Light Fantastic: Dials can defy the dark with a touch of super-luminescent razzle-dazzle

Watches that glow in the dark offer the wearer reassurance they will be able to read the time even under most trying of circumstances. Many of the prestigious brands paint the hands and dial of their timepieces with a special pigment that gleams by absorbing and then reemitting light. Unfortunately, the first so-called lume watches derived their luminescence from radium, a radioactive material, and were discontinued, but the luminous phosphorescent glowing solution now used to coat key parts of the watch face is considered completely safe.

Rolex has long enjoyed a reputation for producing watches with that extra special glow. Indeed, some of their early pocket watches made for the military were painted with luminous material. Today’s collections use Super-LumiNova, which first came to light in 1933, or the brand’s proprietary Chromalight technology, which debuted in 2008, for luminescence.

The Chromalight display of the Oyster Perpetual Explorer 40, for instance, is designed to offer excellent legibility in all circumstances. The blue glow emitted in dark conditions lasts for about eight hours, while in daylight a distinctive bright white hue emanates from the watch. The new Explorer, a collection made famous by Himalayan expeditions, is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel.

Luminescence is a critical attribute for divers’ watches in murky underwater conditions. The Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge sports an array of features to combat such an environment, including patented case architecture with a sealed Triplock crown set to withstand extreme pressure and Chromalight display with superb luminescence to enhance underwater legibility.

The need for outstanding visibility has also played an important role in the design of Bell & Ross watches. The Lum collection, launched in 2017, is inspired by aeronautical instrumentation where readability and luminosity are key. Dials, numerals, indices and hands are highly legible day and night due to their Super-LumiNova coating.

In recent years, models have emitted a range of colours, from the intense green glow of the BR 03-92 Grey Lum to others exhibiting a pale yellow luminescence. The most recent iteration, the BR-X5 Green Lum, is crafted from titanium and an innovative photo-luminescent composite material, LM3D. So, unlike in previous iterations, it is the 41mm case that glows fully in the dark, serving to magnify the dial – replete with luminous hour and minute markers, hands, date and power-reserve indicators – and give the watch a surreal look.

Launched in 2010, the youthful, avant-garde brand of Ressence takes a minimalistic approach to watch design. Its latest release, the Type 1° M, features engraved indications filled with grade A Super-LumiNova on a convex German silver dial. The glow effect is enhanced by a greater range of colour codes than previously seen (M stands for Multicolour), with green, blue, yellow and red appearing on the hour, minute, second and weekday discs respectively in a beautiful contrast with the light grey dial. Its unique Ressence Orbital Convex System module is driven by the minute axle of a customised 2892 base calibre. Notably, there is no crown – time-setting and winding are accomplished via a retractable lever on the caseback.

Breitling has recently updated its Avenger range, and the new B01 Chronograph 44 Night Mission, powered by the Breitling calibre 01, has Super-LumiNova-coated indices, numerals and hands on a carbon fibre dial of all-black, or yellow with chronograph counters in black. The numerals are particularly legible. A ceramic bezel and case, with a titanium caseback, crown and pushers, round off a super-strong design.

Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black ETNZ Edition pays tribute to the America’s Cup and defending champions Emirates Team New Zealand. The visually striking timepiece combines the turquoise hue of the team logo with the deepest black, while the distinctive green glow emitted in the dark by the white Super-LumiNova adds to the feast of colours. Its power comes from Omega’s Master Chronometer Calibre 9900.

The Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep in Summer Blue, meanwhile, joins a line in homage to a world-record dive of 2019. When UV light is directed at the lacquered dial, the words “Omega was here” are revealed.

One of the hallmarks of a Roger Dubuis timepiece is its superb luminescence, exemplified by the kaleidoscope of colours emanating from the synthetically grown spinels – graded from red to blue, and coated with Super-LumiNova – on the dial of the eye-catching Excalibur Blacklight Spin-Stone Monobalancier. This dazzling combination of colour and light bounces off the 42mm Eon gold case and bezel set with curved synthetic sapphires.

Capturing the free-spirited movement of the sea and the creatures who dwell within it, Seiko has added a “Whale” model to its Prospex Thong Sia Exclusive Limited Edition collection. The automatic diver’s watch features a bright white dial and bracelet and contrasting black hands and case. The bezel, hands and indices are coated with LumiBrite for practical and aesthetic reasons.

A skeletonised chronograph has joined the TAG Heuer Monaco range. It comes in a choice of three different colours powered by the Heuer 02 movement with an 80-hour power reserve. The distinctive skeleton dial, a first for the line, is housed in a tough grade 2 titanium case. In another innovation for the model, the date window (along with the indices and hands of the watch) are embossed with Super- LumiNova, ensuring brilliant legibility even in low light.

