Mountain Metropolis: Set in a tranquil wonderland, the city of Chongqing rises with ceaseless energy

History, modernity, breathtaking landscapes and even water colours converge in Chongqing, one of China’s most dynamic megacities. Replete with rivers, mountains and endless charm, it is nestled along the confluence of the Yangtze and the Jialing, where the yellowy sediment-heavy water of the former and the green hues of the latter meet in a clash dubbed – in a nod to the city’s dinnertime speciality – ‘two-flavour’ hot pot.

Despite being the country’s largest municipality in terms of population – 32 million people compared to 25 million in Shanghai and Beijing’s 22 million souls – Chongqing’s urban landscape is defined by steep hills, winding roads and towering skyscrapers that rise amid lush greenery. Often referred to as China’s ‘mountain city’, this mesmerising blend of nature and modernity creates a striking contrast, making it one of the nation’s most photogenic destinations.

Holiday Highlights

There are fantastic views to snap wherever you go. Hop on the Yangtze River Cableway for stunning aerial glimpses of the city and the water as you glide from bank to bank. For panoramic city views, Eling Park in Yuzhong district and Nanshan mountain provide breathtaking vantage points to witness an endless sea of high-rises punctuated by bridges and winding roads.

The top-floor viewing platform at Hongya Cave, an 11-storey complex of retail spaces and hotels built into a cliffside in the main commercial district of Jiefangbei, is a must at night. It is then that the spectacle comes alive, as the traditional-style buildings glow with golden lights and reflect onto the river below. Chongqing’s nightscape, illuminated by dazzling neon lights and the glimmering rivers, is truly a sight to behold.

Future Vision

While Chongqing is rich in natural beauty, it is also an exciting hive of contemporary pleasures. The bustling areas of Jiefangbei and Guanyinqiao are perfect for those looking to shop, dine or experience the city’s nightlife. Raffles City Chongqing, a sleek eight-tower development designed by renowned architect Moshe Safdie, is an engineering masterpiece that showcases the city’s forward-thinking verve.

For an immersive cultural experience, Chongqing Grand Theatre hosts world-class performances, blending traditional Chinese arts with modern stage productions. At the other end of the creative spectrum, futuristic attractions such as virtual-reality gaming zones and cutting-edge entertainment hubs lure a new generation of visitors.

Rural Splendours

Beyond its urban attractions, Chongqing is surrounded by stunning natural wonders. To the east is the Unesco World Heritage Site of Wulong Karst, a dreamlike landscape of towering limestone formations, deep gorges and natural stone bridges. The area has famously featured in films like Transformers: Age of Extinction, drawing travellers eager to witness its surreal beauty.

Also in Wulong County, Fairy Mountain provides a peaceful retreat with rolling green hills and crisp mountain air, perfect for leisurely strolls or horseback riding. North of the city, Jindao Canyon offers adventure seekers the chance to hike along narrow rock pathways, cross suspension bridges, and admire cascading waterfalls.

River of Adventure

Chongqing serves as the starting point for the famed Yangtze River cruises, a journey that takes travellers east through the breathtaking Three Gorges – the Qutang, Wu and Xiling – culminating in Yichang, Hubei province. These cruises offer a glimpse into China’s stunning landscapes, ancient villages and legendary historical sites. The modern metropolis itself embraces the river culture, with picturesque waterfronts and bustling docks that highlight its vibrant energy.

Glimpses of the Past

The city has played a significant role throughout China’s history. It was the temporary capital of China during the Second Sino-Japanese War (1937-1945) and a refuge for millions fleeing the conflict. Today, remnants of this history can be found at the Chongqing Anti-Japanese War Site Museum in the scenic Nanshan neighbourhood, where the offices and residences of key figures like Chiang Kai-shek and his wife Soong Mei-ling are preserved. The former home of US General Joseph Stilwell, the Allied Chief of Staff in China during the Second World War, in Yuzhong is now the Stilwell Museum.

Meanwhile, the ancient town of Ciqikou on the west bank of the Jialing river offers insights into Chongqing’s Ming and Qing Dynasty past, where traditional wooden houses, tea shops and narrow alleyways transport visitors to another era.

Spice of Life

You cannot visit Chongqing without indulging in its world-famous cuisine, particularly the fiery hot pot that embodies its bold, energetic spirit. Locals gather around bubbling cauldrons of spicy broth, joyfully dipping in thinly sliced meat, vegetables and tofu to consume when piping hot. Typically packed with mouth-numbing Sichuan peppercorns, Chongqing hot pot is beloved by foodies for its extreme spice levels.

Beyond hot pot, there’s a plethora of street food delights to savour. Xiaomian, a humble bowl of noodles with plenty of chilli oil to blast the taste buds, is a local staple and has gained national fame for its simple yet addictive flavours. Spicy skewers, grilled fish and kou shui ji – mouth-watering chicken – are among other must-try dishes that showcase the city’s culinary prowess.

Feeling China’s Pulse

Chongqing is a place where every corner offers something unique, whether it’s a bustling hot-pot restaurant, a tranquil riverside park, or a historic alleyway teeming with local stories. It’s a city where tradition meets modernity, where natural landscapes blend seamlessly with skyscrapers, and where visitors can truly feel the pulse of China’s rapid evolution.

From the rich flavours of its cuisine to the stunning riverside scenery, Chongqing is a destination that leaves a lasting impression. Whether you’re an adventurer, a food lover, a history enthusiast, or simply a curious traveller, this mountain metropolis promises an unforgettable journey – one that is as exhilarating as it is culturally profound.

Roman Inroads: Crisscross the Eternal City for a legion of ancient wonders and glorious spots to wine and dine

Alone man sits before the Trevi Fountain with his newspaper, an empty espresso cup on the cool stone by his side, the rush of water almost a roar in the early quiet of the morning. The sky is already turning an almost impossible shade of blue and sunlight slants across Rome’s crowded roofs, sliding noiselessly along the narrow cobbled streets. Hordes of tourists throng the square day and night, throwing coins into the water in the hopes of returning to the Eternal City. But now, at dawn, the scene is peaceful and timeless; the ideal place from which to start your Roman holiday.

Rome was certainly not built in a day, and strolling through the city is a journey back in time. It was one of the few major European cities to escape the Second World War relatively unscathed, and although thoroughly modern and cosmopolitan, central Rome remains essentially Renaissance and Baroque in character with a good dose of antiquity thrown in. The sheer quantity of ornate buildings, impressive statues and prancing horses that decorate the fountains are a constant reminder of the thousands of years of history crystallised in the city.

The historic centre, or Centro Storico, is small enough to explore on foot and is listed by Unesco as a World Heritage Site. It contains more than 900 churches, countless palazzi, or palaces, some beautiful green spaces, the Italian Parliament, and many of Rome’s most famous monuments including the Trevi Fountain, the Colosseum and the Pantheon.

But the Centro Storico is not just an historic theme park. Aside from its architectural highlights, the area is also the living, pulsing heart of the city. It boasts thousands of workshops, trendy bars and fabulous restaurants and is home to a multitude of animated Romans who laugh with, and sometimes at, the tourists. After an early start at the Trevi Fountain, a stop for breakfast at a people-watching café should be next on your agenda.

Grand Piazzas

No matter how Rome’s streets twist and turn they always finally open onto a piazza grand or quaint. Usually located near an important building or three, these are inevitably gathering places, with outdoor cafés and restaurants ready to meet your needs, whether for a quick pick-me-up, or a lingering meal for two. Italians typically start their day with a sweet cornetto (pastry) and an espresso that is strong enough to blast your eyes wide open.

An amble westward from the Trevi Fountain will take you down the Via delle Muratte, and this enchanting lane is lined with traditional trattorias that are jam-packed in the evening with red-and-white checkered tables and an amiable crowd. It’s quiet in the morning but at night it bustles with stalls. At the Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina, take a break and order a caffè corto robusto, a strong single espresso, at the charming Ciampini Roma.

Just around the corner you’ll find the Piazza della Rotonda with its graceful central fountain and the chatter of cafés. Here, standing beneath the massive dome of the Pantheon with sunlight spilling through the hole in the top, you cannot help but marvel at the skill which created something so awe-inspiring that has withstood centuries of change without losing any of its brilliance.

Afternoon in the Forum

The Colosseum, to the southeast through the spectacular Michelangelo-designed Piazza del Campidoglio and the remains of the ancient Roman Forum, is equally breathtaking, although its ruined state brings home its great age with even more impact. As you wander round the Colosseum’s walls, you can almost hear the cheering of bloodthirsty crowds, the roars of enraged beasts, and the harsh cries of fighting gladiators echoing within. Yet a passeggiata, or evening stroll, through the subtly lit Forum reveals a more romantic view of the great structure, glowing from within.

