Cuvée Cachet : Pop open the most exclusive Champagnes for the ultimate farewell to 2025

As the festive season unfolds, collectors and connoisseurs alike reach for the rarest cuvées: aged vintages, Grand Cru expressions and single-vineyard marvels that elevate celebration into ceremony. Encapsulating terroir, craftsmanship and patience, these seven standout Champagnes define the pinnacle of luxury.

Dom Pérignon Rosé 2008

A masterclass in balance and boldness, the 2008 vintage is revered for a cool growing season that preserved acidity while allowing slow phenolic development. The result? A rosé that’s both vibrant and profound.

Grapes: Pinot Noir after brief maceration, blended with Grand Cru Chardonnay

Bubbles: Delicate yet energetic, forming a creamy mousse

Aromas: Wild strawberry, violet, cocoa, toasted brioche

Perfect pairing: Duck breast and truffle risotto – or sip in silence as fireworks light the sky

Krug Clos du Mesnil 2006

This Blanc de Blancs is the Champagne region’s answer to a single-malt Scotch – pure, precise and profoundly expressive. The 2006 vintage yielded grapes with ripe fruit and firm acidity, and after nearly two decades of ageing, the wine is a rich tapestry of aromas with a distinct chalky minerality.

Grapes: Chardonnay grown in chalk-rich soils within Krug’s walled vineyard in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

Bubbles: Ultra-fine, slow-rising pearls

Aromas: Lemon meringue, dried fruit, candied ginger, chalk

Perfect pairing: Serve in a tulip glass alongside oysters, caviar or aged Comté

Salon 2012

The unicorn of Champagne, Salon is produced only in exceptional vintages and typically aged on lees for a decade before release. The 2012 is a study in purity and precision. It’s cerebral yet celebratory, rewarding patience and palate.

Grapes: 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

Bubbles: Razor-fine and electric

Aromas: Green apple, citrus, chalk, white flowers, hazelnut

Perfect pairing: Sea bass, langoustine, or simply raise a glass to life’s rarest moments

Louis Roederer Cristal 2013

The Champagne of royalty, Cristal was created for Tsar Alexander II in 1876, and it remains a symbol of opulence, age-worthy and immediately seductive. The 2013 vintage is a triumph of precision. Biodynamically farmed grapes, aged for six years on lees and another six in bottle, account for its crystalline structure and mineral backbone.

Grapes: Blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Grand Cru vineyards

Bubbles: Silky, with persistent effervescence

Aromas: Citrus, white peach, almond cream, buttery pastry

Perfect pairing: Lobster, scallops and foie gras in a feast that matches the wine’s grandeur

Jacques Selosse ‘Substance’

The rebel poet of Champagne, Jacques Selosse’s Substance cuvée is made using a solera system that blends vintages dating back to 1986. The result is a Blanc de Blancs of oxidative depth and philosophical complexity. Fermented in oak barrels and aged extensively, it has a whisper of Sherry-like salinity.

Grapes: 100% Grand Cru Chardonnay from Avize

Bubbles: Creamy and subdued; more texture than sparkle

Aromas: Baked apple, walnut, honeycomb, nougat, toasted bread

Perfect pairing: Aged cheese, mushroom dishes or roasted chestnuts

Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises 2012

A tribute to pre-phylloxera viticulture, this is a rare and historically significant Blanc de Noirs Champagne. The 2012 vintage is powerful and structured, and over a decade of ageing, it shows remarkable depth.

Grapes: 100% Grand Cru Pinot Noir from ungrafted vines grown in two clos (walled vineyards) in Aÿ

Bubbles: Dense and luxurious, forming an almost velvety mousse

Aromas: Almond, hazelnut, candied pear, cooked apricot, gingerbread

Perfect pairing: Venison, duck confit and dark-chocolate truffles in a holiday feast that honours the wine’s legacy

Perrier-Jouët Belle Époque 2014

This Champagne is instantly recognisable by its hand-painted anemone-design bottle, but the wine inside is equally artistic. The 2014 vintage is beloved for its delicate, floral nose.

Grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and a little Pinot Meunier, sourced from Premier Cru villages

Bubbles: Soft and graceful

Aromas: White blossom, poached pear, honeysuckle, rhubarb

Perfect pairing: Sushi and sashimi. Also ideal for daytime celebrations and garden parties.

As 2025 draws to a close, these seven Champagnes remind us that celebration is an art form. Let your glass hold not just bubbles, but memory, meaning and magic.

High Italian: Alta Langa’s reputation for producing some of the best bubbles outside of Champagne is rising

Born on the slopes of Cuneo, Alessandria and Asti provinces in Piedmont, north-western Italy, the wines of Alta Langa have fizzed into prominence in recent years. The Alta Langa Metodo Classico DOCG, created in 2011, is a relative newcomer in the region and the first to make quality sparkling wines from the ‘Champagne grapes’ of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in the traditional method popularised by the great French houses.

Erika Abate, Export Manager of Enrico Serafino, a fine producer of Alta Langa sparkling wines as well as the renowned Piedmont reds of Barolo and Barbaresco, has spent her whole adult life sampling the area’s vinicultural delights. She says the wines here exude an elegant character with a certain “over-the-top potential” that is best appreciated by a discerning palate. The hillside soils in this higher part of the Langhe wine region also allow the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes to express their full potential.

“The Alta Langa is the only area where sparkling wine production has a minimum elevation of 250 metres above sea level, 30 months’ minimum ageing on lees and mandatory vintage on the label,” she notes, referring to the defining characteristics of this fast-rising bubbly and the shortest time it must be left in contact with leftover yeast sediment prior to secondary fermentation.

Perfect pedoclimate

Abate points out that grape varieties with exceptional potential need perfect conditions in which to grow. “The two varieties, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, have adapted so well in some areas of Piedmont, testifying to the fact that this is exceptional land not only for red wines but also for sparkling wines,” she says.

In the pursuit of excellence in the Alta Langa appellation, the soil-exposure-altitude mix that creates a vineyard’s pedoclimate must be studied carefully. Analysis of soils that can be difficult to cultivate and optimisation of the region’s unique climatic conditions are essential to get the best results from the Pinot Noir grape – a process often requiring specific experience and expertise in the Méthode Traditionelle. “Each stage of the ‘method’ offers opportunities but also great risks,” she notes.

Seabed sediment

She explains that soil origin is key to winemaking success in the wider Piedmont region. “The sedimentary soil of the Langhe originates from the Ligurian-Piedmontese Tertiary Basin that was created from the collision of the European and African plates,” she reveals, indicating that sediments can now be found which developed on the seabed between 12 and five million years ago during the Miocene era.

“Over this time, the sea and the basin conditions changed dramatically and these changes are visible in the rock layers and the various geological formations. The presence of fish fossils and planktonic microorganisms, visible because of shifting soils, shows the richness of life and gave birth to its natural treasures.”

Varietal character

The main wines produced in Piedmont are the Barolo, Barbaresco and Barbera reds, along with some extraordinary whites such as Gavi and Arneis, and sparkling Alta Langa. “My favourite wines are from the Alta Langa, Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera and Gavi appellations,” shares Abate. “I love the Alta Langa for their elegance, crispy acidity and the freshness that these wines can maintain over the years.”

The uniqueness of pours derived from numerous grapes also appeals. “I love Nebbiolo, Barbera and Cortese because these are very terroir-sensitive grapes with a pleasant acidity and minerality, and a unique personality giving harmony to the other elements.”

Abate praises the skilled winemakers in her favourite appellations for coaxing the best qualities from the soil and grapes. “They are bringing out varietal character of these grapes with an extraordinary longevity and tannins that are typical indicators of age ability. Moreover, they are great wines to be paired with food and always give a sense of place whenever you are,” she enthuses.