Chopard’s new ‘Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Bamford Edition ‘Desert Racer’ features oversized 6 and 12 o’clock Arabic numerals which are enhanced with black SuperLuminova© – thereby meeting motorsports’ inherent legibility requirements.

Swiss Precision: Geneva Watch Days allows Switzerland’s smaller names their day in the sun

Geneva Watch Days draws a plethora of independent manufactures to the city’s waterfront, where they shine alongside the bigger boys. The summer event acts as a platform for Swiss watchmaking and has been growing in stature since it was inaugurated in 2020 by eight prestigious brands. The number of participants has since mushroomed, and this year some 40 fine watchmakers took the opportunity to release new models or showcase their most eye-catching designs.

Take Breitling, which launched the new Navitimer 36 and 32 – two slender iterations, 36 mm and 32 mm respectively, to round out the Navitimer collection, and ideal for those who prefer a less weighty time machine on their wrists. Powered by the robust Breitling Calibre 17, the luxury models have mother-of-pearl dials studded with lab-grown diamonds and 18-carat red gold cases with cambered sapphire glass that is glare- proof on both sides. They can be worn with a seven- row traceable gold bracelet or an alligator leather strap. The 32mm version embraces the line’s first- ever powdery pink and light blue faces alongside the classic white. Using sustainable gold and diamonds vouches for the watchmaker’s integrity as well as its aesthetic credentials.

Bulgari’s watch collections combine Italian aesthetics with Swiss craftsmanship, as epitomised by novelties like the Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Automatic and Octo Finissimo Carbon Gold Perpetual Calendar which were presented at the Geneva event. Their combination of anthracite high-tech carbon and pink gold makes them true standouts. At just 2.23 mm thick, the Automatic version sports the BVL 138 ultra-thin mechanical calibre movement, featuring a platinum miniature automatic disc with small seconds, a power reserve of 60 hours and waterproofing to a depth of 100 metres. Its forged carbon dial comes with gold-plated hands and hour makers. The more complex BVL 305 self-winding mechanical calibre of the Perpetual Calendar, meanwhile, is only slightly thicker at 2.75 mm and it likewise proudly shows a textured, anthracite carbon face with luxurious accents in rose gold.

Through its ultra-thin Octo Finissimo collection, Bulgari aims to create unique timepieces by employing techniques such as contrasting polishing or monochrome treatment on a variety of materials like stainless steel, gold and ceramics. Models are consistently striking with round bezels against octagonal surfaces.

Interestingly, and highlighting the significance attached to Geneva Watch Days, year-old brand Byrne released the Gyro Dial Zero in pink gold and its limited-edition set with diamonds. This updated version follows the original rotating-indices watch concept released at the same event last year, in which the dial changes every day on either the stroke of midnight or noon according to the whim of its wearer. This unique attribute occurs as the dial’s four cardinal indexes (at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock) pivot in a flash to reveal a different face. The rose gold-encased Zero offers a new stylish, pared-down beauty exposing the magnificent mechanism within.

By contrast, Girard-Perregaux, founded in 1791, is one of the oldest fine-watch manufactures still in operation and maintaining all the required horological skills in-house, it has more than 100 recorded patents. It displayed the Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech, the latest model in an ultra-modern collection that uses the best solutions in materials technology. Formed of a carbon/titanium composite in octagonal parts via the 8Tech method, the case creates a random structural pattern. Indeed, the whole watch is made from a combination of differently shaped components and materials playfully juxtaposed together, with its splendid swirl decoration adding further interest. The GP03300-1058 automatic movement can be spied through a smoked sapphire-crystal caseback.

Russian watchmaker and inventor Konstantin Chaykin, known for his unique timepieces and artistic creations, auctioned a selection of his amazing monster-face watches and their accompanying sketches at the event. These included the Smilodon, which takes its inspiration from the prehistoric sabre-toothed tiger and boasts some unique functions; the limited-edition Joker Five, which features a distinctive day of the week indicator; and the prototype of his latest Wristmon, a jovial and optimistic-looking character.

Ulysse Nardin brought out the new Blast Free Wheel Marquetry, a watch which showcases the aesthetic qualities of silicon aside from its undoubted technical specifications. Ergonomically strong with pronounced geometric lines, the 45mm timepiece has an escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicon and uses blades technology. Its ultra-glass box design reveals the avant-garde movement, with a flying tourbillon commanding attention at 6 o’clock. The white-gold case is satin- finished and polished and opened at back with sapphire glass. To top off the unconventional look of the piece, it comes with a distinctive blue matte and polished silicon marquetry dial. The backplate is matte silicon, too.

Another Geneva Watch Days highlight was the launch of two models by luxury watchmaker H. Moser & Cie: the minimalist Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack and the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack. Composed of super-dark carbon nanostructures, which absorb 99.965% of light that hit them, the Vantablack dials can claim to have the effect of a black hole, sucking in all light in mesmerising contrast with their red-gold cases.