Sightseeing is thirsty work and by midday you’ll deserve a drink and a fine meal before spending an afternoon at the magnificent Castel Sant’Angelo, or the glorious St Peter’s Square, or perhaps the Catacombs of Priscilla, or even practising the ancient Roman art of pampering at Aquamadre, a traditional Hellenic-Roman hammam. Whatever your afternoon plans you are going to need lunch so find yourself an enoteca, or wine bar, such as Cul de Sac on Piazza di Pasquino and sample some of Italy’s finest wines with a selection of antipasti. Or perhaps a carb-loading session of delectable handmade pasta is more in order if you are considering the Vatican’s inevitable queues.

Foodie Forays

For chic nighttime dining with the city’s più elegante, head for the Piazza del Popolo and one of Rome’s most famous eateries, Dal Bolognese. Alternatively, the streets around the Pantheon and the ineffably grand Piazza Navona in the centre of old Rome are crammed with fantastic bars and enoteche. Get away from the tourist hotspots and you can find some genuine dining gems. Between Piazza Navona and the Tiber river you’ll find narrow alleyways overhung with blooming window boxes, scooters parked nose-to-nose with Fiats, and the restaurants of your dreams. The ivy-clad romancer Il Bacaro should be close to the top of your dinner ‘to do’ list.

You will not want to miss the pickings at Campo de’ Fiori either. This is Rome’s colourful daily food market, open 7am to 2pm, and over the river is the bohemian neighbourhood of Trastevere, which is possibly the most laidback area for evening dining in Rome. Even the ubiquitous graffiti somehow adds to the area’s charm and arty vibe, and the chances are you will end up party to a wedding at the Basilica of Santa Maria, one of the oldest churches in Rome.

Roofs with a View

Watching the sun set over the city is also a pleasure not to be missed, and the view from the top of the Spanish Steps in Rome’s glitzy shopping district will take your breath away. Bar hop from there to Sky Blu rooftop at the Aleph hotel, to Seen by Olivier at the Anantara Palazzo Naiadi hotel, and to Roof Garden at the Bio Hotel Raphaël, and the view will leave you completely breathless. Or take a pine-scented stroll from Trastevere up to the Piazzale Giuseppe Garibaldi to enjoy 360-degree views of the city bathed in the glow of day’s last light and build up a good appetite before heading to a rooftop showstopper restaurant such as Gigi Rigolatto Roma at the Orient Express La Minerva hotel.

Rome’s nightlife is still as Bacchanalian as any in Ancient Rome with venues like Jackie O’ and Hulala serving as a home from home till the early hours. But you’ll probably want to end the night tucked up in your hotel room, especially if you are staying in one of Rome’s finest boutique properties like the Dante-esque Aleph, or for sheer exclusivity and consummate style, you can’t beat a suite at the Ferragamo family-owned Portrait Roma.

Wherever you are staying, so much of a holiday in Rome is about absorbing its atmosphere, interacting with its people and savouring its cuisine. While certain sights can’t be missed, enjoy a Roman afternoon just contemplating life over a bowl of icy gelato in some quiet corner, or shopping for a pair of leather gloves with Italy’s fashionable finest.

More than a short stay is required to truly appreciate this city, for Rome is vibrant and real. As the Italians say, “Roma – non basta una vita!” A lifetime is not certainly enough to experience this city’s glories.

Peak Viewing: Famed for its stirring scenery, this district in the heart of England offers much besides moor…

The Peak District is a precious and protected place of moors and peaks, lush-green dales, clear, fast-flowing rivers, sheer cliff faces and idyllic, quintessentially English towns and villages. The first and probably the most popular national park in England, it is anchored by the East Midlands city of Derby and extends north towards Manchester and Sheffield. A wild haven for hikers, it is also dotted with graceful stately homes, and the summer months bring fine cultural events and fun country fairs.

More than 13 million visitors a year sample the charms of this awe-inspiring region in the heart of England. Designated as the Peak District National Park in 1951, it has two distinct geographical attractions. To the north, west and east lie the windswept hills of the Dark Peak, known for its peat bogs and gritstone cliffs. It was here, in 1932, that the nation’s avid walkers staged a mass trespass on Kinder Scout, crossing fences erected by wealthy landowners and forging a path towards public access to a wondrous natural treasure. This mist-shrouded, heather-clad, inhospitable moorland remains a firm favourite for ramblers.

The topography of the White Peak to the south is far gentler, with deep forested dales, rolling hills formed from limestone, and stone villages linked by walking trails offering beautiful views of the countryside – a picture-postcard paradise for hikers.

Well wishing

Summer sees a slew of well-dressing ceremonies in scores of towns and villages, an ancient ritual conceived to give thanks for this supply fresh water. Bakewell, a genteel town renowned for its namesake pastry desserts, puts on a decorative display. It is also home to the Bakewell Country Festival, held this year on 13 July, which presents a plethora of displays and activities dedicated to English country life. In late summer, attention switches to the Chatsworth Country Fair nearby. Attractions at the grand Chatsworth estate on 29-31 August 2025 include hot-air balloons, a vintage fun fair, children’s entertainment, and a shopping village selling local produce and artisanal crafts.

Stately splendour

Chatsworth House, a stately home of the grandest scale, draws hundreds of thousands of visitors from around the world annually. Handed down by the Dukes of Devonshire through 16 generations, this Baroque palace comes with splendid gardens designed by Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown, who included a magnificent maze to get lost in and a sensational tumbling cascade. The property bestows such elegance and opulence that it has featured in numerous film adaptations, including Pride and Prejudice. Jane Austen lodged at The Rutland Arms Hotel in Bakewell in 1811, where she is thought to have revised pages of her best-known novel.

Rival manors in the region include Kedleston Hall just north of Derby, designed by Georgian architect Robert Adam in the 1760s, and Hardwick Hall, near Chesterfield, a beautiful Elizabethan-era country pile built in the 1590s. Both properties are under the auspices of the National Trust, a charitable body set up to preserve and protect the UK’s historic houses.

Spring town

Northwest of Bakewell and just outside the boundary of the Peak District, Buxton is an impressive regional base for tourists. Developed as a fashionable spa town by the fifth Duke of Devonshire during the late 1700s, it is blessed with some marvellous architectural features and neo-classical buildings. Lined with handsome stone houses, the historic centre is now benefitting from a major revamp, including the Georgian Crescent, built from 1780 to 1790 as part of a plan to compete with Bath in southwest England and its famous Royal Crescent.

Indeed, Buxton’s spa history stems from the Romans, who stumbled upon the pure, healing waters of its warm spring, and built baths and a temple to honour the goddess Arnemetia. Today, a fountain opposite the Crescent at St Ann’s Well spouts out free Buxton Water, so have your bottles ready!

Cultural cup overfloweth

Other notable architectural splendours include the Pavilion Gardens, a string of Victorian buildings noted for their 19th-century wrought-iron work and an impressive glassy dome. Nearby stands the beautifully refurbished Buxton Opera House, an imposing twin-domed Edwardian construction dating from 1903, and the venue for some magnificent musical performances.

The Buxton International Festival, which takes place from 10-27 July this year, boasts world-class classical music, opera, guest speakers and literary readings. Running concurrently is the Buxton Festival Fringe, which covers music, theatre and film and has a more contemporary vibe. Expect to hear snippets of Shakespeare being performed on the streets, or even at Poole’s Cavern, a vast network of caves dripping with stalactites and stalagmites, where opera and theatre have been performed underground. The eerie darkness of this shadowy cavern complex makes for an unforgettable backdrop to an Elizabethan tragedy.

Room at the inn

Another delightful town just outside the southern periphery of the Peak District is Ashbourne. Some 20 miles south of Buxton, it features a charming cobbled marketplace surrounded by gorgeous Georgian redbrick buildings. The Green Man & Black’s Head Royal Hotel has become a focal point for the town’s economy since reopening in 2018. Its inn sign dating from 1825, which stretches overhead to the other side of the street, has earned a Guinness World Records mention as the longest in the world. Ashbourne is also famous for hosting the annual Royal Shrovetide Football – a raucous, rumbustious ball game with medieval roots.

