Wing The Lead: Buccellati’s ‘The Prince of Goldsmiths – Rediscovering The Classics’ Retrospective Exhibition

The Buccellati jewellery house is hosting a retrospective exhibition, “The Prince of Goldsmiths, Rediscovering the Classics,” in Venice, coinciding with the Venice Biennale 2024, from 18th April to 18th June 2024. The exhibition, created and produced by Balich Wonder Studio, features Buccellati’s jewellery and silverware pieces on Oficine 800 on the Giudecca Canal, with curation by Alba Cappellieri uniting designs from decades. The title “The Prince of Goldsmiths” comes from the words of Italian poet Gabriele D’Annunzio, whose friendship with Mario Buccellati testifies to the Maison’s connection with Italian history since its founding in 1919.

The exhibition aims to rediscover the classics of Buccellati’s goldsmithing art, which has designed jewels with everlasting beauty for over a century. Classical Italian architecture, painting, and sculpture have inspired the goldsmithing creations and dialogue with the precious jewels in the exhibition, enhanced with video installations that immerse visitors into the Buccellati world. The exhibition is divided into four parts, focusing on the generations of the Buccellati family, silver and gold accessories, the most famous silver designs, and jewellery.

Balich Wonder Studio divided the installation concept into two parallel pieces, drawing inspiration from Oficine 800’s unique long and thin design. The visitor follows an ideal perspective line traced by a play of lines and geometries; at times, the path is imagined and directed by the video installations; at other times, the perspective is indefinitely duplicated by a deft use of mirrors. The inventive idea of Bal Wonder Studio celebrates the many temporal spaces that typify Maison Buccellati’s essence by fusing the latest cutting-edge technology with classically inspired shapes like arches and columns.

The Buccellati Generations exhibit showcases the evolution of the Buccellati style over a century, with the wings of the ‘Buccellati Venice Butterfly’ representing beauty and rebirth. The second room, ‘Manmade Wonders’, showcases precious silver creations that embody the 20th-century elegance, including small boxes, smoking accessories, and handbags. Inspired by Italian arts, geometric decorative elements, and brocaded fabrics, Mario Buccllati and Gianmaria Buccellat created these masterpieces with meticulous care, skill, and patience. Gabriele d’Annunzio was a great admirer of Buccellati’s art, commissioning hundreds of pieces of jewellery and silverware that adorned his Vittoriale residence.

The third room, ‘Natural Wonders’, showcases silver masterpieces characteristic of the Buccellati Style, distinguished by the Arte Sottile, or the art of masterfully working silver. This sanctuary of nature-inspired creations exemplifies the craftsmanship of Buccellati’s masters in ancient techniques, such as embossing and chiselling, and celebrating fauna and flora in their luxuriant beauty. Semi-precious stones blend with silver in refined creations, while materials like bamboo, horn, porcelain, and Murano glass combine to forge sculptural forms of extraordinary grace.

In the last room, ‘The Gallery of the Icons’, the Buccellati Maison’s iconic pieces come to life in a long, endless, completely white gallery featuring neoclassical-style columns. The four central columns display the four main distinctive techniques of the Maison: Tulle, Lace, Engraving, and Enchainment, which transform gold into an animated surface, evoking the textures of the finest fabrics. In the side columns, one can admire iconic creations such as Ombelicalis autoirs, Eternelle rings, and festive Cocktail high jewelry, while in the opposite columns, the Macri, Hawaii, Etoilée, and Opera collections celebrate natural and architectural beauty with refined details and timeless elegance.

Venice was chosen as the natural home for the retrospective, as it is widely recognized as a masterpiece of art and represents timeless beauty and a goldsmith’s art that lives daily in the contemporary world. The exhibition retraces the distinctive themes of Buccellati’s creations, highlighting the craftsmanship and preciousness of the classic all-important pieces of history.

Wing Framework

Buccellati gems have always been inspired by tradition, methods, and the beauty of nature. “The Buccellati Generations,” featuring four brooches fashioned like butterflies, allows guests not just to witness the four masterpieces in this chamber, but instead, be engulfed by a dream of sketches and images that create an utterly immersive environment.