Also Read: Retro Revolution: Old and new harmonise in contemporary re-editions with a vintage vibe

Wrist Pilot: High-fliers can reach for the skies with the latest heritage-inspired aviator watches

The concept of the aviation watches has a long and rich history, stretching back to the onset of the wristwatch just after the turn of the last century. A reliable pilot’s watch was considered a vital and necessary part of the navigational armoury for aviators in the early days of flight.

Louis Cartier is said to have created the first pilot’s watch – Santos de Cartier – in 1904 and in so doing gave famous aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont something he had longed for: the ability to tell the time whilst flying. Crucially, this allowed him to carry on manning the controls of his plane without having to look at his pocket watch – a revolutionary concept which meant that the rollout of the aviation watch and the wristwatch could be said to have gone hand in hand.

The modern Cartier Santos-Dumont timepiece continues to imitate its heritage and engineering detail. The latest iteration features a skeleton movement which includes a miniaturised functional oscillating weight in the shape of an aircraft that soars over the globe. The wingspan reminds of a Demoiselle, the plane designed by Santos-Dumont himself. Also evoking the elegant early 1904 model are a gold or steel case, visible screws, a beaded crown and a blue cabochon. The Santos-Dumont Skeleton comes in three metals headlined by the yellow gold and navy lacquer version in a prized limited edition.

pilot timepiece — Breitling Classic AVI Chronograph 42

Another luxury brand with a rich history in aviation watches, Breitling nods to the original 1953 Ref. 765 AVI Co-Pilot in its latest offerings. The Classic AVI collection uses a 42mm format moulded from the design codes established by the 46mm Super AVI, which itself was inspired by the pioneering Ref. 765 AVI. With the inclusion of a Breitling Calibre 23 chronograph movement, the Classic AVI Chronograph 42 is a lighter version of the Super model in response to customer requests and comes without the brawny GMT complications. It comes in colour schemes which pay homage to four legendary aircraft – the Mustang, the naval Corsair, the Warhawk and the Mosquito.

Patek Philippe also dips back in time – though only eight years to the model’s origins in this case – for the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Chronograph Ref. 5924G. The new Calatrava pilot’s watch comes with either a sunburst blue-grey or lacquered khaki green dial highlighted by white-gold applied numerals that are recessed and filled with luminescent coating. The skeletonised hand displays the home time while the solid hand indicates local time. Chronograph pushers are positioned at two and four o’clock, with enlarged correction push-pieces for local time at eight and 10 o’clock. Its white-gold case is water resistant to 30 metres and features a sapphire crystal case back, and the calfskin strap matches the dial – either grained navy blue or vintage-finish olive green with contrasting cream stitching.

aviation watches — IWC 388106 Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun

IWC has a long presence in the aviation sector, soaring back to the 1930s and 1940s, and is proud of its cockpit-instrument look. Essential characteristics of its modern aviator timepieces have remained loyal to the dial design and visual vibe of pre-Second World War models. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 features a green dial with luminescent qualities and 10-bar water-resistant properties (100 metres to non-divers). It has a matching green rubber strap and an 18-carat gold case with a diameter of 41 mm, making it suitable for slender wrists.

Zenith stated its early intention to be involved in the world of aviation when founder Georges Favre-Jacot saw the dawn of the aviation age and wanted his company to be part of it. It now offers a range of pilot’s watches including the Pilot Big Date Flyback, which boasts a black corrugated dial aid with large luminescent Arabic numerals, and the distinctive Pilot Type 20 Extra Special, distinguished by oversized Arabic numerals and powered by the EI Elite automatic manufacture movement. The Pilot Automatic is considered the template for Zenith’s new generation of pilot watches.

Also Read: Zenith Expands its Pilot and Defy Line with the Release of Seven New Watches at the Watches and Wonders 2023

Though a far cry from the precision ‘Time of Trip’ chronographs designed by Heuer and installed on airplane dashboards during the early years of aviation, the contemporary Tag Heuer Autavia still retains a classic feel. The Autavia COSC GMT pilot’s watch comes in steel with a blue sunray brushed dial and luminescent Super-Luminova hands and indexes.

Perhaps most notable within the Bremont collection of aviation models is the Bremont MB range, designed after ejection-seat manufacturer Martin-Baker requested they create a pilot’s watch. The timepiece had to withstand rigorous testing comparable to the ejection seats. The limited-edition MBI is reserved for flyers who have successfully ejected from an aircraft using one of the company’s seats – other versions (MBII and MBIII) are available to all enthusiasts.