Top Of The Pops: Uncorking a bottle of Champagne is a slice of the finest things in life

Champagne is synonymous with sparkling wine the world over, but the uniqueness of its precious provenance is stringently protected. Only sparkling wine made and bottled in the Champagne region in the traditional method can be called Champagne and no other bubbles come close as symbols of luxury and celebration.

Sara Checchi, Group Head Sommelier and Beverage Manager of restaurant group Maximal Concepts, has always been intrigued by Champagne due to its unique history, terroir and production techniques. The 50 years from 1670 to 1720 were a turning point for the region as this was when specific techniques for making sparkling wines were developed. Legendary Benedictine monk Dom Pierre Pérignon played a significant role in perfecting the méthod Champenoise, or the traditional method, in which wine undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle to produce carbon dioxide and thus the effervescence essential for its sparkling quality.

Aside from the fascinating history of the area, Checchi also adores the beauty of the landscape, its villages and “the breathtaking panoramic view over the vineyards”. The hillsides, houses and cellars of Champagne were added to the Unesco World Heritage list in 2015.

Climate impact

Checchi says Champagne benefits from a unique combination of both oceanic and continental climatic influences, being neither too cold in winter nor too hot in summer, in which grapevines used in making the region’s famed pour – predominately Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier – thrive.

The soil in the area, located 90 miles east of Paris, also contributes in an incisive way. “Deep in Champagne subsoil are layers of sedimentary rocks composed of chalk, marl and limestone. This type of subsoil allows for good drainage,” explains Checchi.

She does warn, however, that the continental influences can lead to freezing temperatures in winter, bringing frosts that can be devastating for the vineyards, and this occasional occurrence makes Champagne a challenging wine-growing area.

Salon salute

Asked for her Champagne of choice, Checchi unhesitatingly plumps for Salon. “It is definitely my favourite Champagne!” she exclaims. “It is produced from a single grape variety, namely Chardonnay, and comes from a single great terroir – Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru in the Côte des Blancs.”

This exceptional Champagne is only made in years when conditions are perfect. “Salon is produced just in the best vintages; little more than 35 vintages were produced in a whole century!” she says. “Doubtless this is not a bottle for daily consumption because of its price and the difficulty of its availability in the market.”

The thought of this rare pleasure makes every sip of “the experience memorable, every single time I get the chance to drink it”. She believes the wine has a magical, almost potent effect: “If eternal youth exists, Salon definitely knows its secret recipe!”

Despite Salon’s rarity, Checchi has savoured the tipple on enough occasions to be able to compare different vintages. “Even though I have had the honour of drinking many vintages from the maison, the one that is still in my heart is Salon 1997,” she reveals. She was extremely impressed by its youth when she tasted it in January 2020, yet “the nose is complex”.

Describing some of the tastes and aromas of her favourite vintage, she enthuses: “The 1997 is wonderfully refined, its minerality complemented by hints of white flowers. A salty note enhances aromas of bread crust, brioche with a little hint of green apple, and hazelnut.” Her appreciation becomes more infectious as she describes the mouthfeel, which “shows the very essence of Salon, dynamic and energetic. The mousse [sparkling-wine foam] caresses the tongue with the sensuality of silk, and there are rich and persistent flavours of ripe peach, honey and smoked tea.”

Veuve Clicquot launches La Grande Dame 2008 in Hong Kong

Veuve Clicquot, the renowned French champagne brand, is no stranger to innovation. In fact, it’s has been an inherent part of the maison’s DNA ever since Madame Barbe-Nicole Clicquot Ponsardin, an intrepid businesswoman, first took over the company’s reins after her husband’s passing back in 1805 and became known within oenologist circles as La Grande Dame of Champagne.

To pay homage to this avant-garde female entrepreneur, back in 1972 – coincidentally the label’s 200th anniversary – Veuve Clicquot launched a new prestige cuvée range of La Grande Dame champagnes, which debuted with a 1962 vintage.