A big, complex open work is displayed in the first brooch, which the originator, Mario, created in the 1950s. The second one is notable for its striking use of color and stone combinations, and was made by Mario’s son Gianmaria. The third is a masterpiece of honeycomb carefully built using the Tulle technique, exhibiting exceptional accuracy and talent. It was made by Gianmaria’s son Andrea, and it was based on an original 1995 design. Lastly,  Buccellati’s Venezia Butterfly, created by Andrea Buccellati in collaboration with his daughter Lucrezia, incorporates all the Maison’s techniques from openwork to tulle to bring the style and elegance of the past into the present.

The sculpted parts of yellow gold and the use of diamonds for the wings’ margins and a light white gold lace all contribute to the unique play of gold colour contrasts that are characteristic of Buccellati. Not only does the tulle pattern encircle the naiveté-cut diamond, but it also highlights the intricacy of the tulle method and gives the wings a hint of impalpability and intensity.

Because butterflies are symbolic of grace, elegance, change, and the desire for rebirth, the Buccellati Family’s creatives have always found great inspiration in them. As a result, the four brooches represent the excellence of the Buccellati Maison, its enduring craftsmanship, and its methods that have been applied for more than a century.

‘The Prince of Goldsmith, Rediscovering the Classics’ Exhibition’

18th April —June 18th 2024

OFICINE 800, Fondamenta S. Biagio, 800, 30133, Venice VE


Awe Opera: Buccellati Opera – Icona Collections

The Buccellati Opera Icona Collections encompass a wide range of jewellery pieces including rings, necklaces, earrings, bracelets and brooches. These designs are inspired by various elements found in nature, such as flowers, leaves and animals, which are intricately translated into exquisite jewellery forms.

While we adore the four-point Opera Tulle motif, The Buccellati Opera collection is always incorporating fresh and fascinating twists – crafted in 18K gold and adorned with luminous diamond details to create breathtaking masterpieces that are admired around the world.

A testament to the brand’s commitment to timeless beauty, exceptional craftsmanship and artistic expression, each piece is a wearable work of art, meticulously created to be cherished for generations.

Red Ringer: Embracing Luck and Fortune – The resplendence of red jewelleries in Chinese New Year celebrations

As the vibrant hues of red fill the air, and the streets come alive with the sound of firecrackers, it can only mean one thing — the Chinese New Year is upon us. This auspicious occasion, steeped in rich traditions and symbolism, holds special significance for millions around the world. Among the many customs associated with this joyous festival is the belief in the power of red jewellery to bring luck and fortune. In Chinese culture, the colour red holds profound symbolism. It is believed to embody energy, happiness, and good fortune. Red is associated with the Chinese zodiac sign of the Dragon, which is highly revered and considered a symbol of power and prosperity. This vibrant colour is thought to ward off evil spirits and attract positive energy, making it an integral part of the festive atmosphere.

The deep red hues of rubies, garnets, and red agates are particularly favored, as they represent vitality and abundance. These gemstones amplify the positive energies of the wearer and provide a stunning accessory to complement traditional Chinese attire.

Buccellati ring

Buccellati bracelet

Buccellati necklace

Chopard bangle

Chopard earrings

Chopard ring

Chopard necklace

Chopard ring

Chopard ring

Chopard earrings

Chopard earrings

Chopard earrings

Chopard necklace

Chopard necklace

Pink Layer: The allure of rose gold is its timeless elegance for modern tastes

In the realm of jewellery, few trends have captivated the hearts of fashion-forward individuals quite like rose gold. With its warm and romantic hue, it has become a symbol of modern elegance and sophistication. Whether adorning rings, bracelets or necklaces, this exquisite metal has a timeless allure that effortlessly combines tradition and contemporary style.

Also known as pink gold or red gold, this colour of jewellery has a rich history dating back to the early 19th century. Initially popularized in Russia, the captivating alloy gained widespread recognition during the Art Nouveau period. Combining the lustrous beauty of gold with a touch of copper, rose gold exhibits a delicate blush hue that sets it apart from other precious metals. Its unique colour imparts a warmth and femininity that adds a distinctive charm to any piece of jewellery.

As trends come and go, rose gold remains a steadfast symbol of sophistication and modern style, ensuring its place as a cherished treasure for generations to come.


