Fair Game: Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai

Stunning timepieces showcased at the Watches & Wonders Shanghai exhibition

The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), one of the most prestigious annual watch events in the world, emerged this year with a new identity as the Watches & Wonders fair. Following the cancellation of its inaugural Geneva event February, the organisers took the show on the road to Shanghai’s West Bund Art Centre in September. 11 renowned haute horology brands were in attendance over the five-day watch fair, showcasing enough cutting-edge high-end timepieces to tempt even the most discerning of watch collectors. Below, we highlight seven of the most outstanding models for your perusal. 

iwc portugieser yacht club chronograph gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai
IWC’s Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition ‘Orlebar Brown’

Starting the horological proceedings is IWC’s sporty Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph Edition ‘Orlebar Brown’. Created in partnership with British swimwear label Orlebar Brown, this athletic update to the iconic Portugieser collection features a nautically- inspired blue case, paired with equally sporty blue rubber straps and a co-branded side-fastener buckle. Fitted with an in-house calibre 89361 flyback chronograph movement, its elegant fascia is punctuated with a chronograph hours and minutes subdial at 12 o’clock and a hacking-seconds / date display at the 6 o’clock position. A 68-hour power reserve completes its robust yet sleek appeal. 

 “Watches & Wonders Shanghai showcased enough high-end watches to tempt even the most discerning collectors”

parmigiani fleurier tondagraph gt chronograph gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai
Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Blue by  Parmiagani Fleurier

Another dazzling chronograph that debuted at Watches & Wonders Shanghai was the Tondagraph GT Rose Gold Blue from high-end watch manufacture Parmigiani Fleurier, with this attention-grabbing blue-on-rose gold timepiece, turning traditional watchmaking on its head via a movement organised around a central column wheel, a balance attached to a cross-bridge and a vertical rather than a horizontal clutch. Limited to a release of just 25 pieces, its latest PF071 movement oscillates at 36,000 vibrations per hour, ensuring accuracy to one-tenth of a second. 

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Baume & Mercier’s Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon Phase

An equally compelling haute horological offering came from Baume & Mercier in the form of its new Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon-Phase. Burnished in an attractive blue-white gold motif and powered by an in-house BM14 movement, its elegant lacquered gray dial boasts an eye-catching vertical layout with the day indicator at 12 o’clock and a moon phase subdial – ringed by a date indicator – taking place of pride at the 6 o’clock position. Equipped with a five-day power reserve, this 42mm wrist adornment is the perfect accessory for any debonair gentleman. 

lange sohne tourbograph perpetual honeygold gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai
A. Lange & Sohne’s Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold ‘Homage to F.A. Lange

Not to be outdone, A. Lange & Sohne unveiled its new Tourbograph Perpetual Honeygold “Homage to F. A. Lange” as an ode to its founder, Ferdinand Adolph Lange. A veritable treasure trove of grand complications can be found atop its attractive black-rhodiumed dial, including a tourbillon, a rattrapante chronograph, a moon phase indicator and a perpetual calendar. Measuring 43mm in diameter, its case is crafted from 18K Honeygold, a top-secret proprietary alloy. Limited to a release of just 50 pieces, this is surely a guaranteed collector’s favourite. 

jaeger lecoultre master grande tradition gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai
Jaeger LeCoultre’s Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication

Raising the bar quite literally to the stars, meanwhile, was Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre with the latest iteration of its Master Grande Tradition Grande Complication. The jewel in its crown undeniably the arresting celestial vault – an astronomical complication encompassing an orbital tourbillon tied to a star chart that completes one revolution each sidereal day – that adorns its multi-layered dial. If that weren’t enough, it also comes outfitted with 24-hour indication and the brand’s iconic minute repeater with cathedral crystal gongs. 

roger dubuis excalibur diabolus machina gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai
Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Diabolus in Machina

Inserting an element of the outré to the proceedings was Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur Diabolus in Machina. Here, the large, skeletonised flying tourbillon has been crafted from CarTech Micro-Melt BioDur CCMTM, the marque’s proprietary metal. Measuring a staggering 45mm in diameter, its open-worked dial is further punctuated with oversized Roman numerals as hour markers. A key draw is undoubtedly its minute repeater function, with the gongs chiming at C and G flat reminiscent of the “Diabolus in Musica”, or “the devil in music”, so often touted during medieval times. 

