Camus Borderies XO Family Reserve review: A tribute to the beautiful Borderies cru

Iconic cognac-maker, House of Camus, has recently launched the new Borderies XO Family Reserve across five cities globally – and Hong Kong takes place of pride among them. To celebrate the occasion, Camus recently hosted a tasting at Pierre in Mandarin Oriental.

Cellar master Patrick Léger tastes the Camus Borderies XO Family Reserve

To understand the full nuances of this particular cognac, however, one has to go as far back as 1863, when the Camus family built their home in the middle of the Cognac region in a vineyard that boasts the most concentration of Borderies cru. This most-sought-after of vines is among the oldest and smallest cru in Cognac, representing less than 5% of total AOC. Not only are they rare, but they are also the most aromatic – thanks to the unique combination of limestone, clay and flint – making Borderies the key ingredient in any blend worth its name. It is on this exceptional land that the Camus family has carried on the legacy of great cognac crafting across five generations.

The new Borderies XO Family Reserve can be seen as a culmination of this rich heritage that has been passed down in the Camus family from generation to generation. Talking about the complexities of the Borderies XO Family Reserve, cellar master Patrick Léger says: “It was a real technical challenge. At every step of the process, each eau-de-vie was fermented, distilled, and aged separately. Some were more mineral while others were rounder, smoother, or more floral. The non- negotiable goal was to preserve the typical features of each eau-de-vie to the greatest extent possible in order to achieve the purest incarnation of the Borderies.”

Camus Borderies XO Family Reserve is best tasted in tulip-shaped glasses

Tasting Notes
Nose: Rich and complex aromas with a perfect balance of floral and fruity, with a hint of vanilla
Palate: Powerful, rich and creamy, revealing an aroma of pastry and subtle spicy notes
Finish: Floral, with violet notes

Price: HK$2,300
Retailers: Wai Shing Wine & Spirits, Wine ‘n’ Things, Kee Hueng Wine Cellar

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Davidoff and Hennessy host exclusive cigar-cognac pairing event

Davidoff and Hennessy joined forces to host an exclusive cigar and cognac pairing event at three Michelin-starred L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon recently. Invited VIP guests were treated to a first taste of the latest offerings from these two prestigious labels.

Among the highlights of the evening were Davidoff’s newly launched 702 series and Winston Churchill Late Hour Cigars, as well as Hennessy’s much-lauded Paradis Imperial. Maurice Richard Hennessy, Global Brand Ambassador and a descendant of the cognac brand’s founding father, was on hand to impart top pairing tips to the gathered diners as well.

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The indulgent affair once again displayed the expertise and attention to detail that have made Davidoff and Hennessy such beloved institutions in their respective fields.

Wine-water-food pairings: Harmonisation tips for beginners

Food and wine pairings are a thing of the past, with gourmands and libation lovers finding a final frontier to conquer. Wine-water-food pairings are the latest thing in a truly grand gastronomic experience – so much so that it has given rise to the first wave of water sommeliers skilled in the arcane rites of harmonisation, the newly-coined term for the process of expert food-wine-water pairings. So here are our harmonisation tips for beginners:

Fresh and fruity white wines – The simple and fragrant characteristics of these wines are best matched with naturally still artesian mineral water, such as ORO.

White barrel-aged wines – The contact with wood enhances the fruity aroma of the wines, making them a perfect pair for a still mineral water, such as Acqua Panna, which has its own light and smooth tones.

Full-bodied red wines –The high tannin content of these wines harmonises well with a sparkling water that has a complex personality of its own, with S.Pellegrino being a good bet.

Rosé wines – Fresh and light rosés are best blended with a still water, such as Nordaq Fresh. If the alcohol content is high, however, ORO or S.Pellegrino sparkling water might be a better fit.

Vintage champagnes – Vintage champagnes and classic sparkling wines must only be complemented with still mineral water. Sparkling water will only add to the fizz, creating an unwanted bloated sensation among the diners.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Eau Dear: Wine-water-food pairings are a mealtime must

While food and wine pairings have been done to death over the years, gourmands and libation lovers may yet have a final frontier to conquer – water. This much-overlooked liquid is finally being recognised as the third crucial component in any truly grand gastronomic experience. So much so, in fact, that it has given rise to the first wave of water sommeliers, H₂O aficionados skilled in the arcane rites of harmonisation, i.e. the newly coined term for the process of wine-water-food pairings.

To date, Jason Kuok is the first and only certified water sommelier in Hong Kong. According to him, “Water is a very important element of any meal. As it can impact on your enjoyment of your chosen food and wine, care should be taken to pair the right food with the right wine and the most appropriate water.”