Trail park

Ashbourne is the starting point of the Tissington Trail and the gateway to the southern fringes of the White Peak, most notably nearby Dovedale, one of the prettiest of the Peak District river valleys. This stunning stretch of the River Dove, a majestic river which winds its way across much of the national park, comprises a two-mile gorge complete with stepping stones, thickly wooded slopes and weather-beaten rocks. A leisurely hike along its banks is a must. The Dove was famously fished by English writer Izaak Walton (1593-1683), who captured the experience in his iconic tome, The Compleat Angler.

The 13-mile route along the Tissington Trail to Parsley Hay, where it intersects the High Peak Trail, is another fantastic hike. A shorter alternative takes a circular route starting from the Old Station in Tissington itself, running along a dismantled railway line and following an 18th-century dry-stone wall. Breathtaking vistas await of open farmland dotted with small stands of trees, and limestone cuttings brimming with wild flowers, lizards and butterflies.

Other famous hikes in the Peak District include the high plateau above Edale, which denotes the start of the 268-mile Pennine Way footpath, snaking north all the way to Kirk Yetholm on the Scottish border. Above Hathersage, there are spectacular views over the moors, an area thought to have inspired scenes in Charlotte Bronte’s Jane Eyre.

Village appetite

Among the region’s historic landmarks is Eyam, where villagers heroically self-imposed a quarantine to combat the plague of 1665-6. Cromford Mills is the location of the first-ever water-powered cotton-spinning mill, and the Crich Tramway Village is a reimagined Victorian street replete with trams from all over the world. The road trip from the market town of Matlock through the Derwent Valley gorge to the spa town of Matlock Bath is an unforgettable experience. Once there, head up to the Heights of Abraham by cable car.

The sweet of tooth will relish the Peak District’s unique culinary delights. Bakewell cooks fold almond paste and strawberry jam into a pudding (with puff pastry) or a dense tart (shortcrust pastry topped by white fondant icing). Other teatime specials include Derbyshire parkin, made of oatmeal, treacle, almonds and ground ginger; crumbly Buxton pudding, best served with stewed or tinned fruit, jam or sweet sauce; and malt loaf, delicious when sliced and buttered.

Another local favourite is the soft, creamy Dovedale Blue cheese. A savoury treat with a memorable name, Derbyshire fidgety pie traps chopped bacon, apple and onions inside shortcrust pastry.

Kenya Best: From cultural melting pot to wild-animal magic, Nairobi is a welcoming city of cool contrasts

An African jewel, Nairobi acts as a magnet for those wishing to find first-class cosmopolitan creature comforts as well as wild beasts in all their marvellous nobility in the city’s national park. Indeed, the Kenyan capital’s attractions have mushroomed over the years to include great restaurants and nightlife, world-class museums and historic buildings, and a fantastic range of things to see and do.

Serving as an important economic, financial and transportation hub, the fast-growing city is the most populous is East Africa and its 5.5 million souls bring a vibrancy to the local cultural scene. Named by the Maasai as a place of cool waters, its diversity and myriad pleasures leave visitors yearning to return and sample them once more. Weather-wise, it is a congenial destination, with June through to September among the driest months and when Nairobi National Park is at its best.

Trees and Towers

Welcoming settlers from all over Africa, Asia, Europe and North America, Nairobi is a melting pot as befits a major commercial centre. In the central district, a towering skyline rises above a soothing backdrop of trees, beautiful gardens and shaded avenues. Many of trees are not native to Kenya and were planted by city administrators keen to nurture an urban oasis from dusty, humble origins. However, indigenous forest preserved within City Park, just north of downtown, adds to the green splendour. Saved from the bulldozer by Kenyan Nobel Peace Prize winner Wangari Maathai, Uhuru Park is a vast recreational area and popular place to relax from the hustle and bustle of central Nairobi.

Just next to City Square with its imposing statue of the founding father of modern Kenya, Jomo Kenyatta, is the Kenyatta International Convention Centre (KICC), perhaps the best-known landmark in the city. A fusion of modern and local styles, KICC’s interior has been distinctly ‘Africanised’ and contains an amphitheatre designed in the shape of a traditional hut. A speedy lift takes eager visitors to the top floor of this 32-storey, saucer-topped tower – formerly the city’s tallest building – for magnificent views of Nairobi’s chaotic glory and the hinterland beyond. On clear days it is possible to spy the rugged summit of Mount Kenya, the second-highest peak in Africa.

The city’s Parliament Buildings are another notable monument, where entry into the National Assembly can be obtained to see African democracy in action, or a tour arranged with the sergeant-at-arms.

National Treasures

History buffs will want to explore the Nairobi National Museum, which reflects the story of Kenya. Established in 1910 and set within lush, leafy grounds just outside the city centre, this imposing edifice is one of the oldest museums in East Africa. It is full of amazing artefacts such as ceremonial Siwa horns dating back to 1688, ethnographic paintings of Kenya’s tribes inked by naturalist Joy Adamson of Born Free fame, and a Kalenjin cloak made from the skins of Sykes’ monkeys. Of special note is the life-size replica of the massive elephant known as Ahmed, who was considered to be largest tusker at the time of the country’s independence from Britain in 1963, and was accorded special status by President Jomo Kenyatta.

An extensive array of stuffed species spans an aardvark, a giant forest hog and an okapi (zebra giraffe). The Hominid Skull Room contains an extraordinary range of early human fossils in perhaps one of the best collections in the world. Another room is dedicated to the history of Kenya in the context of East Africa.

Out of Africa

The nearby Snake Park is a great place to see animals alive and unfettered. It boasts an impressive range of serpents, most notably the puff adder, black mamba, Egyptian cobra, African rock python and the Gaboon viper, whose four-centimetre-long fangs offer a slightly menacing presence. Other draws here are exotic fish, lizards, turtles and crocodiles.

Situated some 10 kilometres outside central Nairobi, the Karen Blixen Museum is a must-visit for those who loved the film Out of Africa. The Danish author resided here on a coffee plantation between 1914 and 1931, and the colonial elegance of the property set in charming gardens has been preserved. The building contains memorabilia from Blixen’s time in Africa and the shooting of the film. Guided tours are available that detail her tumultuous life and times.

To absorb some of Africa’s rich indigenous culture, head to Bomas of Kenya, a tourist village also located to the southwest of the city. It consists of clusters of homesteads (bomas) representing various Kenyan tribal groups. Among a repertoire of some 50 traditional dances and songs performed by different ethnic communities expect Embu drumming, an enactment of a Kikuyu circumcision ceremony, spectacular Kalenjin warrior dances and Arabic-influenced Swahili music.

For a more static taste of local tradition, the African Heritage House overlooking Nairobi National Park showcases African architecture in a range of styles. An overnight stay here is recommended.

Game Show

The National Park, established in 1946, is by far the most popular tourist destination in the city. Offering an unforgettable chance to view rhinos and lions within sight of Nairobi’s modern skyscrapers, this amazing tract of grassland and acacia savannah is fenced on the city side to protect its domestic population. Nothing like it exists elsewhere in Africa – world-class game viewing in a park straddling the southern outskirts of a national capital.

Open plains slope gently from west to east while rocky ridges are covered in rich vegetation. Streams run southeast into the Mbagathi river, and even during the dry season the park has a permanent source of water, which enables it to attract big game. Four of the Big Five – buffalo, leopard, lion and rhino – reside in the park, with only elephants absent as the reserve is too small to support them. Rangers keep visitors regularly updated on the movements of lions and hyenas, as well as the resident cheetahs and leopards, which can require more patience to spot. The world’s densest population of black rhinos is found here too. Other animals often spotted in the park are gazelles, warthogs, zebras, giraffes, ostriches and buffaloes.

Nairobi Safari Walk run by the Kenya Wildlife Service, whose headquarters is located near one of the entrances, offers tourists the chance to see some of the Nairobi’s wilder residents from the safety of a raised boardwalk. Nestled inside the park is the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust nursery, where handlers bottle-feed groups of baby elephants. Not far off, in the suburb of Lang’ata, the Giraffe Centre also allows visitors to witness conservation efforts, particularly with regard to the endangered Rothschild’s giraffe.

Feeding Time

Such are its depth of offerings and breadth of flavours that Nairobi is considered one of the culinary capitals of Africa. There is a plethora of great restaurants and cafes to try, and some have gorgeous garden settings, making eating out even more enjoyable. The Westlands and Karen neighbourhoods are blessed with an array of upmarket dining options. Lord Delamere Terrace is a sophisticated eatery which allows visitors to taste old-style Africa; it also features one of the continent’s classic bars. The Karen Blixen Coffee Garden has a wonderful English country-garden vibe, with dishes ranging from gourmet burgers to Swahili curries. Its Sunday lunch buffet is popular.