cartier pasha gafencu magazine Fair Game Stunning timepieces at the Watches & Wonders in Shanghai
Cartier’s Pasha de Cartier

Rounding out our list of top timepieces at Watches & Wonders Shanghai is the latest iteration of Cartier’s cult classic, the Pasha de Cartier. First introduced in 1985, this newest incarnation comes in a slew of interchangeable straps, case materials and bezels. The most dazzling of these is a white gold creation that features an attractively open-worked dial with a tourbillon at 6 o’clock, with its 1847 MC automatic movement wholly visible through its transparent sapphire crystal caseback. Rounding out its appeal, 180 shimmering diamonds adorn its bezel, movement, crown and buckle, ensuring that any passing gazes are firmly ensnared. 

 

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Photos: Watches & Wonders     

Time to shine: Hong Kong’s incomparable luxury watch auction scene

The world is undeniably in a state of Covid-19 chaos, with growing unemployment, a spiraling death rate, and no vaccine on the immediate horizon all contributing to depressed economies across the globe, with the retail industry particularly hard-hit by ongoing lockdowns and social distancing measures.
 
Only Watch Charity Auction 

But while retailers across the world shutter their doors or open them only to serve a disappointing trickle of customers, auction houses have become virtual one-stop shopping destinations for people buying luxury goods across all categories, thanks to Zoom previews, online video condition reports, and easy online bidding. One particularly hot category is luxury watches – an industry that in 2018 was valued at some US$6.93 billion – and an equally hot destination is Hong Kong.

Time to shine Hong Kong's incomparable luxury watch auction scene gafencu magazine watches (12)

In truth, Asia’s World City has long held pole position as the world’s biggest luxury watch market, despite boasting just seven million souls. Indeed, the SAR’s insatiable appetite for high-end timepieces has seen the city beat out the USA, Germany and even Switzerland – home of many haute horology labels – to achieve its market leader status. 

Time to shine Hong Kong's incomparable luxury watch auction scene gafencu magazine watches (3)

Hong Kong’s love affair with timepieces stretches back to the 16th century, when Jesuit missionaries first introduced such chronological accessories to the region. Across the intervening centuries, it has in turns been a manufacturer and exporter of watch parts, a hub for watch assembly factories, and finally, at the dawn of the 21st century, as a shopping destination for discerning timepiece enthusiasts. 

Time to shine Hong Kong's incomparable luxury watch auction scene gafencu magazine watches (10)

The past decade has also seen the SAR transform into a huge auction hotspot for the sale of rare luxury timepieces, with leading auction houses like Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Bonhams and Antiquorum all hosting multi-million-dollar auctions in the city. What has resulted is a slew of ultra exclusive – sometimes even unique – watches going under the gavel for astronomical prices and setting new records. 

Time to shine Hong Kong's incomparable luxury watch auction scene gafencu magazine watches

In July alone, Sotheby’s Hong Kong sold a Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” Ref. 6264 for more than US$1.5 million, a record price for that model, and Christie’s sold a rare Patek Philippe Ref. 5033 minute repeater for US$1.95 million. In June, Phillips, in association with Bacs & Russo, drew US$3.6 million for a Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 from the collection of watch industry titan, Jean-Claude Biver. Sotheby’s further made headlines that same month by breaking a record it held since 2018 for most expensive modern Rolex ever sold. The lot was a platinum Rolex Daytona ‘Zenith’ – a one-off creation featuring a Lapiz Lazuli dial – which went under the hammer at HK$25.3 million, five times its estimate.

Only Watch Charity Auction

Christie’s Hong Kong’s decision to differentiate it from the rest of the pack by offering it with its very own “The Masterpiece” sale led to a momentous occasion that birthed a new holder for the most expensive wristwatch ever sold in Asia at the auction house’s Autumn Auctions 2019, where the very first day of proceedings saw a rare 66-year-old pink gold 1953 Patek Philippe Ref. 2523 wristwatch getting sold for HK$70.2m,  smashing last year’s record for the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction in Asia.

“Hong Kong has been the world’s biggest watch market for over a decade”

Despite the coronavirus pandemic – as well as stiff competition from other auction hotspots like Geneva, New York and London – Hong Kong’s reputation for being a true haute horology hub shows no signs of abating. Take, for instance, the November 30 “Ruby Collection” auction, a Hong Kong sale of Patek Philippes from an esteemed single-owner private collection, highlighted by a pair of possibly unique (no one has ever seen them before) models: a perpetual calendar and minute repeater/tourbillon, both with ruby hour markers and estimated to sell for less than US$1 million each. The collection also includes astronomical watches, including the ultra-complicated Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002, with 12 complications, estimated to fetch from US$1 million to US$1.5 million. 
 
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With countless luxury watch auction records set in the past year in Hong Kong, and with so many upcoming events to further enhance its reputation, it seems that neither its recent troubles or the coronavirus pandemic can even dent Asia’s World City’s reputation as one of the go-to auction hubs for discerning watch collectors seeking rare, otherwise unfindable statement timepieces of yesteryears. 

Inner Vision: Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces

As true watch enthusiasts already know, the movements of any high-end timepiece are paragons of precision engineering, painstakingly crafted from hundreds of disparate parts to produce a mechanism far greater than the sum of its parts. Unlike most of wristwatch history, the past few decades have seen the rise of an enticingly open-worked aesthetic – that of the transparent skeleton dial. The mechanical wonders of these intricately-designed movements are no longer hidden beneath the dazzling dials that draw the eyes.
 
Below, we highlight seven latest models that merit your full attention. 
Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches
PanoLunarTourbillon – Limited Edition by Glashütte Original

First to the table is Glashütte Original’s all-new PanoLunarTourbillon – Limited Edition. Part of a 25-piece limited release, this particular iteration features a platinum case and a stunning hand-engraved dial with an off-centre small-seconds subdial boasting skeletonised hour and minute hands, an elegant moon phase indicator and a beautiful flying tourbillon at 7 o’clock. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the automatic Calibre 93-12 movement’s off-centre skeletonised rotor, an oscillating mass crafted from 21K gold. Emblazoned across a screw-mounted stainless steel plaque are the words “Flying Tourbillon”.

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches
Piaget’s Altiplano Ultimate Concept

Another stunning skeleton design comes from high-end marque Piaget in the form of its Altiplano Ultimate Concept. As to be expected,  the brand boasts the thinnest mechanical watch in the world, this new creation measures just 2mm in depth. In spite of its minimal footprint, this mechanical standout comprises 167 individual components. Due to space constraints, the traditional hour-and-minute dial has been innovatively reworked and placed under the bridge. Here, the hour hand has been replaced with an off-centre rotating disc, while the minute hand works in the usual way. 

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HYT’s H5 Red

 

A more outré open-worked design comes from independent watchmaker HYT’s new H5 Red. Combining art, precision mechanical engineering and the brand’s signature fluid technology – which uses liquids flowing through ultra-thin capillaries to portray time – this limited-edition release has been burnished with an eye-catching red motif. Beneath its domed sapphire crystal case of this mammoth 48.8mm creation lies the skeleton dial, enticingly ringed red fluidic hour markers. Perforated red rubber straps complete its avant-garde appeal. 

Spirit of Big Bang MECA-10 Black Magic by Hublot

Swiss watch manufacturer Hublot, meanwhile, is embracing the digital age whole-heartedly with its limited-release Spirit of Big Bang MECA-10 Black Magic. Targetting its legion of China ‘Hublotistas’, just three pieces of this attention-grabbing skeletonised timepiece were released, exclusively through the Hublot WeChat Member Centre. Featuring an eye-catching rectangular design that is iconic of the Spirit of Big Bang collection, it is powered by a new HUB1233 Calibre movement that offers a staggering 10-day power reserve. 

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches (5)
Free Bridge Infinity Edition by Girard-Perregaux

A similarly black-dominant open-faced creation comes from Girard-Perregaux in the form of its Free Bridge Infinity Edition. Crafted from steel but finished with a layer of extra-durable DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) coating, this 44mm wrist adornment is burnished with skeletonised dauphine-style hands, while the hour markers lie suspended above the skeleton dial proper. Adding a dash of colour to its aesthetic are the pink gold hour markers that ring its fascia. 

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches
Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton

Also utilising a black-on-rose-gold motif is the latest revamp to Jaquet Droz’s much-loved Grande Seconde Skelet-One. Stunningly minimalist, its stark design is transparent from both sides, drawing all attention firmly to the fully suspended gear train, skeletonised bridges and open-worked oscillating weight. This latest iteration also comes fitted with plasma ceramic – a first for the brand – which imbues it with robustness as well as a unique metallic glow. 

