Pink Layer: The allure of rose gold is its timeless elegance for modern tastes
In the realm of jewellery, few trends have captivated the hearts of fashion-forward individuals quite like rose gold. With its warm and romantic hue, it has become a symbol of modern elegance and sophistication. Whether adorning rings, bracelets or necklaces, this exquisite metal has a timeless allure that effortlessly combines tradition and contemporary style.
Also known as pink gold or red gold, this colour of jewellery has a rich history dating back to the early 19th century. Initially popularized in Russia, the captivating alloy gained widespread recognition during the Art Nouveau period. Combining the lustrous beauty of gold with a touch of copper, rose gold exhibits a delicate blush hue that sets it apart from other precious metals. Its unique colour imparts a warmth and femininity that adds a distinctive charm to any piece of jewellery.
As trends come and go, rose gold remains a steadfast symbol of sophistication and modern style, ensuring its place as a cherished treasure for generations to come.
MIKIMOTO ring
MIKIMOTO necklace
MIKIMOTO earrings
Chaumet necklace
Cartier ring
Cartier necklace
Cartier earrings
Chaumet ring
Chaumet ring
Buccellati bangle
Buccellati earrings
Buccellati ring
Chaumet cuff
Buccellati bracelet
Diamond Precision: Time is more precious when prestigious watchmakers turn to stones
For extra-special elegance and sparkle, watches embellished with diamonds raise their appeal that notch higher. Their allure is such that these fine mechanical works of art represent some of the most desired – and visually stimulating – timepieces available to collectors.
The heart of watchmaking, Switzerland, is replete with Haute Horlogerie manufacturers including Audemars Piguet, which recently unveiled two limited-edition 39 Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra-Thin models entirely set with gems. The 18-carat white-gold version has an 8.1-mm-thick case set with 138 brilliant-cut diamonds – about 2.6 carats – and glare-proofed sapphire crystal front and back. Adding to its lustre, the bracelet features 968 brilliant-cut diamonds and the dial is set with 422 brilliant-cut diamonds (for a grand total of 1,528 brilliant-cut diamonds and 8.3 carats) along with white-gold applied hour-markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating.
The 18-carat yellow-gold model is similarly carpeted with gems across the case, bezel, dial and bracelet – though these are yellow sapphires forming 10.41 carats.
Cartier delighted with a number of exquisite high- jewellery watches at Watches and Wonders 2023. The iconic Cartier Jewelled Tank watch remains true to its design code with its distinctive rectangular dial and parallel brancards. Whilst retaining that undeniable Tank identity, the bejewelled models are elevated by a flexible bracelet of mobile cylinders in onyx, chrysoprase or coral with articulated links to offer greater comfort, and a face flanked on all sides by diamonds of varying sizes. These new Tank watches pay homage to the colour palette of Jeanne Toussant with their coloured stones – coral, chrysoprase, amethysts and diamonds – and interplay of colour contrasts. The amethysts, coral, and chrysoprases, rose-gold dial of the Jewelled Tank watch, large model, quartz movement is set with 272 brilliant-cut diamonds and features polished rose steel sword-shaped hands.
For the new Baignoire Allongée, Cartier has built on the original design by creating a case composed of two parts combined by means of a micro-welding tool to incorporate two colour codes – yellow gold and white gold. It features a diamond-lit case that contrasts with a dial divided into different sections of varying sizes; the white and yellow gold areas are distinguished by a hand-carved sunray motif. The case is set with 212 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 2.81 carats.
The Baignoire continues to evolve and new Jewelled Baignoire editions showcase lines of diamonds that ring a snow-set dial and then extend the length of the bracelet to enhance the timepiece’s slim curves.
Presenting a discreet diamond face, Patek Philippe’s Ref: 4997/200R Calatrava in rose gold sets 76 internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds around the bezel. An ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 240 movement with a 22-carat gold mini-rotor powers the timepiece, which is housed in a 35 mm- diameter rose-gold case with a sapphire crystal caseback. Of note is its colour scheme: an eye- catching purple lacquered dial with an embossed pattern and rose-gold dauphine hands harmonises perfectly with a purple calfskin strap with a satinated finish and rose-gold prong buckle.
