Wake up & Makeup: Beauty essentials for a dazzling party look

Putting on the perfect, full party face can be daunting, especially as today’s consumers are spoiled for choice by countless, tempting products on the market. But never fear, for here’s our step-by-step guide to Instagram-worthy posing. Appearing your absolute best, you can look back on the special moments with pride and joy – after all, Christmas and New Year come only once a year. 

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Start with a clean, clear canvas courtesy of French luxury house Givenchy’s colour-correcting Prisme Primer. Settling gently on the skin with a smooth matte finish, it evens out the complexion while fortifying the dermis with SPF 20 and a vitamin- and anti-oxidant-rich formula. 

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Next, blend in Studio Skin 15 Hour Wear Hydrating Foundation by Smashbox. The film set-inspired brand based in Culver City, California is known for primers and foundations that give skin an almost airbrush effect. This liquid formula delivers a lightweight, medium-to-full, buildable coverage that is sweat-resistant and stays put under the heat of the party lights.

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For a flawless surface to welcome the colours to come, what better name to help you glam up than makeup artist Natasha Moor? Simply apply her Secret Perfector Concealer on any blemish or visible imperfection. Gliding on this medium-to-full coverage stick concealer is as smooth as butter, thanks to a curved point design that gives you total flexibility and control during application.  

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Follow this with Contour Sculpting Powder from the bag of another star makeup artist, Natasha Denona. It’s just the ticket to give your complexion that natural, softly contoured look. Apply the powder lightly in the hollows of the cheeks, on and under the jaw line, and on the temples. It adds depth and subtly defines the cheekbones for an overall slimming effect.

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Highlight your features with a bright, dewy glow. Placing the attention to the T-zone: forehead, cheekbones, inner eye area, bridge of the nose, chin and cupid’s bow all deserve to be emphasised. Make them prominent with tri-colour palette Le Cushion Encre De Peau Luminous Highlighter by French luxury brand YSL Beauté.

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Now it’s time to set and press. To make sure everything stays in place, spritz your face with Anastasia Beverly Hills’ Dewy Set Setting Spray before pressing on Ultimate Setting Powder from makeup guru Patrick Starrr’s One/Size beauty line. These tip-top setting products impart a smoother, more natural and longer-lasting finish, especially on oily skin since they soak up excess sebum. 

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Moving on to the eyes, the eyebrows need your attention first. French luxury goods conglomerate Louis Vuitton puts out a game-changing, multi-functional product through one of the beauty brands in its armoury, Make Up For Ever. Pro Sculpting Brow is a three-in-one tool built with a slanted-edge pencil tip, brush and sponge tip. It sculpts the brows and thus transforms the face in three easy steps: define, contour and highlight. 

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Next up are the eyelids, and this is where the true fun begins; treat the lids to the plant-based Blooming Edition Garden of Light Palette by vegan beauty brand Dear Dahlia. Boasting skin-loving ingredients and flower extracts in the form of nine buildable, non-creasing, neutral, sun-kissed tones, its velvety mattes, silky-smooth shimmers and high-sparkle glitters offer effortless yet glamo day-to-night glam. 

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To define the eyes, dress the lash line with Selena Gomez’s Rare Beauty standout, Perfect Strokes Matte Liquid Liner. Waterproof, smudge-proof and long-lasting, this liner is formulated with ultra-black pigments designed to accentuate the eyes. Due to a built-in, flexible brush tip of some 1,000 vegan bristles, wearers can easily create thin or thick lines with seamless precision and control, whether they are going for a subtle wing or a sharp cat’s eye.

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Adding bold drama to the overall look, you cannot go glam without mascara. New York-based cosmetics company Tarte’s gluten-free Lights, Camera, Lashes 4-in-1 Mascara not only adds definition, but curls as it strokes on for an eye-popping appeal. The mineral- and vitamin-rich formula also keeps lashes perky and fluttering throughout the night.

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Before looking to the lips, spray on Anastasia Beverly Hills’ Dewy Set Setting Spray once more to ensure everything stays in place. Then, finish with a layer (or two) of Gucci Beauty’s Rouge de Beauté Brilliant lipstick. Imparting instant radiance to the face, the lip tint is available in three new shades (in a range of 18) – 308 Lucy Dark Orange, 508 Diana Amber and 517 Abbie Maroon Red. These also provide a nourishing, moisturising and longwearing effect. All done? Finish your routine and you can start making your best impression during the forthcoming holiday hurrah.

 

(Text: Roberliza Eugenio)

Winter Skin Saviours: Hydrating products for dewy skin!

We’re loving the coat season but the sudden drop of temperature is harsh for the skin. Unless you’re one of the lucky humans blessed with plump, dewy skin year-round, you’re probably well-aware of the damage that winter can wreak on your pretty dermis. Below we detail the holy-grail products for winter skincare – make the swap now for added hydration, unless you want to be a member of the Withered Winter Skin Club!

Rescue and Recover

Sometime in 2013, an elephant strolled into the room and changed the beauty conversation. With innovative beauty formulas, clean ingredients and fun, neon packaging – mompreneur Tiffany Masterson – now a leading icon has disrupted the skincare industry and taken a tiny startup, Drunk Elephant to near unicorn status in less than a decade. Their Lala Retro Whipped Cream is an award-winning formula of rich omega acids, fermented green tea and other clean ingredients which instantly deliver hydrated, plump, revived skin. The formula will not leave you greasy or oily – perfect for all skin types.  

Face Cream Rich

When a trained doctor and a medical researcher designs a cosmetics line, you know your skin will get its money’s worth. Dr Barbara Strum‘s molecular cosmetics are as straightforward and clean as they come. The Face Rich Cream, a luxurious blend of nutrient-rich oils, collagen, activated compounds and a rich dose of vitamin E, shea butter among other ingredients will leave a youthful, nourished complexion. Use it daily to get the confidence of going bare skin. Highly effective for dry and mature skin. 

