Steak Reclaimed: Sharing plates showcasing simple, honest flavours are the new dining highs at Porterhouse

An evening at Porterhouse is like stepping into the clouds – literally – and a whole new world of dining. Perched on the 24th floor of Lan Kwai Fong’s California Tower, this iconic restaurant has traded its traditional steakhouse roots for a lively, inclusive and visually stunning communal experience that perfectly captures Hong Kong’s vibrant multicultural spirit. With sweeping skyline views, a playful yet sophisticated atmosphere, and a menu that champions ‘Small Plates, Big Joy’, Porterhouse is redefining what it means to dine together in the city’s heart.

Executive Chef Michael ‘Mick’ Bolam, the well-travelled Australian culinary mastermind behind this transformation, outlines his vision: “Our focus is on creating simple, genuine dishes that showcase the quality of our ingredients.”

Sharing menus are inspiring and often daring. Ours begins with Milk of the Tiger, a delicate, fresh scallop bathed in buttermilk and coconut milk, topped with Mexican ancho chilli oil. It’s a beautiful way to awaken the senses, balancing sweetness with a smoky kick. As Bolam puts it, “Our dishes are about honest flavours; simple, genuine, yet refined.” You can really taste that philosophy here. This dish sets the tone for the evening: a celebration of fresh ingredients crafted with mindful simplicity.

Moving on, ‘Bang Bang’ Shrimp is an instant hit – crispy, spicy and coated in Chef Mick’s signature ‘danger sauce’. It’s the kind of snack that makes you want to double down and order more. The shrimp are wrapped in a flaky brik pastry that crunches satisfyingly with each bite, making it perfect for sharing. It’s one of those small plates that makes you feel like you’re part of a large, lively gathering rather than dining with just one close friend.

The menu’s fusion twist shines brightest with the next arrival, Uni Toast. Toasted charcoal bread cradles a generous heap of creamy sea urchin, topped with salmon roe and shiso leaf. It’s a luxurious bite that transports you straight to the coast, blending Asian oceanic flavours with a Western-style presentation. The chef explains: “We respect traditional techniques but aren’t afraid to push boundaries.” That’s evident here; it’s a dish that’s both familiar and fearless.

The Tableside Surf ‘n’ Turf Style Wagyu Beef Tartare is an edible spectacle that will leave you awestruck! Imagine a luxurious canvas awaiting your artistic touch. With a medley of intriguing ingredients, including the savory Lap Cheong sausage and the oceanic burst of salmon roe, you’ll be the maestro of your own gastronomic masterpiece. The experience is as much about the theatre as it is about the taste – savoring each delicate bite is like unwrapping a present on your palate.

But if you crave something more substantial, the Roasted Bone Marrow is a soul-warming indulgence. Imagine a tender, velvety bone marrow experience, elevated by the subtle nuances of Cambodian pepper and salt, all wrapped in a fragrant herb salad and served with crispy sourdough bread – the perfect comfort food to wrap your senses around.

For something heartier, Lamb Skewer is a revelation. Marinated overnight and grilled to perfection, each tender piece is served with a sweet Gorgonzola dressing and poached pear, an unexpected yet harmonious pairing.

And then, for the grand finale, the dessert recommendation: house-made Hong Kong milk tea ice cream. Rich, gooey and decadently sweet, it’s the perfect shareable treat for two, sealing the meal with a lush, comforting note.

As our night out draws to a close, Chef Mick’s vision is crystal clear. “Creating memorable, culturally rich dining experiences isn’t just about the food,” he shares. “It’s about the stories we tell and the connections we make.” And true enough, at Porterhouse that vision is now soaring alongside the city’s breathtaking skyline.

Porterhouse. 24/F, California Tower 30-36 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong.

Tel: 2522 6366. lkfconcepts.com

HARBOUR OF HARMONY: Settle back at Minato’s teppan tables for a serene seasonal voyage through bountiful Japan

Minato has been quietly redefining the Japanese dining experience since opening in Wan Chai last summer. It’s an oasis of the calm and contemplation where aficionados can immerse themselves in the seasonality, craftsmanship and quiet luxury of elevated teppanyaki, kaiseki, omakase and sushi.

The very name Minato, which means harbour in Japanese, sets the tone for an occasion that promotes refuge and cultural exchange. The urban hustle outside quickly fades into stillness as we are graciously steered through serene, spacious surroundings to our table. Shoji screens diffuse soft lighting, wooden elements add organic warmth, and a palette of calming green tones enhances the aura of elegant minimalism.

The Tsubaki Weekend Teppanyaki Dinner Set is also aptly named – the camellia (tsubaki) is a symbol of grace and beauty in Japanese culture, and the nine-course culinary journey we embark upon is as delicately balanced and elegantly structured as the flower. The set encapsulates the ethos of Minato – seasonal stories told through flavour, aroma, temperature and timing.

A meticulously plated appetiser prepares the stage for an artful presentation of toro, botan shrimp and striped jack flown in daily from Japan’s fish markets. The sashimi course is not just a tasting but a quiet meditation on freshness and balance.

The toro is rich and luxuriously marbled, melting on the tongue with a buttery smoothness that defines top-grade fatty belly of the bluefin tuna. Prized for its size and sweetness, the botan shrimp arrives with a translucent hue, its plump flesh offering a crisp snap and lingering ocean sweetness. The white trevally, with its clean, lightly oily profile, offers a refined contrast to the other two cuts.

We continue with two seafood treasures cooked on the teppan with care. Black tiger prawn is plump and meaty, its natural sweetness enhanced by minimal seasoning and masterful handling. The crustacean is grilled until just opaque, releasing a subtle, smoky aroma.

Accompanying it is South African abalone, thinly sliced to preserve its tenderness yet retain its characteristic chewy texture and deep, mineral-rich flavour. Lightly seasoned and seared, the prized mollusc is a study in restraint, underscoring how expert technique and quality ingredients can speak volumes without embellishment.

At the heart of the Tsubaki set is Minato’s crown jewel: A5 Miyazaki sliced wagyu beef. Boasting a BMS (beef marbling score) of 12 – the highest rating – this world-renowned wagyu is sourced from Miyazaki Prefecture, where cattle are raised under strict conditions to deliver beef of incomparable quality. The wagyu is lightly seared and wrapped with garlic and green onion, a simple but brilliant pairing that enhances its umami depth without distracting from its intrinsic richness. The beef glistens as it hits the plate, and each bite yields an exquisite juxtaposition of seared outer edge and melting interior.

Then comes another house signature, Japanese pepper with whitebait fried rice, a dish as comforting as it is refined. With sansho pepper adding a gentle numbing tingle, the crispy whitebait offers bright, comforting contrast to the indulgent wagyu we have just enjoyed. Here again, the balance between richness and freshness is maintained with elegant precision – a hallmark of Japanese cuisine.

Seasonal vegetables follow, grilled to accentuate their natural sweetness and earthiness; next, a warming bowl of miso soup and a serving of house pickles. These familiar elements return the elevated dining experience to its humble roots while cleansing the palate in preparation for the final course.

A beautifully crafted dessert of green tea roll cake paired with red bean mochi completes the journey, focusing on light textures and harmonious flavours rather than strong sweetness. Our meal is enhanced by attentive yet unobtrusive service and sake selections to augment each course.

Dining at Minato is an invitation to pause and immerse yourself fully in the moment. There is no excess, no flamboyance – only harmony, balance and deep respect for the culinary traditions of Japan.

