Jacob & Co, the renowned Swiss watchmaker, hosted an exclusive exhibition at the Prince Club earlier this month. The stars of the show were stunning timepieces from its intricate Grand Complication Masterpieces collection.
Haute horology enthusiasts were afforded an opportunity to see these models first-hand, with Jacob & Co designer Luca Soprana on hand to elaborate on their construction and designs. See our exclusive video coverage of the event above.
Omega celebrated the local launch of the reimagined De Ville Trésor collection and the opening of the brand’s twelfth corporate boutique in Hong Kong last week, in the presence of Raynald Aeschlimann, CEO and President of Omega; Kevin Rollenhagen, Managing Director of The Swatch Group (HK) Ltd.; Jimmy Mak, Brand Manager of Omega Hong Kong and one of Asia’s leading actresses Song Hye-kyo.
Located in the heart of the city’s financial and shopping district, the new boutique covers an area of 128 square meters on the ground floor of Central Building with an exquisite façade and main entrance on Pedder Street. Visitors will immediately feel an intimate and luxurious atmosphere as they browse the brand’s full range of products.
The new De Ville Trésor collection offers a classic design with a truly modern edge. Available in either 39mm or 36mm sizes, each model is distinguished by its narrow case. In all models, diamond paving curves along each side of the case and a single diamond is set within the crown.
In addition to the nine De Ville Trésor timepieces presented from the main collection, guests were given a preview of three new 36 mm jewellery pieces. A Garnet model with a luxurious bold red colour on the dial and leather strap; an 18K Canopus Gold model with a beautiful blue Aventurine dial; and an 18K Canopus Gold watch paved with baguette-cut diamonds.
As truly unique touch features on each Trésor model in the form of a special mirrored caseback with a “Her Time” design.
As a tribute to the women who inspired its creation, each model shines with its own personality, distinguished by a diverse range of materials and colours.
For more information please visit, www.omegawatches.com or call (852) 2518 9883
Address: Shop 3-6, G/F Central Building, 1-3 Pedder Street, Central, Hong Kong
Following its premier at Baselworld 2018, Patek Philippe showcased its entire collection of the 2018 rare handcrafted timepieces at the Salons on Rue du Rhône, Geneva, in April .
Highlighting fifty exceptional creations including dome table clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches (some with minute repeaters), the 2018 collection pays tribute to a suite of rare handcrafts manifested by an extensive range of creations and inspired from a variety of sources.
Engraving, for example, is the most distinguished craft in the service of watchmaking. For example, “The Galleon” pocket watch with back in low-relief hand engraving where the epic conquest of the oceans, so intimately linked to the rise of horology, comes to life on the engraved back of this unique piece in white gold
Among the Grand Feu enameling techniques, cloisonné enamel – with its colour cells enclosed by thin gold wires – enjoys prominence on many dome table clocks. This applies to the “Cubist Fantasy” model, for example, with its cubistic color ornaments, and to other unique pieces with themes ranging from nature to the fine arts.
Allowing its creativity to roam free, the Genevan manufacturer presents several ‘mixed-technique’ pieces that combine a variety of artisanal skills. One example is the “Italian Scenes” which boasts cloisonné enamel dials on manually guilloched backgrounds.
The Genevan brand is also committed to further evolving such skills and broadening the portfolio by refining new crafts such as wood micromarquetry or combining several techniques to create breathtaking works of art.
The 2018 exhibition also showcased two new models from the current Patek Philippe collection including the limited-edition Golden Ellipse, commemorating the 50th anniversary of this iconic watch and the new Ref 5532 World Time Minute Repeater that always strikes local time. The center of its dial is adorned with a cloisonné enamel depiction of the Lavaux wine-growing region overlooking the shores of Lake Geneva.
Much like every year, the 2018 masterpieces are the result of an intensive involvement with tradition and innovation and are presented by Patek Philippe with a rich palette of one-of-a-kind treasures and limited editions that meld sublime craftsmanship with the ultimate in creativity and aesthetics.