Overnight Repair
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First up, is Japanese beauty and skincare brand Tatcha’s Indigo Overnight Repair, a soothing moisturising treatment that visibly calms any irritation or inflammation and delivers active natural ingredients to strengthen the skin’s defensive layers. You can rest assured that the product will work to counter the effects of everyday exposure to harsh weather and pollution, so you wake up refreshed with luminous, healthier-looking skin. 

Also read: Trendiest must-have men’s coat for the season  

Revitalising Compounds
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If you’re looking for a lighter application, Ecological Compound emulsion from French skincare and cosmetics brand Sisley Paris is just the ticket. Packed with carefully balanced ingredients such as ginseng, rosemary, horsetail, hops and centella asiatica, this water-based serum moisturises, nourishes, revitalises and boosts the epidermis’ protection while toning facial contours. It can be used alone or before your usual moisturising cream for additional hydration.

Eye Treasure
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Not neglecting the eyes, we’ve included a quick-effect eye cream, Génifique Yeux by luxury skincare line Lancôme, that aims to visibly strengthen the eye area and provide a more radiant, youthful look in just seven days. Enriched with a complex of seven pre- and probiotic fractions, it’s light to the touch but packed with strong, defensive moisturising elements.

Also Read: Beauty Airbrushing – How photo filters are denting your confidence

Grim to Glowy
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Alternatively, marine-inspired La Mer continues to perfect the art of fermenting sea kelp into miraculous skincare products. Its latest all-nourishing, feather-light emulsion is packed with micronutrients. The Hydrating Infused Emulsion comprises nutrient-rich kelp and soy, as well as lime tea concentrate, to counter the effects of free radicals, and antioxidants to calm redness and inflammation – effortlessly revitalising the skin with the brand’s trademarked cell-renewing Miracle Broth.

Also read: Sparkle, Sequins & Velvet: Elevate your party looks this season

 

Winter Skincare: Avoid dry, flaky skin this season

 

The nip in the air is a welcome relief but the dryness it brings along is notoriously tough for skin.
Hello, dry, itchy, flaky skin! 

Switching to a good moisturizer at the first sign of chill is the right thing to do, but the dry indoor air might have already taken a harsh toll on your complexion. If you don’t want tired-looking skin to stay for the long haul, escalate your daily routine to ensure radiant, dewy skin all through the season. Scroll below for the best tips to minimize flare-ups, supercharge your skin and stay glowing in the coat season. 

1. Go fragrance free, keep cleansing gentle

Photo Courtesy: Skin Need

Fragrance in beauty products might feel zen to the senses but it is one of the most common causes for sensitivity, irritation and redness. In colder weather, a simple rule of thumb is – drier the air, drier the skin. Besides running a humidifier in the rooms where you spend maximum time, it is especially important to switch to a mild cleanser. When investing in one be sure to read the list of ingredients closely – opt for something which is clean, and sulphate/fragrance-free. Lookout for a product with as few ingredients as possible – the lesser the ingredients, the cleaner, gentler it will be for the skin. 

Photo courtesy: Charlotte Tilbury

The beauty space is crowded with famous faces but Hong Kong-based beauty company, Skin Need which believes in empowering ones natural beauty and embracing ones flaws, clearly stands out with its impressive range of natural products. It’s foam-based Light cleanser is paraben and sulphate-free, equipped with active rosehip oil, aloe vera and kumquat extracts among others. It’s perfectly mild to dissolve away the dirt while moisturizing the skin. Charlotte Tilbury’s award-winning, deeply hydrating, two-step Goddess Cleansing Ritual formula with vitamin B, C, charcoal, citrus oil among other supercharging elements is another innovative option for spa-like youthful, taut skin. 
Available online as well as all Hong Kong Sephora outlets. 

Also Read: Blow up, Glow up: Your ultimate hair treatment guide to a frizz-free life!

2. Use Hydrating Toners and Essences

Photo courtesy: Botanic Pretti5
 
Your winter routine cannot involve the harsh astringent formulas which zap the skin of natural moisture – lightweight, hydrating, treating toners and essences which leave a soft glow are all rage these days. In fact, toning is the most important step of post-cleanse skincare routine. It helps balance the pH level in your skin and get rid of any impurities after the cleanse. It’s really the first layer of hydration and prepares your skin for locking the moisture in. Korean women (and their flawless beauty) swear by essences for its cell-turnover, hydration and anti-ageing benefits.
 
Skincare is tricky, but locally founded, Japanese-made, cruelty-free brand Botanic Pretti5 is taking the extra effort in simplifying it. Channeling the power of Chinese medicine with cutting-edge Western technology, their Antioxidant Hydrating Toning Essence, winner of several beauty awards, with its pore-refining prowess, vitamin B5, TCM ingredients, in-tandem with aloe vera – is a one step formula for delivering intense hydration to the deepest levels of the skin. Guaranteed baby-soft feels with regular use. Available at Sephora outlets and directly from the company website

3. Nail your moisturizing regime

Photo courtesy: Botanic Pretti5

In winters it’s all about hydration, hydration and more hydration. Healthy and fresh-looking skin should be your goal throughout the year and can be achieved with all round consistency, but once the temperature dips, remember to bundle up on a slightly heavier lotion or a serum.

