Tag: Berluti
Shod’s Law
Putting your best foot forward in either your business or personal life is the key to success and, these days, beautiful footwear isn’t something solely reserved for the ladies. Gentlemen, too, are free to try on several pairs of nigh-perfect must-have luxury shoes in order to keep in step with the latest trends.
The truth is that modern society feeds off the aesthetic. The better dressed you are, the better treatment, service and respect you’ll command from everyone you encounter. Even though this might, at first glance, seem a little superficial, it has been the way of the world for centuries. Long ago, only royalty and the aristocracy could afford the very latest in fashionable footwear. Today, with a little hard work and a following wind, every man can enjoy the finer things in life.
It was Mark Twain who once famously said: “Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.” And this has never been truer. Dressing to impress, though, isn’t just about the clothes you wear. It’s also about the footwear you favour.
Indeed, a great pair of shoes can make your outfit really pop. In short, they can take an ordinary look and make it extraordinary. Beyond this, though, they empower you as a person. It was perhaps put best by Christian Louboutin, the shoemaker best known for his iconic red soles, when he said: “Shoes transform your body language and attitude. They lif t you physically and emotionally.”
Buying just the right luxury shoes, though, requires a great deal of homework. Beyond jus t being an expression of your personal taste and status, they are the only things in your wardrobe that absolutely have to be supremely comfortable. After all, who would really wish to walk a million miles in someone else’s shoes if blisters appeared after the first five?
The last word on the subject, though, really has to go to one of the greatest living examples of The American Dream – Oprah Winfrey, the US TV host and author – when she said: “I still have my feet on the ground, I just wear better shoes”
Of course, many people will already be familiar with the big names in fashion footwear – the Gucci’s and the Prada’s. There are, however, many other luxury brands that make excellent and – dare it be said? – even more desirable ways to shod yourself. With a little bit of research, you can find some amazing shoes from famous designers that will put you firmly one step ahead of the crowd.
John Lobb is a British company with a long history of hand-crafting high quality men’s shoes. Striding ahead of the competition for 170 years, the company has become the goto luxury shoe brand for many of the world’s most discerning men. The brand’s client list features a host of past and present A-listers, including Frank Sinatra, Aristotle Onassis and Prince Charles.
“Dressing to impress, isn’t just about the clothes you wear. It’s about the footwear you favour”
All of their shoes are bespoke designs and all are handmade to custom specifications. The company’s 2016 Autumn/Winter collection is so toe-tantalising that it’s hard to pick out just one pair for your delectation. Its Desert Boots, though, are just beautiful and so versatile that they could easily become a staple of anybody’s wardrobe.
Wear them on casual days with jeans and a tee or dress them up for an edgier look with some slim fit trousers and a tailored shirt. Their deep brown hue will literally go with every color and they’re built to last, meaning you’ll get good use from them for years to come. Priced at just under US$500, you might just be tempted to buy them in pretty much every available colour.
If you’re planning a summer getaway to a swanky European resort this year, then you’ll need something stylish to slip into after you’ve sloshed out of the pool. In that case, Tod’s new Suede Slipons are sure to provide you with buckets of comfort and spades of Club Tropicana cool.
Perfect for those who love to lounge around the pool watching the world go by, these slip-ons provide for a truly laid-back look. Available in an assortment of colours, they can easily be matched with even the most outré of summer wardrobes. The range boasts super-comfortable elastic side panels and come stamped with the designer’s iconic monogram.
The handcrafted woven rope trim on the bottom of the slip-ons give them a more casual feel, while Tod’s iconic rubber outsole – complete with embossed pebbles – will remind everyone that you do indeed know your fashion. Overall, they’re a welcome variation on Tod’s iconic driving shoes, and a more modern version of the classic Espadrille, only with a far more masculine vibe than George Michael could have ever hoped pull off.
Any true gentleman’s shoe collection should always include at least one sturdy pair of boots, indispensable when it comes to handling life’s more unexpected adventures. It could be that Church’s Caldecott boot is just what you need. The world famous shoemaker is well known for its high quality footwear, its expert craftsmanship and its attention to detail.
