Snow Signs: Five decades of the Snowflakes timepieces by Tudor

One of the many factors that makes a brand stand out is the iconic component that is unique to its identity. For the Swiss horology brand Tudor, this exclusive element is undoubtedly the Snowflakes emblem – angular hand needles with square shaped hour calibres, which has been featured on countless timepieces across the decades.

Originally introduced on two diving watches in 1969, this innovation allowed watch manufacturers to add luminescence to it – resulting in timepieces that are legible in any given lighting condition and fitting for the house’s tagline #BornToDare.

In the decades to follow, Snowflakes became well-known not only among watch collectors, but amassed new followers among the divers of navy forces from all over the world including France, Canada, Italy, who all started sporting timepieces that featured this specification by Tudor.

Initially a configuration that appeared only on diving watches, the high-end Swiss watchmaker later reinforced this unique element on its Black Bay and Pelagos models that were launched at the Baselworld 2012.

Fast forward to fifty years from its very first appearance, Snowflakes has continued to be one of Tudor’s defining features that is immediately recognised by watch aficionados globally.

Jacob & Co. unveils dazzling new timepieces at Baselworld

Swiss watchmaker Jacob & Co. has been captivating haute horology enthusiasts for over 30 years now thanks to its much-lauded ability to smoothly encapsulate the stunning tenets of high jewellery design into its groundbreaking, precision-engineered timepieces.

Jacob & Co Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition

This year, Jacob & Co. chose Baselworld – the world’s biggest watch event – to stage the latest chapter in its illustrious legacy. To begin the proceedings, the watchmaker announced an exciting new partnership with renowned supercar marque, Bugatti. To mark the historic moment, it unveiled the 39-piece limited-edition Twin Turbo Furious Bugatti Edition, replete with two intricate triple-axis tourbillons, a decimal repeater and a racing-themed “fuel” power reserve indicator.

If that weren’t enough, the luxury label has also introduced two all-new models into its much-acclaimed Astronomia collection. First up was the Astronomia Maestro, a beautiful grand complication timepiece that not only incorporates the brand’s acclaimed gravitational triple axis tourbillon movement, but also features a minute repeater with carillon gongs, all set within the iconic space-themed fascia for which the collection is famed.

Last, but certainly not least, is Jacob & Co.’s Astronomia Casino. Here, the central design conceit is the fully-operational roulette wheel that dominates its generous fascia, painstakingly crafted from green, red and black enamel with mahogany inlays. Furthermore, each of these haute horological masterpieces can be personalised to display its fortuitous owner’s lucky number. Limited to just 18 pieces, it’s the perfect timepiece for those chosen few who don’t surrender to chance, but instead control their luck and command their own fortunes.

A Hint of Basel: Haute horological treasures from Baselworld 2019

The month of March is inevitably ring-fenced and red-circled on the wall-planners of watch lovers the world over. This, of course, is because within its 31-day span, some six of them are given over to Baselworld, the high point of the haute horology year and the expo par excellence for keen chronometer collectors.

This year, the event ran from 21 to 26 March, with the 520 brands on show attracting 81,200 attendees. While the available space does not stretch to showcasing all the debutante designs that merit a mention, the claim to greater attention of seven of them in particular just cannot be disputed.

Baselworld 1 MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT — MB&F Legacy Machine FlyingT

Female watch fans were in for a particular treat with MB&F opting to unveil its first-ever ladies’ timepiece – the Legacy Machine FlyingT – at the event. With its accentuated crystal dome, dazzlingly diamond-studded bezel and fascia, and central flying tourbillon, this was one new arrival that was all but impossible to miss. Quirky yet undeniably chic, it’s a design that’s every bit as eye-catching as any of the marque’s more outré chap-friendly chronometers.