The Miracle Glow Facial oil by Botanic Pretti5 is a hydrating elixir – made with 100% Jojoba oil, squalene derivatives from olives, the oil is compatible with most types of skin, and even the most sensitive of the lot will benefit from its use. Cubed Daily Lotion is another lightweight formula that is especially formulated for Asian skin problems and instantly helps soothe dry, itchy, acne-prone skin. Regular use will help tone your skin and help gain radiance and if you’re feeling extra luxe then splurge on Charlotte Tilbury’s Magic Cream moisturizer – the refillable jar has been a proven weapon for more than two decades for spa-like skin by countless celebrities and in runways across the world. Dab it and almost instantly your skin feels plump, hydrated, taut – the Bio-Nymph Peptide Complex works to enhance the youthfulness, elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles on your face. Loaded with SPF15, sun exposure worries can be laid to rest. 

4. Dial down the exfoliation

Photo courtesy: Drunk Elephant

No matter how many creams, serums or oils you lather up, dry skin will remain dry without a light scrub. It’s a myth that buffing your skin in winters will further enhance the flakiness, but remember to take it easy on the exfoliation. Don’t overdo it, once or twice a week is enough, keep it gentle – remember less is more, Drunk Elephant’s Sugared Koffie Almond Milk Body Scrub is a classic product to swear by. It can be used on all skin types from the age group of 20 to 50 years and almost everyone will feel a soft, nourished touch after exfoliating the dry bits – it does not break down the skin’s natural barrier and keeps it soft, plump, flake-free and balanced. Available online as well as all Hong Kong Sephora outlets. 

Also Read: Exfoliation 101 for healthy glowing skin

5. Vitamin D supplementation is a must

Synthesis of vitamin D is critical not just for bone health but also optimum skin health. Research has shown that maintaining optimum levels of vitamin D helps counter the effects of ageing. But during winters, sun exposure is reduced and sunlight does not contain enough UVB radiation for our skin to make enough of the important vitamin – a lack of it is detrimental for your overall health and the skin will definitely feel the brunt – itchy, flaky, tight and prone to psoriasis and eczema. 

Hong Kong socialite Helen Ma talks about life & her latest venture

For a girl discouraged by her father to work, she blazed a trail in fashion, beauty and catering. Now in her 40s, a mellower Ma focuses on quality content and personal contentment.

You are a beauty expert, philanthropist, fashion guru and mother – how do you make wearing so many hats look so effortless?
My daughter Shyme is eight years old; my mother is 88 years old; and in the midst of family and work commitments, I try and make life happen. It might look effortless or easy from the outside, but a lot of chutzpah, dedication, hard work and multi-tasking goes into doing all the things that I do. I have to be fluid and flexible on a regular basis, do things with gusto, plan my schedule to a tee and be accommodating to change. Learning to appear calm and maintaining your zen is very important, and stepping out of your comfort zone is critical.

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Dress by Bottega Veneta

When you were young, what was your ambition in life?
It’s funny as I always had an inherent sense of style and a passion for fashion and beauty, yet growing up, I didn’t aim to become anyone or anything. I grew up in a conservative family where my dad thought there was no need for girls to work – or even marry if the family can support them, because no guy would be good enough for his girl [laughs].
When I left university, I knew I wanted to do something in the fashion industry. I was lucky that the LVMH group offered me my first job. After two years of hard work and learning the realities on the ground, I realised that while I have a strong love for fashion, I didn’t necessarily want to be a part of the industry. I switched to Joyce Group and started their beauty wing in Hong Kong. I opened the first three stores – the flagship outlet in Russell Street, Times Square, followed by Pacific Place and New World Tower in Central. It was at this time that my dream of bringing a high-end skincare brand to Hong Kong took shape.

You have launched a magazine, Helen Ma Loves Muse, run a successful F&B venture, and introduced the French-influenced Japanese luxury skincare brand Evidens de Beauté to Hong Kong. Which of these venture is closest to your heart?
I do everything with passion and conviction, but being a Hong Kong girl I have a love for all things beauty and skincare. That’s the reason I started Evidens de Beauté in Hong Kong and China, and its associated spa, Le Spa Evidens. But to my own surprise, I enjoyed my stint in food and beverage the most. In 2003 I started out as a silent partner in catering company Manna Group International, but it wasn’t until 2017 when my business partner, Quentin Chiu, convinced me about its potential that I became more involved in the business. The idea of running the successful Manna Market pop-up at Lane Crawford had me intrigued and though I’m no culinary expert, I love how food touches everyone’s life and leaves an impression.

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What’s next on the business front?
I’m very excited about stepping outside my comfort zone and going digital with my lifestyle e-commerce platform, One Plus One. The focus of the e-commerce venture will be wellness, creating healthy recipes, sustainable trends, home styling and engaging experiences. The aim is to produce quality content and sell niche products at affordable prices. Our website is still in the testing phase, and I’m taking it slow and making it right, but once we launch, I want our venture to become a one-stop destination for excellent lifestyle content and product curation.

Many creative collaborations to empower female talent, their products and stories are in the works. One of the entrepreneurs with whom we are partnering took candle-making classes with a HK$10,000 grant from the government. She’s a hardworking young woman in her 20s with a clear vision of who she wants to become. As an entrepreneur these are the kind of inspirational stories I want to support.

What’s your advice for the modern-day career woman juggling family and work life?
Hang in there; it’s not easy, but it gets better. Balancing a thriving career and a blissful family will take too much of your strength and resilience. Try to live guilt-free, happy and take out some ‘me time’ – whether it’s chilling with friends, a spa day, dinner and drinks or seeking solitude. You’ll need something just for yourself to recharge, refuel and stay on top of your game.

“Balancing a thriving career and a blissful family will take too much of your strength and resilience. Try to live guilt-free [and] happy”

You are known for your impeccable glamour. How has your personal style evolved over the years?
I’ve lived multiple fashion lives over the past two decades. My 20s were marked by maximalist dressing, exuberant makeup and strutting around town in high heels. I was somewhat calmer, though still edgy with fashion choices in my 30s. But now that I’m in my 40s, I don’t feel the need to dress to impress anymore. At this stage of my life, confidence, comfort and ease are far more important than following a rulebook. Neutral colours, pristine, clean lines and conscious, elegant choices define my everyday relaxed style.