For more information visit, www.patek.com
Perpetual calendars have long been a fixture in the world of haute horology. In fact, their very longevity has led to many of the more jaded collectors eschewing them in favour of something a little more ostentatious or outré. This is only to be regretted. As any true lover of precision time pieces will tell you, the perpetual calendar is among the finest distillations of the watchmaker’s art.
Unlike annual calendar complications, the perpetual’s claim to fame is that, as well as expertly keeping track of the day, date and month, it also factors in leap years as well. In the case of some of the very finest models, they may not need to be adjusted for centuries.
Given its key role in the mechanism’s evolution – the brand was the first to miniaturise the movement to fit a wristwatch – it is only fitting that Patek Philippe maintains an admirable range of perpetual calendar timepieces. Foremost among these is the 5270P Perpetual Calendar Chronograph with Salmon Dial, an all-new platinum-crafted iteration of its benchmark 5270 design.
While the watch’s salmon pink hue evokes a certain sepia-toned nostalgia, its case conceals a complication of cutting-edge complexity. As well as the perpetual calendar, it comes with an additional six patented chronograph innovations, including a tachymeter scale and a 30-minute counter.
Again giving its own heritage a knowing nod, IWC’s new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition ‘150 Years’ is a classic Portugieser watch crafted in the spirit of the brand’s Jubilee collection. Outfitted with an in-house calibre 52615 movement, boasting a seven-day power reserve, this particular perpetual calendar is said to require no adjustment until 2010. Clearly one to bequeath.
Not to be outdone, Chopard’s offering is the L.U.C All-in-One, a watch with truly grand complications that features 14 mesmerising function, including a perpetual calendar sub-dial set in the upper right corner of its stylish guilloché dial. With the option of rose gold with a nickel face or platinum with a grey-blue face, the watch comes in a strictly limited edition of 10.
Another hand guilloché design that just cannot be overlooked is Breguet’s Marine Équation Marchante 5887. Its integral perpetual calendar mechanism is here complemented by a running equation of time and a 60-second tourbillon, all powered by a self-winding calibre 581DPE movement. Staying true to the collection’s overall maritime motif, the date hand features an anchored tip, while its hour marker sits atop a ‘ship wheel’ setting.
For those hankering for something a little more blue, A. Lange & Söhne recently unveiled the 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar Handwerkskunst, complete with a blue-enamelled white gold dial. The face comprises four recessed sub dials – a perpetual calendar (accurate until 2100), a day-date, a moon phase indicator and a split-second chronograph – all set against a series which also of painstakingly0engraved star accents.
For those looking for a more unusual take on the classic perpetual, Glashütte Original’s Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition certainly merits a degree of perusal. Featuring a skeletonised metal face encircled by matte grey edging, it’s a near-genius blend of the complex and the minimalist and only available in a 100-piece limited edition.
Containing with the more contemporary takes on this venerable innovation, MB&F’s Legacy Machine Perpetual Ti has, as you might expect from such a notoriously avantgarde marque, opted for an ultra-modern approach. The resulting limited-edition model sports a shimmering blue-green dial in a titanium case, beautifully counterpointed by a remarkable open-face design. The perpetual calendar and host of other complications come judiciously set above a Legacy Machine signature floating balance, hovering tantalisingly below a domed glass case.
The floating balance design represents a beguiling evolution of the perpetual calendar, with an extended lever running across the complication, via the central axis, functioning as a central control. By default, the calendar assumes each month has 31 days, leaving it to the lever-activated mechanism to automatically skip ahead when only 30 or 28 are actually on offer.
Although there are clearly a number of brands keen to celebrate the past stylings of the perpetual calendar, it could be that the LM Perpetual Ti offers the best glimpse of its likely future. With haute horology never one to hasten evolution, it could be that any true transformation could take another 250 years. Those lacking a perpetual calendar function should perhaps set their watches accordingly.
Text: Tenzing Thondup
For over 30 years, Swiss atelier Jacob & Co. has captivated watch lovers with its unique ability to seamlessly blend the beautiful design elements of high jewellery and intricate craftsmanship of haute horology into its groundbreaking designs. Nowhere was this long-standing expertise more apparent than at the latest incarnation of Baselworld – the biggest event on the haute horlogerie world’s annual calendar. For this special occasion Jacob & Co. unveiled a new member of its signature Astronomia Tourbillon collection: the Astronomia Maestro.