Minato. G/F, Great Eagle Centre, 23 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong. Tel: 2345 0663. minato.com.hk

Text: Jill Trip

Manfully Majestic: Forever authentic yet modern, refined Cantonese cuisine shines at Man Ho

A Blend of Elegance and Tradition

Stepping into Man Ho, guests are enveloped in understated elegance. The décor fuses traditional Chinese motifs with modern sophistication. Rich wood paneling, intricate latticework, and warm amber lighting create a serene yet luxurious atmosphere. Details like porcelain vases and traditional paintings add authenticity and charm. The spacious layout with plush seating and private dining rooms ensures comfort, privacy, and an ideal setting for intimate gatherings or special celebrations. Large windows offer stunning views of Hong Kong, particularly magical at night when the city lights sparkle.

Exemplary Service

The service at Man Ho is nothing short of exemplary, befitting its five-star hotel location. The staff are polished, warm, and knowledgeable, striking the perfect balance between attentiveness and discretion. From the moment guests are seated, meticulous care is evident: napkins are unfurled with flair, glasses are attentively refilled, and menu recommendations are offered with genuine enthusiasm.

The team’s deep understanding of the menu ensures diners feel guided and comfortable, whether they are seasoned Cantonese cuisine enthusiasts or first-timers. This personalized approach sets Man Ho apart.

A Celebration of Cantonese Cuisine

At the heart of Man Ho is its carefully curated menu, celebrating the traditions of Cantonese cuisine while introducing modern touches. The menu features dim sum, barbecue specialties, seafood, and meat dishes, all crafted with premium ingredients and meticulous technique.

For lunch, the dim sum is a standout. Classics like har gow (shrimp dumplings) and siu mai (pork and shrimp dumplings) are served steaming hot, with delicate, translucent wrappers encasing flavorful fillings. The baked abalone puff with chicken is a decadent treat, with a buttery pastry shell and savory filling. Vegetarian options, such as mushroom and truffle dumplings, are equally impressive, delivering rich umami flavors.

Dinner showcases Cantonese cuisine at its finest. Roasted Peking duck, with its crispy skin and tender meat, is a highlight, served with traditional pancakes, scallions, and hoisin sauce. The crispy chicken with garlic is another favorite, combining perfectly crisp skin, juicy meat, and the tantalizing aroma of fried garlic.

Seafood lovers will relish the steamed garoupa with soy sauce, a dish that epitomizes the Cantonese philosophy of minimal intervention to let fresh ingredients shine. The garoupa’s natural sweetness is enhanced by a delicately balanced soy sauce.

Seasonal Specialties and Perfect Pairings

Man Ho’s seasonal specialties reflect the chef’s dedication to premium ingredients. Braised abalone with oyster sauce is a celebration dish, served tender yet toothsome atop seasonal greens. Another signature, wok-fried Australian wagyu beef cubes with black pepper, boasts melt-in-the-mouth tenderness and bold, robust flavors.

To end the meal, the dessert menu offers sweet finales like double-boiled almond cream with egg white, which is light, fragrant, and soothing. Chilled mango sago cream with pomelo provides a refreshing mix of sweet, tart, and chewy textures.

The restaurant also boasts an impressive wine list, with options curated to complement Cantonese flavors. From crisp whites to robust reds, the sommelier offers thoughtful pairings. The exceptional tea selection is served in elegant porcelain pots, adding a traditional touch.

A Culinary Masterclass

Dining at Man Ho is a premium experience, justified by the exceptional quality of ingredients, the chefs’ skill, and the impeccable service. Whether for business lunches, family celebrations, or special occasions, Man Ho delivers a meal worth savoring.

Man Ho Chinese Restaurant. 3/F, JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong. Tel: 2810 8366. marriott.com

Tapas Untamed: Experience the flowing flavours and boundless vibrancy of a Spanish fiesta at Qué Pasa

With its inviting juxtaposition of warm-bricked and pale-painted walls, large open windows that let in the afternoon sun, and a high, exposed ceiling adorned with tanks of flowing signature drinks, you can feel the lively Spanish spirit the moment you step inside Qué Pasa Tapas y Vino. Making its debut last November, this Tai Hang haven has rapidly become the go-to hotspot for comforting tapas and expertly charred grilled dishes. It delightfully blends great value with bold flavours that echo the vibrancy of its Spanish roots.