Such boots will certainly give your wardrobe a chic edge with their ruggedly refined suede or leather looks and classic brogue detailing. By hijacking the style of an Oxford shoe and reinventing it in a boot form, Church has created a timeless traditional finish, giving you the best of two looks in one shoe. Their rounded toes and chunky low heels make them comfortable to wear, while they remain versatile enough to meet any challenge – from office power games to partying into the wee small hours.
“A true gentleman’s shoe collection should always include at least one sturdy pair of boots”
For a more relaxed look, of course, there is always Saint Laurent’s range of Paris sneakers. Under the creative direction of Hedi Slimane, the brand’s Head Coach, the renowned Parisian fashion house is now soaring to new heights.
The brand has now redefined the luxury sneaker market with its range of low and high-top sneakers, all available in a variety of colours. Its SL/10H Signature Court Classic High Top Sneaker in black and red leather, though, remains the star player in its squad.
Should you wish to slam-dunk your style credentials and be the envy of your homies, A true gentleman’s shoe collection should always include at least one sturdy pair of boots this high-top sneaker sports the signature Saint Laurent embossed, padded ankle, wide-side stripe and contrasting coloured sole for that big statement look. If red isn’t your colour, you can opt for blue or black. And, if a high top is too big a jump, you could always go with the low top version in the same colour combo.
Wearing them is simple, as sneakers go with just about everything you already own. Dress them up with some formal jeans, a button-down shirt and a blazer or wear them with casual clothes on a sunny Saturday outing for that laid-back, yet luxuriant, look.
Who would have thought that Michael Jackson’s legendary loafers, the shoes that powered his groundbreaking Moonwalk, owed a huge debt of thanks to Norwegian Farmers? In fact, all modern loafers are derived from the style of traditional Norwegian moccasins, a design conceit was first spotted and popularised by American Esquire magazine in the 1930s.
As Jacko himself once said, if you want to make the world a better place, take a look at yourself and make a change… possibly into a pair of Berluti Andy Leather Loafers. In its trademark Tobacco colour, an intoxicating mix of brown and tan, these loafers positively embody comfort and elegance.
Berluti specializes in menswear, blending expertise with tradition and modernity, with its Andy Loafers proving a fusion of all three. The brand was founded in Paris in 1895 and, today, it is owned by the LVMH group. Led by Creative Director, Alessandro Satori, the fashion house has continued to create coveted, readyto- wear pieces for the sartorially astute gentlemen.
A case in point, the Andy loafer is made in Italy and features hand-stitching around the top of the shoe, with a traditional stacked f lat heel and apron toe completing that classic loafer look. The strap across the vamp and leather lining further underline t he br a nd’s c ommi tment t o craftsmanship. Even at US$2,130 a pair, they make a fine addition to your wardrobe and one you’ll never regret.
If you simply have to have footwear as singular and memorable as your high performance luxury car, then take a look at Salvatore Ferragamo’s Custom Parigi Driving Shoes. These Parigi pedal pushers are 100 percent bespoke, entirely made to your own specifications.
Salvatore Ferragamo is, of course, a staple of the menswear fashion world. A native of Naples, in 1927, Ferragamo moved to California to become a shoemaker, founding a hugely reputable brand in the process. Today, the company is still familyowned and has branched out into handbags, fragrances and women’s shoes, as well as retaining its specialism in menswear.
Its made-to-order driving shoes are sexy, practical and available in a myriad of materials and colour choices. A bit like specifying a new Bentley to your own taste, everything on the shoe is fully customisable, right down to the colour of the metallic hardware.