Baselworld 2 Chanel Boy∙friend Skeleton Black Edition — Chanel Boy∙friend Skeleton Black Edition

For those in search of something a tad subtler, Chanel’s limited-edition Boy∙friend Skeleton Black Edition is an ode to minimalism, with its rectangular black ceramic case – devoid of any embellishments – the perfect foil for its skeletonised dial. Here the proprietary manually-winding Calibre 3 movement is clearly visible, as are the overlapping hour-and-minute dial and small seconds subdial. It’s actually something of a shame that only 55 such watches are ever to see the light of day.

Baselworld 3 Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic — Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic

Gentlemen horological connoisseurs, meanwhile, were treated to a veritable smorgasbord of timepiece treasures, including Bulgari’s groundbreaking Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. Rightly securing the marque its fifth world record, this ultra-slim timepiece’s Calibre BVL 318 movement clocks in at just 3.3mm, with the watch’s overall thickness being merely 6.9mm. Fitted with a GMT function – allowing the watch to display two separate time zones – this would be a welcome addition to the armoury of any non-tardy traveller.

Baselworld 4 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 — Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42

A more athletic approach was on offer from Rolex in the form of its all-new upsized 42mm Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42. From the off, its white gold bezel (complete with a striking matte black Cerachrom insert) and all-black dial make it a real attention-grabber. Underneath beats a Calibre 3235 movement, the most cutting-edge time-and-date generator this most eminent of watchmakers has ever produced. Sturdy yet sophisticated, this is truly a chronogram for the sophisticated seafarer.

Baselworld 5 TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph — TAG Heuer Autavia Isograph

Eschewing seaborne soirées for airborne adventure is Swiss watchmaker TAG Heuer with a new iteration of its long-loved Autavia – (aut)o and (avia)tion – collection. Dubbed the Autavia Isograph, its bi-directional 60-minute bezel, broad hands and oversized Arabic numeral hour markers are all in true cockpit character. For the curious, the Isograph nomenclature is a knowing nod to the unique carbon composite that resides within its Calibre 5 movement – a fittingly innovative touch for a watch that has already won fans the world over.

Baselworld 6 Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520P — Patek Philippe Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520P

Renowned haute horology label Patek Philippe also revealed a new aviation-inspired design at the event – the Alarm Travel Time Ref. 5520P. Its robust, four-crown, pilot-style platinum case stylishly houses the brand’s latest high-precision movement, a slim 6.6mm Calibre AL 30-660 S C FUS, while its all-black dial is home to a 24-hour alarm, a digital alarm display, a second time zone display and a day-night indicator. As intricate as it is innovative, this limited-edition creation is all but guaranteed to be a real collectors’ item.

Baselworld 7 Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin — Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin

A true statement timepiece, though, came courtesy of Chopard in the beguiling form of its L.U.C Flying T Twin. Set to astound in aesthetic terms alone, its painstakingly hand-guilloché dial is fetchingly patterned with the selfsame honeycomb motif that company founder Louis-Ulysse Chopard selected as the maison’s first logo, making this an apt showcase for the brand’s renowned artisanal handcraftsmanship.

Beyond its alluring looks, however, the virtuoso technical skills on show here also merit a special mention. From its ultra-sleek 3.3mm Calibre 96.24-L movement to its flying tourbillon – a first for Chopard – this is haute horology at the very highest end. If that weren’t enough, it is also crafted using only ethically-sourced Fairmined gold for its case, hands and hour markers. By fusing time-honoured techniques with contemporary flair, and mechanical know-how with visually stunning iconography, it stands as a resounding celebration for the watchmaking craft and more than justifies any Baselworld jolly in its own right.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Introducing: The latest additions to Rolex’s superb Oyster Perpetual range

As the much-awaited Baselworld 2019 finally opened its doors this week, haute horology enthusiasts the world over were at the edge of their seats to see exactly what the top names in watchmaking would be unveiling. In particular, anticipation for the latest designs from much-loved Swiss horology pros Rolex were at an all time high. And it did not disappoint, releasing several superb additions to its classic Oyster Perpetual range. Here are three particular designs that merit special mention.

