Humans have long had an affinity with the animal kingdom. The elements of nature and the symbolic motifs of our world’s magnificent beasts and critters have long been adopted in glyphs, folklore and art throughout the ages.
The world of haute joaillerie is also no stranger to mother nature’s wild side. Fostering bold, whimsical and one-of-a-kind designs to wear and behold, these decorative feral figures are worn as more than just an embellishment to charm onlookers – they are adornments that symbolise one’s spirit and personality.
Among the myriad of animal-inspired jewellery that has slinked out of the jungle, craftsmanship remains at the centre of these intricate jewellery designs. Take for example Cartier’s iconic Panthère Collection and Chopard’s dynamic Red Carpet Collection, creations that combine nature and fine art.
In this photo:
Panthere de cartier ring
Fred Ombre Feline bracelet
Harry Winston Black Necked Crane brooch
Buccellati Animalier Eagle brooch
Buccellati Animalier Rabbit brooch
Boucheron Fuzzy The Leopard Cat ring
Chaumet Les Ciels de Chaumet brooch
Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Ibex brooch
Chopard Red Carpet Collection ring
(Text: Roberliza Eugenio)
The best of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2022
Once known as the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), Watches and Wonders is undoubtedly one of the most hotly anticipated watch fairs each year. For its first 2022 outing – held in Geneva earlier this month – 38 internationally acclaimed brands showcased their latest products to almost 22,000 visitors. Celebrating the spirit of innovation and precision engineering, hundreds of watches were on display, with the seven below deserving special mention.
Cartier Masse Mystérieuse
(Photo courtesy of Cartier)
First on our list is Cartier’s Masse Mystérieuse, a stunningly sleek skeletonised design. Crafted from 950 platinum, this innovative watch is a study in minimalism, with half of its open-worked fascia remaining wholly transparent, while the other half reveals the inner workings of the Calibre 9801 MC automatic movement floating underneath. Adding a splash of colour to proceedings is the ruby cabochon crown, while a charcoal grey alligator leather strap completes its almost industrial appeal.
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept
(Photo courtesy of Piaget)
Similarly open-worked is Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept. The brand is known for crafting super-slim designs – it holds several records for the thinnest timepieces in existence – and this new creation is a tribute to a model first presented four years ago that measures a scant two millimetres thick. To deliver this streamlined look, Piaget has fused the traditional four-layer structure (bezel and crystal, dial, movement and caseback) into one complex construct. Elsewhere, several touches nod to the exact moment this watch was dreamt up.
Achieving different heights of invention, Montblanc has crafted a timepiece to withstand some of Earth’s harshest conditions – atop Mount Everest. The 44mm titanium case of the 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen LE290 is literally devoid of all oxygen in a bid to avoid fogging and oxidation at extreme altitudes and sub-zero temperatures. Then there’s the bidirectional bezel, which marks the cardinal points to ensure climbers keep their bearings. To prove that this isn’t just all promotional hype to boost sales, the brand has partnered with acclaimed Nepalese mountaineer Nimal Purja – scaler of the world’s 14 highest peaks in just six months and six days – who will wear the watch on his next Everest ascent.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht_Master 40
(Photo courtesy of Rolex)
Rolex’s new gem-set Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40 is inspired by the multitudinous colours of the aurora borealis. Equipped with a 40mm waterproof Oyster case in white gold, the latest avatar of this iconic timepiece comes burnished with the cutting-edge calibre 3235 movement and has been paired with the latest Oysterflex bracelet for optimum comfort and durability. A dazzling design, it’s sure to ensnare any passing gaze thanks to the shimmering blue, grey and pink diamonds and sapphires that stud its bezel.
Patek Philippe Ref. 7130R-014 Ladies’ World Time
(Photo courtesy of Patek Philippe)
Also treading a precious path, Patek Philippe has unveiled the new Ref. 7130R-014Ladies’ World Time. Dominated by an all-green motif, this 36mm vintage-inspired creation sees its rose-gold bezel and buckle adorned with 62 and 27 diamonds respectively for a glimmering allure. The self-winding Calibre 240 HU movement, in addition to tracking home time, allows users to view all 24 time zones simultaneously in a ring around its dial – a convenient feature for the post-covid jet-setting fashionistas indeed.
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire
(Photo courtesy of Chopard)
Gentlemen in search of a modern statement timepiece might give Chopard’s L.U.C Full Strike Sapphire an admiring look. Created to mark the L.U.C collection’s 25th anniversary, its claim to fame is a fully transparent design that affords 360-degree views into the internal workings of its calibre L.U.C 08.01-L movement as well as the chiming minute-repeater complication. Limited to an exclusive five-piece release, this see-through effect has been achieved by crafting many of its parts from robust sapphire crystal.