“Skeleton dials allow you to view the marvellous movements of these watches”

Inner Vision Skeleton dials reveal the intricate inner workings of these outstanding timepieces gafencu magazine time watches
Vacheron Constantin’s 41.5mm Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton

Rounding out our list of outstanding skeleton dial watches is Vacheron Constantin’s 41.5mm Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton. Surely a tribute to the brand’s renowned skill in crafting the most intricate of wristwatch designs, it comes replete with a perpetual calendar and moon phase indicator powered by the cutting-edge Calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 movement. Housed in a remarkably slim 8.1mm-thin pink gold case, this statement timepiece sets a new benchmark for the complexity allowed by such open-worked designs. 

 

New Rolex 2020 Novelties: Submariner, Sky-Dweller, Datejust 31 and more…

After much anticipation, luxury watch manufacture Rolex has unveiled its latest designs for 2020, and they truly do not disappoint. Four iconic models from the Swiss haute horology brand’s Oyster Perpetual collection have been revamped as part of the Rolex 2020 Novelties, including the Submariner, the Sky-Dweller, the Datejust and entry-level Oyster Perpetual.

Rolex 2020 Novelties - Sky-Dweller

Sky-Dweller

Rolex’s signature world-time Sky-Dweller watch is back in three new iterations – yellow gold with a black dial, Everose gold with a white dial, and Everose gold with a chocolate brown dial. For the first time, it comes fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet, an innovative elastomer strap bequeaths it a more athletic appeal, replete with a power reserve of 72 hours.

Rolex 2020 Novelties - Submariner

Submariner

Eight new versions of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date are also part of the Rolex 2020 Novelties, all redesigned with a slightly larger 41mm case and remodelled bracelet. The latter comes fitted with a calibre 3235 movement, while the former is burnished with the all-new calibre 3230 launched just this year.

Rolex 2020 Novelties - Datejust

Datejust 31

A dazzling array of new Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 creations have been unveiled, all crafted from white Rolesor and featuring a variety of diamond-set and fluted bezels. Powered by a calibre 2236 movement, it comes in a buyer’s choice of aubergine, mint green, white lacquer or dark grey dials.

Rolex 2020 Novelties - Oyster Perpetual

Oyster Perpetual

Rounding out the Rolex 2020 Novelties are two new sizes have been introduced to Rolex’s entry-level Oyster Perpetual range. The first is a larger 41mm edition – available with a silver or bright black dial – while the second comes in the form of a more delicate 36mm avatar, replete with  a staggering array of lacquer dial hue options, including candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green. Both are fitted with the all-new calibre 3230 movement.

Blue hued: Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces

Blue-dialed watches, timepieces boasting a cerulean face, were once regarded merely as a passing fad, eschewed by haute horology brands as being somewhat inferior to their sleeker white- and black-fascia’d brethren. 

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But a change has befallen the industry of late, with blue-dial watches now eagerly embraced by discerning collectors, who see them as accessories to be sported proudly, ones that impart their wearers with an aura of je ne sais quoi. The preferences of these style setters have not gone unnoticed, with high-end watch manufactures rising to the occasion by releasing a slew of sleek, blue-hued iterations of some of their iconic designs. Among them, the seven below are some of the latest standouts. 

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces omega constellation 2.9mmOmega’s Constellation 29mm with aventurine dial

Ladies in search of a discreet blue-dialed design could do far worse than give Swiss luxury maison Omega’s latest aventurine-dial Constellation 29mm a thorough perusal. Here, its slender body is delicately punctuated with a diamond-set bezel and hour markers, all playing a perfect foil for the beautiful aventurine dial beneath, further enhanced by the buyer’s choice of yellow gold, Sedna rose gold or stainless steel case straps. 

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces royal oak selfwinding 34mmRoyal Oak Selfwinding 34mm by Audemars Piguet

Similarly utilising a diamond-set bezel to enhance a blue-dial design is Audemars Piguet’s latest Royal Oak Selfwinding 34mm. One of four new avatars in the 34mm range, it boasts an attractive blue-grey “Grande Tapisserie” – a signature hand-guilloché square-cut pattern – dial that comes fitted with a date aperture at 3 o’clock. Underneath beats a Selfwinding Calibre 5800 movement, with a delicate stainless steel bracelet rounding out its sophisticated appeal. 