For a uniquely ‘Out of Africa’ culinary experience, seek out Carnivore, one of the most famous restaurants in the city. Billed as a Beast of a Feast since 1980, its speciality is nyama choma (barbecued meat). Near the entrance is a huge barbecue pit crammed full of Maasai swords laden with beef, pork, lamb, chicken and farmed game meat such as crocodile and ostrich. The all-you-can-eat meat comes with salad, vegetable sides and sauces, plus a soup of the day. Once satiated, diners are encouraged to cease the feeding frenzy and move onto dessert and coffee by lowering a white paper flag.

Heaven & High Water: Blessed with gorgeous lagoons and resplendent reefs, Fiji is a paradise for marine adventurers

Fiji is a breathtakingly beautiful collection of 333 islands in the South Pacific exuding such warmth and charm that even a fleeting visit will be a memorable experience. For the outdoors enthusiast, it is paradise on land and sea, from superb hiking to mid-ocean surfing. Some isles offer sumptuous high-end tourism as fabulous resorts spill out into tranquil and dazzling sapphire-blue waters. Here, scuba diving and snorkelling promise the possibility of encounters with sharks, manta rays, colourful fish and diving through magical cave complexes. On the main island of Viti Levu, the capital Suva is a thriving cosmopolitan melting pot of great restaurants, nightlife and cultural attractions.

About two-thirds of Fiji’s islands are uninhabited, and a population of just over 900,000 primarily comprises indigenous people of Melanesian and Polynesian extraction, Indo-Fijians of Indian origin, Chinese, and those of mixed Fijian-European ancestry. A vast proportion of land remains tribally owned, and there are many communal villages where locals have a subsistence lifestyle. English is an official language and spoken by most Fijians alongside their mother tongue.

The best time to visit Fiji is undoubtedly during the dry season between May and October, when temperatures hover around 25°C by day and southerly trade winds tame the heat of the months at the turn of the year.

Island resorts

Fiji is one of the best places in the world to indulge in a pampered getaway. There are a slew of magnificent private islands where it is possible to remove yourself from social contact to the utmost extent and elegant resorts that transport you to a haven of unending luxury concealed behind a veil of natural wonder. These retreats are ideal for honeymooners looking for a romantic escape and couples requiring quality time together, or those simply seeking glorious solitude.

Guests arriving at upscale property may be welcomed by a group of locals performing a meke – a traditional dance that folds in storytelling through song to make a spectacular show.

The Mamanuca Islands located off the west coast of Viti Levu boast some of the country’s best hotels and resorts, sublime beaches and tiny coral cays – a plethora of gorgeous gold and green strips of land dabbed onto radiant blue waters by the painter’s brush. Spectacular and vibrant corals glisten in the depths below and brightly coloured fish gleam under an azure sky.

Conviviality is guaranteed on Malolo and Mana, the two busiest and most popular islands here. To get away from the crowds and enjoy quiet time with your partner, head to Tadrai Island Resort, an adults-only, all-inclusive retreat on the secluded eastern coast of Mana.

Malolo is the biggest island in the Mamanucas and offers a wide variety of accommodation and levels of luxury. Malolo Island Resort invites with a string of exciting experiences such as snorkelling, diving and line fishing, as well as dolphin-watching safaris, hiking trips to the island’s hilltop and Fijian cooking lessons, followed by the chance to relax at the fabulous terrace restaurant with a cool cocktail. Other premium resorts promising supreme exclusivity are Likuliku Lagoon, an enclave of overwater villas in an isolated bay, and the private island Wadigi Lodge, set on a tiny outcrop.

Shore leave

Year-round calm oceans make the Mamanucas the perfect spot for yacht chartering and cruising. An abundance of operators provide a wide array of outings, ranging from sunset dinner cruises with Champagne and lobster to overnight jaunts on a schooner. Fishing tours offer the chance to catch and cook the big ones that didn’t get away – think trevally and tuna found in deep water beyond the reefs.
World-class surfing beckons in the far south of these islands. At Cloudbreak, the most iconic site not far from Tavarua, dramatic waves are created by water being pushed up along steep and lengthy shallow reefs. Boat trips offer non-surfers the exhilarating experience of admiring these amazing mid-sea break points from a position of safety.

Excursions to private islands offer unparalleled opportunities to snorkel in freshwater lagoons, and perhaps sip kava, the national drink for special occasions, during a traditional ceremony. For a different taste of the wild, Cloud 9 is a two-level pontoon on a turquoise lagoon where a thrilling party atmosphere is succoured by Italian wood-fired pizzeria and a well-stocked bar.

The placid currents and amazing visibility of the waters around the Mamanucas are ideal for water sports. Notable dive sites ideal for beginners include Bird Rock, a resplendent reef dropping down 40 metres featuring caves and spectacular swim-throughs; Fish Market where schools of vibrant marine life circle around coral reefs; Gotham City with its peculiar-looking batfish, and the wreck of the Salamanda, which forms an artificial reef replete with pufferfish.

Some scuba aficionados hail Beqa Lagoon, located about 12 kilometres south of the Viti Levu town of Pacific Harbour, as the best site on earth for open-water shark diving. This protected area teems with up to eight species of sharks including the reef, silvertip, tawny nurse and sicklefin lemon, and the occasional fearsome bull shark. The gorgeous soft corals of Rainbow Reef off the south coast of Fiji’s other large island, Vanua Levu, set the underwater scene for superb drift diving.

For visitors with an unbridled sense of adventure, there are also opportunities to paddle around the Fijian islands on sea-kayaking expeditions and stay overnight at remote fishing villages. Away from the coast, explore the mystical Namosi Highlands on Viti Levu and go whitewater river rafting.

Walks on the wild side

Fiji is blessed with a host of eco-resorts where the joys of nature can be enjoyed at a more leisurely pace. At Como Laucala Island, for instance, a luxurious retreat occupying a private island surrounded by luscious blue Melanesian waters, guided hikes through dense ancient tropical forest can be taken to spy rare exotic birds. Other exclusive treats include horse riding; spending a night in seclusion on an uninhabited island; participating in a water purification ceremony at a sacred temple; and night snorkelling among corals with UV torches to create a stunning light show.

You don’t have to stay on an elite private island to experience excellent hiking. Some of the best walks can be found on Taveuni, where a national park offers fantastic forest trails. A hike on Ovalau can take the intrepid explorer into the crater of an extinct volcano. Willing walkers can also wend their way through quaint villages in the interior highlands of Viti Levu.

Savouring Suva

The country’s present-day capital offers a slice of tropical town life in the South Pacific and the chance to view relics of its colonial history. A visit to the Fiji Museum is a must, where the eclectic range of exhibits includes killing stones, cannibal forks and the soles of the shoes of the Reverend Thomas Baker, an English missionary who was devoured by cannibals in 1867. Indeed, Fiji’s cannibal past is a source of deep fascination for many visitors.

Compared with the old capital, Levuka, which has a much sleepier vibe, Suva not only has the best shopping, it also puts on the best entertainment. The most hyped bars and clubs can be found around MacArthur Street and Victoria Parade, where the sister establishments of Shenanigans Nightclub and O’Reilly’s Bar are popular draws for party animals on the prowl for cool dance beats; they are hotspots for pours of the local brews, particularly Fiji Bitter and Fiji Gold.

The food found in Fiji is enriched by a preponderance of cultures and influences, resulting in enticing spreads of iTaukei (traditional local fare), Chinese, Indian, Polynesian and European dishes, plus fusions of all these flavours. Fruit and vegetables feature strongly in modern Fijian cuisine, with home-grown papayas, mangoes and avocados particularly popular.

Kanu, a gastropub helmed by Australian chef Lance Seeto, offers great seafood and meat in Fijian and international preparations enhanced by the inviting ambience of its bungalow setting. Local favourite Eden is a multi-cuisine restaurant serving premium meat, seafood and vegetarian dishes. Delicious Indian vegetarian and non-vegetarian staples entice at Maya Dhaba, another much-loved Suva dining institution.

Rio Revels: Brazil’s year-round beach-bound playground city amps up to the max at Carnival time

Rio de Janeiro instantly conjures up mental imagery of its spectacular setting, framed by a massive mountain-top statue of Christ and an incredible number of beaches that form a majestic sandy ribbon along the southeast coastline of Brazil. The world-famous Carnival and intoxicating samba beat will also immediately spring to mind in this cultural melting pot blessed with stately architecture and culinary delights.