When you’re not busy with work, where are you most likely to be found?
At the pool – lounging in the water, soaking up the rays, is my favourite way to unwind. And if I’m not by the pool, I’ll be relaxing at home in pyjamas!

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As the autumn-winter weather descends upon us, please share some styling recommendations.
Keep your seasonal edit classy and clean. Oversized jackets, hoodies, sweaters and chunky loafers are always good to cosy up in. Bottega Veneta’s mini Jodie bag and the ‘25cm’ Hermès Birkin are chic choices for a fancy dinner or a laidback brunch. You can’t go wrong in neutrals – black, navy, khaki, army green; these shades blend seamlessly, are perfect for layering and give a classy vibe.

“I don’t feel the need to dress to impress anymore… confidence, comfort and ease are far more important than following a rulebook”

What’s your haircare and skincare philosophy for the change in season?
In the winter, skin tends to lose more moisture, so tweak your entire regimen to keep it protected. It’s very important to stay hydrated and apply masks. You can never over-mask; I try and apply one every day, selecting different types for toning, moisturising and restoration. Masks with hyaluronic acid and antioxidants are effective in countering anti-ageing and pigmentation. Your hair needs extra TLC in the changing season for that shiny, healthy look. A simple coconut oil massage or a deep-conditioning mask are both excellent to nourish and combat dry, brittle ends.

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Where do you see yourself 10 years from now?
I look forward to life. Ten years from now, I will be in my 50s, my daughter will be in her teens and off to university, and if I’m lucky enough, then my mom will be close to her 100th birthday and I’ll be seeing her every day! It will be a stable, simple, slow life in which I’d still be working… but I’d also hopefully be half-retired [laughs].

Thank you.

Interview by: Nikita Mishra; Photographer: Jack Law; Art Direction & Styling: Jhoshwa Ledesma

Exfoliation 101 for healthy, glowing skin

Although the feel of autumn is a little late to the party, it’s never too early to treat the skin with some extra attention and TLC. While the city is still under the persistent glare of the sun, come evening, the change of season is felt in a cool breeze, and you might begin to notice that your skin is a little dull or dry to the touch, which could mean one thing: It’s time to incorporate an additional step to your beauty regimen – exfoliation.

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You can slather on layers of skincare products for an illuminating glow, but there is nothing like an exfoliating routine to work its magic and offer your dermis a clear, clean canvas for the rest of your skincare routine to take effect. Fit it into your routine twice a week to clear dead skin cells, remove dirt from pores, and reduce inflammation, fine lines and mild pigmentation. It also promotes the effects of collagen and antioxidants, giving dermis a healthier and brighter natural glow.

So, how best to include an exfoliating step in your beauty routine? To kick off, there are two types of exfoliators – chemical and physical – and they can come in a variety of forms, such as cleansers, toners, masks, scrubs and serums. Which one to reach for depends entirely on your skin type.

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Chemical peels are generally most beneficial to those with dry skin. Falling under three high-performing groups of acids: AHAs (alpha hydroxy acid), BHAs (beta hydroxy acid) and PHAs (polyhydroxy acid), each type contains different active ingredients that offer slightly diverse benefits. For example, AHAs are plant-based, water-soluble substances that exfoliate the outer layer of the skin. They normally contains glycolic, lactic or citric acid, or a combination of the three, much like UK skincare brand 111Skin’s Rose Quartz Exfoliating Mask is formulated with a blend of amino acids, hydrators, botanical extracts and fruit acid complex, all of which work to slough off dead skin cells while hydrating the dermis and activating collagen production, resulting in a plumper, brighter complexion.

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First-time AHA users may find the tingling sensation of these chemicals a little uncomfortable, and their skin and may need time to adapt. AHA levels range between three and 30 percent, so for sensitive skin, formulations of five percent and less will exfoliate more gently. For instance, Chanel’s Hydra Beauty Camellia Glow Concentrate features a three percent blend of AHAs as well as hyaluronic acid – which despite its ‘acid’ moniker serves as a humectant, binding in moisture rather than stripping  it away. Fellow hero ingredients camellia yeast extract and blue ginger then provide antioxidant for sun protection while boosting hydration, giving the skin a fresh, natural glow.

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For sensitive and dry skin, opt for PHAs. Although having similar effects to AHAs, they comprise larger molecules that sink down, thereby causing less irritation on delicate dermis. Calling on the likes of inflammation-busting gluconolactone acid and lactobionic acid, PHA-based products like cruelty-free Ole Henriksen’s Dewtopia 20% Acid Night Treatment or Tata Harper’s Regenerating Cleanser both smoothen out the skin for a more radiant complexion.

“A PHA-based product will probably not cause as much irritation as an AHA, and is less sensitive to sun exposure, too”

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While the former includes an acid blend of 10-percent AHA and 10-percent PHA, and lemon enzymes that replenish the skin as you sleep, its US counterpart boasts a wholly natural, non-toxic dual-action exfoliating treatment to reduce skin smarting and reddening. Its cherry-stone micro powder then gently lifts and buffs away dead skin cells. The outcome? A more balanced, smoother and more radiant complexion.

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Moving on to acne-prone skin, salicylic acid, a type of BHA, is the exfoliating friend of those prone to break outs and mild skin pigmentation. Unlike the other two acid groups, BHAs are oil soluble organic compounds that penetrate deeper into the dermis – healing acne scars, blemishes and removing blackhads and whiteheads. Thus, products containing salicylic acid like New York City-based Wander Beauty’s Fast Lane Instant Facial and Tarte’s Knockout Tingling Treatment serves as much more effective cleansers for clogged pores than regular ones – better yet, they’re both vegan.