Blue-dial watches are now embraced by collectors as true statement timepieces”

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces royal oak Ulysse Nardin Diver Chronograph 44m
Ulysse Nardin’s Diver Chronograph 44m Hammerhead Shark Limited Edition

Gentlemen collectors are also spoilt for choice when it comes to stunningly intricate blue-dial creations. Take, for instance, the nautically-themed Diver Chronograph 44mm Hammerhead Shark Limited Edition from high-end watch manufacture Ulysse Nardin. Created to celebrate the partnership between the brand and shark conservation non-profit OCEARCH, this 300-piece limited edition sees a hammerhead shark lovingly engraved on the caseback, while its blue-dominant dial and straps are enhanced with bold red accents throughout. 

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces Audemars Piguet
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph

For a more formally sophisticated aesthetic, a good place to start is the latest ‘ocean deep’ version of Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Selfwinding Chronograph. Measuring 41mm in diameter, the 18K pink gold case perfectly offsets its stunning smoked blue lacquer dial. This, in turn, plays host to a small seconds subdial, hour and minute hands and the flyback chronograph. Blue hand-stitched alligator leather straps complete its cerulean aesthetic. 

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces chanel monster blue edition
Chanel’s Monsieur Blue Edition

Also joining the fray of blue-dialed watches is the new Monsieur Blue Edition from luxury label Chanel. Part of a limited release of just 55 pieces, this exclusive design houses the brand’s first-ever in-house manufactured movement that powers the jumping hour and minute retrograde complications proudly punctuating its dark blue fascia. A white gold case and matte blue straps round out its sleek appeal.

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Memovox

An even more intricate design comes from Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre, whose expertise in crafting complications is wholly evident in the new Master Control Memovox. An homage to the brand’s original 1950 Memovox, it resurrects the design’s classic combination of alarm and date displays on a silver sunray-brushed ring on a deep blue dial. Visible through its transparent caseback is the self-winding Calibre 956 movement, which also powers the Memovox’s iconic ‘school bell’ alarm chime. 

Blue hued Exploring the appeal of cerulean-faced statement timepieces Star Legacy Orbis
Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum by Montblanc

For the well-heeled jetsetter, though, there is perhaps no better blue-faced companion than the new Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum from renowned German marque Montblanc. This elegant, intricate yet easily legible world-time device allows wearers to check times in multiple locations at a glance. Taking its international motif to heart, at its centre lies the North Pole, with the map of the Northern Hemisphere radiating outwards. It’s an attractive design, one that fully utilises blue tones to capture our planet in one dial, and aptly demonstrates the appeal of cerulean-fronted timepieces.  

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch: A limited-edition release

Intricate, sophisticated watches have been something of a staple in the blockbuster Kingsman series, and the latest instalment – The King’s Man, set to release in Hong Kong threatres come September 17th – looks to be no different. To fill in the time until the movie releases, though, haute horology enthusiasts can have something of a sneak peek courtesy of a special partnership between luxury watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre and MR PORTER, the online fashion portal dubbed the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch. 

Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch: A limited-edition release

Available exclusively on MR PORTER, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch actually features as part of the upcoming motion picture’s costume collection. With The King’s Man set to transport audiences some 100 years into the past to the founding of the Kingsmen agency, the wrist candy is set to be limited to a release of just 100 pieces. Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch: Just 1.85mm thick

Similarly looking to its past, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new design harks back to a 1907 pocket watch predecessor named ‘Couteau’, or ‘knife’ in French, and is equally sleek and slim at just 1.85mm thick. Fitted with an in-house calibre 849 movement, the Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch is available now until September 6th. 

Limited-edition Master Ultra Thin Kingsman Knife Watch

Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum: The world in one watch

To say that a well-chosen watch is an apt reflection of its wearer is an understatement indeed. And for the well-heeled jetsetter, there’s no better chronographical companion than a world-time watch. For those in search of just such a timepiece, fear not, for German luxury label Montblanc has just unveiled the latest iteration of its beloved Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum.

Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum two versions

First launched in 2014, the Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum has built a reputation for being an elegant, intricate yet easily legible world-time device, one that allows its wearer to check the time in multiple locations with just one glance. For the 2020 version, Montblanc has pulled out all the stops to draw attention firmly on the dial. At its centre lies the North Pole, with the map of the Northern Hemisphere radiating outward from it, enveloped in gently undulating guillochéd waves. The waves are two-toned, each representing day or night in a whopping 24 time zones, as etched into the circumference of the dial.

Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum and other watches

The Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum, which perfectly blends beautiful form with unquestionable function, comes in two avatars – a stainless steel version with blue dial and Sfumato alligator leather straps, and a 500-piece limited-release rose gold iteration with brown dial and matching Sfumato alligator leather straps.

Loving Butterfly Automaton: A stunning new timepiece from Jaquet Droz

Ever since watchmaker Pierre Jaquet-Droz created his first automata mechanisms back in the late 18th century, these jaw-dropping, precision engineered creations have been a significant part of the illustrious history of the haute horology label he founded, Jaquet Droz. Now, 280 years after its foundation, the brand has unveiled the latest iteration of  one of these dazzling designs – the Loving Butterfly Automaton.

The Jaquet Droz Loving Butterfly Automaton

First launched in 2017, the Loving Butterfly Automaton has seen several different avatars across the years in a variety of dials, including onyx, mother-of-pearl and aventurine. This latest model, though, plumbs the depths of Mother Earth’s history to create a dial lovingly crafted from Chinchilla Red, petrified wood dating back some 140-180 million years in far-eastern Australia.

The Jaquet Droz Loving Butterfly Automaton 2

Inspired by an artwork titled Le Papillon Conduit Par l’Amour, which was sketched by The Draughtsman – an automata created by Henri-Louis Jaquet-Droz back in 1774 – this latest 43mm timepiece depicts a backdrop of a golden forest through which the chariot-riding Cherub and the Butterfly meander.

The Jaquet Droz Loving Butterfly Automaton 3

Here, the haute horlogerie label’s expertise in automata comes literally to life, with the butterfly’s wings fluttering as if about to take flight, and the chariot wheels turning in unison, all combining to create the optical illusion of life on the dial, an effect further enhanced by the 3D-effect of the hand-engraved 18K red gold applique work.

The Jaquet Droz Loving Butterfly Automaton 4

Just 28 pieces of this shining example of high-end watchmaking will be produced, and part of the proceeds of the Loving Butterfly Automaton will generously be donated to reforestation efforts across the world, and in Australia in particular, where wildfires have devastated the country. To find out more, visit this website.  

Pelagos LHD: Latest left-hand iteration of iconic Tudor watch unveiled

The Pelagos – Swiss watchmaker Tudor’s iconic diving watch – has for decades been among the most beloved ocean-going timepieces amongst discerning collectors and military outfits across the globe. In 2017, though, the brand sought to widen the appeal of this unique design even further by creating a dedicated ‘LHD’, or ‘left-hand drive’, avatar. 

Tudor Pelagos LHD

This thoughtful titanium-cased, 42mm addition to the Tudor back catalogue meant the watch could be worn on the right wrist, with left-handed folks easily able to access the winding system placed at the 9 o’clock position. 

Tudor Pelagos LHD dial

Now, the Tudor Pelagos LHD has been gifted yet another updated iteration, one that sees the signature left-handed features further enhanced by the addition of a new dial, replete with an alternatingly coloured day display, and the ‘Pelagos’ logo emblazoned in red at 6 o’clock. Under the hood, meanwhile, beats the in-house MT5612-LHD Manufacture movement, while its caseback proudly displays the unique production number of this lovely numbered series. 

Tudor Pelagos LHD with bracelets

Waterproof to 500m and fitted an automatic helium escape valve, the newest interpretation of the Pelagos LHD isn’t just a fitting homage to the innovative mechanical dive watches of bygone decades, but an apt acknowledgement of the unique requirements of watch collectors today. 

Fairer Secs: Making time for the ladies with these femme-focused timepieces

In the grand scheme of things, it wasn’t all that long ago that women’s watches were something an afterthought, largely uninspired designs with only the most basic of functions. They were, indeed, poor relations to the ever-more stunning, complex and precise pieces that constituted chap-oriented chronometers. This was, of course, because the majority of horological houses were solely preoccupied with churning out macho statement timepieces in the belief that men would always be the primary purchasers of high-end horological items.