Madame Clicquot, the inspirational figure behind La Grande Dame champagnes

Last week, the prestigious maison introduced its latest iteration, La Grande Dame 2008, to Hong Kong with an exclusive lunch at Central’s Sevva rooftop restaurant. Celebrating the audacious spirit of Madame Clicquot, the event was jointly hosted by Gaëlle Goossens, one of the brand’s three female winemakers, and Bonnie Chan Woo, winner of the Veuve Clicquot Business Woman Award Hong Kong 2018.

Gaëlle Goossens, Winemaker, Veuve Clicquot

From the go, La Grande Dame 2008 breaks the mold set by its predecessors. Where the 2004 and 2006 vintages featured a 61 and 53 percent pinot noir content respectively, this newest member boasts a staggering 92 percent pinot noir content, a first for Veuve Clicquot. It is perhaps a tad less surprising when you consider that it is also the first vintage overseen by the brand’s newest chef de cave, Dominique Demarville.

Dominique Demarville, the new chef de cave at Veuve Clicquot

“My vision is to bring La Grande Dame towards the finesse and elegance that the Pinot Noir offers us in these Grands Crus,” said Mr. Demarville. “In a way, this is the Veuve Clicquot twist: to combine depth and silkiness with lightness and elegance in this exceptional cuvée.”

Great Bruttania: Can British sparkling wine out-champion champagne?

Champagne, that most favoured of fine French sparkling wine-producing regions, has long held a monopoly when it comes to the supply of socially-acceptable bubbly beverages. In fact, until très, très récemment, any non-Gallic grape grinder bold enough to dabble in bespoke bubbly – particularly if they hailed from the wrong side of the Channel, as British sparkling wine certainly does – would have gotten notoriously short shrift.

That all changed, however, and at a very particular time – January 2010. It was that month, during the ever-prestigious World Sparkling Wine Championships in Verona, that – much to the shock of a contingent of hitherto-unbeaten champagne producers – the UK-originated Nyetimber Classic Cuvée took home the tasting tournament’s top accolade. Even more gallingly, it saw off such previous festival fizz favourites as Dom Pérignon and Louis Roederer to do so. Since then, English sparkling wines have gone from strength to strength, racking up a total of 15 Best Sparkling Wine titles.

So, what exactly has driven the British sparkling wine to becoming a true bubbly behemoth? According to the experts, it seems we have global warming to thank. As the world’s temperatures have risen, the counties of England’s southern coast – notably Kent, Sussex, Surrey and Hampshire – have become increasingly viable when it comes to the production of sparkling wines.

Addressing the effect of this climatic shift on the terroir of southern England, Eric Heerema, Chief Executive of Champenois-smiting Nyetimber, said: “The Home Counties now boast the perfect conditions for the production of sparkling wine. In particular, the cool climate encourages the slow ripening of grapes, allowing local winemakers to deliver truly delicate flavours, ones ideally-suited to the production of truly fantastic sparkling wines.

Unsurprisingly, it’s a development that has not slipped under the radar of the wider world of wine, with the huge influx of investment capital and professional expertise now pouring into the region being an apt testimony to this. Two of the most high-profile British sparkling wine producers – Woodchester Valley and Rathfinny – for instance, have both lured substantial domestic backing. Perhaps more surprisingly, two well-established French champagne houses, Taittinger and Pommery, have also seen the light. This has seen them, separately, invest in their own estates across the Channel with a view to producing a new line of English sparkling wines using traditional champagne techniques and grape varietals.

According to WineGB – the country’s national organisation for grape nurturers and winemakers – more than 2,500 hectares of English and Welsh land have now been co-opted by the wine industry. This equates to some 170 vineyards and around 160 wineries. While sparkling wine accounts for 71 percent of their collective output, there is also now a smattering of reds, whites and rosés being produced. In 2018, apparently, the UK wine output rose to a record high of 15.6 million bottles – a staggering 264 percent increase over the previous year’s frost-afflicted 5.9 million bottles.