Richard Mille’s iconic RM 07-01 collection of automatic watches aimed at women is joined by new Intergalactic models combining the brand’s signature Carbon TPT with diamonds. The possibly unique combination of Carbon TPT – ultra-lightweight but strong with a warm velvety texture – and diamonds undoubtedly gives these models extra sparkle and highlights the fine attributes of each. Such is the strength of this high-performance material that settings for the stones as well as some snazzy red- gold prongs are machined with a diamond-bit milling tool. Diamonds are particularly prominent on the RM 07-01 Starry Night, worn with a Carbon TPT bracelet, and Bright Night models.
The new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 by Rolex welcomes dials made of decorative stone in shimmering tones that evoke the Mediterranean coast. Green aventurine, carnelian and turquoise are paired with watches in 18-carat Everose, yellow and white gold respectively. Each of these three models features a diamond-set dial, diamond-set bezel and President bracelet with a concealed folding clasp. This bracelet, composed of carefully selected 18-carat gold, is a brand signature dating back to the launch of the line in 1956. A total of 52 brilliant- cut diamonds are affixed to the bezel in a precisely aligned, hand-carved setting.
Unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023, Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Self-Winding Jewellery novelty glitters with diamonds, boasting a total encrustation of 769 round-cut stones, of which 420 embellish the dial. This sleek 18-carat white-gold watch comes with a sapphire crystal caseback and a shiny dark-blue alligator leather strap.
Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection 2023 embraces a plethora of watches exotically and colourfully adorned with diamonds. These Haute Joaillerie masterpieces include Ref. 104429-1001, which shimmers with pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, and the dazzling Ref. 104672-1001 with 28.3 carats of white diamonds and 21.65 carats of emeralds. Ref. 134154-5001’s pretty satin strap is distinguished by a diamond-set buckle.
Chaumet has numerous models adorned with diamonds including the Souveraine and Maharani secret watches worn with black alligator-leather straps. The former dazzles with an 18-carat white gold case and hinges set with 111 brilliant-cut diamonds, and a secret cover resplendent in 155 brilliant-cut, pear-shaped and rose-cut diamonds.
Marble Marquetry by Harry Winston, on the other hand, is a spectacular bracelet watch showcasing 56 blue sapphires set among a blaze of white light comprising a grand total of 208 brilliant- cut, baguette-cut and pear-cut diamonds.
Linear Silvers
Jewellery is always an investment worth making and now more than ever, there has been an influx in sales. We’re familiar with the dazzle of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. As of late, other labels too are catching our eye.
On the runways, jewellery frequently plays a supporting role as a lovely decoration or a subtle accent that you only see when you zoom in.
But jewellery may also reveal a lot about a person’s personality and sense of style, whether it be basic or maximalist, daring or conservative.
It provides insight into a person’s priorities and interests, whether they be family and craft as demonstrated by antique artifacts and hand-made trinkets, or nature with crystals and sustainable materials.
Elsewhere, fashion’s artistic inclinations came through in astonishing statement hoops, wire-like sculptures, and extra-long fringe earrings, elevating the body to a walking canvas.
(Text: Joseff Musa)
Wild Appeal: Enticing animal-themed jewellery
Humans have long had an affinity with the animal kingdom. The elements of nature and the symbolic motifs of our world’s magnificent beasts and critters have long been adopted in glyphs, folklore and art throughout the ages.
The world of haute joaillerie is also no stranger to mother nature’s wild side. Fostering bold, whimsical and one-of-a-kind designs to wear and behold, these decorative feral figures are worn as more than just an embellishment to charm onlookers – they are adornments that symbolise one’s spirit and personality.
Among the myriad of animal-inspired jewellery that has slinked out of the jungle, craftsmanship remains at the centre of these intricate jewellery designs. Take for example Cartier’s iconic Panthère Collection and Chopard’s dynamic Red Carpet Collection, creations that combine nature and fine art.
In this photo:
Panthere de cartier ring
Fred Ombre Feline bracelet
Harry Winston Black Necked Crane brooch
Buccellati Animalier Eagle brooch
Buccellati Animalier Rabbit brooch
Boucheron Fuzzy The Leopard Cat ring
Chaumet Les Ciels de Chaumet brooch
Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Ibex brooch
Chopard Red Carpet Collection ring
(Text: Roberliza Eugenio)
Neck’s Best Thing: Stunning décolleté dazzlers for this season’s soirées
There’s no stronger way to make a statement than to adorn your neck with a stunning, sparkling necklace. Whether it’s a thick choker-style design like Bulgari’s Mediterranean Queen necklace, open-worked creations like Van Cleef & Arpels’ Trésor Astral number or dangling dazzlers like Chanel’s Allure Céleste necklace, there are attention-grabbing bejewelled bijouterie for every special occasion.