While it’s tempting to dismiss this as yet another far-fetched fad on the part of the over-dined, there is some scientific(ish) support for the notion. According to Dr Michael Mascha, a US food anthropologist, Americans and Europeans are starting to pay as much attention to the water as to the wine when they sit down to dine. When Ray’s & Stark Bar, an LA-based Mediterranean-style restaurant, launched a 42-page water menu, it saw its water sales soar by 500%.

So, how exactly should wine and water complement one other? According to Giuseppe Vaccarini and Claudia Moriondo, two of Italy’s most renowned wine sommeliers, alternately sipping wine and water should allow the palate to experience a series of overlapping sensations without one overpowering the other. As a rule, they say it’s best to serve still water with white wines or young reds and to match both of these with white proteins, fish, seafood and salads.

In the case of the full-bodied reds wines, these tend to have a bolder personality with a high tannin levels. As a result, they are best paired with rich proteins and S.Pellegrino-style sparkling water, with the liquid’s higher mineral content and light sparkle ideal for rinsing and refreshing the palate.

Whatever your chosen menu, Clément Vachon, Sanpellegrino’s international relations and communication director, says there is always one golden rule – “The water always pairs the wine, not the other way round.”

Expanding upon his belief, he says: “The king of the table is the dish. For centuries, wine pairings have enhanced the dining experience, while water remained the missing part of the trilogy. Now, by properly combining all three, you get the ultimate experience.”

Our recommendations

Bollinger Grande Anée 2007 + Acqua Panna + Tuna Tartare

This wine is endowed with a lovely aromatic fullness, complete with honey flavours and a smooth chalky texture; candied lemon notes and a delicious bitterness, all concluding with a wonderfully refreshing finish. Acqua Panna harmonises well with the wine without overpowering the taste sensations and you can match this with a light tuna tartare or a gavlax of salmon for a truly great accompaniment.

Ornellaia Bolgheri 2013 + S.Pellegrino + Florentine steak

This Tuscan wine boasts a beguiling blend of Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Ornellaia 2013, with its vibrant colour, has a nose of aromatic complexity, thoughtfully structured around a complex fruitiness and spiciness resonant with distinct balsamic notes. Pair with a glass of S.Pellegrino and a protein dish, such as a Florentine steak with a lemon butter sauce.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay

Rare Vintage Macallan Bottles: Spirits of the Age from Pop Art Greats

Two extremely rare vintage Macallan bottles – originally auctioned back in the 1980s – have reappeared on the market after three-decade interval. They will now headline the Bonhams’ Fine and Rare Wine and Whisky sale in Hong Kong later this month.

Macallan-1926-60 year old Sir Peter Blake © Bonhams © Mark French Photography (HK$3,600,000-4,600,000 per bottle)

Encased in specially commissioned cabinets (or ‘Tantaluses’), the 60 Years Old 1926 vintages – a Peter Blake Label and an Adami Label – together make up a hyper- exclusive limited edition of just 24 bottles (12 of each) and are estimated to fetch between US$460,000 – 586,000 apiece.

Commenting on their value, Daniel Lam, Head of Fine Wine and Whisky at Bonhams Hong Kong, said: “These bottles are incredibly rare. The exceptional calibre of the whisky, combined with artwork from two of the towering figures of 20th century pop art – Peter Blake and Valerio Adami – represent a unique marriage of excellence. The sale is a once-in-a-generation opportunity for collectors to acquire this Holy Grail of the Macallan world.”

Macallan-1926-60 year old Valerio Adami © Bonhams © Mark French Photography (HK$3,600,000-4,600,000 per bottle)

For the initiated, Sir Peter Blake and Valerio Adami are among the true pioneers of 20th century pop art. While Blake shot to fame as the designer of the famous Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Heart Club Band Beatles’ cover (yes, the same one that was voted the no.1 album cover of all times by Rolling Stone magazine), Valerio Adami was an Italian artist feted for his comic art style.

Text: Suchetana Mukhopadhyay
Image courtesy: Bonhams Hong Kong

Under-the-radar Burgundy wines are stepping into the spotlight

Amaury Devillard, winemaker and Bourgogne Wine Board member, sheds some light on how a new generation of Burgundy wine producers is making the non-Grand Cru Bourgogne vintages truly unmissable tipples…

With Burgundy the drink du jour for many of Asia’s wine enthusiasts, the finest Grand Cru vintages are increasingly difficult to on the open market. Thankfully, there’s a number of other fine – though oft overlooked – vineyards in Bourgogne, France’s central-eastern region.

To give these lesser-known producers a share of the spotlight, the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) – a non-profit organisation dedicated to promoting the region’s wines – recently staged its third Bourgogne Wine Week. A highlight was One Day for Bourgogne Wines, a splendid tasting session that showcased more than 140 under-the-radar vintages from the length and breadth of the region.