You can choose from either suede, calfskin leather, crocodile or full-quill ostrich. With 14 different color options, ranging from classic black or tan to bold red and green, you can choose an option that will best match your beloved automobile. Hardware colors include palladio (a dark grey/ taupe), light palladio (a lighter gray) and bright gold, allowing you to mix and match to your heart’s desire. Each driving shoe is hand-cut, hand-stitched and handmade by Italian craftsmen, so you’ll own a shoe wholly like no-one else’s. The Parigi also features a rubber sole and heel guard for added comfort, as well as precision control at the heel. Depending on how you customize them, each pair can cost anything from US$750 all the way up to US$2,400.
And there you have it. A few luxury footwear choices that will up your style game and impress the world. Now all that’s left to do is to find your sole trader of choice.
Pride of the Fall
The long nights are rolling in and there’s just a hint in the air that temperatures are already starting to drop. It’s time to commit your summer look to the deeper recesses of your closet and reinvent yourself for the cooler seasons to come. Thankfully, the way has been prepared. The world’s biggest designer fashion brands have readied their closing clothing collections of 2016, outfits to augment your autumn and to help you weather the worst that winter has to offer. Whether your personal style tends to the more conservative or even if you favour the more outré stylings of the ostentatious end of the haute couture market, you will find something in the following pages that you will do with due delight. From the chic to the sheltering, from the off-the-peg to the off-the-wall, your look is just waiting to be found. For the man about town, there is nothing worse than sporting Last Year’s Thing. You are, after all, most indubitably, a Man for All Seasons.
BERLUTI BOSS BOTTEGA VENETA BRIONI BURBERRY CANALI CORNELIANI DIOR HOMME DOLCE & GABBANA DUNHILL ETRO GIEVES & HAWKES LANVIN MICHAEL KORS PAUL SMITH ROBERTO CAVALLI SALVATORE FERRAGAMO TRUSSARDI VALENTINO VERSACE ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
Berluti
This collection is all about silhouettes; outlines that are very long and lean – elegant and elevated. Tailored pieces are worn with sweaters; double-breasted sets help to accentuate the silhouette. Fabrics are key, from the softest cashmere and needle-punched wool checks to cotton/linen velvet and heavy rubber. Clearly, Tomas Maier (Creative Director) is always mindful of materials and the way they are best combined. Accessories include a near weightless tote in the softest matte calfskin that can be sealed with a zip. Document holders are in crocodile leather, ID bracelets come in heavy silver, while round sunglasses are colour-tinted. There are no frills, nothing ostentatious. While the collection is discrete, it still exudes an aura of magnificence.
Boss
BOSS Menswear for Fall/Winter 2016 presents a juxtaposition of shiny and matte, textured and smooth. Brushed textures are paired with neoprene; wool contrasts with rubberized finishes. Clean cuts and sharp silhouettes are the signature, and balance is key to the collection. Sharp tailoring is completed with clean sneakers or a backpack. Craftsmanship is also key to the soft, tailored coats made from double cashmere. The handmade construction results in garments that are cleanly finished and super light. Full monochrome looks feature a pop of yellow, rich red or bright blue. Water-resistant jackets are crafted from bonded cotton. Each piece is made in Germany, and pays tribute to master craftsmanship. This season’s message is clear; precise, masculine and sartorial.
Bottega Veneta
This collection is all about silhouettes; outlines that are very long and lean – elegant and elevated. Tailored pieces are worn with sweaters; double-breasted sets help to accentuate the silhouette. Fabrics are key, from the softest cashmere and needle-punched wool checks to cotton/linen velvet and heavy rubber. Clearly, Tomas Maier (Creative Director) is always mindful of materials and the way they are best combined. Accessories include a near weightless tote in the softest matte calfskin that can be sealed with a zip. Document holders are in crocodile leather, ID bracelets come in heavy silver, while round sunglasses are colour-tinted. There are no frills, nothing ostentatious. While the collection is discrete, it still exudes an aura of magnificence.