Last on our list of wow-inducing Watches and Wonders Geneva highlights comes courtesy of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945, which literally looks to the skies for its inspiration. Simply brimming with complications, this master class in high-end watchmaking features a zodiac calendar, minute repeater and sky chart with a celestial vault. At 12 o’clock is the gorgeous celestial flying tourbillon, which makes one full cycle circumambulation for each day. Crafted in Galaxia pink gold or Atomium white gold with just five of each available, it’s a guaranteed collector’s item.
The sensual dual-appeal of transformable jewellery
Since the early days of the last century, transformable jewellery has been the staple of many of the world’s foremost luxury brands. This has seen such luminaries as Cartier, Chaumet and Van Cleef & Arpels create some of the most technically complex items in their long histories.
Boucheron New Maharajah transformable necklace
While popularised in the 20th century, such items first appeared almost 100 years ago, at a time when such inventive jewellery was strictly the province of royalty. With many weighty items worn solely on specific occasions, it fell to a number of regally-approved jewellers to tweak several royal favourites, allowing them to be worn across a variety of different engagements.
Cartier Imperio transformable necklace
This saw items created with mix-and-match reassembly as a fundamental part of the design. It was a conceit that was soon to enter the mainstream. With the aid of clips, clasps and brackets, today’s jewellery-adept buyers can easily transform a large item into several complementary smaller ones, frequently cross-matching them with other styles or marques.
Van Cleef & Arpels ZIP transformable necklace
Given their facility for a chameleon-esque shift from mood to mood, occasion to occasion and role to role, it’s not difficult to see why the contemporary woman has such an affinity with these fluid adornments. After all, what better symbol could there be for her own multi-faceted engagement with the demands of 21st-century life?
Bloomin’ Marvellous: A cornucopia of spring-inspired jewelleries
As cool weather gives way to warmer climes and the seductive scent of spring begins to emerge, it’s time to turn our attention once more to that most consistently alluring of seasonal trends – floral jewellery.
Indeed, Mother Earth has long inspired the leading haute joaillerie maisons of the world, leading to the creation of some truly stunning garden-themed creations – Chopard’s decadent Red Carpet Collection 2021 choker and the Manhattan Party necklace by Bulgari, to name but two.
It would be folly, however, to assume that such flower-inspired jewellery has only recently become in vogue. Indeed, such adornments date back to many ancient civilisations, and have traditionally been worn in such elaborate ceremonies as Indian weddings. More recently, this trend has been adopted by the West, with summer brides opting for veils adorned with floral headpieces in a bohemian chic style.
Today, however, the floral fad is used not just for weddings but for every imaginable occasion, great or small. What’s more, they come in a riot of hues, shapes and sizes, making them just the perfect addition be it to subtly enhance your outfit of the day or grab attention at your chosen soiree.
Auspicious in Red: Jewellery to take you from Chinese New Year to Valentine’s Day!
In China, and a lot of other Asian nations, red is the most auspicious shade of all. Whether you’re going with the festive mood or prepping for Valentine’s Day, there is no better way to flaunt the lucky, lovely vermilion than with these fine red-hued, high jewellery creations.
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In the photos: David Morris Rubia necklace; Garrard and Company High Jewellery earrings; Cartier Phaan ring and Les Oiseaux Libérés earrings; Piaget Extraordinary Lights ring; Harry Winston Dual Hearts ring; Valani Atelier x Gemfields Vela earrings; Chopard Paradise Collection ring; Lydia Courteille One of a Kind La Vie en Rose earrings; Graff ruby and diamond ring.
Men’s jewellery is back in style – Top trends here!
The men’s jewellery renaissance is gaining momentum. The creative sartorial pursuits of fashion sensations like Harry Styles, Timothée Chalamet (Cartier’s new friend), Joe Jonas (Chopard’s bud) are to be thanked but back home, all credit goes to the champions of Mirror boy band for fueling the rage in Hong Kong circles.
From the past few seasons, we’re seeing boys in bling on fashion runways but the Spring 2022 collection of luxury houses, from Prada, Gucci, Versace to Ferrari and others, were all gleaming with gems… Below is our edit of the most fashionable men’s jewellery trends of the year. Notice the bling and the ring are getting voluminous in size.
In the photo: Fred Force 10 Collection; Bulgari B.Zero1 ring and Cartier bracelet; Tiffany & Co. T True ring and Maker’s narrow chain necklace; Gucci yellow-gold bracelet and ring with interlocking G
Adding stylish sartorial details to the typically minimalist gold ring and necklace, fine jewellery houses such as Fred, Chautmet, Gucci and Tiffany & Co. these classy collections elegant lines and a rich characteristic to accentuate the hands and wrists.