This dazzling grand complication timepiece not only incorporates the brand’s acclaimed gravitational triple axis tourbillon movement, but also features a minute repeater carillon with elevated spiral gongs.
The jewel in this beautiful timepiece’s crown is the wondrous cosmos-inspired mini-universe housed within its dial. Under the sapphire dome, which resembles a porthole of an interplanetary vessel, one can follow the course of the Earth – a lacquered magnesium globe – as it orbits around the main axis. Juxtaposed next to this movement is the sculpture of an astronaut, floating weightlessly within the Astronomia universe.
Perfectly encapsulating the wonder and beauty of outer space while simultaneously incorporating intricately designed complications, the Astronomia Maestro is, quite literally, out of this world.
Read also: The Best of Baselworld Watches
As the son of renowned supermodel Cindy Crawford, Presley Gerber is no stranger to the world of fashion and haute horology. But late last year, the up-and-coming model and photographer made his own mark on the world by being named the newest OMEGA brand ambassador. Proudly touting the newest OMEGA Railmaster – the latest incarnation of a 60-year-old legacy model that has thrilled watch lovers for decades – Presley Gerber speaks candidly about being raised by famous parents, his passion for the arts, and why OMEGA watches hold such a precious place in his heart.
What’s the best fashion or career advice you’ve had from your mum (Cindy Crawford)?
From my mom, best career advice? Don’t do it unless you want to, because if you don’t have your heart in it, it’s going to turn out not very good.
You’ve been both a model and a photographer. Which do you prefer? And how does social media help you express your creativity?
I can’t actually say I prefer either, I think it totally depends. I feel that both are equally as fun for me. They both offer so many opportunities, and you can kind of explore your mind with everything. So both are great and I can’t choose one. As far as social media helps, yeah, you can throw anything you take – or that picture of you- and put it on.
How does a watch help you express your personal style? Do you think a watch is still relevant for young men?
I absolutely think a watch is still relevant for young men. I think, for guys at least, I don’t wear a lot of jewellery, but a watch I typically will have one, not just to tell the time obviously, I have a passion for them, buy yeah I definitely think the young crowd is catching back on to the trend.
And what is it about OMEGA watches that you like?
OMEGA watches are hands down the best. That’s kind of the way to go, you have to. I mean, I love them.
Where does your style inspiration come from? Do young males tend to look at upcoming trends, or do you also look to the past, such as classic films and musicians etc?
You know, my inspiration is kind of always from my dad, so I can’t really say from the broad perspective of all young men, but sure if look up to old musicians, anyone you have a passion for, follow their style.
What are three items that every young guy should have in his wardrobe?
A T shirt, some pants and a pair of shoes. I just wear a shirt and some jeans and an OMEGA watch. There you go.
Can you share your favourite OMEGA moment with us?
I’d have to say one of my favourite OMEGA moments was when we all got to go to Hong Kong – most of us, my mom, my sister and me, but that was incredible because it was my first time visiting the city, we had so much fun.
Thank you.
This particular Patek Philippe watch that was auctioned at Christie’s Dubai last month was truly unique in several ways. One of the first perpetual chronograph watches ever made by Patek Philippe, its historic value was upped still more by the fact it was once owned by King Farouk, the penultimate monarch of Egypt and the Sudan and a man who was known for his fondness for all things luxurious – from Rolls-Royce cars to vintage timepieces.
Commissioned by the King in 1945, the 18-carat gold watch – one of only 281 ever made – is the first ‘1518’ edition of the iconic three-dial style that still in production today. Highlighting its significance, John Reardon, Christie’s International Head of Watches, said: “The same design concept still exists on new Patek Philippe watches, but it has gone through five iterations in as many decades, which is why the original 1518 is known today as the great-great-grandfather of the series.”
In what was then considered an unprecedented horological feat, the timepiece incorporated a triple-complication movement, which micro-mechanically counts seconds, minutes, hours, days, months and years. It also includes a moon-face calendar between its two chronograph registers.