Cosmograph Daytona

Long the favoured watch of racing drivers the world over, the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona first debuted in 1963. The recently-unveiled model, though, is a stark departure from the traditionally ruggedly masculine design aesthetics. Injecting an element of haute joaillerie into the mix, the black lacquer dial boasts champagne-coloured counters and a shimmering diamond surface, while the classic tachymetric scale on the bezel has been replaced entirely by baguette-cut diamonds. Despite its flashy looks, the Calibre 4130 movement within remains at the very cutting edge of haute horology.

Sea-Dweller 43mm

The first Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller first debut over half a century ago as part of Rolex’s bid to appeal to serious deep-sea divers. While the brand had already introduced its first dive watch – the Submariner – this particular model was created to function in even more extreme underwater conditions. The latest design is the model’s first-ever yellow Rolesor gold-Oystersteel incarnation, and outsizes its predecessors with its 43mm diameter. Waterproof to a staggering 1,220m depth, this may just be Rolex’s most advanced tool watch yet.

Datejust 31

Another debutante Oystersteel-yellow Rolesor gold model is the femme-focussed Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31. Targetted at the burgeoning segment of lady collectors, it features an unusual olive-green sunray-finish dial, with its only concession to outré femininity evident in the diamonds adorning its 6 o’clock hour marker. Even more excitingly, the Datejust 31 features an all-new Calibre 2236 movement which is said to offer even more superior performance thanks to deft touches like its silicon Syloxi hairspring.

Jacob & Co unveils the dazzling new Astronomia Maestro at Baselworld

For over 30 years, Swiss atelier Jacob & Co. has captivated watch lovers with its unique ability to seamlessly blend the beautiful design elements of high jewellery and intricate craftsmanship of haute horology into its groundbreaking designs. Nowhere was this long-standing expertise more apparent than at the latest incarnation of Baselworld – the biggest event on the haute horlogerie world’s annual calendar. For this special occasion Jacob & Co. unveiled a new member of its signature Astronomia Tourbillon collection: the Astronomia Maestro.

This dazzling grand complication timepiece not only incorporates the brand’s acclaimed gravitational triple axis tourbillon movement, but also features a minute repeater carillon with elevated spiral gongs.

The jewel in this beautiful timepiece’s crown is the wondrous cosmos-inspired mini-universe housed within its dial. Under the sapphire dome, which resembles a porthole of an interplanetary vessel, one can follow the course of the Earth – a lacquered magnesium globe – as it orbits around the main axis. Juxtaposed next to this movement is the sculpture of an astronaut, floating weightlessly within the Astronomia universe.

Perfectly encapsulating the wonder and beauty of outer space while simultaneously incorporating intricately designed complications, the Astronomia Maestro is, quite literally, out of this world.

Read also: The Best of Baselworld Watches

Baselworld Highlights: Watches that made it, big time

Almost before the annual intrigue that surrounds January’s SIHH watch convention had a chance to die down, the big beast of the horological world was upon us – Baselworld, the one time of year when every true chronogram fan knows exactly where they’ll be. From the thousands of timepieces on show, here’s our round-up of Baselworld highlights.

Given the air of competitive camaraderie that always characterises Baselworld, there is a perennial temptation to toss convention to the wind and to court controversy with something wantonly outré. Thankfully, this was not the case with Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 Grand Feu Enamel. Despite its grandiose nomenclature, this timepiece duly shunned inapt sensationalism in favour of pristine, minimalist lines. And did so to considerable effect.

Available as an ultra-thin 7.45mm special edition, the piece boasted a Grand Feu enamel dial furnished with blued steel hour and minute hands. Taking place of pride at the five o’clock mark was a tourbillon, complete with a small seconds indicator on its axis – the only ostentatious flourish incorporated into this remarkably understated timepiece.

Another notably minimalist model was Jacquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel. Set with an elegant rose gold bezel, its stark black Grand Feu enamel dial served to enhance – rather than detract from – the brand’s signature ‘figure eight’ double-dial layout. The jewel in this particular timepiece’s crown, however, was its shining moon phase complication, neatly adorning the larger bottom dial, which completed the model’s knowing aura of ‘less is more’.