In the photo: Dior chain necklace; Givenchy chain necklace and lock bracelet; David Yurman chain bracelet
For a flashy number, chain necklaces take on a pared back and more sophisticated appeal than its longer, oscillating iterations. Whether you’re putting together a minimalist look or a modish ensemble, chains offer the perfect accent to any outfit.
In the photo: Vintage Cartier brooch and pin; Etro brooch; Maison Margiela brooch
Extravagant brooches and pins are making a fierce comeback. Fashioned on the red carpet by the likes of Timothée Chalamet and Regé-Jean Page, among many other A-listers are owning their softer sides and turning these traditionally feminine accessories into a unique statement piece for any black tie event.
In the photo: Pearl necklace by Éliou; Afternoon at the Ritz Pearl Story-ring by JLG
The preferred jewel of kings and pop-stars alike, are back in swag for men to don on any occasion. If a chain of pearls, de rigour for men in the 16th and 17th century feels a tad extra, the contemporary male can go the Harry Styles way – wearing minimalist, finest quality solitaire pearls for a subdued layer of style.
In the photo: Solitaire pearl on a gold chain; string of pearls Paradox collection by Arao
These natural wonders are often worn by the highest in royalty and if you’re looking for a place to start shopping – Mirabel Rosar’s sustainable and ethical jewellery outlet, Arao, curates modern yet timeless, gender fluid pieces. Her latest Paradox collection introduces two awe-inspiring lines – Sinag, a stunning single Keishi pearl in a 14k gold strand, and –Sikat, a classic string of pearls are a good place to start if you’re looking to make a statement.
In the photo: John Hardy black jade ring and beaded bracelets; Northern Sky rings by JLG; Messika titanium ring and bracelet; Harry Winston cuff-links and pendant necklace
Luxury jewellers the world over are pushing out sartorial creations that oozes style, character and the essence of joie de vivre. The Northern Sky Story-ring in elongated ice blue spinel by JLG and John Hardy’s dual black jade in sterling silver ring and beaded bracelets among other standouts by Messika and Harry Winston are case in point.
Dialing It Up: Unusually shaped watches that bring a fresh perspective on timekeeping
Round or square dials with flat display cases are pretty much the norm in the world of high-end timepieces. A few daring watch manufactures, however, venture beyond these traditional forms, experimenting with domed displays, transparent cases and unusual timekeeping apertures that are as avant-garde as they are stunning.
Here, we cast a discerning eye over the latest crop of unusually shaped wrist adornments.
Cloche de Cartier by Cartier
First on our list is the bell-shaped Cloche de Cartier. Inspired by luxury maison Cartier’s Cloche design of the ’20s, this idiosyncratic creation boasts a bell-shaped case with the dial’s hour markers rotated some 90 degrees from its usual orientation, giving it the aesthetic of a traditional desk clock.
Six different iterations of the new Cloche de Cartier have been unveiled. Versions encased in yellow gold, pink gold and platinum are equipped with a hand-wound 1917 MC movement, while three skeletonised models – available in pink gold, platinum or platinum with diamonds – feature a calibre 9626 MC movement.
Purnell Escape II Absolute Sapphire
Similarly boasting a see-through appeal is Swiss watchmaker Purnell’s Escape II Absolute Sapphire, which claims the honour of being the world’s first-ever double triple-axis tourbillon to be housed in a full sapphire case with movement bridges and a dial crafted from sapphire crystal.
This delightful open-worked motif affords direct views of the intricately engineered double Spherion movement, as well as the six barrels that power it. Just one piece will be made, so this exceptional 48mm watch is a guaranteed collector’s edition.
Vacheron Constantin American 1921 Pièce Unique
Another one-of-a-kind model with an unusual case is Vacheron Constantin’s American 1921 Pièce Unique, which the marque has painstakingly recreated from the 1919 original. When that vintage timepiece debuted, it was the world’s first-ever cushion-shaped design, and this unique feature has been revived for its 21st-century descendant.
In keeping with the historic nature of its legacy, almost every component of the watch has been constructed exactly as it would have been a century ago, with even the logo reading a period-accurate ‘Vacheron et Constantin Geneve Suisse’.
Greubel Forsey GMT Sport
Injecting an element of 3D sophistication, meanwhile, is Greubel Forsey’s updated GMT Sport. Certain to appeal to jetsetters, its three-dimensional blue dial is punctuated with a second time zone indicator, a rotating globe with universal time and day-night indicator, and a tourbillon at the 2 o’clock position.