It’s the caseback, though, that gives it its royal heritage. Engraved with a crowned ‘F’ on the reverse, complete with a star and a half-moon on the crown (a symbol of the then-Egyptian flag), the watch was believed to be a harbinger of good luck by King Farouk himself. That, however, was probably before he was forcibly deposed in 1952.
Almost before the annual intrigue that surrounds January’s SIHH watch convention had a chance to die down, the big beast of the horological world was upon us – Baselworld, the one time of year when every true chronogram fan knows exactly where they’ll be. From the thousands of timepieces on show, here’s our round-up of Baselworld highlights.
Given the air of competitive camaraderie that always characterises Baselworld, there is a perennial temptation to toss convention to the wind and to court controversy with something wantonly outré. Thankfully, this was not the case with Breguet’s Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique 5367 Grand Feu Enamel. Despite its grandiose nomenclature, this timepiece duly shunned inapt sensationalism in favour of pristine, minimalist lines. And did so to considerable effect.
Available as an ultra-thin 7.45mm special edition, the piece boasted a Grand Feu enamel dial furnished with blued steel hour and minute hands. Taking place of pride at the five o’clock mark was a tourbillon, complete with a small seconds indicator on its axis – the only ostentatious flourish incorporated into this remarkably understated timepiece.
Another notably minimalist model was Jacquet Droz’s Grande Seconde Moon Black Enamel. Set with an elegant rose gold bezel, its stark black Grand Feu enamel dial served to enhance – rather than detract from – the brand’s signature ‘figure eight’ double-dial layout. The jewel in this particular timepiece’s crown, however, was its shining moon phase complication, neatly adorning the larger bottom dial, which completed the model’s knowing aura of ‘less is more’.
There is no reason, however, why minimalism should be synonymous with formality, with Chopard’s reimagined L.U.C Quattro a clear case in point. While this upgrade still boasts the haute horology house’s legendary precision and attention to detail, it does so with a degree of casual aplomb. This laid-back vibe is particularly manifested in the somewhat playful Arabic numbers set at 3 and 9 o’clock, as well as its unusually jaunty blue strap.
For those more athletically-inclined, Tag Heuer’s Carrera Tête de Vipère may prove the trophy du jour. Marking 55 years since the debut of the Carrera line, this particular incarnation sports a bold midnight blue case, bezel and lugs, while clearly not lacking in the tourbillion, chronograph or chronometer departments. Available solely in a 155-piece limited edition, it’s set to become an instant collectors’ classic.
Baselworld highlights included plenty to entice discerning female watch enthusiasts. One particular example came in the form of Breitling’s Navitimer 1 Automatic 38. Neatly incorporating the brand’s calibre 17 movement, this automatic timepiece features both a bi-rotational slide rule bezel and luminescent Super-LumiNova hour and minute hands housed in a toned-down diameter of 38mm – the perfect sporty statement piece.
For a more understated look, there was Omega’s new De Ville Trésor Quartz 36mm in Sedna Gold. Every inch of this stunning timepiece was imbued with a simple sophistication – from its delightfully delicate diamond-accented Sedna rose gold case and shimmering white opaline dial to its flower design embossed-caseback.
Nestling at the contrary end of the spectrum was Rolex’s new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, a statement wrist-adornment in anybody’s book. The traditional tachymetric scale on the bezel has, in this case, been superseded by multi-hued sapphires, creating an unmissable rainbow effect, while hour markers come set with correspondingly-coloured baguette-cut sapphires. Complete with a diamond-embedded 18-carat Everose gold case, the watch remains unabashedly flirtatiously feminine,
With thousands of the world’s most innovative timepieces once again devoting at Baselworld, singling out just one or two standouts surely short-changes the incomparable showcase. With one-off wonders at every turn and resurgent classics on every stand, a snapshot of the glory that is Baselworld is all that one reviewer could hope to render. It is tribute to the comprehensive brilliance on show, however, that even a brief perusal of Baselworld highlights provides quite so much to marvel at.
Text: Tenzing Thondup
Among the hundreds of brands and thousands of treasured timepieces that debuted at Baselworld this year, one particular brand stood out: Breguet. The renowned haute horology atelier was in shining form, unveiling their latest interpretations of its beloved classics. Without further adieu, let us dive into the best of Breguet at Baselworld 2018.