In fact, the organisation is so sure of the sustainability of this relatively new-found industry that it is predicting that roughly 30,000 new jobs will be created over the next 20 years. On top of that, by 2040, it is forecasting that wine production will contribute as much as £658 million (HK$6.8 billion) a year to the UK GDP through a combination of domestic and international sales, as well as vineyard-led tourism.

Capturing this new-born confidence in the British sparkling wine sector, Jancis Robinson, a UK-based wine critic, said: “Gone are the days when the English wine industry was dominated by those who decided to try out viticulture in a superfluous pony paddock. The country’s vintners are now producing sparkling wines capable of challenging not just supermarket champagnes, but also the likes of Krug, Cristal and Dom Pérignon.”

While it’s still too early to pronounce on the long-term prospects of Brit bubbly, there are at least clear hopes for continued short-term success. With the results of this year’s World Sparkling Wine Championships currently being decided – and set to be announced in just two months’ time – it could well be that champagne’s previously all-conquering confidence is set for yet another knock. While that may be bad news for the ex-champions of Champenois, it could prove a rare bit of good news for Brexit-blighted Blighty.

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Photos: Nyetimber, Pommery

Interview: How Nicolas Feuillatte became France’s favourite champagne

Despite having only begun in 1976, French champagne brand Nicolas Feuillatte has quickly grown to establish itself as a market leader and one of the pre-eminent champagnes of the world. The brand’s Managing Director, Christophe Juarez, enlightens us on how this phenomenal growth came about…

*Christophe Juarez, Managing Director of Nicolas Feuillatte*

Tell us a little bit about Nicolas Feuillatte.

Champagne Nicolas Feuillatte was founded in 1976. Mr. Nicolas Feuillatte, himself, was a successful businessman who switched from running a US-based coffee bean business to opening his own domain in the Champagne region. He started a small estate and then joined Centre Vinicole de la Champagne, France’s oldest union of champagne producers, to build the Nicolas Feuillatte champagne brand as we know it today.

In the 40+ years of our existence, we’ve become very successful, both within France and on an international scale. I’m proud to say that we are now not only the No.3 champagne brand worldwide, but we are also the absolute leader, the preferred champagne of French people. In fact, we are the top-selling brand within France, which is quite a feat.

*The new Espace Nicolas Feuillatte, inaugurated in April 2017*

What makes Nicolas Feuillatte so unique?

First of all, we are a co-op, which means that we are owned by the growers. We currently work with about 4,500 grape growers which represents one-third of the vineyards in Champagne. This huge source allows us to achieve exactly the blending we want for the best possible flavour and quality.

Secondly, we are known for making only the best champagnes. The jewel in our champagne collection, a special tete de cuvee, is the “Palmes d’Or”. It is created using only the most outstanding, flavour-packed grapes.

Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'Or Rose 2006 — *Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or Rose 2006, a delicious tete de cuvee*

Tell us about the newly refreshed brand visual identity and packaging.

We are a relatively young brand compared to other champagne houses, and we pride ourselves on our innovative approach. We’ve just retooled our entire range of products this year, including the packaging and even our logo. Our new logo is very emblematic. We have the small grapes ringed by heart-shaped vines. The grapes represent our workforce, the people who drive our success. It is a tribute to the thousands of grape producers within the co-op who make Nicolas Feuillatte so special.

We’ve retained the signature blue label for the Reserve Exclusive Brut, which is iconic for Nicolas Feuillatte, to ensure we remain recognisable and attractive. Our bottles have also gone through a significant revamp. The Palmes d’Or collection, which features a unique and eye-catching ‘pearl-marked’ design, will be the next to follow.

*Nicolas Feuillatte Blanc de Blancs 2008*

What’s next for Nicolas Feuillatte?