There is no reason, however, why minimalism should be synonymous with formality, with Chopard’s reimagined L.U.C Quattro a clear case in point. While this upgrade still boasts the haute horology house’s legendary precision and attention to detail, it does so with a degree of casual aplomb. This laid-back vibe is particularly manifested in the somewhat playful Arabic numbers set at 3 and 9 o’clock, as well as its unusually jaunty blue strap.

For those more athletically-inclined, Tag Heuer’s Carrera Tête de Vipère may prove the trophy du jour. Marking 55 years since the debut of the Carrera line, this particular incarnation sports a bold midnight blue case, bezel and lugs, while clearly not lacking in the tourbillion, chronograph or chronometer departments. Available solely in a 155-piece limited edition, it’s set to become an instant collectors’ classic.

Baselworld highlights included plenty to entice discerning female watch enthusiasts. One particular example came in the form of Breitling’s Navitimer 1 Automatic 38. Neatly incorporating the brand’s calibre 17 movement, this automatic timepiece features both a bi-rotational slide rule bezel and luminescent Super-LumiNova hour and minute hands housed in a toned-down diameter of 38mm – the perfect sporty statement piece.

For a more understated look, there was Omega’s new De Ville Trésor Quartz 36mm in Sedna Gold. Every inch of this stunning timepiece was imbued with a simple sophistication – from its delightfully delicate diamond-accented Sedna rose gold case and shimmering white opaline dial to its flower design embossed-caseback.

Nestling at the contrary end of the spectrum was Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, a statement wrist-adornment in anybody’s book. The traditional tachymetric scale on the bezel has, in this case, been superseded by multi-hued sapphires, creating an unmissable rainbow effect, while hour markers come set with correspondingly-coloured baguette-cut sapphires. Complete with a diamond-embedded 18-carat Everose gold case, the watch remains unabashedly flirtatiously feminine,

With thousands of the world’s most innovative timepieces once again devoting at Baselworld, singling out just one or two standouts surely short-changes the incomparable showcase. With one-off wonders at every turn and resurgent classics on every stand, a snapshot of the glory that is Baselworld is all that one reviewer could hope to render. It is tribute to the comprehensive brilliance on show, however, that even a brief perusal of Baselworld highlights provides quite so much to marvel at.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Watchmakers show off their latest timepieces at Baselworld

With the ubiquity of smartphones and the unfettered progress of mobile technology, many previously vital products and pieces of personal technology have begun falling by the wayside. Digital cameras are a case in point. Particularly those of the point-and-shoot variety, which have seen sales plummet as mobile phones with built-in cameras have become the norm. Even the almighty iPod – a revolutionary product that seemed irreplaceable in its heyday – has lost favour with consumers increasingly relying on their smartphones for their on-the-go needs. But for true luxury watch aficionados everywhere, no manner of smartphone or Bluetooth-coupled wearable tech will ever fully replicate or replace a timepiece of finely crafted elegance.

Testament to this is the ever-growing popularity of the Baselworld watch and jewellery show. Held every spring in the city of Basel in Switzerland, Baselworld is arguably the highlight of the haute horlogerie and joaillerie calendar. It sees watch and jewellery makers everywhere gather to exhibit their latest creations, and has grown from a handful of exhibitors at its inaugural show almost a century ago to now featuring over 2,000 exhibitors from across the globe. This year is tipped to attract close to 100,000 discerning watch lovers.

We take a look at some of the more noteworthy creations to debut at this year’s show from some of the industry’s more traditional names as well as some more modern ones.