Burgundy native Amaury Devillard on why the region 's wines are better than ever — *Amaury Devillard on why Burgundy wines are better than ever*

How better, then, to get a true appreciation of the wider range of Bourgogne wines than to get the insights of Amaury Devillard, a native Burgundian, a BIVB board member and a winemaker in his own right, courtesy of his family’s Château de Chamirey vineyard?

How would you explain the rising popularity of a wider range of Burgundy’s wines?

I think much of the credit must go to the latest crop of winemakers. In the last 25 years, many young Burgundians have travelled abroad, witnessing winemaking techniques beyond our borders, before returning home, ready to put their new-found skills into practice. Thanks to these pioneers, Bourgogne viticulture has evolved by leaps and bounds. Never before have our wines captured the varying terroirs of Burgundy quite so purely.

Why has buying ‘en primeur’ (before release) become quite such a phenomenon?

I think it’s down to two different factors. Firstly, there’s the weather. Since 2010, conditions have been extreme, ranging from extended frosts and harsh summers. And so, our yield has been very low, which brings us to the second issue – supply and demand.

Even at peak capacity, Bourgogne’s production is only a fraction of Bordeaux’s. So, given the increased demand, buying en primeur has become the best way to ensure you secure your supply of Burgundy.

Should buyers be more adventurous and focus less exclusively on the Grand Cru wines?

Once again, it’s a supply and demand issue. Grand Cru wines are sought after primarily because they are so rare. After all, they represent less than two percent of all Bourgogne production. The shortfall in supply, though, does make it difficult to enjoy Grand Cru on a daily basis, which is why we’re looking to educate wine enthusiasts across Asia as to the wider range of Burgundian wines, not just the premier division, which is exactly why we host events like Bourgogne Wine Week.

Why choose Hong Kong as the venue for this event?

As the fifth largest market in the world for Bourgogne wines, Hong Kong is extremely important to us. Moreover, it’s the gateway to China, a market that’s also of increasing value. Although Chinese wine enthusiasts have traditionally favoured the reds, there’s a surge in interest for whites right now, which is something we really want to capitalise on.

Do you have any tips for the uninitiated when it comes to choosing the best Burgundy has to offer?

If you’re unsure of just which wines to pick, always opt for the tier-two labels of the Grand Cru producers. While it’s not a fool-proof system, it definitely offers a measure of reassurance as to the wine’s likely quality and taste.

Thank you.

Text: Tenzing Thondup
Images: Château de Chamirey

LOUIS XIII collaborates with Pharrell Williams for a song that we can hear only if we care

LOUIS XIII cognac has mastered the art of preserving a century in a decanter. The latest venture by the premium cognac-maker is a collaboration with musical sensation, Pharrell Williams, for a music composition named “100 Years”, which will only be released in 2117!

The song is a creative expression of the delicate relationship between nature and time, and the effect humans have on their environment. Each decanter of LOUIS XIII represents the life achievement of generations of cellar masters, so LOUIS XIII must always think a century ahead.

Pharrell’s exclusive track has been recorded onto a record made of clay from the chalky soil of the Cognac region and will be stored in the cellars of LOUIS XIII in a state-of-the-art safe specially designed by Fichet-Bauche that is only destructible when submerged in water. If sea levels continue to rise due to climate change, scientists project that in 100 years, a portion of the world’s land might be underwater. The only way to guarantee this original piece of music will be heard again in 2117, one century from now, is if we address the tragic consequences of global warming – if we do not change our way of living, future generations will never be able to hear this song. “100 Years” by Pharrell Williams will be out in 2117, but only #IFWECARE.

“I love the fact that LOUIS XIII thinks a century ahead”, said Pharrell Williams. “We should all do the same for the planet. We have a common interest in preserving nature for the future. Each bottle is the life achievement of generations of men and women. It’s all about legacy and transmission.”

According to Ludovic du Plessis, Global Executive Director of LOUIS XIII, “Nature and time are at the heart of what we do. If the environment is unstable, even the greatest cellar master would not be able to compose the exceptional blend that is LOUIS XIII. Global warming is one of the most important issues of the 21st century; with “100 Years” – the song we’ll only hear if we care, we hope to inspire people around the world to take action.”

Olé Mexico: Exploring the hottest Mexican bars in Hong Kong

In Gafencu’s April issue, we shone the spotlight on mezcals, that traditional Mexican tipple that’s captured the hearts of Hong Kong’s beverage cognoscenti (read the article here). Now we bring you a round-up of our favourite Mexican bars in the city so you can sample these long-favoured agave spirits.

COA

Behind a rather unassuming entrance on the steps of Central’s Shin Hing Street lies the first of our favourite Mexican bars – Coa. Helmed by agave aficionado Jay Khan (previously of Foxglove and Dr Fern’s fame), this cosy joint favours artisanal cocktails inspired by the flavours of Mexico.

Recommendation: Horchata de Pistachio – a delicious cocktail balancing Ocho Blanco tequila, homemade horchata (a milky, nutty concoction) and pistachio orgeat.