To ensure your statement necklace does all the talking, opting for the right neckline is key. Strapless, off-the-shoulder or v-neck gowns or tops are a must when it comes to showing off your chosen accessory to perfection. Avoid clashing with strong patterns or detailing. Rather, monochromatic ensembles can pair perfectly with a strong necklace, provided that it is form-fitting and one colour throughout. However you choose to match your stunning piece of jewellery, with these gorgeous creations, all eyes are sure to be on you.
The sensual dual-appeal of transformable jewellery
Since the early days of the last century, transformable jewellery has been the staple of many of the world’s foremost luxury brands. This has seen such luminaries as Cartier, Chaumet and Van Cleef & Arpels create some of the most technically complex items in their long histories.
While popularised in the 20th century, such items first appeared almost 100 years ago, at a time when such inventive jewellery was strictly the province of royalty. With many weighty items worn solely on specific occasions, it fell to a number of regally-approved jewellers to tweak several royal favourites, allowing them to be worn across a variety of different engagements.
This saw items created with mix-and-match reassembly as a fundamental part of the design. It was a conceit that was soon to enter the mainstream. With the aid of clips, clasps and brackets, today’s jewellery-adept buyers can easily transform a large item into several complementary smaller ones, frequently cross-matching them with other styles or marques.
Given their facility for a chameleon-esque shift from mood to mood, occasion to occasion and role to role, it’s not difficult to see why the contemporary woman has such an affinity with these fluid adornments. After all, what better symbol could there be for her own multi-faceted engagement with the demands of 21st-century life?
Men’s jewellery is back in style – Top trends here!
The men’s jewellery renaissance is gaining momentum. The creative sartorial pursuits of fashion sensations like Harry Styles, Timothée Chalamet (Cartier’s new friend), Joe Jonas (Chopard’s bud) are to be thanked but back home, all credit goes to the champions of Mirror boy band for fueling the rage in Hong Kong circles.
From the past few seasons, we’re seeing boys in bling on fashion runways but the Spring 2022 collection of luxury houses, from Prada, Gucci, Versace to Ferrari and others, were all gleaming with gems… Below is our edit of the most fashionable men’s jewellery trends of the year. Notice the bling and the ring are getting voluminous in size.
In the photo: Fred Force 10 Collection; Bulgari B.Zero1 ring and Cartier bracelet; Tiffany & Co. T True ring and Maker’s narrow chain necklace; Gucci yellow-gold bracelet and ring with interlocking G
Adding stylish sartorial details to the typically minimalist gold ring and necklace, fine jewellery houses such as Fred, Chautmet, Gucci and Tiffany & Co. these classy collections elegant lines and a rich characteristic to accentuate the hands and wrists.
In the photo: Dior chain necklace; Givenchy chain necklace and lock bracelet; David Yurman chain bracelet
For a flashy number, chain necklaces take on a pared back and more sophisticated appeal than its longer, oscillating iterations. Whether you’re putting together a minimalist look or a modish ensemble, chains offer the perfect accent to any outfit.
In the photo: Vintage Cartier brooch and pin; Etro brooch; Maison Margiela brooch
Extravagant brooches and pins are making a fierce comeback. Fashioned on the red carpet by the likes of Timothée Chalamet and Regé-Jean Page, among many other A-listers are owning their softer sides and turning these traditionally feminine accessories into a unique statement piece for any black tie event.
In the photo: Pearl necklace by Éliou; Afternoon at the Ritz Pearl Story-ring by JLG
The preferred jewel of kings and pop-stars alike, are back in swag for men to don on any occasion. If a chain of pearls, de rigour for men in the 16th and 17th century feels a tad extra, the contemporary male can go the Harry Styles way – wearing minimalist, finest quality solitaire pearls for a subdued layer of style.