Time To Go Green: Luxury watches with colour

Blue fascias were the timely tendency of 2020, but this year, it is verdant-fronted creations that have captured the imagination of haute-horology enthusiasts. Indeed, many high-end watch manufactures have favoured green as the primary colour of choice for their elegant wrist adornments. From minimalist creations to jaw-dropping, jewel-studded designs, we spotlight seven standouts that exemplify this latest trend.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968G

Kicking off our list is renowned Swiss luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe’s Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968G-010, the latest addition to its octagonal-shaped Aquanaut collection. The first model to feature a white gold case, its dial is burnished in an attractive khaki green with matching strap. Under the hood beats a Calibre CH28-520 C self-winding flyback chronograph, an ingenious mechanism that allows the user to time new events while the watch is still running, all with the push of a button at four o’clock. Water-resistant to 120m, it is also available with a midnight blue or black dial.

IWC Portofino Chronograph 39

The next entry comes courtesy of Schaffhausen-based IWC, whose Portofino Chronograph 39, as its name suggests, is 39mm in diameter and shows a sporty slenderness of just 12.7mm. It nevertheless retains a dressy appeal, thanks to a mirror-polished case and elegant alligator-leather strap. The green dial comes equipped with rhodium-plated hands, while a hacking seconds sub-dial in the bottom half of its fascia is balanced with a 30-minute scale at 12 o’clock. Powering it all is a Calibre 79350 movement that bequeaths a 44-hour power reserve to the watch.

Breitling Top Time Ford Mustang

Embodying a racing aesthetic, meanwhile, is Breitling’s Top Time Ford Mustang, inspired by the eponymous motor developed by legendary US automaker Caroll Shelby in 1964. Fitted with a self-winding Calibre 25 chronograph movement, its viridescent dial is emblazoned with the car’s logo and three contrasting black sub-dials, all ringed with a black tachymeter scale. In keeping with its historic inspiration, brown racing-themed leather straps complete the vintage appeal.

OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra

For a more minimalist design, a look at one of OMEGA’s slew of new Seamaster Aqua Terra creations wouldn’t go amiss. Among the ten 38mm models introduced this year, one comes with a dark-green dial and another with a sun-brushed light-green face. For this latest update, the marque has introduced a new small seconds sub-dial at six o’clock with a date aperture within – a first for the collection. This is pretty much the only overt ornamentation on its fascia, save for sleek hour markers, the brand’s logo and, of course, the requisite ‘Seamaster’ sign.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36

Delivering a tropical flourish for fashionistas is the latest Oyster Perpetual Datejust 36 from famed manufacture Rolex. Here, the dial is fronted by a gorgeous olive-green palm-frond motif, then enhanced by a chic Oystersteel case with a matching bracelet. One of a trio of 36mm models debuted by Rolex this year, it comes equipped with the new Calibre 3235 movement that churns out a robust 70-hour power reserve.

Chopard Happy Sport Golf Edition

Another green femme-focused timepiece takes the form of Chopard’s Happy Sport Golf Edition. Blending athleticism and gem-crafting with deft flair, its frosted emerald-esque face is punctuated with five bezel-set diamonds that float freely beneath its sapphire crystal cover. In a nod to the sport that inspired it, the stones are joined by a floating golf club and ball as well. Playful yet sophisticated, it offers a choice of two bezel designs – polished rose gold or diamond-studded.

Piaget Limelight Gala High Jewellery Black Opal

Finally, taking the top spot on our list is Piaget’s gorgeous Limelight Gala High Jewellery Black Opal. Its 36mm x 28mm dial is crafted from a rare Australia-sourced black opal, whose crystalline facets shift from green to blue as the light catches it. If that weren’t enough, the intriguingly seashell-shaped case is further adorned with a staggering 83 marquise-cut emeralds and 91 brilliant-cut diamonds running along the entirety of the bracelet. Unapologetically bold and attention-grabbing, it is the perfect amalgam of haute horology and high-end jewellery-making, and exemplifies the green hue that has so captivated watch lovers this year.

Symbols of success: must-have men’s accessories

A fine gentleman is defined not only by his well-manicured grooming and elegant attire, but also by essential accessories that he uses. Though often miniature in sizes, accessories are subtle statements that reflect a lot about a man’s personality, fashion sense and even wealth, making them essential elements. Here’s a short list of must-have accessories of a successful gentleman.

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Wristwatch

Any successful man knows that time well spent on productivity is a vital element of success. Watches have always been synonymous with style and wealth, but beyond the aesthetics of a fashionable watch, the vital importance of a quality timepiece lies in its reliability and functionality. The latest trend to hit the market are dive watches.

Image: Rolex Submariner / Omega Seamaster / Tudor Pelagos / Breitling Endurance Pro / Panerai Submersible GoldtechT

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Bracelet

At the moment, bracelets are among the most trendy men’s accessories. An elegant bracelet accentuates a debonaire gentleman whether he is in a casual or formal attire.