BRIONI
Brioni’s first collection with Creative Director Justin O’Shea at the helm, recently debuted to much aplomb at the Paris Haute Couture fashion week. The “Paris One” collection pays tribute to the brand’s handmade prêt-à-couture heritage while also marking a new emphasis on what they call “the Brioni lifestyle”. The collection presents soft velvet, leather and patterned shirts and ties in glowing shades of navy, forest green, charcoal and black. Particularly striking were Brioni’s classic three-piece suit lines and how they appeared to be sculpted to the body while the extraordinary use of monochrome colours were another highlight on the catwalk. Brioni once again playfully presents diversity in formalism.
Burberry Prorsum
The “Something Old, Something New, Something Borrowed, Something Blue,” collection was revealed at the custom-built venue in London’s Kensington Gardens. The collection was a celebration of the unification of the brand’s different ready to wear labels and styles, while British singer-songwriter, Benjamin Clementine, performed live from the centre of the venue. The collection celebrates outerwear shapes redefined for relaxed weekends, including; topcoats, duffle coats, military coats and parkas in a combination of Burberry colours; navy, black, claret, purple, camel, mustard and honey. The collection also introduces a new bag, The Satchel, alongside new shoe designs; The Driver and The Derby. In acknowledgment of the sad news of David Bowie’s passing, several of the models wore glitter eye makeup in honour of the fallen star.
CANALI
For Fall/Winter 2016-17, Canali presents a collection that is an exercise in equilibrium, one in which contrasts take centre stage. A range of checks in varying dimensions appear in suits, pants and outerwear. Silhouettes tend to follow the body’s natural contours while sleeves, pant legs, collars and lapels slim down on traditional tailoring. Voluminous coats conceal an unexpectedly lightweight air, thanks to extremely soft wool and alpaca blends. Wool features prominently throughout the rest of the collection in heavy gabardines for suits, jackets, pants, coats and sportswear. The palette takes on a shadowy and industrial air. Belts are integrated via oversized loops directly into pants and coats. Once again Canali renews its style with a meticulous attention to detail and the use of premium fabrics.
CORNELIANI
For A/W 2016 the Corneliani man assembles his look by looking to the fashion of the 1940s. The centre of gravity for trousers and jackets are considerably higher; shoulders are wider, as are waists to a lesser degree and lapels. The retro feel comes courtesy of crocheted details on the waistcoats to micro-geometric effects. The colours reflect classic elegance in caramel, brown and tobacco coloured suits, peacock green and lead grey jackets. Mid-length cashmere coats are oversized and designed to be tied at the waist. The stiff, textured feel of post-Second-World-War fashion is hinted at subtly in the contours of the designs, which break away from the body to restore a sense of independent strength in fashion, all with a whisper of nostalgia.
DOLCE & GABBANA
Dolce & Gabbana’a Men’s Fall/Winter 2016-2017 collection is a declaration of love for Italy and its culture, inspired by the iconic “Spaghetti Western” movies directed by Sergio Leone. The scores composed for these movies provided the soundtrack for the fashion show while 79 male models, nearly all of Italian descent, walked down the catwalk in line, in impeccably tailored Dolce & Gabbana creations. It is clear that for Mr Dolce and Mr Gabbana it continues to be important to always convey a story through their collections, and to create and present clothes with a heartwarming soul. The BIG FINALE playfully took the form of pyjamas paired with jackets and embroidered knits.
DIOR HOMME
“How does an individual grow and morph into his present self without nostalgia?” This is the question, Kris Van Assche (Creative Director) posed for Dior Homme’s A/W 2016 collection. In “Ritual Show Square”, lit by stark red neon to the sound of electronic music the collection was presented in a palette of black, red and white. Silhouttes appeared in a combination of exaggerated volumes and shapes. The Oxford bags could be seen to have been transformed into voluminous ‘WORKWEAR”, with couture techniques used to almost disruptive effect, with Dior’s flora prints presenting a symbol of provocation. There is a sense of celebration and rebellion evident throughout this sublime collection.