MIKIMOTO necklace

MIKIMOTO earrings

Chaumet necklace

Cartier ring

Cartier necklace

Cartier earrings

Chaumet ring

Chaumet ring

Buccellati bangle

Buccellati earrings

Buccellati ring

Chaumet cuff

Buccellati bracelet

Opera Genre Studies

The Multiverse of Buccellati Opera High Jewellery Collections


Opera Tulle is a collection by Buccellati that combines the tradition of ancient goldsmithing techniques with the originality and beauty of its design. The collection includes rings, sautoirs, flexible bracelets, pendant and button earrings, all featuring the radial tulle layer, a hallmark of most precious Buccellati creations. The logo element is set with semi-precious stones, coloured enamels, or left unset to exalt the transparency and lightness of the tulle workmanship.

Embellishing dates back to the goldsmithing tradition of the Greeks and Romans, but it developed significantly during Byzantine art. Buccellati revives the traditions of enamelling and uses them to create a new decorative element full of charm and elegance. Gold is covered with a homogenous layer of enamel, successively cooked and fixed to the metal surface. The tulle decoration, one of Buccellati’s signatures, enshrines coloured enamel and stones and brings an iconic touch.

Truly, it is a collection with a great personality and an unmistakable style, reflecting the prestige, elegance, and femininity typical of each Buccellati piece, making the brand synonymous with style and timeless beauty worldwide.


Next, in keeping with the Maison’s purest style, Buccellati designed the Opera Maxi line, which is a magnified version of the logo element paired with the customary tulle workmanship.

It makes a bold statement without sacrificing discretion or elegance. A central diamond is an option, as well as borders with or without diamonds.


The Galileo pendant, dedicated to Galileo Galilei, is a symbol of his genius and creativity, a key figure in the scientific revolution. It creates movement like stars in the cosmos, vibrating and rotating with great plasticity. The pendant is composed of concentric logo elements in alternating gold colours, rotating along an axis to create volume. Available in two versions with or without diamonds, the pendant confirms traits of great personality and unmistakable style, typical characteristics of the Buccellati Maison.

The Wild Side: Inventive and artistic, jewellers across the globe are taking the animalistic approach

From ancient gold jewellery to contemporary gems, we have been attempting to capture the beauty of the natural world in our art and ornaments for thousands of years. Animals have served as a source of inspiration for artists, who have discovered materials that may hold the key to their creation’s mystery in stunning stones and rare metals. Our understanding of our own natures is shaped by these projections, which allude to our ancestry and the transition from nature to culture.

The urge to interpret animals as symbols is related to our understanding of what it means to be human and this comprehension links historical works of art and societies. Animal representations served as allegories, artistic inspirations, or emblems of creation, supporting widely-held myths or beliefs. Through the use of wild animals as intermediates, these animal images help us to comprehend the interactions between humans and nature, as demonstrated by top jewellery houses like Cartier, Buccellati and Chopard.

Chopard bracelet

Boucheron ring

Tiffany & Co. earring

Boucheron bracelet

Buccellati brooch

Cartier necklace

Cartier ring

Tiffany & Co. bracelet

Tiffany & Co. earring

Cartier necklace

Boucheron ring

Buccellati brooch

Linear Silvers

Jewellery is always an investment worth making and now more than ever, there has been an influx in sales. We’re familiar with the dazzle of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. As of late, other labels too are catching our eye.

Chaumet Ring

On the runways, jewellery frequently plays a supporting role as a lovely decoration or a subtle accent that you only see when you zoom in.

Chopard Pendant

But jewellery may also reveal a lot about a person’s personality and sense of style, whether it be basic or maximalist, daring or conservative.

Chopard Ring

It provides insight into a person’s priorities and interests, whether they be family and craft as demonstrated by antique artifacts and hand-made trinkets, or nature with crystals and sustainable materials.

Cartier Bracelet

Elsewhere, fashion’s artistic inclinations came through in astonishing statement hoops, wire-like sculptures, and extra-long fringe earrings, elevating the body to a walking canvas.

Buccellati Pendant


(Text: Joseff Musa)

Neck’s Best Thing: Stunning décolleté dazzlers for this season’s soirées

There’s no stronger way to make a statement than to adorn your neck with a stunning, sparkling necklace. Whether it’s a thick choker-style design like Bulgari’s Mediterranean Queen necklace, open-worked creations like Van Cleef & Arpels’ Trésor Astral number or dangling dazzlers like Chanel’s Allure Céleste necklace, there are attention-grabbing bejewelled bijouterie for every special occasion.