Our focus now is very much on China. It’s an enormous market with huge potential, and we believe Hong Kong is the perfect gateway. Of course, Hong Kong already boasts a large legion of champagne aficionados, but we hope to introduce them to new expressions of our champagnes as well.

Thank you.

Perrier-Jouët joins The Conrad Hong Kong for Afternoon Tea

Unveiling its latest collaboration, luxury champagne brand Perrier-Jouët presents The Conrad Hong Kong’s latest afternoon tea set. Nestled in the hotel lobby, Executive Chef Claudio Rossi and Pastry Chef Billy Yuen invite you to escape the cold of winter and the rush of the holiday season and celebrate the joy of Christmas.

The delightful selection of dishes are made with deluxe ingredients that elevate the festive mood. Sweets lay atop the spread, offering an exciting palate of French cocktail-inspired treats, many with a berry twist. The classic dessert of mini chestnut Mont Blanc stands out as a seasonal favourite, offering an unmatched sweetness to compliment the champagne.

Placed in the centre and bottom of the festive spread lay the savoury items. Among the marvellous assortment of items, the braised wagyu beef short rib with truffle mashed potato stands out and takes you back to Grandma’s holiday cooking. Another holiday favourite the roasted turkey sandwich with cranberry cream that blends together the nostalgia for autumn and the excitement for Christmas – all in one bite!

Complimenting the sweet and savoury dishes of the tea-set perfectly is the Grand Brut Champagne from Perrier-Jouët. Served in a signature flute glass, the beautiful bubbly is the perfect way to usher the festivities with your near and dear ones.

The Bubbly Perrier-Jouët Champagne Afternoon Tea Set is available from 1 December to 6 January.

Text: Bailey Atkinson

Gäelle Goossens of Veuve Clicquot on female trailblazing and 200 years of rosé

As Veuve Clicquot celebrates the 200th anniversary of its first rosé, we chat with winemaker Gäelle Goossens about the brand’s legacy of female trailblazing, and staying competitive two centuries on.

With over two centuries of winemaking under its belt, how has Veuve Clicquot stayed so successfully, and what makes it relevant to today’s market?

Veuve Clicquot has a perfect balance between tradition, modernity and innovation. It’s been at the core of its DNA since its foundation. The excellence of our Champagne, and the motto of Madame Clicquot: “Only one quality, the finest”. Our spirit of innovation, inherited from Madame Clicquot certainly explains how the brand has kept being so relevant over the centuries.

Wine-making has traditionally been a male-dominated sphere. What are the biggest challenges you face as a woman, and do you see that culture changing?

Things are changing. We see more and more women becoming winemakers and wine specialists. The main challenge for tomorrow will be to see more women in the top management of wine company.

Tell us a bit about the newly announced Veuve Clicquot Business Woman award.

The Veuve Clicquot Business Woman Award was first initiated in 1972 to honour and sustain the legacy of Madame Clicquot – one of Europe’s first female entrepreneurs. It is awarded to those who share the same qualities: an enterprising spirit, with the courage and the determination necessary to accomplish her business goals.

Following a detailed consultation and voting process with an esteemed jury – a panel of five exceptional business people, and an advisor – the Veuve Clicquot Business Woman Award Hong Kong will be awarded at a prestigious ceremony in Hong Kong in October 2018.

For rosé -drinking novices, what are the top things to keep an eye out for when drinking rosé?

Rosé champagne is not a sweet wine as a still rosé. It has more fruits, more intensity and more structure. Rosé champagne is an excellent choice when in a restaurant to share with friends, as it can be paired with spicy food, red meat, sauce meal, vegetables, raw tuna, etc.

VCP created the first rosé champagne d’assemblage (blending). We vinify our own pinot noir red wines first. They are deep, tannic, full-bodied, fruity and complex.

Finally, what is your favourite rosé vintage from Veuve Clicquot?