Image: Dunhill / Versace / Le Gramme

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Sunglasses

During sunny days, a pair of designer shades are essential. A pair that best suits the shape of a man is ideal. A pair of sunglasses not only protects the eyes from the harsh rays of the sun, but also helps a man project a cool and sassy image. Square sunglasses are the most popular in men’s style though vintage sunglasses offer a bolder and daring statement.

Image: Cartier / Gucci / Dunhill

essential accessories every successful man must have gafencu magazine men's style fashion dunhill biometric wallet — Image: Dunhill Biometric Wallet

Bluetooth Wallet

A man’s wallet not only reflects his wealth and style, it is also one of the most essential in daily life. A sharp departure from the usual practice of a wallet stacked with credit cards, paper bills and some business cards, high-tech Bluetooth wallets are now in vogue and displays affluence. This wallet type is also far more secure and high tech, often equipped with a fingerprint sensor and an alarm system activated it is several feet away from its owner’s mobile phone. Clearly, this high-tech feature avoids unwitting loss of vitally important items.

Image: Dunhill Biometric Wallet

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Cologne

A man’s smell reflects directly his style and personality. Cologne is an invisible appendage of the overall presentation of a respectable and refined gentleman. It even carries some wellness benefits that aromatherapy is known to provide.

Image: Jo Malone / Clive Christian / Creed / Tom Ford

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Leather Belt

Whether donning a formal, business or casual attire, one the must-have accessories is a leather belt. This belt type is durable, versatile, and can easily elevate the overall look of a well-dressed man.

Image: Hermes / Gucci / Valentino Garvani / Dunhill

Auto Winders: Check out these latest high-octane car-watch collaborations

Both cars and watches have long had a special place in the hearts of refined gentlemen of means, and with good reason. The two owe their origins to pressing needs for convenience and precision, with each now treasured as epitomising a true fusion of precision engineering and enduring elegance. Given their shared heritage and matching aspirational feel, car-watch partnerships were all but inevitable. Indeed, many such strategic car-watch brand alliances have proved fruitful and long-lived, while yielding some truly stunning designs…

In celebration of its three-decade collaboration with the Mille Miglia race – a 1,600km-long classic car rally held in Italy each year – Chopard has launched the Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition. Here, the requisite tachymetre bezel and chronograph pushers set the rallying tone, while its generous 44mm fascia allows for easy legibility. The self-winding movement, meanwhile, provides ultra-precise time measurements, which are said to be accurate to an eighth of a second. Limited to just 1,000 pieces, perforated leather straps – reminiscent of the texture of driving gloves – complete a truly vintage look.

Car-watch - Chopard's Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition — Chopard’s Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition

An equally grand race-inspired timepiece comes courtesy of Bremont, with its historic partnership with Jaguar, a fellow British brand, having culminated in the launch of the limited-edition Jaguar D-type. A knowing homage to Jaguar’s hugely successful D-type – the car that won the gruelling Le Mans 24 Hours race from 1955 to 1957 – the 300bHp of its original engine is given a knowing nod by the fact that just 300 pieces are to be produced. Set on blue racing calf-leather straps, the 43mm blue-dialled bi-compax timepiece features a tachymetre scale, an effective contrast with its brushed nickel sub-dials. Sporty yet sophisticated, its racing pedigree is more than apparent at even the most cursory of glances.

Car-watch - Bremont's Jaguar D-type — Bremont’s Jaguar D-type

Taking a similarly heritage-centric approach is Breitling’s Bentley-channelling Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition. Designed to celebrate the motoring marque’s 100th anniversary, the left side of the case bears the same Bentley engraving that graced the dashboard of the iconic 1929 Bentley Blower. With both the stainless steel and rose gold models featuring a white printed tachymetre scale on a unique brown elm burl dial, its classic appeal is undoubtable.

Car-watch - Breitling's Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition — Breitling’s Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition

A more contemporary approach, meanwhile, comes in the memorable form of the Classic Fusion Ferrari GT, the latest timepiece on offer from Hublot and Ferrari, the self-styled supercar marque. In place of the former’s traditionally angular designs, this flyback chronograph is the very epitome of aerodynamic curvature. Available in titanium, King Gold or 3D Carbon, the watch’s beautifully open-worked fascia proudly displays Ferrari’s famed prancing horse at 12 o’clock, while also highlighting its recessed Calibre UNICO HUB1280 movement. Hybrid black rubber-Schedoni leather straps and a convex case design round out its automotive appeal.

