While Hong Kong takes pride – justifiably – in its cosmopolitan nature when it comes to serving world cuisine, there has been a bit of a lamentable oversight so far when it came to finding authentic Peruvian cuisine in the city. But who better to rectify this than Virgilio Martinez Véliz, award-winning Peruvian chef whose restaurant Central in his native country has already bagged the coveted 6th best restaurant at the World’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards?
The iconic chef, however, has had set his sights on Hong Kong for sometime now. He had already collaborated on a four-hands dinner at Amber with Landmark Mandarin Oriental’s Culinary Director Richard Ekkebus. But it is with Ichu Peru – named after a local Peruvian plant – that he brings the heart and soul of Peru right in the middle of Hong Kong, at H Queens.
“Our intention is to replicate the atmosphere of Lima’s local cevicherias,” explains Martinez. “We want to honour Peru’s no-fuss dining culture where the atmosphere is relaxed, the dishes are shared and the recipes highlight fresh ingredients and traditional flavours.”
In keeping with Martinez’s philosophy, the decor of Ichu Peru is fuss-free and comfortable, with Peruvian murals and sculptures lending an air of authenticity to the interiors. However, in the evenings, it’s a tad too dimly lit, making it rather difficult to read the menu. Once your eyes have adjusted though, the menu itself is akin to a gold mine, waiting for its hidden gems to be explored. Chef Martinez’s sophisticated knowledge of Peruvian cuisine is on full display, right from such appetizers as the Pargo al Rocoto featuring thinly-sliced snapper with celeriac, avocado and aji rocoto, and Ceviche Clásico, a punchy dish comprising snapper, choclo, red onion and sweet potato.
However, it is Ichu Peru’s signature starter – the Palta Quemada – a deceptively simple combination of charred avocado, aji limo, tomato and cassava, that reveals Chef Martinez’s complex culinary skills. Equally light and flavourful, it melts in the mouth with a smoky softness, leaving you in eager anticipation of the next spoonful.
Moving on to the mains, one of the must-try dishes would be the inimitable Pez Amazonia – a baked sea bass infused with the smoky aroma of banana leaves and served with tomato, red onion, corn, coriander and lime juice. The freshness of the fish is perfectly complemented with the crunchiness of the corn, and is tied together in harmony with a touch of lime – a dish that, for a change, justifies that oft-misused phrase ‘healthy and hearty’!
The cocktails at Ichu Peru, too, for their part, evoke traditional Peruvian flavours and cater to a wide range of palates – from the refreshingly tangy Vida for those looking for some extra ‘bite’ to the frothy and sweet El Milagro that’s almost like a liquid dessert!
Well, with Hongkongers being famously fickle in their culinary choices, Ichu Peru’s wide range of food and drinks is a place as good as any to start your tryst with Peru.
Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay