Ever since Patek Philippe, watchmaker extraordinaire, crafted the world’s first wristwatch – an ornate yellow gold affair with a baguette-shaped, key-wound movement – for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary back in 1868, the use of this rare, valuable metal pretty much became the calling card of haute horology houses for crafting high-end timepieces.
Today, despite the encroachment of more affordable silver and stainless steel materials in the art of horlogerie, yellow gold remains one of the most popular metals to be used in manufacturing sophisticated statement watches. However, the past decade has seen a new challenger rise in the luxury segment, the subtler, gentler rose gold. First brought to the world’s attention in the early 19th century when famed jeweller Peter Carl Fabergé utilised it to create his renowned Fabergé Eggs, rose gold – an alloy crafted from 24K yellow gold, copper and silver – is now seen as a luxurious alternative, one that appeals to both genders in equal measure. Below, we highlight six superlative new designs that use this blushing metal.
Discerning female collectors could do far worse than start their perusals with Breguet’s new Breguet Marine Dame 9518. Attractively fitted with white alligator leather straps, its rose gold case and fluted case band are further enhanced with a diamond-studded bezel. A glistening opaline mother-of-peal dial with rose gold hour, minute and second hands graces its 33.8mm fascia, while the self-winding 591A calibre movement is visible on its transparent caseback.
A more unusually shaped timepiece comes courtesy of haute joaillerie brand Bulgari, with the dial of the latest iteration of its Serpenti Seduttori watch embodying the triangular head of the brand’s iconic Serpent emblem. Crafted almost entirely from rose gold – including its hexagonal-patterned bracelet, case, bezel, crown and folding buckle – the serpentine design is at once beguilingly feminine and beautifully functional. Here, its minimalist white opaline dial is lovingly ringed with diamonds, with the cabochon-cut rubellite on its crown adding a charming touch of red.
Starry-eyed femme fashionistas, meanwhile, may also give Chopard’s all-new Happy Moon a thorough look-over. Part of a 250-piece limited release and crafted from ethically-sourced 18K rose gold, it unabashedly showcases the marque’s precision engineering and aesthetic expertise. Fitted with a COSC-certified 96.25-C calibre movement and taking the stars as its central motif, its blue aventurine dial is dotted constellations as visible from the Northern Hemisphere, with the North Star taking pride of place at 6 o’clock. The snow-set diamonds set on the bezel bestow an aura of delicacy to the timepiece.
Gentlemen collectors are also spoilt for choice when it comes to rose gold specimens of every imaginable timepiece category. Minimalist-inclined enthusiasts, for instance, would understandably be drawn to Baume & Mercier’s new Clifton Baumatic 18K Pink Gold Automatic. Understated elegance is the central appeal here, its white-on-rose gold fascia is enticingly simple, with only a date aperture at 3 o’clock and pink gold hour markers punctuating its dial. The star in its crown is undoubtedly the Baumatic BM13 calibre, its mechanical self-winding movement that offers a staggering 120-hour reserve and innovative antimagnetism features.
Foregoing minimalism for a more athletic appeal is renowned watchmaker Omega in the form of its blue / rose gold / stainless steel interpretation of its Seamaster Diver 300M, fictional superspy James Bond’s preferred wrist adornment (a preference shown in several instalments including Goldeneye and Tomorrow Never Dies). This modern update of the classic dive watch features a crown burnished in Omega’s proprietary rose gold – Sedna gold – with its blue ceramic dial embracing its aquatic motif by featuring laser-engraved waves that mimic the sea. Measuring 42mm in diameter, blue rubber straps round out its sporty sophistication.
Perhaps the ultimate rose gold statement timepiece, though, comes in the form of haute horology marque Vacheron Constantin’s super-slim Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin. Measuring just 8.1mm thick, this intricate design not only comes equipped with a moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, but also boasts a perpetual calendar visible on its blue lacquered dial, all housed in a fetching 18K 5N pink gold case. Powered by a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it 4.05mm-thick Calibre 1120 QP/1 movement, the perpetual calendar mechanism needs no adjustment until the year 2100, ensuring that its rose gold appeal will endure through generations.
Text: Tenzing Thondup