Such is the assault on the senses that a trip to the Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvellous City) leaves a deep visual impression. A panoply of vibrant hues, shifting shadows and plays on light brings unique sensory experiences every day. Many visitors enjoy themselves the most when they let their inhibitions run wild and go with the joyous flow. The local residents (cariocas) live life to the full, and tourists often become so bewitched by the relaxed, carefree spirit that they are loath to leave.

Carnival capers

The agreeable climate makes Brazil’s second most populous city a fantastic year-round destination, though December often sees heavy rainfall. Undoubtedly the best time to visit, however, is during the Carnival, which falls this year from February 28 to 8 March, a week when Rio rocks with street parties and non-stop private events.

Steeped in pagan tradition, Brazil hosts many carnivals leading up to Ash Wednesday (5 March 2025) and the start of Lent, but the celebration in Rio is by far the best known and most lavish. The city teems with visitors from around the globe keen to plunge headlong into the mayhem. Streets are jammed with revellers, fuelled by Brazilian beer and caipirinhas, and dancing and swaying to samba songs from morning to night. Many will be dressed as clowns and television personalities, or barely dressed in skimpy bikinis and feathers; cross-dressing is also common.

The ball at the Copacabana Palace hotel held on Carnival Saturday (1 March) is the hottest ticket in town. Fierce competition for best costume unleashes outrageous outfits from medieval troubadours to Roman Catholic archbishops.

Samba feats

The chance to win prizes also drives participants at the main samba school parades held on the Sunday and Monday nights. Giant mechanised carnival floats illustrating the motifs of the school, sequinned-and-spangled dancers and huge percussion sections sashay around the Sambodrome arena to be judged by an officially appointed jury.

Each parade is a visual extravaganza based around a distinctive central theme that will determine its imagery, costumes and choice of music. An Amazonian theme, for instance, may have elaborately costumed parade members appearing as rain-forest animals. The troupe is generally led by a porta bandeira, a female dancer who holds the school flag, and the mestre sala (dance master), with the bateria (drummers) charged with keeping a constant samba rhythm. Parades also feature agile lead dancers known as passistas who perform dazzling routines.

Beach life

Rio’s mile-upon-mile of gorgeous beaches is another top draw, with the most famous being the iconic crescent-shaped Copacabana. For many cariocas, the beach has become a way of life, and over the years a whole string of sunbathing sanctuaries along the shores has been developed. Aside from Copacabana, upscale sun- and water-worshippers will flock to Ipanema and Leblon. Offering far more seclusion to the southwest of the city are the white sands of Prainha Beach and Barra da Tijuca, a long, vibrant seaside playground.

Each of Rio’s beaches has its own style – there are sandy getaways for singles, families and sporty types, as well as those simply seeking a quiet spot in the sun. But it is Copacabana, where the beach culture began, which remains the centre of attraction. Once a quiet fishing village, the tourist district is now home to more than 350,000 people packed into 109 streets with a large concentration of hotels, restaurants and promenade cafés. The Rolling Stones famously gave a free concert on the beach here in 2006 to an audience of devoted fans estimated to number as many as two million.

Seaside stars

A great place to have a cocktail by the pool and an Italian meal with a Brazilian vibe is Cipriani Restaurant in the Copacabana Palace. The legendary hotel was established in the 1920s and refurbished much more recently in a bid to return the establishment to its glory days. Many international celebrities have enjoyed black-tie evenings at this famous watering hole.

Framed by the towering Dois Irmãos (Two Brothers) Mountains, Ipanema is an affluent neighbourhood with a stunning beach, fabulous restaurants and trendy boutiques. With a fringe of palm trees adding intimacy, the black-and-white mosaic promenade is the place for the young and beautiful to strut their stuff. Here, and in adjoining Leblon, you will find outstanding shops selling high-end luxury goods, including leather bags, shoes, clothing and gifts.

Sugar and spice

Situated on a peninsula jutting into Guanabara Bay is Sugarloaf Mountain, which offers amazing views of Copacabana and much of Rio. A magnificent ride up to the towering summit in bubble-shaped cable cars offering 360-degree views completes the trip – an exhilarating experience captured in thrilling spy-drama style by the 1979 James Bond film Moonraker.

Another must-visit spectacle on high is the statue of Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) atop the hulking Corcovado mountain. This 98-foot-high Art Deco statue was sculpted in 1931 by French-Polish artist Paul Landowski and his team; it is visible for miles and watches over the whole city. An incredibly scenic route to Christ’s feet cuts through tropical foliage and affords mesmerising views across Rio and its glorious beaches.

Historic heart

The historic heart of Rio is located around Praça XV de Novembro, a bustling square surrounded by historic buildings and streets. The Paço Imperial, dating from 1743 and once the palatial home of Brazil’s governors, has been transformed into a cultural centre boasting a theatre, cinema, exhibition spaces and galleries, a library and restaurants. The neighbouring Tiradentes Palace, seat of the Rio de Janeiro state parliament, showcases impressive Belle Epoque-style architecture. The 10-minute stroll from Praça XV up to the Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Candelária, an impressive church originating from 1775 with ornate Italian marble interiors, passes along what is considered the cultural corridor of Rio.

Just off the square through the Arco do Teles, a heritage-listed colonial arch, is a maze of narrow pedestrianised streets flanked by mid-18th-century buildings and shops with high ceilings. Travessa do Comercio is lined with bars and restaurants, while the adjacent Rua do Ouvidor also hosts fine eateries, including Al Khayam, a Middle Eastern restaurant in a historic townhouse with a wide menu – kousa mahshi (zucchini stuffed with rice and meat) is a highlight. The enjoyment of the occasion is sometimes enhanced with a belly-dancing show.

Nightly feasts

The broad choice of restaurants in Rio reflects the city’s multicultural charms. Many hotel restaurants serve the Brazilian national dish of feijoada, a stew of black beans and pork. Churrascarias, which specialise in steak and other grilled meats, are popular, especially those where servers bring a seemingly never-ending supply of juicy rodizio-style skewered meat to the table, ready to slice on demand.

Rio is also dotted with small neighbourhood bars-cum-eateries called botecos – Garota de Ipanema (named after the famous song) is one to savour. Chopp, a fresh and frosty Brazilian draught beer, and caipirinha cocktails of cachaça (spirit distilled from sugarcane), lime and sugar, are popular pours. A walking tour of the densely populated favelas (shantytowns) is bound to be an eye-opener, especially after a late night in a boteco or partying all night with the Carnival crowds.

Catalan Cool: A centre of culture and culinary creativity, Barcelona beckons with the old, the new and the simply breathtaking

Barcelona is one of the world’s most awe-inspiring cities. This great cauldron of Catalan culture offers something for everyone, from breathtaking monuments to world-class museums, and from Roman ruins and charming Gothic quarters to beautiful beaches. Foodies will delight in the city’s celebrated culinary offerings, and many visitors leave this wonderful enclave on the shores of the Mediterranean craving for more.

High churches

The architecture of the Catalan capital and Spain’s second largest city is one of its many draws. Among a slew of masterpieces of the physical form, Sagrada Familia is considered a defining symbol. A tour de force of the imagination, this fascinating, unfinished basilica is not without its controversy, but it never fails to impress, leaving an indelible mark on all those lucky enough to experience its glorious aspect in person.

Designed in a unique neo-Gothic, Art Nouveau and Catalan Modernist style by the brilliant architect Antoni Gaudi, the building is blessed with intricate details and organic shapes. Following his death in a car crash in 1926, other architects with other influences took on the mantle, and completion by the 100th anniversary of his passing was anticipated. But challenges over the years – most recently the pandemic – mean this aspiration is unobtainable.

Amazing features include spiral staircases that wind up bell towers like snail shells, a magnificent façade in which up to 100 species of plants and animals are sculpted in stone, and an apse adorned with serpents. Watch a wonder of the world in the making, as a planned 18 spires will one day jut into the sky, up from the present 13.

Another magnificent image to behold is Barcelona Cathedral, the city’s central place of worship. Erected on the foundations of a Roman temple in the heart of the Old Town, its gorgeous Gothic façade, laced with gargoyles, was added in the 19th century and restored in 2011. The rest of the building was constructed between 1298 and 1460. Marvel at the immense nave with its raised high altar and cloister graced with a fountain, palm trees and roaming geese. Take a lift to the cathedral roof to catch an amazing bird’s-eye view of medieval Barcelona.

Also within the Old Town, Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar boasts a fabulous Catalan-style Gothic interior. Stained glass windows dating back to the 15th-18th centuries allow light to enter the high aisles and wide nave of the ornate church.