11 Westside

Another relative newcomer to HK’s nightlife scene, 11 Westside (which we reviewed here) brings that quintessential Cali-Mex (that’s Californian-Mexican) cuisine to the fore. Led by Oaxaca-born Chef Esdras Ochoa a.k.a. the ‘Taco King’, the well-stocked bar offers a variety of tequila and mezcal beverages.

Recommendation: Me Against the World – an unabashedly complex tipple featuring Mezcal Amores, vermouth and a blend of citrus fruits.

Mezcalito

Tucked just beyond Lan Kwai Fong on On Lan Street, Mezcalito is, as its name suggests, dedicated to all things mezcal. The well-crafted cocktails here are accompanied by lovely views of the Central skyline thanks to its perch on the 27th floor, and a perfect way to unwind post-work.

Recommendation: Coralina – a Mexican take on the classic sangria that replaces brandy with tequila reposado.

Brickhouse

Perhaps the oldest entry among our favourite Mexican bars, Brickhouse maintains its standing with Hong Kong’s notoriously fickle bar hoppers. With thumping beats, delicious tacos and a heavy-duty mezcal menu, this late-night LKF hotspot hits all the right notes.

Recommendation: Cubano – a delightfully smoky, citrusy reposado/mezcal/brandy blend that’s not for the faint-of-heart.

Gäelle Goossens of Veuve Clicquot on female trailblazing and 200 years of rosé

As Veuve Clicquot celebrates the 200th anniversary of its first rosé, we chat with winemaker Gäelle Goossens about the brand’s legacy of female trailblazing, and staying competitive two centuries on.

With over two centuries of winemaking under its belt, how has Veuve Clicquot stayed so successfully, and what makes it relevant to today’s market?

Veuve Clicquot has a perfect balance between tradition, modernity and innovation. It’s been at the core of its DNA since its foundation. The excellence of our Champagne, and the motto of Madame Clicquot: “Only one quality, the finest”. Our spirit of innovation, inherited from Madame Clicquot certainly explains how the brand has kept being so relevant over the centuries.

Wine-making has traditionally been a male-dominated sphere. What are the biggest challenges you face as a woman, and do you see that culture changing?

Things are changing. We see more and more women becoming winemakers and wine specialists. The main challenge for tomorrow will be to see more women in the top management of wine company.

Tell us a bit about the newly announced Veuve Clicquot Business Woman award.

The Veuve Clicquot Business Woman Award was first initiated in 1972 to honour and sustain the legacy of Madame Clicquot – one of Europe’s first female entrepreneurs. It is awarded to those who share the same qualities: an enterprising spirit, with the courage and the determination necessary to accomplish her business goals.

Following a detailed consultation and voting process with an esteemed jury – a panel of five exceptional business people, and an advisor – the Veuve Clicquot Business Woman Award Hong Kong will be awarded at a prestigious ceremony in Hong Kong in October 2018.

For rosé -drinking novices, what are the top things to keep an eye out for when drinking rosé?

Rosé champagne is not a sweet wine as a still rosé. It has more fruits, more intensity and more structure. Rosé champagne is an excellent choice when in a restaurant to share with friends, as it can be paired with spicy food, red meat, sauce meal, vegetables, raw tuna, etc.

VCP created the first rosé champagne d’assemblage (blending). We vinify our own pinot noir red wines first. They are deep, tannic, full-bodied, fruity and complex.

Finally, what is your favourite rosé vintage from Veuve Clicquot?

Vintage Rosé 1989. Deep, rich, intense and complex with smoky notes and dry fruits aromas.

Thank you.

High Spirits: Japanese whisky shatters world record at auction

Japanese whisky passed yet another milestone recently when a single bottle of Yamazaki Single Malt Whisky Aged 50 Years NV went for a whopping US$ 298,879 at a recent Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction. Sold for twice its pre-sale estimate, the auction house confirmed that it was the highest price ever commanded by a single bottle of Japanese whisky.

Commenting on this highly positive outcome, Adam Bilbey, Head of Sotheby’s Wine Asia, said: “With the hammer dropping way above the already high estimate, this was an incredible way to kick off our 2018 sales season in Hong Kong. Once again, we saw active bidding from across Asia, all underpinned by the discerning buyers here in Hong Kong.”

Indeed, Japanese whisky is getting something of a reputation for shattering world auction records. Only last year, the world’s largest-known collection of Karuizawa, a premium out-of-production single malt, set a new world record when it went for almost US$1 million, making it the most expensive Japanese whisky collection of all time.

Other impressive performers at the Sotheby’s event included the Macallan Millennium Decanter 50 Year Old 1949, which sold for US$62,922, and the Karuizawa Single Malt Whisky Aged 50 Years 1965, which fetched US$55,057.