deepened; it is estimated that over the next 30 years the city will need an additional 9,000 hectares of land to support its growing population. It’s a precarious balancing act, and no-one knows when and how this land grab will end. A few decades from now, will we be able to recognise the Hong Kong of our youth?

Also Read: Hong Kong’s star architect Betty Ng on shaking up the design world…

(Text: Nikita Mishra)

 

Gafencu wishes you a Happy Chinese New Year!

Gafencu chinese new year tiger 2022

 

Roar into the Year of the Tiger with health, wealth and prosperity. Gong Xi Fa Cai from the Gafencu family to yours… ?

Karst Country: Guilin, China’s stunning ode to Mother Nature

The forest of sweet osmanthus trees.” This is the literal meaning behind the name of Guilin, the second-largest city in the southeastern Chinese province of Guangxi. And, if you could visit the area during the opening weeks of October, you would be greeted with a charming metropolis awash in pretty, flowering trees.

Even without this annual autumnal event, however, the city’s inherent charms, iconic jagged-peak karst mountains, verdant rice fields and meandering river landscapes have long held intrepid travellers under its thrall. This is perhaps unsurprising given the more laid-back, convivial atmosphere found here as compared to other major Chinese cities, in spite of being home to some 4.7 million residents.

guilin china travel gafencu -5

Interestingly, Guilin was the first metropolis to develop a tourism industry after the founding of the People’s Republic of China in 1949, and the intervening decades have seen its stunning geography attain almost mythical status. Children’s textbooks across the country proclaimed that ‘Guilin’s landscape is the best under heaven’, and the poetic mantra of ‘By water, by mountains, most lovely Guilin’ only added to its innate allure.

But the city’s roots stretch far back; it was established by Emperor Qin Shi Huang (of Xian Terracotta Warrior fame) during the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC). Thanks to its proximity to the Li River and its location in a fertile agricultural valley, it remained a key centre of trade and administration through the centuries.

guilin china travel gafencu -3

Fast forward to the late 1900s, when modernisation and strong economic growth saw Guilin adopt all the hallmarks of a developed Chinese city, albeit with a more sedate atmosphere due to its stunning natural beauty. In spite of a sprawling urban landscape and a population of more than 1.1 million, Guilin’s natural endowments still amaze.
Thanks to this dichotomy, its most popular sites can be split into two categories. The first encompasses the many retail, dining and leisure hotspots found within its acreage. The second, unsurprisingly, reflects its jaw-dropping geographic beauty, including the surrounding majestic karst peaks. As an interesting aside, Star Wars fans may recognise these mountains as the setting for Kashyyyk, the Wookie home world in Revenge of the Sith.

guilin china travel gafencu-10

Getting to Guilin was a breeze in pre-Covid times, thanks to the country’s super-efficient, high-speed railway system – the city is less than three and a half hours by bullet train from Hong Kong. More than 60 million people descended upon the metropolis in the first six months of 2019 alone, representing a 20 percent year-on-year increase. So, what exactly is there to see and do in Guilin? Read on to discover our top picks of the city’s many marvellous sights.

guilin china travel gafencu-9

Li River Cruises
Cruising between Guilin and the nearby resort town of Yangshuo along the picturesque Li River is a must for any visitor. Not only does it afford the best vistas of the craggy karst towers – whose imaginative names include Green Lotus Hill, Schoolboy Hill and Snail Hill – it also transports sightseers back to simpler times.
Pass grazing water buffalo, fishermen floating atop traditional bamboo rafts, farmers working rice fields and a plethora of charming villages along the 83km (52-mile) trip.
Tour guides offer a narration of regional fables and romantic tales as you sail downstream, and some cruises even proffer local delicacies such as Sanhua wine. First wetting whistles sometime in the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279) or even earlier, this popular, historic tipple is distilled using rice and the pure waters of the Li.

guilin china travel gafencu-8

Reed Flute Cave
Stretching beneath the southern shoulder of Guangming Hill, some five kilometres from Guilin, is Reed Flute Cave. Named for the reeds that cluster at its mouth – used to fashion traditional flutes and pipes – this 240m-deep, 500m-long cavern is home to dramatic underground karst formations: stalactites, stalagmites, stone pillars, curtains and the like. A popular tourist destination since the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD), its modern incarnation has been fitted with walkways and coloured lights that bequeath the cave with an almost mystical appeal.

guilin china travel gafencu-6

Tea Time
Every location in China boasts its own prized local tea leaves, and Guilin is no different, offering such varietals as monk fruit tea, osmanthus flower tea, Li River silver needle white tea and Longji tea. The latter is grown along the scenic Longji Rice Terraces, home to another tourist attraction in its own right – the Huangluo Red Yao Village. Home to a branch of the Yao ethnic tribe, it holds the Guinness World Record for the number of inhabitants sporting startlingly long hair – some women boast manes measuring more than two metres in length.

