High jewellery designers have plunged into the depths of the ocean to find inspiration for a range of ocean-inspired jewellery. Be it the blue hue of the waves, the striking pattern of a ship’s anchor, the dazzling whiteness of the sands on the beach, high jewellery has been infused with all things nautical this season. Check out our top picks of maritime jewellery.
Buccellati returns to Hong Kong with the launch of its brand-new boutique at Harbour City
Earlier this month, Italian high-jewellery brand Buccellatiofficially returned to Hong Kong since its first store in 1960, with the launch of its brand-new boutique at Harbour City.
Staying true to the iconic Buccellati style, the store features art elements inspired by the Italian Renaissance. The display windows showcase the house’s one-of-a-kind high jewellery creations as well as its most popular pieces.
In the wake of the new opening, we spoke to Maria Cristina Buccellati, daughter of founder Gianmaria Buccellati and the brand’s Communications and Marketing Director, to find out more about the intricate workmanship displayed in each and every collection.
Did you always plan to follow in the footsteps of your father and represent the family business?
When I was younger, I would finish school and the driver would take me to my father’s office. I remember one time, I was playing with an opal as it looked like an egg and my father told me off, as it was very precious. I have always been fascinated watching the artisans too and I had no doubt that I would follow in the footsteps of my father.
Engravings are a distinguishing mark of all objects signed Buccellati. What is the history behind this tradition?
In Milano, there was a very important tradition of engraving since the 18th century mainly on weapons and armours. According the intricacy of the engraving, you could understand the importance of the families. I think it is something that gives a distinct difference to the metal as well as a personality and softness to the jewel.
What’s more, it is a rule for most of our jewels to be designed and then handcrafted with two gold colors. Diamonds are often set in white gold to retain their beauty and yellow gold for the rest of the jewel.
Engraving process of Macri colletion
Please tell us about the workmanship behind the Hawaii and Tulle collections?
For the Hawaii collection, we create a thread of gold which is twisted on itself. With the help of a tool that holds the thread, the artisan twists it and creates the design. Again, the human touch makes a big difference. That’s what Buccellati is about.
For the Tulle collection, the artisans take a leaf of gold and pierce it with a drill to make simple holes. Using a manual saw into each of the holes they have made, they create the hexagonal shape which is typical of our honeycomb texture. Each hole takes about 3 to 4 hours to finish. With each ring there is around 200 to 300 hexagons, taking around three to four months to be ready and a necklace can take about two years to complete. They are all collector pieces and they are more than jewels, we like to consider them pieces of art.
Our most important asset is our artisans which I consider artists, because the competence and artistry they have are rare. They need a strong passion and hours upon hours of practice to become skilled
In most cases, this profession is a family legacy passed from generation to generation. In fact their grandfathers used to be my grandfather’s artisans. In addition, a few years ago we created a school where we teach the younger generations the secrets behind this incredible work
What is the most popular collection to date and why?
Macri is probably the most popular because it has the signature engraving and it is versatile. The bracelet can be worn alone during the daytime and, in the evening, it can be stacked with a few more.
This collection was my favorite when I was younger and in fact, still is. When I was thirteen, I remember asking my father for the bracelet. He said I was too young but so kindly named the collection after me. Then, when I was seventeen, he finally gave it to me as a gift. I was so pleased!
Macri Collection
What does Buccellati represent?
I think Buccellati represents the search for something that is different and related to art, excellence and passion. It fulfils the desire of culture and beauty, rather than a desire for material goods. Moreover, the Buccellati jewel can be passed down to future generations because it is timeless and will always retain its elegance.
Buccellati, Shop G312, Ground Floor, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Kowloon
Natural Beauty: Gafencu’s top 8 picks of brooches inspired by Mother Nature
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Despite technology cocooning all aspects of modern life, Mother Nature is an inevitable presence. Time and again, art has borrowed from nature, with artists singing paeans of praise to all aspects of nature through diverse art forms. Jewellery too has come a long way, from actual elements of nature adorning the human body (think seashell jewellery by Neanderthals) to jewellery designers mimicking natural elements in their designs.
Here, we’ve put the spotlight on eight such high joaillerie brooches that have captured some of the most striking feats of nature. Elaborate, intricate and exquisitely beautiful, these brooches are only second to nature’s originals.
Andrea Buccellati discusses keeping jewellery in the family
As one of Italy’s most prestigious jewellers, the Buccellati name is synonymous with exquisite gems and watches.
The company’s president, Andrea Buccellati, spoke to Gafencu recently about how he got started in the family business, why Buccellati never uses outside designers and how his daughter is moving the brand forward.
Describe a typical day for you.
I don’t really have a typical day because I cover the business worldwide. When I have the time, however, I follow the production of new designs day-by-day, including any prototypes we have.
My role as president also takes me across the world because it is important for the Buccellati brand to be close to its clients. Travel takes up a lot of my year.
You started working with your dad when you were 16. Did you explore any other career options or were you always destined to join the family business?
I think it was destiny in a certain way to join the family business. I have always loved to create and use my hands, even when I was a little kid. Thankfully, I had the perfect opportunity to develop this with my family.
When I was 12 years old I knew I wanted to work in the family business and at 16 I started to work in the office with my father after school.
At the start it was just to learn how the business worked. But once I turned 18, I started the serious full time work every day.
The Buccellati tradition is to keep creative skills within the family and not use outside designers. Why is this?
It is a very important tradition because the history of the Buccellati family is to have designers from each generation.
The logic for this is very simple: you keep the style and tradition within the family. By sticking to this tradition, you don’t have a lot of influence from outside markets which means you don’t copy other products.
Also, it is not enough to just design, you have to know how to create jewellery. And in order to create jewellery for us, you have to live Buccellati.
My daughter has followed in this tradition and she is the future of Buccellati.
How do you and your daughter, Lucrezia Buccellati, work together to design the jewellery?
We see each other in Milan and New York, where she lives. We spend time together working on designs and coming up with ideas.
Inspiration is very important and when I am in New York I am in contact with a different world. It is a more dynamic world than in Italy.
How has working with your daughter helped to move the brand forward?
Lucrezia is the first woman to ever have this role within the company (creative designer) so she comes in with a lot of new ideas and she helps us take a different approach. Her input is for a product that is wearable, young and fresh. She is the perfect person to move Buccellati forward.
What do you draw inspiration from when you’re creating jewellery?
Sometimes I will see a beautiful painting and imagine jewellery. Sometimes I look at a beautiful woman or nature or architecture. It is a mixture of many things.
How do you view Hong Kong as a jewellery destination compared to the US and Europe?
The mixture of different cultures makes Hong Kong a very interesting market. Our Asian clients are more concerned about the details of a piece and understanding the background of the jewellery. It is not just about buying.