Best of femme-focused timepieces

That, of course, has all changed over the course of the last 10 years, with the more elegant lady watch-loving collectors now accounting for a significant proportion of international timepiece sales. As a consequence, the watchmaking industry has risen to the challenge of reinventing the outdated design aesthetics and mechanics that once characterised the watches-for-women sector. Indeed, gone are the days when petite, nondescript wrist accessories were deemed to suffice. In their place is a new generation of intricate, chronologically advanced mechanisms that are more than a match for their male counterparts in terms of stature. Of these, we’d recommend six femme-focused timepieces for your particular perusal…

Femme-focused timepieces - Breguet Marine Dame 9518
Breguet Marine Dame 9518

First up is Breguet, with its all-new Marine Dame 9518 encapsulating a cool aquatic aesthetic. This is largely thanks to its beautifully hand-guillochéd wave-motif blue mother-of-pearl dial, fetchingly enhanced with a diamond-set bezel. Under the hood, the balance spring, escape wheel and lever have been ably crafted from ultra-lightweight silicon, with the self-winding Calibre 591A movement – visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback – extending to powering a date indicator. Water resistant to 50m, blue leather straps complete its memorably maritime appeal.

Femme-focused timepieces - IWC Portofino Automatic 34
IWC Portofino Automatic 34

Another unusual design comes courtesy of renowned Swiss watchmaker IWC in the form of its defiantly distinct Portofino Automatic 34. Boasting an 18K 5N gold case ringed with 92 diamonds, its dial is all entrancingly silver-plated and fetchingly embossed, bestowing upon it a glamorously glittering sheen. Powering this 34mm style icon is a Calibre 35100 movement, complete with a 42-hour power reserve. Four other fresh-out-of-the-workshop models of the Portofino 34 are also available, all with an easy quick strap change system, giving wearers the option of matching a different look to their particular mood.

Femme-focused timepieces - Zenith Elite Moonphase
Zenith Elite Moonphase

Looking more aloft for inspiration, meanwhile, is Swiss manufacturer Zenith’s Elite Moonphase. With its silvery white dial burnished with a sunray-patterned motif, it comes neatly punctuated with a small running seconds hand at the nine o’clock slot. Housed in a slimly-elegant rose gold case and ringed with a diamond-set bezel, the jewel in its particular crown is undoubtedly its blue six-o’clock-set moonphase indicator.

Femme-focused timepieces - Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Duetto
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Duetto

In a departure from the usual circular case scenario, Jaeger-LeCoultre opted for a rectangular frame for its new Reverso One Duetto. Taking its inspiration from an earlier ’30s innovation, this red-hued hour-tracker was conceived with flexibility very much in mind. Its front face, restrained yet refined, is just about perfect for everyday wear, while its reverse side is all opulent elegance, led by a shimmering burgundy lacquered dial with the hour markers stretching outwards sunray-style.

Femme-focused timepieces - Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart
Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart

Similarly opting for a bold scarlet style is the delicate Lady 8 Petite Ruby Heart, the latest offering from Jaquet Droz. Available in a limited edition of just 28, it measures a mere 25mm in diameter, but its diminutive dimensions are more than made up for by the intricacies of its design. Ringed with diamonds and set in a rose gold case, this alluring piece of rococo wrist enhancement is crafted in the brand’s iconic figure-eight form. Its lower half is all minimal grace, with its ruby heart dial featuring solely hour and minute hands. The upper segment, by contrast, is all whimsical flourish, while housing a ruby ball bearing that swivels freely in line with any movement of the wrist.

Femme-focused timepieces - Panthère de Cartier Watch
Panthère de Cartier Watch

In the coveted number six slot on our list of femme-focused timepieces comes one of the most outré lady’s timepiece currently on offer – Cartier’s all-new Panthère de Cartier Watch, a tribute to the marque’s much-feted twin expertise in fashioning fine jewellery and watchmaking. The watch proper – a 22mm wide yellow gold case with a gem-set bezel and diamond hour marker – comes mounted with the inevitable bejewelled panther, an iconic Cartier emblem since 1914. Arresting, attention-grabbing and unabashedly conspicuous, it stands as an apt homage to the indomitable spirit of womankind.