Back to tea and the Guilin Tea Research Institute, located just to the northeast of the city, draws a crowd thirsting for knowledge of their daily drink. Spread across plantations of some 100 acres, the site is home to a staggering 250 varietals and produces 42 tonnes of tea leaves annually. Here, connoisseurs not only learn the differences between the various prized shrubs, but also how tea is picked, processed and brewed.

guilin china travel gafencu-11

Sun and Moon Pagodas
While Guilin is famed first and foremost for the spectacular beauty of its environs, the city itself is not lacking in memorable sights. Take, for instance, the Sun and Moon Pagodas, two Buddhist pavilions that rise from the waters of Lake Shanhu. Perhaps Guilin’s most instantly recognisable man-made landmark, the former is the world’s tallest bronze pagoda, rising up to 41m, while the marble monolith of the Moon Tower tops out at 35m.

Originally erected during the Tang Dynasty, the pagodas were carefully reconstructed in 2001 using historical records and are connected by an underwater tunnel – giving visitors a unique view of the lake. By night, they are illuminated by a kaleidoscope of lights that form unique geometric patterns, punctuating the exteriors and interiors in sharp relief. Unsurprisingly, this is one of the city’s most photogenic sights, surely second only to those unforgettable karsts.

Botanic Bests: 3 botanical gardens in Asia to visit this summer

It can be difficult to stop and smell the roses in the midst of Hong Kong’s bustling streets and busy work hours – thankfully the airport is just a hop, skip and an express train away – leaving us but a few hours from some of Asia’s most breathtaking botanical gardens. Helping you to destress and enjoy the beauty of nature., from the east of Thailand, the heart of Singapore and the south of China here are our favourite botanical gardens in Asia.

Nong Nooch Tropical Botanical Garden

https://www.instagram.com/p/BNaRGIKAMUs/

Declared one of the most beautiful places in the world, the Nong Nooch Tropical Botanical Garden is located just short of 166km south-east of Bangkok and is spread out amongst 2.4 km2 of land. Known for its rich supply of Cycad the garden serves as an important conservation site for endangered and ancient plant groups. Travellers can also spend their visit to the garden with activities such as swimming, dining and world-famous Thai massages.

Singapore Botanical Gardens

https://www.instagram.com/p/BxGe_BaARqz/

Just a touch north of the equator one may find the 160-year-old Singapore Botanic Gardens. As one of the only two cities in the world to have a tropical rainforest within its city limits, Singapore’s botanical garden is perfect for anyone trying to juggle an itinerary of shopping and nature. Also home to a children’s garden, this may be the ideal place to snap some family travel photos.

Xishuangbanna Botanical Garden

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bew8rvFledQ/

Right before reaching the border of neighbouring country Laos is the Xishuangbanna Botanical Garden in southern China. Here botanists can enjoy over 13,000 species of tropical plants, and learn about the innovative practices and studies being done by biologists and nature conversationalists, leaving you with a nose full of sweet scents and noggin full of botany knowledge.

Northern Steps: Discover northern Asia’s hiking trails

While we may be able to avoid the snowy touch of winter here in Hong Kong, our northern-nation neighbors are not so lucky, but with Spring but already sprung now is the perfect time to hop a plane and pack your hiking boots for a trip northward. Indeed, with a boundless amount of hiking trails in Northern Asia, it can be difficult to narrow down which ones should top our to-do lists in a world never before so friendly for travel. Fortunately, we’ve had the time to climb a mountain or two for you and report back with our top results.

hiking trails in Northern Asia

Zhangjiajie National Forest Park

China

Now just a quick train ride of five or so hours, thanks to the high-speed train from West-Kowloon station, Zhangjiajie National Forest Park appears to be right out of a lucid dream. However, the national park is indeed a sure thing with a beauty arguably unmatched, so much so that it was featured in the James Cameron blockbuster Avatar (2010). The unique geological formations are plentiful, with rushing rivers and trails for days. You won’t want to exclude Zhangjiajie from your bucket list, but be sure to go during off season as the sudden fame of the park has propelled visitors into the millions.

hiking trails in Northern Asia

The Imperial Route to Kumano

Japan

A cherished park in Japan for over 1,000 years, the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage route is now a registered UNESCO world heritage site and for good reason. Enjoy a stroll down the same trails that once were taken by retired emperors and aristocrats, offering routes for both short walks and multi-day treks. To give your feet a deserved break, treat yourself to one of the many traditional accommodations of the area and take a dip into the hot springs.

hiking trails in Northern Asia

Odaesan National Park

South Korea

For those eager to explore South Korea’s North-Eastern region, you best start with Odaesan Nation Park found some 144 kilometers east from the nation’s capital of Seoul. As the place to be for anyone looking to be at one with nature, Odaesan is chock-full of well-marked trails and even child-friendly. Enjoy the calming sounds of the river, and make sure to stop into the Sangwonsa Temple before calling it a day.  

hiking trails in Northern Asia
Photo: Bailey Atkinson

Taroko National Park

Taiwan

Bearing its name from the local Truku aboriginal tribe, Taroko National Park is not only one of the most beautiful sights in Taiwan, but in the world. For those searching for a truly marveling view which has been scantily touched by man, will be delighted to learn that Taroko is sacredly protected by Taiwan’s environmental protection movement. Sure to be a splendid way to immerse yourself into nature, the park is home to several hiking trails, a wide range of wildlife many of which are unique to the region and relaxed county of Hualien just minutes away.

Text: Bailey Atkinson