DUNHILL
This season Dunhill presents the finest traditions of the English gentleman. Protective, hand-engineered pieces, warm and durable: leather coats lined in rich shearing; driving blousons in British racing green; a leather driving topcoat in chestnut goatskin bonded with cashmere are directly inspired by the Dunhill archive. Knitwear is in luxurious Scottish cashmere, Aran patterned and traditionally cable stitched. Sweaters have a long-tail stripe; Jeans are cut from specially-woven hardwearing Japanese selvedge denim. These robust pieces are teamed with polka-dot accessories such as fine wool silk scarves and big, blanket-heavy tartan scarves, traditionally woven in Scotland. Warm, earthy ochre colours contrast with cool blues.
ETRO
A call back to nature echoes Etro’s roots with its latest Fall-Winter’16 launch that features a selection of supremely crafted cashmeres, fuzzy mohair wools, glowing jacquards and silky wools. Without a tie in sight, classic pieces are shaken up with jacket trims appearing subtly tattered and leaf patterns gently printed over plaids. Pattern building is evident in this new look with traces of shaggy jacquard coats or cashmere wool jackets paired with dandy shades of purple, polenta or green suede pants. Mismatched materials lining up against one another complete the look and helps mirror the essence of nature “wherein lies a universe of possibilitiy and the opportunity to disconnect from the world at large and escape into the unknown”.
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO
A pair of Andy Wahol paint-splattered, Ferragamo Oxfords heralded the starting point for creative director, Massimilano Giornetti and this season’s Autumn/Winter 2016 collection. The Oxford shoes’ mix of artistic splashes of paint with the classic styling transforms the whole outfit, oozing character, emotion and depth. The mismatching and clashes are offset by sharply tailored single and double-breasted suits. The winter Macintosh is presented here in pure white, a statement piece in itself. The collection was designed to be assembled, deconstructed and personalized according to each man’s individual identity, lifestyle, needs and desire celebrating nuance as a statement of freedom from the increasingly homogenous world in which we live.
GIEVES & HAWKES
Gieves & Hawkes go casual this season with their latest pieces that are ideal for country house parties or exploring the streets of a foreign city. The foliate country jacquard in bronze comes in a relaxed double-breasted jacket worn with a cashmere/silk polo neck and black wool dress pants that chracterises the signature look in this season’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection. Reflecting the adventurous spirit that lies within the brand, the oversized cable-knit scarf worn with tailored style clothing further enhances the sporty country look that defines the collection. The richly textured knits in basket weave and twist-cable are a layering staple and makes an appearance in this collection worn under tailored sports coats.
HERMÉS
It’s all about the detailing and popping of colours this season with the new collection featuring creative pieces which has got detailing to a T. The khaki glazed calfskin parka jacket thrown on top of the grey flannel cashmere V-neck pullover and paired with a raspberry coloured narrow straight trousers echoes colour vibrations on all levels.l In addition the Etrivière belt in red H Hunter cow skin helps break down the colour blocking.
LANVIN
To mark his 10 years as the men’s wear director at Lanvin, Lucas Ossendrijver has chosen to go beyond a mere retrospective and look to the very heart of his craft. With visibly heavy stitches, this collection is all about the detailing. From the delicate thread that hangs from one side of the sleeve, to the structure of a long scarf with a fringe formed by hanging ribbons he formulates the notion of surprise and highlights the central idea of craftsmanship, symbolically incorporating the tools of the trade itself with pendants and key rings. This wealth of detail also reflects a true sensuality, a kind of nonchalant and comfortable elegance, with generous volumes, wide trousers and fine constructions of merino wool.
MICHAEL KORS
This Fall Winter 2016/17 collection is all about embracing change and facing challenges head-on, clearly evident from the collection is Michael Kors’ focus on performance wear this fall. From the city to the slopes, the relaxed unstructured suiting is made for comfort above all else. This collection is perfect for people who enjoy different outfits for every occasion in their life, after all who doesn’t want to look ultra chic every minute? You will feel bundled up yet still practical with fabrics such as high performance wools in a mix of neutral greys, brown and black. Aimed to suit the individual that lives by the “straight” luxurious 24/7 lifestyle. Streamlined leather accessories include backpacks and duffels paired with the infamous city hiking boot.