Car-watch - Hublot's Classic Fusion Ferrari GT — Hublot’s Classic Fusion Ferrari GT

In an unusual move, TAG Heuer and Aston Martin have taken the symbiotic nature of car-watch partnerships to a whole new level, with the former’s Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Aston Martin DBS Superleggera 2019 timepiece and the latter’s DBS Superleggera TAG Heuer Edition on offer as one all-inclusive car-watch package. More specifically, the purchase of any of the new sportscars – available in a limited edition of just 50 – will see the lucky owner also walk away with TAG’s latest chronogram. Obviously inspired by the car it namechecks, the marque’s all-new design includes several unambiguously DBS accents, notably its grille-motif hexagonal cut-out fascia and embossed leather straps, while a hint of red detailing adorns its otherwise all-black finish.

Car-watch - TAG Heuer's Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Aston Martin DBS Superleggera 2019 — TAG Heuer’s Carrera Calibre Heuer 02 Aston Martin DBS Superleggera 2019

Revving proceedings up several gears, avant-garde watchmaker Roger Dubuis has teamed with Lamborghini and tyre brand Pirelli to create its undeniably eclectic Excalibur One-off. Blending the expertise of the three partners in their individual areas of excellence – haute horology, adrenaline-driven performance and precision engineering – this truly superlative chronogram perfectly balances aggressive athleticism with aesthetic appeal. Its delightfully open-worked fascia, meanwhile, reveals its purpose-built RD 106SQ movement, as well as its double flying tourbillon and a jumping hours display at 12 o’clock – all structured to resemble the engine of the Lamborghini SC18 Alston supercar that provided the original inspiration.

Car-watch - Roger Dubuis' Excalibur One-off — Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur One-off

The most recent members of the car-watch collaborators club – renowned Swiss haute horology house Jacob & Co. and legendary hypercar company Bugatti – though, may just prove to be the most outré. The first fruit of this partnership – the Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition – is nothing short of overwhelming, in terms of both size and complexity. It comes with a decimal repeater as standard, as well as a racing-themed “fuel” power reserve indicator and stunningly intricate dual triple-axis sequential high-speed tourbillons. With each individual watch carrying a price tag of US$500,000, the exclusivity of this 39-piece release is heightened yet more by the fact that it is only purchasable by Bugatti owners.

Car-watch - Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition by Jacob & Co. — Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition by Jacob & Co.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Closing Time: We bid farewell to some of 2018’s most wonderful watches

From extraordinary extraterrestrial-oriented timepieces to the very nattiest nautical designs, 2018 has been quite a year in the world of high-end horology. With the nights rolling in and with many of us gradually growing befuddled at the thought of the festivities to come, what better than to take a timely trot through the final push of wonderful watches that made the Year of the Dog quite so great?

2018's final push of wonderful watches — *2018’s final push of wonderful watches*

With the worlds of marine exploration and fine watchmaking sharing a long and intertwined history, it’s perhaps unsurprising that the tail-end of 2018 saw several renowned chronograph creators once again opt for a maritime motif. Taking point in this timepiece tsunami, of course, was Omega with its updated and upsized (42mm) Seamaster Diver 300M seen as glad tidings for all.

Omega's Seamaster Diver 300M — *Omega’s Seamaster Diver 300M*

Coming with a Master Chronometer Calibre 8800 movement – one fashioned entirely from non-ferrous materials in a bid to insulate its precision mechanism from any adverse magnetic influences – as standard, it also features an enhanced helium escape valve design, ensuring that it will remain fully waterproof up to 50m down even should the valve open accidentally.

*Superocean Heritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown by Breitling*

Holding steady on our oceanic overview, the next maritime masterpiece came courtesy of never-less-than-breathtaking Breitling, with the all-new Superocean Heritage II Chronograph 44 Outerknown marking the marque’s first collaboration with Outerknown, the California-based sustainable outerwear manufacturer. In addition to its durable, eco-friendly straps, this unashamedly athletic timepiece features a striking DLC-coated black steel case housing a Breitling Calibre 13 mechanical movement. A deep blue dial, complete with Super-Luminova-coated hour and minute hands and a shock-resistant uni-directional bezel, round out its distinctive devil-may-care dive-watch design.

Tag Heuer's Aquaracer Carbon — *Tag Heuer’s Aquaracer Carbon*

Never one to be outdone, Tag Heuer’s own oceanic offering is equal parts H2O and 007, with its superspy stylings targetted more at a leisure-minded lagoon liquid luncher than a five-fathoms-down hardy ocean-bed explorer. Despite its aesthetic aspect, the watch – the Aquaracer Carbon – is still guaranteed to be water-resistant to a depth of 300m. With its black PVD-covered titanium case, carbon fibre bezel, fetching ‘carbon effect’ fascia and black textile straps, this is a watch to flaunt rather than to float about with.

In a timely reminder that all things maritime are not a solely male preserve, Chopard, meanwhile, fetchingly fused the very finest attributes of high-end jewellery and haute horology to fashion the limited-edition Happy Fish. With its delightfully dippy designation, its Happy Diamonds twirl atop an elegant deep blue mother-of-pearl dial, bedecked with a coruscating coral fish motif, making this a very savourable slice of ladylike luxury.