Limited to a release of just 33 pieces in titanium, it sports a distinctive ovoid case that gently curves at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock for a more streamlined look.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Carpe Diem Minute Repeater
Not to be outdone, high-end fashion house Louis Vuitton has pulled back the curtain on the Tambour Carpe Diem Minute Repeater, a fantastical horological creation featuring a dominant relief sculpture of a skull on its dial, replete with an intertwining snake. A legion of moving mechanisms stud this truly stunning piece of engineering, be it the snake’s tail that acts as a retrograde seconds indicator, the skull’s jaw gaping open to reveal the words ‘carpe diem’ or the moving lattice that changes the brand’s floral emblem into a star. In short, this is one minute repeater and ‘time on demand’ timepiece that elevates dial art to a whole new strata.
Christophe Claret X-TREM-1
Taking the number one spot on our list of unusually shaped dials is independent Swiss watchmaker Christophe Claret’s X-TREM-1. Having debuted in 2012, this latest edition comes burnished in an eye-catching blue hue. Turning traditional timekeeping completely on its head, it eschews hour and minute hands entirely, instead displaying the time via two orange steel spheres moving up and down demarcated hour and minute displays. Seconds, meanwhile, are indicated by the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock, which rotates every 30 seconds. Powered by a hand-wound FLY11 mechanical movement that takes place of pride on its open-worked fascia, this remarkable creation represents innovative haute horology at its very best.
Feature image: Vacheron Constantin’s American 1921 Pièce Unique movement assembly
Wrist Candy: Five dazzling high jewellery watches to add to your collection
Although the world of haute horology is, today, a male-dominated sphere, the industry actually owes the rise of wristwatches to demand from the fairer sex. During the late 19th century, when pocket watches were still the norm, it was women who had began adorning their wrists with fashionable gem-studded timepieces. Today, high jewellery watches blend the best of haute horology and high jewellery traditions in utterly stunning expressions that make for captivating timepieces that ensure all eyes are firmly on you…
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Purple Arums The line between art and watchmaking is often blurred when it comes to high jewellery watches, and renowned Swiss horologist Jaeger-LeCoultre plays with this amalgam exceptionally well with its latest Reverso,Purple Arums. Taking inspiration from decorative jewellery worn in the ’20s, the 40mm self-winding wristwatch, powered by the watchmaker’s patented Calibre 846 movement, introduces a truly unique Reverso iteration replete with the model’s iconic double-sided rectangular case. Its vivid floral design seamlessly flows across the rotatable case front, exhibiting a high level of craftsmanship that required a painstaking 95-hour process of gem-setting, enamelling and engraving to create.
Vacheron Constantin Égérie Staying with manual-winding chronographs, Vacheron Constantin celebrates the multiple facets of femininity through its new Égérie self-winding diamond-pavé models. Presented at the Watches & Wonders 2021, the ultra chic and elegantly versatile 35mm jewellery watch is truly worth of being added to the collection of any discerning fashionista. Featuring the maison’s signature off-centre display and asymmetrical geometry (artfully interlace two circles), a total of 574 round-cut diamonds punctuate the dial as well as the watch’s bezel, flanks and lugs, imparting an added sparkle to proceedings.
Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Sunrise The next entry on our list of stunning high jewellery watches comes courtesy of Swiss luxury watch and jewellery maker Piaget. The Limelight Gala Precious Sunrise is an automatic movement that features an eye-catching 32mm 18K white gold case and a bezel set with 32 brilliant-cut blue sapphires and 10 brilliant-cut diamonds, all of which were carefully sifted through to create the seamlessly flowing gradient that outlines the snowy, diamond embellished dial mixed with different-sized gemstones — a true beauty for the modern-day woman.
Franck Muller Double Mystery Peony Next up, a marriage between haute horology and haute couture comes through a combination of technical innovation and the art of watchmaking – the intricately detailed Double Mystery Peony from Swiss horology brand Frank Muller. The 42mm mechanical complication, powered by a 42 DM PEONY D 2R CD movement, boasts a gorgeous gem-studded dial replete with 662 brilliant-cut diamonds and precious stones, all of which were painstakingly hand-set. Further accentuating its avant-garde aesthetics are the hour and minute indicators, which are placed on rotating discs at its centre.
Cartier Libre Baignoire Turtle Rounding out our list of high jewellery watches is luxury maison Cartier’s limited-edition Libre Baignoire Turtle watch. Taking inspiration from its 2019 Baignoire predecessor, just 30 pieces of this masterclass in jewellery watchmaking will be produced. Playful, sophisticated and all-but-guaranteed to ensnare any passing gaze, its geometric motif is punctuated with anthracite, buff-topped sapphires and pavé diamonds that together call to mind the scaling of a turtle’s shell.