Uplifting art

The nearby Palau de la Música Catalana is a fine Modernista building from 1908 adorned with an equally impressive stained-glass inverted dome ceiling. Busts of Beethoven and renowned Catalan composer Josep Anselm Clavé face off across the stage of this lavish concert hall. Of more than 500 concerts held each year, few are as uplifting as the stupendous Orfeó Català choir in full voice. Cafè Palau, which benefits from a terrace, offers modern cuisine and occasional free live performances.

Also located in the Barri Gòtic neighbourhood – a beautifully preserved area of Gothic buildings dating from the 14th and 15th centuries, replete with medieval lanes for meandering – is the Museu Picasso. Housed in five adjoining palaces, the museum charts Pablo Picasso’s artistic career chronologically from his arrival in Barcelona in 1895. It holds one of the world’s largest collections of his early works, including Home amb boina, inked with accomplished brush strokes when he was just a precocious 13-year-old. The artist’s extraordinary neoclassical period is well represented, while masterpieces such as the Seated Man reveal his sublime surreal style. Another painting shows the horse which later appeared in his famous mural, Guernica.

The bold, abstract works of another acclaimed 20th-century Spanish artist can be found in the modern, airy buildings of the Fundació Joan Miró. The output here, amassed by Barcelona native Miró over 60 prolific years, includes sculptures, drawings and textiles.

For those keen to view one of the finest collections of Romanesque art, the Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya is a must. It also houses a superb collection of medieval art, as well as works by Catalan artists originating from the 19th century to the modern day. Here you will also find Picasso’s wonderful 1937 ink of his lover Marie-Thérèse Walter, the magnificent Woman with Hat and Fur Collar.

Aficionados can conclude their inspirational art tour with stops at the Museu d’Art Contemporani and the adjacent Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelona, which display works by major Spanish and international artists. The latter, in particular, superbly showcases contemporary culture.

Ramble along La Rambla

A good way to start a day in Barcelona is to soak up the vibes of La Rambla, a central pedestrianised thoroughfare lined with cafés, tapas bars, enticing shops, flower stalls and exhibition spaces. After a morning coffee, pop into the city’s best and most famous food market, the Mercat de la Boqueria, to feast your eyes on row upon row of stalls selling everything from stacks of fruit to aromatic seafood to suckling pigs.

If you begin your ramble at the Old Port, Barcelona’s grand opera house – the Gran Teatre del Liceu – is located not far along La Rambla. Situated at this site in 1847, it has twice been gutted by fire, only to re-emerge phoenix-like, and is now fully restored. Today, it is famed for its sterling ballet recitals and symphony concerts. Further on, stop by the splendid Baroque palace known as Palau de la Virreina; it often hosts major art exhibitions and other cultural events.

The pavement of this bustling boulevard is embellished with colourful mosaics, one of which was weaved into beautiful abstract shapes in striking primary colours by the aforementioned Joan Miró. Indeed, many areas of Barcelona are enriched by street art courtesy of world-renowned names. A sip of water from the 19th-century fountain on La Rambla will ensure you fall in love with the city and always return.

Mediterranean treats

Barcelona has become a hotbed of culinary delights and food-scene creativity. Spawning a slew of world-class chefs – Fernando Adrià to name but one – the city has reinvented aspects of haute cuisine over the years. Classic Catalan cuisine often encapsulates the great produce of the Mediterranean – fish, prawns, cuttlefish, clams, pork, rabbit, game, olive oil, peppers and sprinklings of garlic. Striking pairings often feature, such as seafood with meat or fruit with fowl. For foodies craving cuttlefish and chickpeas, cured ham and caviar, or goose and pear, Barcelona is the place to be.

Popular with locals, Vivanda presents superb Catalan cooking with year-round garden dining on a tree-shaded terrace. Making use of regional ingredients, the chef’s preparations include the likes of egg with truffles, rice with cuttlefish and artichokes with romesco sauce. Dishes of the month hark back to traditional plates of yesteryear.

Situated beside an atmospheric square in Barri Gòtic, Cafè de L’Acadèmia has a beamed ceiling and stone walls, with low lighting enhancing the romantic ambience. Offerings such as salt cod gratinée with artichoke mousse and aubergine terrine with goat’s cheese are made from the freshest ingredients. Can Culletetes, dating back to 1786, is the city’s oldest restaurant and something of an institution. Located in an alley just off La Rambla, it serves succulent dishes infused with traditional Catalan cooking techniques.

The nightlife is another enticing feature of this city of many faces. There’s a dizzying assortment of bars to suit every taste, and whether low-key, candle-lit drinking holes in the medieval quarter, throbbing Modernista spaces, wine and cava hangouts, or happening clubs, they all keep the vibes on a high. Settle back, perhaps, in one of the plush green banquettes at Dry Martini to sip some of the best cocktails in town. With bars and eateries aplenty dotted along the beach promenade, Barcelona’s seafront is also a great place to relax and take in the Mediterranean night air.

Classical Beauty: Follow in the fascinating footsteps of great Western thinkers on a tour of ancient Athens

Athens is known as the cradle of Western civilisation for good reason – full of classical, marble-pillared edifices to the foremost minds of ancient Greece, it is a place of importance and influence that lingers into the modern day. Here, ancient ruins form the magnificent backdrop to teeming markets, cafés and tavernas, a melting pot of cultures in a city that gained fame as a centre of art and literature, commerce and industry, and above all, philosophy and oratory. The ideas originating out of Athens, which spawned great thinkers thousands of years ago, are still discussed, debated and pored over today. Ultimately, this is a city like no other.

Acropolis wow

The world-famous Acropolis is one of the most iconic monuments in the whole of Greece as well as Europe, and perhaps the wider world. Open all year round, this jewel is quite simply a must-visit for its cultural significance and its broader architectural importance. Despite the wider urban sprawl, the temples on the ‘Sacred Rock’ of Athens still command an imposing presence, especially at night or viewed from the right angle – such as driving east on the so-called Sacred Way, otherwise known as Iera Odos, from Eleusis to Athens. Marvelling at its immense rocky bulk from Plaka – an old quarter clustering at the foot of the Acropolis, which itself is steeped with archaeological sites both large and small – is also awe-inspiring.

The most recognisable of the monumental structures is the Parthenon, whose decorative sculptures are considered by many as the epitome of ancient Greek classical art. Historically, it was presented as a magnificent ‘Temple to the Virgin’ in 438 BC, namely the goddess Athena, who was represented by a giant gold and ivory sculpture. The temple took nine years to complete and over the years has served as a church, a mosque and even an arsenal.

A portion of the Parthenon frieze, a stretch of sculpted figures that ran around the inner wall, now resides in the British Museum. These are known as the Elgin Marbles in reference to Lord Elgin who had negotiated a permit from sultan of the Ottoman Empire to remove “some blocks of stone with inscriptions and figures” in 1801; the exact terms of this deal remain a source of contention between the governments of Greece and the UK.

Ancient wonder

Sculptures left behind by Elgin are housed in the Acropolis Museum, situated below the Parthenon near the Akropoli metro station. Amazing authentic fragments are mounted at eye level in the museum, while the rest is a plaster cast awaiting a possible future – and campaigned-for – return to their original site. They are all displayed in the order in which they would have graced the Parthenon.

Containing a slew of treasures found in and around the Acropolis, this glittering all-glass museum offers great insight into the daily life of ancient Athens. The building harnesses natural light for the best presentation of these relics, and its glass floor allows visitors to gaze down at the site of an early Christian settlement. Marvel at the Peplos Kore, an Archaic votive statue retaining exquisite and intricate detail such as traces of paint visible on her eyes, lips and curly hair. Then delight in the form of another Archaic sculpture dating back to 570 BC – a bearded man carrying a calf as a sacrificial offering for Athena.

Theatre under the stars

Cut into the southern cliff face of the Acropolis is the enduring cultural legacy of the Theatre of Dionysus. Some 17,000 Athenians would amass on its tiered stone steps, entranced by dramatists like Aristophanes, Menander, Sophocles, Aeschylus and Euripides. The Odeon of Herodes Atticus, an immensely tall late addition to the Acropolis, often served as a venue for the enactment of ancient Greek tragedies. It now plays host to modern-day singers, dancers and actors during the glorious moonlit performances of the Athens Epidaurus Festival.

Below the Acropolis is another amazing heartbeat of the ancient world, the Agora, where the likes of Socrates, Aristotle and Paul the Apostle once held court. This marketplace with its council buildings, law courts and thronging streets formed the political focal point of ancient Athens from 600 BC, and some academics suggest it was where democracy breathed into life. An interesting historical nugget is that speeches made at the Agora were strictly timed using a water clock called a clepsydra.