Patek Philippe's Twenty~4 Automatic — *Patek Philippe’s Twenty~4 Automatic*

Another traditionally macho marque looking to pique the interest of the burgeoning number of women watch collectors is Patek Philippe, with the latest expression of its iconic Twenty~4 model – the all-new Twenty~4 Automatic – said to be the first-ever diamond-set steel model manufactured with the madame in mind. In another first, this classic 36mm timepiece comes fitted with a self-winding movement, a sweeping second hand and a dominant date aperture at 6 o’clock. With a staggering 208 Top Wesselton Pure diamonds gracing its bezel and lugs, this is one clear statement accessory.

*Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days by IWC*

For the more manly collectors on the lookout for a classic design, the latest iteration of IWC’s Portofino Hand-Wound Eight Days surely merits serious consideration. For this decidedly regal revamp, the signature Portofino look has been refreshed with a slate grey fascia, which pairs compellingly with the brand’s debuting grey-suede straps. Undoubtedly the biggest plus though is its 59210 calibre movement, which twinkles enticingly beneath the transparent sapphire crystal caseback even as it delivers pin-point precision for up to eight days.

*Parrot Minute Repeater pocket watch by Jaquet Droz*

For a truly vintage look, though, discerning wanters of wonderful watches should check out Jaquet Droz’s new Parrot Minute Repeater. Exquisitely crafted in commemoration of the watchmaker’s 280th anniversary, this one-of-a-kind adornment boasts the brand’s signature Bird Repeater automaton in the form of gloriously-bejewelled macaws perched on its cover, both of which chirp and chime while winding. Blending time-honoured horological artisanship, including enamel inlaying and exquisite gemwork, with cutting-edge precision engineering, this peerless package has a US$1 million price tag – irresistible, though, if you want to end the year in true style.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Wholly watchable: Four brilliant watches this season

Any haute horology enthusiast looking to expand their collection should perhaps give Swiss watchmaker Breitling’s latest wrist candy, the Navitimer Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Boutique Edition, a once-over. The first design to spawn from its partnership with online men’s style portal MR PORTER, this eye-catching timepiece boasts a sleek silver fascia ringed by an anthracite contrast chronograph. Fitted with an in-house calibre B01 movement, it’s limited to only 1,000 pieces, making this an almost instant collector’s item. www.breitling.com

Navitimer Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 Limited Edition

Swiss watchmaker Hublot celebrates the Mid-Autumn Festival with four brightly coloured watches poetically called the Spirit of Big Bang collection. The open real estate of the watches reveal the HUB1770 hand-wound skeleton movement, charmingly enhanced by a quartz dial. The entire lunar cycle has been captured within the surface of these timepieces, thanks to two alternating moons visible through a semi-transparent, sand-blasted disc. A small seconds sub-dial sits pretty at 9 o’clock, with a large date display on a double analogue disc perfectly positioned between 12 o’clock and 3 o’clock accentuating its impression of depth and astronomy. www.hublot.com

Spirit of Big Bang Moonphase King – in pink

Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has added another stellar watch to its Fiftysix collection – the Fiftysix Tourbillon. Just 6mm thick and equipped with a 22- carat gold peripheral rotor, the movement is entirely visible thanks to a transparent caseback. According to the makers, apparently the tourbillon alone demanded more than 12 hours of meticulous work, thanks to its minute hand-crafted detailing. Each element of its distinctive design is a knowing nod to the original iconic Fiftysix model created in 1956. www.vacheron-constantin.com

French haute jewellery house Chaumet‘s latest offering to haute horology comes in the form of three eye-catching models of jumping hours Complications Créatives watches designed by Kenyan artist Evans Mbugua. Set in white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds, each of the watches evokes a lush picture of Africa. With giraffes, crocodiles, frogs, etc adorning the surface of the watches – each handcrafted and hand-engraved – the miniature real estate of the timepieces transforms us to a primitive world. www.chaumet.com

Tresors dAfrique – Éspiegleries – in blue

Material World: Watchmakers turn to cutting-edge materials for new creations

Quill & Pad co-founder Ian Skellern explores the growing utilisation of exotic materials in crafting high-end timepieces and selects seven medallists of outstanding merit.

While we are still waiting for the 21st century to deliver on long-promised flying cars and paperless offices, the world of haute horlogerie is experiencing something of a tech evolution. Innovative and exotic materials are increasingly being used to craft cases, dials and even movements, much to the delight of watch enthusiasts who’ve grown tired of the same old, same old.

Take Italian jewellery powerhouse Bulgari for example. The brand is perhaps best known for ultra-thin watches – and holds world records in this category – but the masculine Octo Retro Maserati models are more casual and suitable for everyday wear. While a more luxurious pink gold Maserati GranLusso model exists, it’s the GranSport version that stands out – not for its steel case but for its black diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating. DLC is a hard-wearing and scratch-resistant treatment that, together with the black dial, contrasts nicely with the highly legible retrograde minutes and jumping hours.