These natural wonders are often worn by the highest in royalty and if you’re looking for a place to start shopping – Mirabel Rosar’s sustainable and ethical jewellery outlet, Arao, curates modern yet timeless, gender fluid pieces. Her latest Paradox collection introduces two awe-inspiring lines – Sinag, a stunning single Keishi pearl in a 14k gold strand, and –Sikat, a classic string of pearls are a good place to start if you’re looking to make a statement.
In the photo: John Hardy black jade ring and beaded bracelets; Northern Sky rings by JLG; Messika titanium ring and bracelet; Harry Winston cuff-links and pendant necklace
Luxury jewellers the world over are pushing out sartorial creations that oozes style, character and the essence of joie de vivre. The Northern Sky Story-ring in elongated ice blue spinel by JLG and John Hardy’s dual black jade in sterling silver ring and beaded bracelets among other standouts by Messika and Harry Winston are case in point.
Rose Hip: The lasting allure of rose gold jewellery
With spring subsiding into full on-summer sun, it’s the perfect time to review this season’s chicest hue – rose gold. This most alluring of alloys never fails to grant your skin the subtlest of blushes, ensuring you of a sun-kissed halo glow wherever you go. While, today, this unique pink shade is all the rage in haute joaillerie circles, it actually originally rose to fame some two centuries ago, largely on account of the influence Peter Carl Fabergé, that most renowned of Russian jewellers.
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Image: Messika Paris Released Sun necklace; Chaumet Josephine Collection ring; Piaget Wings of Light ring; Suzanne Kalan Audrey ring; Selim Mouzannar Mina necklace; Daniela Villegas Chameleon ring; De Beers Enchanted Lotus ring
This innovative craftsman was the among the first to incorporate rose gold, at the time a somewhat novel material, into his designs, most notably in the shape of his iconic Fabergé eggs. So famous did these accessories become that the material initially came to fame as ‘Russian Gold’, before wider international use saw the current more general term adopted
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Image: Cartier Juste un Clou bracelet; Buccellati Aubade cocktail earrings; Ileana Makri Grass Seed ring; FRED ring; Repossi Antifer ring; Pomellato Fantine ring; Versace Trésor de la Mer choker
The actual colour of the material can vary from an orange-tinted yellow to a deep red depending on the ratio of yellow gold to copper, with an increased proportion of the latter bestowing more of a scarlet tinge to the alloy, Malleable to the extreme, it serves as the perfect counterpoint to a plethora of precious gemstones, as perfectly evidenced by both Piaget’s multi-hued Wings of Light ring and Versace’s ocean-inspired Trésor de la Mer necklace.
Miss Time: The wonder that is the world of women’s watches…
Once, not too long ago, the world of haute horology was dominated solely by masculine designs, with their ‘lesser’ female counterparts at best an afterthought. With the rise of womankind across the workforce – and indeed, in every other aspect of contemporary life – leading watch manufactures have risen to meet growing demand for ever more complex femme-focused timepieces. Of the latest such models on offer, seven in particular deserve special mention.
Vacheron Constantin’s Égérie Self-Winding
The first of these comes in the form of Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8918, the latest iteration of a timepiece created in celebration of Napoleon’s younger sister, Caroline Murat. Knowing her to be a long-time admirer of the brand and a haute horological enthusiast, founder Abraham-Louis Breguet crafted the original, with its distinctive oval dial, very much in her honour. Burnished with a mother-of-pearl dial, its scarlet-hued appeal stems from its oversized Arabic numeral hour markers, ruby pusher and red alligator leather straps. Adding an extra element of allure are the 117 brilliant-cut diamonds that adorn its bezel, with the entire timepiece powered by a self-winding calibre 537/3 movement, clearly visible through its wholly transparent sapphire crystal caseback.
Breguet’s Reine de Naples 8918
Another red-dominant watch has comes courtesy of Vacheron Constantin, with its Égérie Self-Winding model similarly fitted with a diamond-studded bezel and red leather straps. In this instance, however, this particular haute horology master has opted to craft the case and hour markers in a lush pink gold, creating quite a contrasting effect. Adding to its appeal, an unusual off-centre subdial – also encircled by glistening diamonds – between 1 o’clock and 2 o’clock serves as the date indicator. The Égérie is also available with black straps and in a stainless steel-white gold incarnation.
Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual models For a flexible yet chic everyday option, meanwhile, you could do far worse than check out famed watch manufacture Rolex’s new line of Oyster Perpetual creations. Available in either a 41mm or a more subtle 36mm edition, both come adorned with dials in a veritable array of vivid colours, ranging from black and green to far brighter coral, turquoise blue and candy pink models. All come with the latest Calibre 3230 movement – which was just unveiled last year – as standard, and are rounded out with the brand’s iconic Oyster bracelet.
Piaget’s Altiplano Tourbillon Limited Edition
Next on our list is a more outré interpretation of the truly femme-focused timepiece – the Joséphine Aigrette from luxury brand Chaumet. With no buckle or clasp to be seen, instead it comes enticingly equipped with an assortment of leather or satin bracelet straps, additions that elegantly grace any wrist. The dial proper, meanwhile, has been crafted in a unique tear-drop shape and imbued with a striking minimalist appeal, with its sole adornments consisting of miniature hour and minute hands, as well, of course, as the brand’s distinguished logo.
Chaumet’s Joséphine Aigrette
Serving up another stunning creation – albeit one with a starry twist – is haute couture label Hermès’ newly unveiled Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs. Inevitably bringing to mind thoughts of a twinkling night sky, its pale mother-of-pearl dial has been sprinkled with 87 blue sapphires and 68 white diamonds, an adornment that extends to the bezel. Underneath the hood, meanwhile, beats a calibre H1837 self-winding movement, powering a date indicator at 6 o’clock and a beautiful moon phase indicator at the top half of its fascia.
Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Spider
Similarly embodying an off-centre motif is Piaget’s Altiplano Tourbillon Limited Edition, which marks the first time the maison has offered this grand complication in a smaller 38mm diameter lady-friendly version. A past master at crafting super slim timepieces, Piaget has clearly not skimped on precision engineering this time around either. Sitting pretty on its sunray-engraved mother-of-pearl dial is an ultra-thin flying tourbillon at 2 o’clock, which is mirrored by an hour-and-minute counter that together form a lucky figure ‘8’ and infinity symbol. Limited to a release of just 88 pieces, a diamond-studded bezel completes its elegant appeal.
Hermès’ Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs
For those in search of a true statement piece, our final recommendation – the Excalibur Spider by Roger Dubuis – is truly a must. Crafted in a dazzling collision of high-octane racing lines-meets-haute horology, this avant-garde gold and white creation truly exemplifies cutting-edge watchmaking for women. With a dial punctuated by a star-shaped motif, the jewel in its crown is undeniably its flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock, a feature that has elegantly displayed via the clever incorporation of a delightful open-worked aesthetic. Deftly balancing beautiful form with precision-engineered function, it’s sure to appeal to any watch-loving fashionista.
Cuff Love: Gifts for the wrists…
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Images: Cartier Juste un Clou bracelet; Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti Bone cuffs
Few jewellery designs can hope to match the longevity of the cuff bracelet. Indeed, these open C-shaped creations first came to prominence some 7,000 years back, a time when they were worn by both male and female members of ancient Incan, Mayan, Roman and Egyptian royalty. Crafted from a variety of metals and set with precious gemstones, these accessories served as symbols of their undeniably lofty status.
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Images: Gucci bracelet; FRED Collier bracelet; Chopard Precious Lace bracelet; Chaumet Perspectives de Chaumet yellow gold cuff; Jewelry by Marsha cuff; Diamond Scene wide diamond cuff.
In the intervening millennia since those long-ago days, cuff bracelets – those designed to adorn the wrist with nary a clasp or fastening in sight – remain a constant of the haute joaillerie world. Now largely favoured by the fairer sex, they can be worn on one hand as a solo piece or simultaneously on two in a style akin to the amulets of old.
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Imaes: Fortunoff diamond and sapphire cuff; Takahiromiyashita Thesoloist silver single bone shaped cuff; Buccellati Ortensia cuff; Bahdos two-tone diamond cuff bracelet; Page Sargisson hand-carved bracelet; Nicole Rose Fine Jewelry cuff bracelet
Available in a myriad of hues and sizes, while being flexible to the extreme, the more minimalist designs – notably Cartier’s Juste un Clou creation or Chopard’s Precious Lace bracelet – can easily be worn on an everyday basis. When dressing up for special occasions, though, a more ostentatious look be guaranteed through the deployment of larger statement pieces, such as Fortunoff’s dazzling sapphire-and-diamond number or Buccellati’s Ortensia cuff.