The complex also contains the Stoa of Attalos, a world-class museum within a magnificent two-storey structure that was built by King Attalus of Pergamon between 159 and 138 BC, and reconstructed by the American School of Classical Studies at Athens in the 1950s.

Sculpted splendour

Also well worth a visit is the National Archaeological Museum, considered one of the finest museums anywhere and packed full of great works spanning the Neolithic and Bronze Ages right up to the Roman era. Its Bronze collection boasts a breathtaking 460 BC sculpture of either Poseidon or Zeus, while its Hellenistic statuary exhibits the vigorous movement and sensuality characteristic of sculptures in this period.

Some of the works housed in the Museum of Cycladic Art – such as the early Bronze Age female marble statuettes – have inspired the artists of today. Fantastic Greek art from Neolithic times to the modern day can be admired at the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture, where more than 6,000 objects are displayed over four floors. Meanwhile, the Byzantine and Christian Museum showcases some 25,000 exhibits, offering a unique insight into Greek heritage.

Located southeast of the Acropolis is ancient Greece’s most colossal temple. The Temple of Olympian Zeus was conceived circa 515 BC by the tyrant Peisistratos, yet political turmoil delayed its completion until AD 131 under Roman Emperor Hadrian. Sixteen magnificent columns survive from the original 104.

Turning back the clock

At the Roman Agora, which supplanted the Greek Agora as the commercial and administrative centre during Roman rule, a stream ran down from the Acropolis to operate a water clock known as the Tower of the Winds. This superb octagonal tower was masterminded by Syrian astronomer Andronikos Kyrrhestes in about 50 BC.

Remnants of the outer wall of ancient Athens can be seen at Kerameikos, providing a fascinating insight into life and death in this classical city. Used as a burial ground since the 12th century BC, this sacred place comprises a series of elaborate tombs, temples and roads, and even an ancient brothel.

Shop and graze

Moving onto modern attractions rooted in history, one of the liveliest and most colourful areas in Athens is Monastiraki. Located against the wondrous backdrop of the Acropolis, its bustling maze of alleys and pedestrianised streets encompass the remains of the aforementioned Greek and Roman agora and are brimming with shops, clubs, bars and taverns. A thriving area day and night, the Monastiraki neighbourhood take its name from the restored church in the centre of its lively square.

Perhaps Athens’ most popular shopping thoroughfare is Ermou Street, which starts from the west side of Syntagma Square and leads to Monastiraki. Lined with designer boutiques, coffee shops and department stores, it guides visitors down to a funky flea market where a row of souvenir shops awaits.

Edible art

Blessed with a wide range of Mediterranean influences, the culinary delights of Greece exhibit diverse flavours. Athens offers a great range of restaurants serving favourites from moussaka to grilled seafood to souvlaki (chicken, pork or lamb spit-roasted for hours) on a bed of vegetables. Varvakios Agora (Central Market) affords the ideal opportunity to sample some of the local Greek cuisine.

Spondi is considered one of Athens’ most sophisticated restaurants. Its exquisitely prepared haute cuisine may include signatures like crab with turnip, honey, tarragon and passiflora, and venison in Sarawak pepper crust.

Alpine Attitude: In winter, Austria’s Arlberg hills are alive with the sound of skiers – and après party animals

The skiing opportunities in Austria are simply breathtaking. Deeply embedded into the culture of this landlocked Alpine nation during the winter months, the pastime is taken super seriously. Most forms of winter sports are available, with alpine and Nordic skiing the most common, while snowboarding, cross-country skiing and sledging are also popular.

For those attracted to nightlife as well as outdoor leisure, many of the famous ski resorts have also accrued a reputation for their après-ski shenanigans as much as for the skiing itself – none more so, perhaps, than St Anton am Arlberg in the west of the country.

Topping the lot

The global reputation of the Arlberg ski region emerged in the late 19th century, following the opening of the Arlberg railway tunnel in 1884. Ski-Club Arlberg, the first ski club in the Alps, opened in 1901 and St Anton’s inaugural ski school was established in 1924. The sleepy village was well on the way to becoming an iconic venue for winter sports enthusiasts.

St Anton is now considered the zenith of Austrian alpine skiing, and the country’s renown as a ski paradise came partly on the back of this amazing resort. It is connected by state-of-the-art ski lifts and cable cars to nearby villages to form one huge contiguous ski area. The Arlberg massif region in Vorarlberg boasts a vast ski terrain encompassing 300 kilometres (186 miles) of slopes.

The sport is certainly challenging here, and there are plenty of off-piste opportunities for those who want to test themselves, with about 200 kilometres of backcountry terrain beckoning thrill-seekers. The adrenaline will certainly be pumping on many of the exhilarating descents, not least the Kandahar run on Galzig. The views are stunning, and the well-maintained slopes provide top-notch exercise for much of the winter.

Ski stars

Arlberg boasts three top-notch ski resorts: St Anton – St Christoph – Stuben, which are connected by cable car; its over-the-valley neighbour Lech – Oberlech – Zürs; and Warth-Schröcken. St Anton’s epic Run of Fame is a spectacular marathon taking in the entire Ski Arlberg area. As the longest ski circuit in the Alps, covering 85 kilometres and an altitude difference of 18,000 metres (59,055 feet), it takes the best part of a day to complete and traverses three mountain passes – Arlberg, Flexen and Hochtannberg. The route pays homage to the many ski pioneers, athletes and movie stars who have popularised these slopes over the years, leaving their indelible footprints in the snow.

Indeed, Ski Arlberg has so much to offer for all levels of skiers. There are endless signposted runs, ultra-modern cable cars, fantastic powder-snow slopes, and practice areas for young skiers and beginners, as well as a multitude of sports facilities, from fun parks to carving areas to race courses.

Food with a view

Part of the joy of skiing in Austria are the scrumptious culinary delights served in the local restaurants and huts, and St Anton offers some of the best. Perched at 2,085 metres and billed as one of the highest gourmet restaurants in Europe, Verwallstube is worth a visit for the amazing mountain views alone. In the winter months, it opens daily for lunch, while weekly evening candlelight dinners accompanied by piano music are a special experience. Meticulously arranged dishes infused with uplifting flavours range from bouillabaisse to beautifully tender veal cheeks braised in red wine. Truffle mash adds additional charm to the meal.

On the edge of St Anton village, Museum Restaurant-Café is another excellent choice with a wonderful ambience. Housed in the St Anton Museum, this charming wood-panelled venue serves Austrian cuisine and offers private dining and vegetarian and vegan options. It has the most succulent Tyrolean beef, lamb or trout on a menu prepared with both creativity and tradition. Try the winter salad with caramelised nuts, pear and smoked goose breast, then treat yourself to the mouth-watering crème brûlée.

The fine international cuisine and excellent wine list at Hazienda, located in the basement of the four-star M3 Hotel, draw in gourmet skiers. Superb pasta dishes and veal are a forte. Classic Austrian restaurant Fuhrmannstube by Buffy is a cosy hideaway, great for tucking into venison stew, traditional dumplings known as knödel, or copious helpings of strudel.

Après adventuring

St Anton is noted the world over for its après-ski options – think crazy, fun-filled drinking houses brimming with raucous revellers on a high from the day’s excursions on the glorious Alpine slopes. At the legendary MooserWirt, which has been opening its doors to boisterous skiers since 1989, expect loud Austrian music and party-goers dancing on tables, sweating in their salopettes. To the backdrop of non-stop après-ski hits mixed by famous DJs, guzzle down a wide variety of beers to your heart’s content – the venue reportedly gets through a staggering 5,000 litres a day. It’s also a wonderful place to make new friends for the following day’s skiing, but make sure you leave your skis in a safe, easy-to-find spot as you will need them to get back down the slope after your drinking games.

There are plenty of other notable après-ski hangouts. Sennhütte has a lovely sunlit terrace affording superb mountain views. Tables bounce with skiers swaying with delight to local bands playing country or rock music designed to get the party in full schnapps-happy swing. Just to its north is Heustadl, another hotspot usually bursting at the seams. Located near the end of run no. 50, it offers live music to 6 pm.

Billed as St Anton’s oldest après-ski haunt, Krazy Kanguruh – owned by Austrian skiing legend Mario Matt – is a lively slopeside bar with a great terrace overlooking the village. It is usually loud, fun and jam-packed from 5 pm to closing around 8 pm. Enjoy the moment as you swig intoxicating tequila and consume quality nosh before getting back on your skis to slide gracefully down to the valley.

