Unique luxury timepieces were displayed in Hong Kong before heading to the Only Watch Charity Auction. Elizabeth Doerr, co-founder of Quill & Pad, dissects eight of the best ones.
Only Watch has become a much anticipated fixture of the high watchmaking scene. Taking place every two years, 2017 plays host to the seventh edition since Luc Pettavino called this auction to life in support of the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy (AMM), which battles the rare Duchenne strain of the disease. Pettavino’s son, Paul, who died from the condition last year at the age of 21, inspired the former to take up the charitable cause.
Collectors will find rarities here that can be had nowhere else and, better yet, all proceeds go toward research for this neuromuscular disease. Over the course of six auctions in 12 years, Pettavino has raised more than HK$235 million for the cause. For brands big and small alike, the publicity that comes along with the world tour preceding the auction makes it worth every cent to donate a specially-made, one-off watch.
Immediately following the world tour exhibiting the pieces, which hits Hong Kong 23-24 October, the auction will take place on 11 November in Geneva under the patronage of Prince Albert II of Monaco. Here are eight highlights from the auction suiting a cross-section of tastes – each watch unique in its own right.
Patek Philippe’s Reference 5208T-010 is an obvious investor’s choice. With its chronograph, instantaneous perpetual calendar and minute repeater, it’s an extremely collectable watch that’s likely to increase in value over the years – especially as it has a titanium case, a metal rarely used at Patek Philippe.
With a high estimate of more than HK$8 million, this is the auction’s top lot, and it comes with a complimentary visit to the workshops plus a private lunch with Patek Philippe president Thierry Stern.
If you’re looking for artistic merit, the titanium-encased Armin Strom Manual Hunt Slonem Edition for Only Watch is a perfect fusion of art and mechanical excellence. New York artist Hunt Slonem – best known for his Neo-Expressionist practice – has decorated the watch front with references to his critically-acclaimed series of rabbit paintings using a transfer process.
In addition to this watch, the winning bidder will receive a hand-signed original artwork from the artist entitled Rex – a 46cm by 31cm oil painting created using metal pigmented paint. High estimates surpass HK$150,600.
The minimalist, however, would be drawn to H. Moser & Cie’s Venturer Concept Only Watch – the ideal acquisition for lovers of simple yet striking pieces (high estimate: HK$240,200).
The finely finished, manually wound movement features a funky red balance bridge and an unusual red fumé dial – subtle references to the flag of Monaco, the birthplace of this auction and the home of AMM.
Offering a taste of the rare and unique is Fabergé’s Visionnaire Chronograph, presented in a sporty black and yellow outfit called “If life gives you lemons” (DLC-treated titanium).
Expected to sell for up to HK$383,000, this is a chronograph like no other. It’s able to provide both time and chronograph measurements using only hands that extend from the centre of the dial thanks to an innovative automatic movement by Agenhor.
Sure to put a smile on your face, the Slim d’Hermès L’Heure Impatiente Only Watch Edition (high estimate: HK$448,200) incorporates the whimsy of a novel complication in the “impatient” countdown hour, but does so in masculine grey titanium. The latter aspect is surprising, considering that the French powerhouse rarely utilises the high-tech metal to house its timepieces.
The Laurent Ferrier x Urwerk Arpal One LF-UR1 (high estimate: HK$570,450) offers an opportunity to own a unique watch borne out of a collaboration between two brands with styles on opposite ends of the spectrum. This timepiece doubles the fun with its wandering hours, sand-blasted satellites and exclusive polished alloy called ARPAL+ (specifically developed for this unique watch), making it a visceral feast for the senses.
For lovers of rare semi-precious stones, Jaquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Off-Centered Cuprite could be just the ticket with its minimalist dial crafted in ultra-rare cuprite, an oxide mineral with a vibrant red hue that gives away its origin as a minor ore of copper.
It is combined with red gold hands and subdial outlines matching the precious metal case for an overall graceful and unique appearance. In contrast, the watch’s high-tech mechanical movement with silicon balance spring can be viewed from the back. Its high estimate comes in at HK$330,600.
Our last timepiece is a treat for fashionistas everywhere: the Chanel J12-XS (high estimate: HK$366,700). Crafted in white gold, black ceramic and onyx with baguette-cut diamonds and embroidered calfskin, it is effortlessly chic. As the cherry on top, the winning bidder will be granted passage to Chanel’s ready-to-wear fashion show in March 2018.
Haven’t found your dream watch yet? Discover all 50 timepieces at www.onlywatch.com. Each and every piece was either specifically made for this auction, or is a one-off version of an iconic model.
Text: Elizabeth Doerr, co-founder of Quill & Pad
The Only Watch Charity Auction will be held on Saturday, 11 November at 2:30pm (Geneva time).