To ensure your statement necklace does all the talking, opting for the right neckline is key. Strapless, off-the-shoulder or v-neck gowns or tops are a must when it comes to showing off your chosen accessory to perfection. Avoid clashing with strong patterns or detailing. Rather, monochromatic ensembles can pair perfectly with a strong necklace, provided that it is form-fitting and one colour throughout. However you choose to match your stunning piece of jewellery, with these gorgeous creations, all eyes are sure to be on you.

In the photos:

  1. Van Cleef & Arpels Trésor Astral
  2. Graff New Dawn
  3. Buccellati Étoilée
  4. Bulgari Mediterranean Queen
  5. Harry Winston Blue Python
  6. Chanel Allure Céleste
  7. Gübelin Dancing Dunes 

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)


Also Read: The sensual dual-appeal of transformable jewellery

Rose Hip: The lasting allure of rose gold jewellery

With spring subsiding into full on-summer sun, it’s the perfect time to review this season’s chicest hue – rose gold. This most alluring of alloys never fails to grant your skin the subtlest of blushes, ensuring you of a sun-kissed halo glow wherever you go. While, today, this unique pink shade is all the rage in haute joaillerie circles, it actually originally rose to fame some two centuries ago, largely on account of the influence Peter Carl Fabergé, that most renowned of Russian jewellers.

Image: Messika Paris Released Sun necklace; Chaumet Josephine Collection ring; Piaget Wings of Light ring; Suzanne Kalan Audrey ring; Selim Mouzannar Mina necklace; Daniela Villegas Chameleon ring; De Beers Enchanted Lotus ring

This innovative craftsman was the among the first to incorporate rose gold, at the time a somewhat novel material, into his designs, most notably in the shape of his iconic Fabergé eggs. So famous did these accessories become that the material initially came to fame as ‘Russian Gold’, before wider international use saw the current more general term adopted 

Image: Cartier Juste un Clou bracelet; Buccellati Aubade cocktail earrings; Ileana Makri Grass Seed ring; FRED ring; Repossi Antifer ring; Pomellato Fantine ring; Versace Trésor de la Mer choker

The actual colour of the material can vary from an orange-tinted yellow to a deep red depending on the ratio of yellow gold to copper, with an increased proportion of the latter bestowing more of a scarlet tinge to the alloy, Malleable to the extreme, it serves as the perfect counterpoint to a plethora of precious gemstones, as perfectly evidenced by both Piaget’s multi-hued Wings of Light ring and Versace’s ocean-inspired Trésor de la Mer necklace.

Cuff Love: Gifts for the wrists…

Images: Cartier Juste un Clou bracelet; Tiffany & Co. Elsa Peretti Bone cuffs

Few jewellery designs can hope to match the longevity of the cuff bracelet. Indeed, these open C-shaped creations first came to prominence some 7,000 years back, a time when they were worn by both male and female members of ancient Incan, Mayan, Roman and Egyptian royalty. Crafted from a variety of metals and set with precious gemstones, these accessories served as symbols of their undeniably lofty status.

Images: Gucci bracelet; FRED Collier bracelet; Chopard Precious Lace bracelet; Chaumet Perspectives de Chaumet yellow gold cuff; Jewelry by Marsha cuff; Diamond Scene wide diamond cuff.

In the intervening millennia since those long-ago days, cuff bracelets – those designed to adorn the wrist with nary a clasp or fastening in sight – remain a constant of the haute joaillerie world. Now largely favoured by the fairer sex, they can be worn on one hand as a solo piece or simultaneously on two in a style akin to the amulets of old.

Imaes: Fortunoff diamond and sapphire cuff; Takahiromiyashita Thesoloist silver single bone shaped cuff; Buccellati Ortensia cuff; Bahdos two-tone diamond cuff bracelet; Page Sargisson hand-carved bracelet; Nicole Rose Fine Jewelry cuff bracelet

Available in a myriad of hues and sizes, while being flexible to the extreme, the more minimalist designs – notably Cartier’s Juste un Clou creation or Chopard’s Precious Lace bracelet – can easily be worn on an everyday basis. When dressing up for special occasions, though, a more ostentatious look be guaranteed through the deployment of larger statement pieces, such as Fortunoff’s dazzling sapphire-and-diamond number or Buccellati’s Ortensia cuff.