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The former is a fast-acting exfoliating gel mask, which contains 10-percent AHA (lactic and glycolic acids) and 2-percent BHA levels, as well as root extract from meadowfoam seed oil to moisturise. The latter is a skin-tingling toner that helps to balance the skin’s pH level, while minimising pores and promoting cell renewal. Its active ingredients include a 10-percent acid complex of salicylic and lactic acids, as well as sulphur, niacinamide and glycerin to hydrate and clarify.

“Salicylic acid, a type of BHA, is the exfoliator friend of those prone to acne or skin pigmentation”

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But who says exfoliation is only for the face? Body scrubs for oily skin are also a luscious self-care treatment for the rest of your body. An option like Ouai’s Scalp & Body Scrubs, featuring core ingredients like apple cider vinegar and chelating agents, provides deep-cleansing of oil and dirt, heavy metals, chlorine and other waterborne impurities, as well as the remnants of hair-styling products, thanks to its hydrolyzed keratin, giving the hair and body a fresh start at the end of the day.

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Another pick, perhaps, is Italian skincare expert Seed to Skin’s The Awakening Detoxifying Algae Marine Salt Scrub might fit the bill with its mineral and antioxidant-rich combination of sea salt and mud, marine algae, shea butter, spirulina and green tea said to leave the skin feeling rejuvenated.

gafencu_beauty_skincare_exfoliating_Mauli_Rituals_exfoliation

For a therapeutic option, Mauli’s Reawaken Himalayan Hand & Body Scrub imparts mineral-rich salts infused with curative oils such as lime, sandalwood, jasmine, rose and frankincense for an aromatically relaxing, end-of-day treatment, leaving skin silky smooth and glowing all over. Just as it should be.

Moisture of Life: Essential hydrating serums to add to your fall routine

It’s been a relentless summer for burning rays, and the sun has yet to put on shades for the journey into autumn. Those who followed our soothing after-sun skincare guide last issue will have prepped their dermis with the appropriate layers to counter sun damage, but there’s still more you can do. The secret to prolonging youthful, supple skin is to nurture it with a boost of hydration, courtesy of our curated list of highly potent, deeply moisturising serums.

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RéVive Moisturising Renewal Hydrogel Targeted 4D Hydration Serum
First up, American luxury skincare line RéVive held nothing back when producing its most advanced and reliable hydrating serum to combat fine lines and wrinkles. Moisturising Renewal Hydrogel Targeted 4D Hydration Serum boasts nourishing bio-renewal technology. Its powerful glycolic acid formulation utilises four types of hyaluronic acid that attract and retain moisture within the skin.

derm_institute_Cellular Rejuvenating Serum_gafencu_beauty_augDerm Institute Cellular Rejuvenating Serum
Next up, New York skincare brand Derm Institute has been lauded for its science-based formulas and cutting-edge ingredients. Its innovative Cellular Rejuvenating Serum tackles the build up of toxins underneath the skin, while its patented Fillift complex with anti-ageing peptides counters free radical damage with collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid, improving firmness and elasticity of the facial contours.

darphin-stimulskin-plus-absolute-renewal-serum_beauty_aug_gafencuDarphon Stimulskin Plus Absolute Renewal Serum
For a sumptuous crystal-based alternative, French skincare brand Darphin has introduced Stimulskin Plus Absolute Renewal Serum. This new, advanced formula harnesses the natural properties of its active botanical ingredients and Sea Emerald to stimulate natural collagen production and restore youthfulness by reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

SarahChapman_Skinesis Age-Repair Serum_beauty_sep_gafencuSarah Chapman Skinesis Age-Repair Serum
Another promising hydration serum to counter the effects of free radical damage is Skinesis Age-Repair Serum by London premier skincare and beauty specialist Sarah Chapman. Comprised of active ingredients from the finest botanicals and a trio of collagen-stimulating peptides, anti-oxidant complex and vitamins, the serum promotes brighter, firmer and more supple skin.

skin need_100% Hyaluronic Acid_sep_beauty_gafencuSkin Need 100% Hyaluronic Acid
For a more sustainable option, look no further than Hong Kong-based skincare label Skin Need. The pure, clean formula of its 100% Hyaluronic Acid is combined with silica-rich bamboo extract to help fortify skin proteins. It also protects the dermis from sensitising agents and soothes all skin types, including irritation-prone and non-comedogenic skin. Simply add five drops onto the face before patting upwards for refreshingly light, supple skin.

Blow up, Glow up: Your ultimate hair treatment guide to a frizz-free life

Frizzy, coily, and just down right dry – there’s nothing like a bad hair-do to set your day off on the wrong note. But whether you’re short on time or unbothered to spend an hour to style a perfectly blown out head of hair, we’ve got the low down on the best glow up that will have your morning routine straightened out. 

You’ve heard about Brazilian blowout, keratin treatment and Japanese straightening, but do you know the difference? Here’s your guide to knowing which hair straightening treatment to go for that will tame your precious tresses.  

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What to know:
Beauty comes with a price. In this case, any effective hair straightening or smoothening treatment unavoidably involves chemicals to alter the hair’s natural state. Especially with frizzy and wavy locks,the curlier the hair the more time it takes and the stronger the product is used. 

But, no hair is made equal, so always look to an experienced professional to do these treatments because the wrong type or amount of formula applied can results in extremely dry, severely damaged, or even the loss of hair.