Next to diamonds, the second hardest material is scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which is why it takes Hublot weeks to sculpt the complex case parts for its Big Bang Unico Sapphire − including the case band, bezel and caseback − from solid blocks of sapphire crystal.

Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, says the transparent case “reveals the soul of the watch – the Unico movement – and an absolute transparency extending to the strap, which has become invisible”.

“Beyond the symbolism and the play on words, the Big Bang is laying itself bare. It has nothing to hide and everything to show,” he says.

While the fine watchmaking category usually encompasses mechanical wristwatches, when it comes to high-precision mechanical movements, quartz-regulated watches cannot be beat. Breitling’s Chronospace Evo B60 features a SuperQuartz oscillator that is more than 10 times as accurate as standard quartz, boasting accuracy within 10 seconds per year (compared to 15 seconds per month).

The Evo B60 is a sporty flyback chronograph that’s capable of measuring from one-tenth of a second to 24 hours. But what qualifies the B60 for this list is its lightweight but strong grade 5 titanium case, which despite its generous 43mm size feels quite comfortable on the wrist.

Montblanc’s 1858 Collection, meanwhile, looks to history for inspiration. Taking a page from the famous Minerva chronographs of the 1930s, what makes the Automatic Dual Time model so interesting isn’t just its useful second time zone function, but also its bi-metal steel/bronze case.

Bronze is a traditional alloy made from copper and tin that develops a rich patina (tarnish) in open air, which may also turn skin green. To avoid this, Montblanc offers a caseback in steel, while the bezel and crown are forged from beautiful bronze.

With bronze covered, we work our way up the podium to gold. Some may question what’s so innovative about Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Extra Thin in yellow gold – one of the most traditional gold alloys.

Yellow gold (3N shade) was once the most popular precious metal alloy for watch cases, but the warmer pink gold (4N) and red gold (5N) came into fashion over a decade ago, causing yellow gold watches to virtually disappear. With its striking blue dial complementing the case, the Royal Oak Extra Thin reminds us why yellow gold was so popular in the first place.

When it comes to exotic materials, few can hold a candle to the C-SMC carbon case of Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur-Aventador S, made in collaboration with Lamborghini Squadra Corse. We reluctantly gloss over the skeleton movement (modelled on the engine of the Lamborghini Aventador) with its deadbeat seconds and twin 90-degree opposed balances linked via differential, each beating at 4Hz for higher precision, to focus on the carbon fibre case.

While carbon fibre is a relatively new material in the luxury watch world, Lamborghini has decades of experience using it in motor racing, and it shows. The watch’s impressively-sized 45mm case is remarkably lightweight.

Titanium, meanwhile – especially grade 5 titanium – is considered by many to be the best when it comes to high-tech materials and alloys, thanks to its widespread use in aerospace, aviation and medical devices. However, it’s not what you use but how you use it that counts, and titanium has rarely looked better than it does on F.P. Journe’s Octa Sport Titane. Some may baulk at wearing such a beautiful watch for playing sports, but the lightness of the titanium case and aluminium movement make the combination a sheer pleasure.

With the watch industry sharing technology with rockets and super sports cars, the results are bound to break new ground in a discipline often considered traditionalist. And as long as we continue to live in a material world, it’s only fitting that our watches rise to the occasion, serving as sterling examples of man’s mastery of the elements.

Text: Ian Skellern

Watch out for Breitling’s recently launched Colt Skyracer

Watchmaker Breitling is soaring to new heights with the recent launch of its Colt Skyracer, a mix of business and style rolled into one.

Not only does the name Colt Skyracer sound dynamic and punchy, but it also looks good. The Swiss watchmaker hasn’t cut any corners in their effort to create an affordable watch that offers so much and comes in a slick black colour.

Named after Breitling’s aerobatic racing plane, the Colt Skyracer has a thermocompensated calibre 74 SuperQuartz movement, a battery that lasts eight years and a dial that screams simplicity and prestige.

In addition to this, it is also water-resistant up to 100 metres and boasts an AR-coated domed sapphire crystal over the dial.

To ensure the watch stands the test of time, it is made of Breitlight, a futuristic material that is over three times lighter than titanium and an incredible six times lighter than steel. It is also extremely resistant to scratches, traction and corrosion.

With 24-hour military time, a volcano black dial and a strap you can use as a ruler, aviation and military enthusiasts will fall in love with this watch’s bad boy look and stylish colour scheme.

Also, only costing $2,000 (HK$15,521), this watch is not on the expensive end of the spectrum, which is fairly rare for new releases from high-end watchmakers with as much grace and prominence as Breitling.