Auction Highlights: The most desirable and highest commanding collectible items to go under the hammer
Featuring some of the most desirable and highest commanding collectibles that realised outstanding (and record-breaking) sums, at auction recently, from a stunning diamond bracelet, a historic Rolex Daytona, a beautifully illustrated medieval prayer book, and Kanye West’s record-breaking sneakers, these are the top bids that recently hit headlines…
An illustrated prayer book scores top bid The Book of Hour is a medieval Christian prayer book organised by the time of day and comprised of beautifully illuminated texts, sumptuous page decorations, and portrait panels that reflected the wealth and discernment of well-to-do men and women. Recently a Parisian Book of Hours on vellum circa the 1440s went under the hammer for an outstanding US$3.6 million at Christie’s. Illustrated by the Master of the Paris Bartholomeus Anglicus, the tome remains complete and in pristine condition and is said to be the most richly illuminated work of its enigmatic creator.
A historical Rolex Daytona races into the money The first iteration of the highly desirable Rolex Cosmograph Daytona can be traced back to 1963. Designed with the racing driver in mind, the chronograph become one of Rolex’s most-loved and hard-to-find models. This year, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 16516, found its way to Sotheby’s Important Watch sale, where it realised more than HK$24 million. Sporting a one-of-a-kind lacquered ‘Stella’ dial in turquoise, the 40mm timepiece remains in working condition with only minor blemishes and visible surface wear. According to the auction house, it is one of five models made that year nicknamed ‘Zenith’ for their Zenith calibre 4030 movements.
A magnificent jewel snapped up at showpiece sale Hong Kong remains the precious heart of Asia when it comes to valuable diamonds and gems. The region’s insatiable appetite for large, high-quality stones proved to be unabated when a show-stopping Diamond and Rock Crystal Bangle sold for an astounding HK$46.9 million at auction on 21 April. A hot ticket item in Sotheby’s Hong Kong Magnificent Jewels sale, this rare and phenomenal 63.66-carat pear-shaped internally flawless white diamond bracelet was rightly acclaimed as an architectural masterpiece by its creator, French luxury jeweller Cartier.
Kanye West’s record breaking sneakers Recently, Kanye West’s 2008 ‘Grammy worn’ Nike Air Yeezy 1 Prototype sneakers went under the hammer at a private sale at Sotheby’s. The 13-year-old sports shoes fetched US$1.8 million, the highest publicly recorded price for a pair of sneakers, tripling the auction house’s record for being the most valuable sneakers ever sold. Nike Air Yeezy was the first collaboration by a major footwear label with a non-athlete. It was, at the time, Nike’s top-secret project that became “one of the most brilliant reveals in sneaker history and a pillar in the advent of modern sneaker culture”, according to Sotheby’s.
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Rose Hip: The lasting allure of rose gold jewellery
With spring subsiding into full on-summer sun, it’s the perfect time to review this season’s chicest hue – rose gold. This most alluring of alloys never fails to grant your skin the subtlest of blushes, ensuring you of a sun-kissed halo glow wherever you go. While, today, this unique pink shade is all the rage in haute joaillerie circles, it actually originally rose to fame some two centuries ago, largely on account of the influence Peter Carl Fabergé, that most renowned of Russian jewellers.
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Image: Messika Paris Released Sun necklace; Chaumet Josephine Collection ring; Piaget Wings of Light ring; Suzanne Kalan Audrey ring; Selim Mouzannar Mina necklace; Daniela Villegas Chameleon ring; De Beers Enchanted Lotus ring
This innovative craftsman was the among the first to incorporate rose gold, at the time a somewhat novel material, into his designs, most notably in the shape of his iconic Fabergé eggs. So famous did these accessories become that the material initially came to fame as ‘Russian Gold’, before wider international use saw the current more general term adopted
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Image: Cartier Juste un Clou bracelet; Buccellati Aubade cocktail earrings; Ileana Makri Grass Seed ring; FRED ring; Repossi Antifer ring; Pomellato Fantine ring; Versace Trésor de la Mer choker
The actual colour of the material can vary from an orange-tinted yellow to a deep red depending on the ratio of yellow gold to copper, with an increased proportion of the latter bestowing more of a scarlet tinge to the alloy, Malleable to the extreme, it serves as the perfect counterpoint to a plethora of precious gemstones, as perfectly evidenced by both Piaget’s multi-hued Wings of Light ring and Versace’s ocean-inspired Trésor de la Mer necklace.