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Japanese straightening
First on the market, and thee most commonly used permanent straightening method, Japanese straightening is the longest  lasting solution to transform the curliest hairs into pin-straight tresses, albeit the most time consuming and damaging. This method uses chemical relaxers to break apart the natural bonds of hair cuticles and rebonds them to change its structure by sealing in the treatment by use of thermal reconditioning — you might have seen those rotating heaters that hover above head — before being thinly sectioned and flat ironed part by part. 

Although the entire process can take up to 6 hours to complete, it does transform curly, frizzy and coily locks to pin-straight tresses and lives up to its promise of a much longer-lasting effect. And unlike Keratin and Brazilian Blowout, Japanese straightened hair does not return to its original form unless it is grown out. 

Who is it for: A solution for those who are too busy to manage frizzy or curly hair on a day-to-day basis and prefer a permanently straight finish everyday. 

How long does it last: 6-12 months

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Keratin Complex
Keratin treatments, also known as protein treatments and sometimes referred to as Brazillian Blowout, are all the rave. Praised for its customisable and natural- and healthy-looking finish, the treatment uses a keratin solution that reinforces the hair’s natural proteins and adds a protective layer that smoothness the cuticles that causes frizzy strands to stand out — instead of breaking apart its natural bond to restructure them. 

The solution is applied onto the shaft of the hair and is left to sit between 30 minutes to 1 hour, then, rinsed, blow dried and straightened with a flat iron to seal in the amino-based treatment, before going through another round of wash, condition and blow dry. The result offers an effortlessly glossier and healthier look that can be air dried and easier to style than  Japanese straightening. 

Who is it for: Anyone who struggles with frizz and coiling hair, especially in humid weather; or anyone who wants to keep their naturally curly, wavy or texture but prefers a more manageable head of hair. 

How long does it last: 3 – 5 months

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Brazilian Blowout
Contrary to popular belief, keratin treatments and Brazilian blowouts are not too different from each other — in fact, the only difference between the two is that keratin treatment is an umbrella term for semi-permanent chemical hair relaxing treatments, while Brazilian blowout is a brand in itself and is formulated with a milder level of relaxants that provide a straight finish, while still leaving the hair with a voluminous body. 

The two treatments also differ in the aftercare process. While it is advised not to wash hair treated with keratin formula for the first 72 hours, Brazilian Blowouts can be washed the following day, air-dried and styled more flexibly.

Who is it for: Anyone who prefers a silky smooth and voluminous body of hair that takes little day-to-day effort to style. 

How long does it last: 3 months

 

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Hot oil treatment
For a natural, non-chemical treatment, hot oil treatments offers your precious locks a chemical-free and plant-based treatment to help repair, nourish and strengthen your hair by sealing the hair’s cuticles with nutrients that are absorbed through the scalp —  protecting the hair and promoting healthier, smoother and faster hair growth while preventing dryness and dandruff. 

The warmth from the oil helps lift the hair cuticles to allow moisture to enter while also sealing it in. However it does require regular and consistent weekly treatments for visible results, but only provides a temporary fix.

Jade Rollers – Cosmetic con or skincare secret?

Jade rollers are having a huge moment right now. They’re popping up in conversation, on social feeds, at department stores, beauty shops – almost every celebrity and influencer is using them because who isn’t obsessed with anything that naturally makes the skin taut?

The tiny beauty tools have skyrocketed in popularity, the million dollar question though –  does rubbing them on your face in the name of beauty really work and is it backed by science? 

Keep scrolling, we got all the answers:

What’s the fuss all about and how best to use them?

Face rollers can come in a variety of crystals – jade, rose quartz, tourmaline and amethyst are the most commonly available ones.

Crystals have a natural coolness – no wonder, they find prominence in several aspects of wellness – from cleansing our water to meditation, purifying the vibes or (like Miranda Kerr) putting them in your bra! When it comes to skincare, they might be rage right now but their use is deeply rooted in history. They’ve been used for centuries in the Chinese medicine where the belief was to draw out the negative energy or ‘chi’ and have references in ancient Indian scriptures as well. 

If you haven’t really tried it, then get hold of a crystal roller, freeze it for soothing effect, apply your favourite serum or oil on the face and roll the tool in upward strokes for micro-circulation. The idea is to aid the lymphatic drainage system and help the skin and facial muscles drain toxic fluid buildup, increase the flow of oxygen which reduces puffiness and minimises fine lines. The cooling nature of crystals even after coming in contact with the skin helps to brighten complexion and penetrate the product deeper in your skin. 

The design of the face roller with a larger oval stone and a smaller circular stone helps in getting complete rolling coverage on the face. Below we tell you how to use both the sides for the most effective results.

Also Read: Eye Yoga – Latest wellness trend. We examine if it’s gimmick or godsend

DIY beauty tool – Here’s what to remember

Besides that zen-like feeling, regular and correct usage of face rollers has legitimate skin benefits – dermatologists say it makes your features pop, skin looks more awake and taut, improves elasticity, tightens pores, helps eliminate toxins and naturally boosts collagen. There’s a host of benefits but if not used correctly, it can do more harm than good. Keep these tips in mind: 

1. Begin with a cleansed face and a cleansed, refrigerated roller. Apply your favourite serum/cream of choice but remember to use a ‘slippery’ product. Some people apply face mask sheets and roll over it for maximum benefits. 

2. Use medium pressure and at least twice a day for visible benefits. 

3. Like with any beauty routine, a face roller is not for all skin types. Some people break out or develop rashes – immediately discontinue its use if it’s not suiting your skin. 

Neck: The oval side of the jade roller is perfect for the long neck – roll it up and down the neck in vertical lines and with uniform pressure. 

Jawline: We love them taut and defined, don’t we? Stay with the oval side of the roller and begin massaging from the centre of your chin towards the earlobe. Repeat for 6 to 7 times on each side and begin to work up the rest of the face. 