PAUL SMITH
For Autumn/Winter 2016, Paul Smith embraces the past exploring some of his signature designs with stripes, prints and unique tailoring. Embracing the free spirit of the late-60s and early-70s, stripes are woven into cashmere knitwear. Getting creative with dinosaur prints appearing on blue flowing shirts peeping from underneath digitally-printed peaches on bomber jackets is a clear reference to Paul’s pioneering use of photo-printing techniques. The focus this year is on outerwear, with bold long stripes symbolising Paul’s longstanding passion with cycling where shades of green and peach are reminiscent of the vividly coloured knitted jerseys worn by his sporting heroes.
ROBERTO CAVALLI
Peter Dundas is Cavalli’s new Creative Director who channels a different direction for Roberto Cavalli this season playfully mixing casual and tailored elements, juxtaposing the precious and the practical for the twenty-first century gentleman. Infused with elements of the late sixties and early seventies, the Fall/Winter 2016 Cavalli man is presented as a rock icon and his masculinity made ever more potent by the touches of femininity in his attire. Cavalli’s big cat prints are once more in abundance, joined by trompe-l’oeil kimono embroideries and foulard silks cut into fluid lounging pyjama styles. The bitter chocolate and rust, dusty rose, sepia and tobacco colours are embedded with jewel tones: amethyst, emerald and ruby and help set a Bohemian mood.
TRUSSARDI
This season Trussardi gathers musicians and rockers and presents a collection with an all-pervasive ’70s rock mood – a carefree, snarling, rebellious mood. The collection appears pulled together from disparate, everyday items – corduroy and tweed jackets; silk shirts with matching ties; a subdued palette of blues, greys, and earthenware tones of sepia and terracotta. While fast and loose it still retains an aspirational vibe, albeit for men who aspire to look cool. Collection highlights include a scarlet leather jacket with bonded wool interior and a lush clay-red shearing with an intarsia of oversize lumberjack check in calf. Luxurious and undeniably cool this collection is ideal for anyone who wishes to make a lasting impression.
VALENTINO
Undertaking an aesthetic exploration of empirical authenticity in their A/W 2016 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s new pieces blend an outdoor spirit with edgy, punk vibes, with Pacific Northwest traces, tribal embellishments as well as beat and bohemian exoticism. Hypnotic geometric Navaho patterns spread over jackets; checks multiply over tailored suits while studs embellish heavy winter outerwear. The recurring comparison between open nature and free elements emerges on waxed camping jackets and slim overcoats with camouflage patterns. Jackets, coats and overcoats are redefined through exquisite workmanship that combines a healthy respect for tradition and the freedom of reinterpreting it.
VERSACE
Welcome to the universe of Versace, where a wardrobe from the celestial heavens has been created for this A/W 2016. Fibre optic tracksuits are the futuristic trend that people are screaming for this season, whether its merino wool zip-ups with a zigzag at the neck or drawstring track pants enriched with embellishments. An iconic Versace astrological print is reworked and revitalized, while a star map Medusa print has been created and looks perfect on white jeans. Other highlights include tech cycling boots, which look like they might propel you into the future. Donatella Versace explains, the collection is about the “perfect representation of the ambitious man that is real, bold and totally connected with the future.”
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
In an era where anything goes, Stefano Pilati tones things down with his latest Fall Winter 2016/17 collection by making the act of embellishment a “classic”. An exceptional wardrobe ruled by fearless style with hints of masculinity fused into the lushness of the fabrics that echoes “Haute Couture” incorporating depths of subtlety in an effortless and oh so “Zegna-way”. Each piece of clothing is heavily embellished with three dimensional hand embroideries sourced only from the finest Italian craftsfolk including the woven patchwork of jacquard patterns that stems from the super fine Lanificio Zegna wools. A truly authentic couture collection, where the clothes themselves deliver the essence of an intuitive elegance unregulated in its formality.