Other runs around

The villages of Lech and Zürs are linked to St Anton over the mountains but are still relatively isolated. With distance comes exclusivity, and Zürs, in particular, has garnered a reputation as one of the most renowned winter sports resorts in the Alps, beloved by the well-heeled and international glitterati.

Austria has many splendid ski areas aside from Ski Arlberg. The season at Ischgl in Tyrol normally runs until early May since it sits at 2,872 metres above sea level and offers 239 kilometres of pistes, with some as long as 11km. It provides skiing for all levels, and the more accomplished aficionados will be attracted by its daunting slopes of 70% gradient or steeper.

Silvretta Arena ski resort comprises Ischgl and the Swiss village of Samnaun in the Grisons, which has the added advantage of being a duty-free zone. The Smuggler’s Trail, straggling the Austria-Switzerland border, allows skiers and snowboarders to explore old smuggling routes. The season here starts on 30 November 2024 when English singer-songwriter Ellie Goulding performs at the Top of the Mountain Opening Concert at Silvretta car park against the unforgettable backdrop of the Tyrolean mountains. Another bonus is the foodie’s paradise of Ischgl’s many restaurants.

Schladming-Dachstein in Styria has some of Austria’s most impressive mountains for skiing and a 230km-expanse of slopes. A high altitude ensures reliable snow coverage at SkiWelt Wilder Kaiser – Brixental in Tyrol, which has had the distinction of being voted the best ski resort in the world on several occasions. Blessed with wide pistes and panoramic views, Tyrol’s Zillertal Arena has the claim to fame for hosting one of the country’s longest descents. It also offers plentiful après-ski entertainment.

Meanwhile, having Austria’s only ski area with three peaks topping 3,000 metres as well as two glaciers, the popular resort of Sölden in Tyrol is guaranteed to produce wow moments.

Unreal Madrid: Stupendous art and architecture, amazing culture and incredible food all score highly in the Spanish capital

Madrid has been described as the sunniest, liveliest and highest capital in Europe. It has rightly garnered a fine reputation for the magnificence of its cultural offerings. There is an incredible array of activities and sightseeing opportunities in this Spanish city full of passion and many layers of history. Arrivals are warmly welcomed and those on short stopovers will need to be selective in order to make the most of what is sure to be a memorable visit.

Madrid is a marvellous destination to visit all-year round, but in October, the vibrant cosmopolitan melting pot offers beautiful clear days and eye-catching autumnal colours in the majestic parks. There are also many festivals and events to enjoy during this season. Naturally, a major capital such as Madrid is blessed with a slew of luxury hotels, as well as great historic hostelries with wonderful neoclassical facades, and even transformed century-old palaces with all the modern comforts.

Museum mile

Madrid is teeming with museums and galleries and is considered one of the world’s premier art venues. It boasts a magnificent golden mile of art, the Paseo del Prado, a boulevard lined with important art galleries. In fact, outstanding galleries are dotted throughout the city, allowing visitors to soak up world-class art culture.

One of the most famous is Museo Nacional del Prado, housed in Juan de Vilanueva’s imposing neoclassical building, an architectural masterpiece in its own right. There are many notable works here, including inks by Spanish masters, most notably Goya. Great pieces from Rubens, Rembrandt, Botticelli, Bosch and many others grace the splendid walls.

Goya’s paintings can also be admired on the ceiling of Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida, once a humble hermitage, now a chapel with a resplendent series of frescoes completed under royal orders in 1798. The artist is actually buried here, in front of the altar. More from the great Spanish romantic painter can be seen in Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando, a prestigious art school.

Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia displays some of Europe’s finest 20th-century art, and is particularly noted as the home of Picasso’s sensory masterpiece Guernica. Works by Salvador Dali and Joan Miró also act as a magnet for art enthusiasts. An added bonus is that the museum’s glass lifts offer panoramic views of one of Europe’s finest cities.

Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza hangs the works of scores of leading European painters from the 14th century onwards, all nestled within a gorgeous salmon-pink interior colour scheme. Museo Cerralbo contains an astonishingly diverse collection of works and artifacts – paintings, porcelain, sculptures, tapestries, glassware and more – housed within a beautiful palace that offers a glimpse into the life of Spanish aristocracy more than a century ago.

The Essential Paseo del Arte app is designed to help you discover 24 great masterpieces in these museums in an easy and accessible way. It offers a complete tour of the History of Western Art in the heart of Madrid.

From palace to plaza

An elegant and visually uplifting city, Madrid showcases many centuries of architectural grandeur. The changing of the guard at Palacio Real on the first Wednesday of the month (except August and September) is an amazing spectacle and is performed with musical tunes like El Almirante, Doña Francisquita, and España Cañí bellowing out. To put it in historical context, this awe-inspiring spectacle, choreographed to perfection, remains exactly how it was performed in the times of King Alfonso XII and King Alfonso XIII. The uniforms are the same, and a total of 400 people and 100 horses stage this majestic display.

This stunning 18th-century baroque palace of more than 3,400 rooms was built by Felipe V with the intention of dwarfing those of his European counterparts. Great views of this sumptuous royal residence can be obtained through the trees of the northern end of Plaza de Oriente, as well as from the western side, via the ornamental gardens of Campo del Moro.

The district known as Old Madrid has a plethora of must-visit squares. Lined with cafes and traditional restaurants and with an equestrian statue of Felipe II at its centre, Plaza Mayor is steeped in history. Sit and soak up the intoxicating buzz, scale and detail of this majestic heartbeat of Madrid with its slate spires and deep-ochre façades offset by intricate frescoes and fantastic wrought-iron balconies. A vibrant locale to start a night out in Madrid, Plaza de Santa Ana is a centrally located pedestrianised square dotted with monuments and historical importance.

Tapas temperament

One of Europe’s culinary capitals, Madrid has no shortage of great places for foodies to indulge their cravings. Food from all regions of Spain can be sampled here, and eating is considered one of life’s great pleasures. The idea of going out to eat tapas – which can mean eating almost anything – is deeply ingrained in the culture. Madrid’s oldest and perhaps most beautiful market, Mercado de San Miguel, is the perfect place to sample all forms of tapas (from chocolate to caviar) at tables within its stunning 20th-century glass walls.

Local specialities include sopa de ajo (garlic soup) and the hearty stew of cocido madrileña, a kind of noodle broth combining carrots, chickpeas, chicken, blood sausage, beef, lard and perhaps other sausage meat. Roasted meat like cordero lechal asado – spring lamb cooked in a wood-fired oven – and, of course, the country’s famed jamón (cured ham), are also commonly served.

Madrid boasts one of the largest fish markets in the world. Boiled octopus, all manner of shellfish, anchovies, cod and more are favourites, perhaps consumed as a seafood-laden rice dish, something which has been turned into a local art form.

Taverna time

Visiting one of the 100 or so remaining traditional tabernas (taverns) is a must. Each is considered unique, though they share some common distinguishing features – a large clock standing guard over a carved wooden bar that often holds wine flasks cooled by running water, an interior lined with ceramic, and marble table tops. Restaurante Botín, founded in 1725, is thought to be the world’s oldest continuously functioning restaurant. Featuring in books by Hemingway, Forsythe and others, this taberna has excellent roasted meats to enjoy at tables in a vaulted cellar, conjuring up a wonderful ambience. A small, convivial bar of many decades standing, Casa Revuelta serves excellent boneless fried cod.

La Venecia is an old-style bar where Sherry is poured straight from the barrel. A great place to soak up the essence of Madrid, it is just a short walk from Plaza de Santa Ana and simply drips with Spanish history. Spanish-style hot chocolate – thick, dark and strong – has been served at Chocolateria San Ginés since 1894, along with churros (fried dough) for dunking.

Living culture

From a culinary night out to a cultural feast, Teatro Circo Price is the home of avant-garde theatrical performances, while Corral de la Moreria offers the chance to watch superb flamenco dancing and dine on innovative Spanish fare. Café Central draws admirers of jazz. La Noche Boca Arriba, a popular nightclub, proffers great food and great music.

For those who like to shop before sipping Sangria or a Sherry cocktail, designer boutiques can be found in the upmarket Salamanca district, an elegant location hailed as a fashionista’s dream come true.

On 12 October, Spanish National Day, the city will be abuzz with military parades, cultural performances, sporting events, street parties and communal meals. November heralds the Festival de Otoño, a joyous celebration of drama, ballet and opera; the 42nd Madrid Autumn Festival, presenting an outstanding international programme of arts; and the JazzMadrid24, featuring some of the great artists of the genre. Other festivals this autumn include Suma Flamenca, which showcases flamenco in all its enticingly splendid forms.