Eyes: The smaller stone works well for the eye. Remember to be extra gentle on the eye, roll from the inner point of the eye to the outer area, cover the under eye which sees maximum puffiness and the crow’s feet as well. Roll back and forth for about 8 to 10 times twice a day. 

Also Read: Not just skin deep, five wellness benefits of gua sha beyond skincare

AHA vs. BHA: Decoding the best acid for your face

Beauty does not come cheap – we all know that – but you could be washing away hundreds of dollars on a face wash, and even more on serums and moisturisers, without giving your skin the ideal condition to thrive in.

To truly reap the benefits of your skincare routine, adding products with AHAs and BHAs to your regime could do wonders to the skin and give it to a more youthful, supple glow. Haven’t heard of these magical ingredients?

Here’s what you need to know. 

AHA and BHA The difference, benefits and when to use it gafencu beauty indie lee oraganic fruity skincare

What are AHAs and BHAs
AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) and BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acid) are hydroxy acids, also referred to as chemical peels. They are used to exfoliate dead skin cells, clear the pores of bacteria, reduce inflammation, acne scars, fine lines and ageing spots caused by sun damage. Basically, improving the overall texture and complexion in the long run. They typically come in the form of liquid masks, but can also be found in a variety of skincare products such as moisturisers, scrubs, serums and toners.

Although both groups of acids yield similar benefits, they each have distinct differences in terms of purpose and results. If you’re looking to reap more anti-ageing and hydrating benefits from your products, try AHAs, while BHAs will help you tackle acne issues.  

AHA and BHA The difference, benefits and when to use it gafencu beauty indie lee skincare
Photo courtesy of Indie Lee

Try: Indie Lee Stem Cell Serum contains citric and hyaluronic acid to support the skin’s natural hydration and brighten the skin tone. Its ingredients are free of alcohol, fragrance, oil, paraben and sulphate, making its formula suitable for dry, sensitive, oily and combination skin, while addressing mild pigmentation and dry skin problems. Priced at HK$1,060

 

Are there any side effects
Mild redness and tingles are common side effects of both AHA and BHA products. They have highly potent and active ingredients and skin reaction to them is common.

Those new to using these hydroxy acid peels can start with a lower level of eight to 10% for AHA and 1% BHA, before gradually moving on to higher concentration levels. Day creams and serums with AHAs should also be followed with a layer of protective sun screen because photosensitivity can leave the skin vulnerable and irritate the skin. 

AHA and BHA The difference, benefits and when to use it gafencu beauty dewtopia skincare
Photo courtesy: Ole Henriksen

Try: Ole Henriksen Dewtopia™ 20% Acid Night Treatment, a cruelty-free vegan serum formulated with 20% acid blend of 10% AHAs and 10% PHAs, sealing your evening routine with a firming gel that reveals a smoother and brighter complexion overnight. Priced at HK$480

Also Read: Damaging skincare ingredients you need to be wary of!

How to use AHA
AHAs are primarily glycolic, lactic and citric acids, though it could also include tartaric, malic and mandelic acids. They are all water-soluble exfoliating ingredients from sugary fruits that help reduce ageing spots, melasma, acne scars and reduce fine lines on the epidermis. AHA chemical peels can go up to 30% in concentration level, but those still new to AHAs or have dry and sensitive skin can start with formulations of 10% or lower. This will give your skin a gentler introduction to AHAs before gradually working your way up to higher concentration levels over time. 

AHA and BHA The difference, benefits and when to use it gafencu beauty good genes skincare
Photo courtesy: Good Genes

Try: Sunday Riley Good Genese All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment contains lactic acid and balancing botanicals that gently exfoliate the skin and reduce the visibility of fine lines and dark spots — revealing a clearer and smoother complxion. HK$960

 

What is BHA
BHAs are oil-soluble organic compound exfoliators, typically salicylic acid, that are best used to relieve clogged pores, blemishes and acne scars, as well as remove black heads and white heads. Unlike AHAs, they are able to penetrate underneath the skin as well as on the surface, effectively breaking down and clearing dead skin cells and bacteria from within the pores and preventing breakouts. The highest level of BHA concentration is a mere 2%, though 1% BHA will still offer an effective cleanse on sensitive skin whilst providing a calmer formula to ease redness and inflammation. 

AHA and BHA The difference, benefits and when to use it gafencu beauty tarte skincare
Photo courtesy: Tarte

Try: Tarte Knockout Texture & Pore Refining Pads, a set of 2-sided skin-renewing peel pads containing a blend of BHAs, amino acids, vitamin B5 and centella asiatica that help penetrate below the epidermis, promote hydration and collagen production, and instantly reduce the visibility of large pores and fine lines, resulting in extra soft and smooth complextion. The cotton pads are also biodegradable. $310

Also Read: Skincare Secrets: Five beauty truths that the industry won’t tell you

 

Can you combine AHA and BHA?
Using AHAs and BHAs can yield visible benefits for the epidermis, both inside and out. When used in combination, it can clear the surface of the skin and underneath it, supporting hydration and allowing for the rest of your skincare products to work more effectively.

As for sensitive skin, these potent acids can leave the surface of the skin temporarily dryer,  and more vulnerable and sensitive due to its active exfoliating ingredients. In that case, you can split the two group of acids into day and night routines, rather than layering the two products on top of one another. 

AHA and BHA The difference, benefits and when to use it gafencu beauty allies of skin skincare
Photo courtesy: Allies of Skin

Try: Allies of Skin Bright Future Sleeping Facial contains 8% AHAs and BHAs, 5% enzymes, seven brightening and antioxidants, like salicylic acid, hyaluronic acid, a ton of probiotics – all this hydrates the dermis as it exfoliates it. It’s almost like an effortless overnight facial that results in brighter, smoother and clearer skin. Formulated to suit hypo-allergenic and sensitive skin, it is free of fragrance, parabens and sulphates. Priced at HK$1,035

The Chemistry of Beauty: Founder and skincare formulator of Skin Need Christal Leung on the secret to less-is-more skincare

With the opening of her Hong Kong lab next month, cosmetic chemist Christal Leung is on a mission to simplify skincare and bring it closer to home, while delivering supremely customisable skincare products through her brand, Skin Need.