Vintage Rosé 1989. Deep, rich, intense and complex with smoky notes and dry fruits aromas.

Thank you.

Le Pan: A review of Kowloon Bay’s ritziest restaurant

Taste-testing Le Pan’s seven-course ‘Hedonist’s Lunch’

Kowloon Bay has been undergoing a major revitalisation in the last couple of decades since the old airport relocated to Lantau in 1998, exactly 20 years ago. Nowadays, however, when one thinks Kowloon Bay, the following might come to mind: the Kai Tak Cruise Terminal, concerts at KITEC, the red monstrosity that is MegaBox (Hong Kong’s biggest ice skating rink!) and maybe the cinema at Telford Gardens.

How about the most opulent brunch you could possibly find this side of the harbour?

Kowloon East has finally gotten its own swanky Saturday bubbles ritual by way of Le Pan’s elaborate Hedonist’s Lunch featuring seven courses of contemporary French cuisine in a positively palatial property effused with natural sunlight.

Admittedly, we were not prepared for the grandeur that greeted us upon arriving at Le Pan, in the middle of a heretofore unexplored industrial-looking area of Kowloon Bay. Located on the ground floor of a brand spanking new skyscraper, this expansive restaurant extends over 10,000 square feet – a far cry from the tight spaces of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon.

One might feel a twinge of embarrassment, as we did, about not dressing up for such an impressive setting. But our nerves were quickly calmed upon meeting Herman Pang, Le Pan’s sincere and easygoing Assistant Manager. He even seemed genuinely curious about the hike we were planning to do after the lunch: the nearby “Suicide Cliff” on Kowloon Peak.

After Pang introduced the menu to us, we were then familiarised with the drinks as presented by Lauri Vainio, Le Pan’s Finnish Wine Director and award-winning sommelier. That was the beginning of the day’s free-flow champagne: Jacques Picard “Le Chapitre” Brut NV. If you’re celebrating something as we were, there couldn’t be a more opportune moment for this indulgent menu.

The meal started with a stomach-soothing chicken consommé followed by Royal Oscietra caviar in an oh-so-authentic tin; dig in and you’ll be rewarded with a satisfyingly salty Petuna ocean trout tartare. Crustacean lovers would love the fresh Fine de Claire oyster flown in from France, flavoured with the most subtle ginger vinaigrette. We got a taste of the sea, but it wasn’t overwhelming; texture was impeccable.

The seafood continues with the Blue lobster ‘piperade’, a concoction of arroz bomba grains and calamari: equal parts crispy, foamy and chewy. For the main course, you can choose between a lightly spiced Hapuka fish and jumbo prawns; Picalou French yellow chicken and Hokkaido scallop; or USDA Prime onglet ‘Bordelaise’. We went with the first and last dishes.

The ocean grouper didn’t quite melt in the mouth, but the prawn made up for where the white Hapuka was lacking. We had no complaints about the steak, which came in rich and filling cuts of tender beef with duxelles pureé (mushrooms) and grelot (pearl) onions.

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And last but not least, dessert: the Tropical ‘rum baba’. If you’re a chocolate person, this might not be your cup of tea, but after such a heavy meal you might appreciate the fruity zing and spongey cake. There’s also a weighty cheese selection for those who prefer savoury to sweet.

If one day you find yourself in the vicinity of Kowloon Bay and feel like treating yourself to a stately experience, there is only one place to go. Complimentary valet parking beckons to those with wheels coming from the New Territories and don’t want to get stuck in downtown traffic. For the more centrally located, however, you would have to exhaust the champagne brunches closer to home before heading further afield to this rare gem in Kowloon East.

Le Pan’s Hedonist Lunch is available every Saturday, from noon until 3:30 p.m at HK$980 per head. Ground Floor, Goldin Financial Global Centre, 17 Kai Cheung Road, Kowloon Bay, Hong Kong. (852) 3188 2355. www.lepan.com.hk

Written by: Julienne C. Raboca