Long synonymous with quality, luxury watches is Omega. As much a status symbol as a watch, Omega has been gracing the wrists of the stylish and famous for centuries. This year they have taken an iconic model and given it a revamp – albeit retaining an unmistakeable classical aesthetic. The Speedmaster is celebrating its 60th anniversary this year and as such, Omega has taken the watch made famous by surviving a trip to the moon, to new heights. Instantly recognisable, the Speedmaster is a benchmark in the world of luxury watches. The new Speedmaster is available in a dynamic duo of models: the simple yet elegant Speedmaster 38, and the superbly functional Speedmaster Racing Master Chronometer.

“For true watch aficionados, no smartphone or wearable technology will replace a timepiece of finely crafted elegance”

Ideal for both men and women, the Speedmaster 38 is made from stainless steel and 18-carat Sedna gold with a leather strap. The watch features a diamond paved bezel complete with tachymeter scale that frames the bi-colour dial with unique oval subdials. Powered by the Omega calibre 3330, the watch comes with Co-Axial technology and a silicon balance spring.

Another iconic timepiece from one of the biggest names in luxury watches is the Rolex Yacht-Master, which has also been given a make-over in time for this year’s Baselworld. The Yacht-Master 40 has been crafted for the first time in Everose Rolesor (a combination of 904L steel and 18-carat Everose gold). Carrying the superlative chronometer certification means you are guaranteed superior performance. Waterproof to 100 metres, the Yacht-Master is tough, reliable and classically refined. Featuring the bi-directional, self-winding calibre 3135, the chronograph has a 48-hour power reserve.

Another watch that has been released in time for Baselworld is the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe by Blancpain, which has a distinctly vintage essence. First presented in 2013, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe range has been extended with the inclusion of the newest Fifty Fathoms model – a 38mm timepiece in a striking shade of blue that recalls the deepest blue oceans.

The steel bezel features a blue ceramic insert while the hour markers are made of Liquidmetal. Note this is not the same stuff that Liquid Metal Guy in Terminator II is comprised of, but rather an alloy prized for its long-term stability. As par for the course for any good diving watch – if we dare be so bold as to mix our sporting metaphors – the Fifty Fathoms has a unidirectional bezel that rotates counter clockwise.

Water resistant to 30 bar (approximately 300 metres), it is powered by the calibre 1150, ensuring an impressive 100-hour power reserve.
Next, we have a timepiece specifically designed for women: the Breguet Classique Phase de Lune Dame 9088. Striking a pure and clean aesthetic with its simple lines and elegant curves, the watch is made of white gold and is sized at 30mm in diameter. The minutes track is made up of tiny stars, together with stylistic fleur-de-lis for the five-minute fractions.

The ceramic dial features a moon-phase aperture at six o’clock. The chronograph is subtly decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds that adorn the bezel and lugs. Housing the Breguet 537L calibre, a self-winding mechanical movement, it is equipped with silicon escapement and balance spring.

From Audemars Piguet comes the new Royal Oak self-winding QEII Cup 2017 limited edition watches, made especially to commemorate the 19th edition of the Queen Elizabeth II Cup – a Group One thoroughbred horse race sponsored by the watchmaker and held in Hong Kong in co-operation with the Hong Kong Jockey Club.

A delicate mix of titanium and platinum, the new editions pay respectful homage to the original Royal Oak timepiece, adhering to the design codes of the Royal Oak collection. Powered by the manufacture self-winding calibre 3120, these special watches have a 60-hour power reserve. The 37mm edition of the new models feature a diamond-set bezel and a total of 40 stunning brilliant-cut diamonds.

Last but most certainly not least is a name that might be relatively new to the world of haute horlogerie but has nonetheless crafted some stunning timepieces. More akin to a work of art than a watch, the Jacob & Co. Astronomia Sky watch is stunningly eye catching and is almost otherworldly in appearance.

Taking a unique approach to time display with the use of ‘satellites,’ this timepiece is strikingly creative. Despite this, it remains very easy to use and set and is as practical as it is beautiful. Sized at 40mm and with a 60-hour power reserve, the watch even displays celestial indicators such as sky and stars as well as a month indicator.

Text: Hans Schlaikier