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In your opinon, where did your personal passion for skincare stem from?
It began at a very young age. When I was a teenager, my mum ran a beauty salon and I was there every weekend to help with bookings and scheduling. Seeing her approach to skincare – customising products with fresh fruits and vegetables – and watching the way she brought joy and confidence to her customers, I realised that this was what I wanted to do as well, to create this kind of positivity and joy no matter which industry I would dedicate myself to. Unsurprisingly, that turned out to be the beauty industry.

How did your skincare label, Skin Need, come about?
Actually my mother was the one to start it. A lot of the products she used in the salon were manufactured and imported from the United States and other Western countries, which meant they were geared more towards Caucasian skin types and environments. She wanted something that was specially created for the humidity and temperatures of Hong Kong, something that would suit the lifestyles of the city’s residents. So, she worked with cosmetic chemists in the States and brought over her own products for customers in her salon. When I became a cosmetic chemist and joined Skin Need 12 years ago, I began evolving, reformulating and upgrading them.

gafencu magazine people interview crystal leung skin need 5

What do you think sets Skin Need apart from other brands in the market?
I think what makes Skin Need unique is that we didn’t come from a commercial approach – we weren’t thinking of what kind of gap we wanted to fill in the market or what ingredients we’d use to make it different. Our philosophy evolved from the experiences and skincare problems that my mother encountered over her career, and how she felt beauty products should actually be addressing those needs.
A lot of companies promote a hero product, a one-size-fits-all that everybody should be using, be it a serum, a cream or a sunblock. But my mother felt – and I concur – that our skin is always in a very dynamic environment of external and internal change, based on factors, such as weather, stress levels and hormones. So, at Skin Need we aim to create a skincare regimen that can really evolve with the needs and changes of your skin.

For example, when hormones cause the dermis to become dehydrated or oily, you need to customise your cream immediately to boost its moisture levels. On the other hand, when your skin is very dry or sensitive due to stress, you have to add emollients to nourish and rejuvenate it back to full health. Ultimately, the strength of Skin Need is our ability to create customised skincare regimens that can meet a customer’s unique needs. What’s more, we also empower users to observe changes in their skin daily, and offer a range of oil-based and water-based serums and different active ingredients that can be blended into their creams to suit their exact needs on any given day.

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Do you have any upcoming projects on the horizon that you’re excited about?
Yes, I’m currently in the midst of a very hectic and exciting project, which is set to open its doors next month. I’m building a Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) certified lab in Kwai Chung, which will have five clean rooms and assembly lines for the bottling and filling of cosmetics. We’ll also have homogenisers and production capabilities to produce skincare that are ‘Made in Hong Kong’. Ultimately, while our products are still manufactured in the States, we’ll ship them en masse to the city to be packaged here, so we can greatly cut down our carbon footprint and fuel consumption.

Can you share one or two common mistakes people make in their daily skincare regimen?
The issue I face most often is that customers use too many products too often for no good reason at all. Because of all the information that is so readily available on the internet – you know, ‘you have to use retinoids, it does magic for your skin’ or ‘the salicylic acid concentration has to be one percent’ – everyone feels like they need a bit of everything. This, in turn, drives suppliers to produce in higher amounts than needed without educating consumers on which products should be used in tandem and which shouldn’t be used together at all.

So, one of the most common problems I encounter is users layering an amalgam of products like acids with highly purifying clay masks, and adding retinoids as a last step and so forth. It’s just crazy because ultimately, you’re compromising the barrier protection of your skin. You harm it by ignoring the fact that you need a balanced skin pH level so that it can fend off bacteria. Not only are you not going to get the results you want, you’re damaging your skin in the process, which leaves you open to a plethora of problems in the future that didn’t exist in the first place.

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So, what’s your tip for simplifying skincare?
I think hydration is important for everyone. If your skin is dehydrated, then using humectants such as hyaluronic acid and natural moisturising ingredients like Vitamin B5 in your daily routine are a must. For those suffering from an oily dermis, these hydrants also help balance oil production. In fact, our body can’t produce its own water, so when it gets dehydrated, its automatic response is to create an oily barrier instead – this is what causes blocked pores and blackheads. Studies show that hydration can help counteract the effects of ageing skin and sensitive skin too, so I really can’t stress enough the importance of moisturising your skin properly.

As a balance to your busy schedule, how do you like to relax during your down time?
To be honest, work is pretty much my hobby. It’s something I feel so passionate about and find so much joy in that I don’t feel like it’s work. Having said that, last year my sister told me that I was too much of a workaholic and needed to find a pastime, so I joined the Entrepreneurs’ Organization. It’s a group of like-minded entrepreneurs who come together not so much to talk about potential opportunities and connections but rather to share and reflect on the hurdles that come with running your own business, and also to expand our collective horizons through learning opportunities conducted by experts. I was invited to their board this year and at the moment I’m spending my spare time curating learning experiences for our members.

Finally, what is your biggest guilty pleasure?
Junk food. I absolutely love tucking into a bag of chips or a box of chocolates, so I’m really lucky that I have skincare products that can counteract their side effects!

Thank you.

Credits

Interview: Tenzing Thondup
Photographer: Jack Law
Videographer: Kingsley Lau
Art Direction & Styling: Jhoshwa Ledesma
Jewellery: No. Thirty Three Joaillerie
Location: WULT, Central