Breguet Reine de Naples 8908
That intricate ladies’ watches have exploded onto the horological stage is no secret (read our article on the latest women’s watches here), but perhaps none has done it with such aplomb as Breguet in its Reine de Naples 8908. The first timepiece in the eponymous collection since 2002, it perfectly embodies flirtatious femininity with a diamond-studded rose gold case and Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial.
Design elements of its progenitor (created by A.L. Breguet for the Queen of Naples between 1810 and 1812) have been updated to give it a modern flourish. Outfitted with a self-winding mechanical movement and small seconds and moon phase complications, it is the perfect accoutrement for today’s lady collector.
Breguet Marine Chronographe 5527
The best of Breguet, that is, the traits that have made it one of the most beloved watch brands in the world (attention to detail, beautiful craftsmanship, whole-hearted devotion to all things horological…) were nowhere better demonstrated than its Marine Chronographe 5527.
Several versions of this updated class were unveiled at Baselworld, but the blue dial/white gold model, in particular, grabbed our attention. Here, the marine themes that inform this whole collection truly come into their own, from the hand-guilloche blue dial right down to the ‘wave’ button designs.
Breguet Classique Extra-Plate 5157
With the newest addition to its Classique collection, Breguet shuns the outrightly flashy in favour of clean, minimalist lines. At only 5.45mm, the extra-thin Classique Extra-Plate 5157 proves the old adage ‘less is more’. As an added touch, a secret signature (introduced by the brand’s founder when he realized people were counterfeiting his designs) has been lovingly engraved adjacent to the 12 o’clock hour mark.
And there you have it. The best of Breguet on show at Baselworld 2018. What’s more, unlike previous years where showcased pieces take a year to trickle down to its boutiques, these watches are all set to hit the market now. Visit your closest Breguet store or head to www.breguet.com for more information.
With over 150 years of experience under its belt, Swiss watchmaker Chopard continues to entice and entrance horology lovers by producing beautiful timepieces that boast intricate craftsmanship and technical expertise. Here are some highlights from the latest crop of Chopard watches.
L.U.C Collection
Several new Chopard watches have joined the ranks of its popular L.U.C collection, a line renowned for its handmade accents and mechanical complications. Targeting today’s gentleman enthusiast, there’s the playfully chic L.U.C Quattro, a limited 50-piece release outfitted with unusual Arabic numerals at 3 and 9 o’clock and eye-catching blue calfskin straps. Meanwhile, the L.U.C Grand Heritage Cru, encased in a more subdued 38.5mm white gold case, blends vintage vibes with modern flourishes.
Then there’s the L.U.C Full Strike. Replete with a mechanical minute repeater and encased in ethically certified Fairmined white gold, this timepiece is the perfect accoutrement for fashion-forward men-about-town.
Which brings us to the pièce de résistance, the L.U.C All-in-One. Available in rose gold with a nickel coloured face or platinum with a grey-blue face, these exclusive models both are bedecked with hand guilloché dials – a Chopard signature. With only ten pieces of each up for grabs, these are true collectors’ items.
Mille Miglia Racing Colours
Embodying the automotive spirit of Italy’s famed Mille Miglia race, these new Chopard watches come in a variety of car-inspired colours, ranging from ‘Speed Silver’ and ‘Rossa Corsa’ to ‘British Racing Green’. Outfitted with a mechanical chronograph movement, the limited-edition Mille Miglia Racing Colours models are available exclusively at Chopard boutiques and corners.
Happy Sport Collection
Celebrating 25 years since the launch of its iconic Happy Sport collection, Chopard has introduced several new models targeting today’s multi-talented women. First up is the Happy Sport Oval, which perfectly embodies the line’s sporty-meets-chic vibe. Blending a playfully casual shape studded with diamonds for a feminine flair, it’s the perfect all-rounder for lady watch lovers.
But that’s not all. The latest slew of Chopard watches also includes another, more rarified model of the Happy Sport collection: the Happy Palm. This outstanding limited-release timepiece, featuring ethical Fairmined 18-carat yellow gold set with diamonds, perfectly captures the tropical spirit with its golden palm motif.