Diners flock here not just for the tantalising dishes but also for the lively atmosphere that encourages communal dining – something Chef Amaru Morales, the culinary mastermind behind the restaurant, aims to celebrate. He is passionate about authenticity and flavour, and his commitment shines through each dish. From the toasted Tomato Bread to the lavish Ham Bikini, each offering has been perfected with painstaking detail. A personal favourite? The Gazpacho – a refreshing blend of ripe tomatoes and aromatic garlic that bursts with flavour and is perfect for cleansing the palate.

“Tapas is all about sharing, celebrating and enjoying food with others,” says Morales. “Creating an inclusive dining culture allows guests to explore diverse flavours, just as you would with family-style dining back in Latin America.”

Indulge in crowd-pleasing choices like juicy Spanish Meatballs braised in tomato sauce and Braised Tripe Stew, a dish slow-cooked for more than six hours that melts in your mouth. For those seeking heartier gratification, Qué Pasa has options that will leave you grinning from ear to ear. The char-grilled 250g Ribeye Steak and ¼ Suckling Pig are the stars of a tempting charcoal-oven listing that will undoubtedly satisfy any untamed cravings.

On weekends, Qué Pasa presents an à la carte brunch that encourages diners to mix and match their Spanish-inspired favourites. Fancy a luxurious start to your day? Awaken your taste buds with the likes of Eggs Flamenco or Steak and Eggs for a decadent meal that’s bound to invoke lazy Sunday vibes. Elevate your brunch with a selection of add-on tapas such as Boquerones (anchovies) and crispy Croquettes of mushroom or cod, or even freshly shucked Oysters that simply scream indulgence.

Oh, and let’s not forget the drinks: a 90-minute free-flow package includes refreshing Spanish cava, house wines and vibrant mocktails. What more can you ask for on a leisurely weekend?

As we explore the culinary offerings of Qué Pasa, it’s impossible not salute the creative genius behind the menu. Born in Ecuador and raised in Chile, Chef Amaru’s culinary journey echoes the rich heritage of Spanish cuisine infused with South American charm. “I was exposed to a melange of tastes while working across continents – from mastering French techniques in Hong Kong to embracing the heartiness of South American cooking,” he shares excitedly. “Now, I pour all that into creating a menu that champions authenticity while offering Hong Kong diners a taste of home.”

His passion for ethical kitchen practices is equally commendable. Partnering with environmentally-conscious seafood suppliers, the chef ensures that patrons savour fresh and sustainable dishes that honour Mother Earth while delighting the palate.

Not only is Qué Pasa dedicated to serving delectable dishes, but it is also committed to being an active community hub. “We strive to create a warm ambience where diners feel like family,” reflects Morales. The restaurant features large communal tables and an open kitchen that invites all-comers to watch the magic as it happens – a reminder that food is best enjoyed together.

In line with its community spirit, Qué Pasa regularly hosts events and workshops to promote culinary engagement, letting you bask in the joy of sharing incredible experiences as well as food.

So, slip into your comfiest shoes, gather your friends and family, and head over to Qué Pasa Tapas y Vino for a congenial culinary adventure that promises to leave you craving more. After all, who can resist a fiesta of flavours, warmth and laughter?

Que Pasa. GF, 98 Tung Lo Wan Rd, Tai Hang, Hong Kong Tel: +852 9169 0298. quepasatapas.com

Photos: Que Pasa Tapas y Vino Video: Jack Fontanilla

Don Appétit: Savouring the flavours of celebrated chef Donovan Cooke’s life’s work

In the realm of gastronomy, there are chefs, and then there are culinary storytellers – those who, through their craft, weave together the flavours of their past, their journeys and their passion. Veteran chef Donovan Cooke, the creative genius behind the culinary magic at his new venture, Causeway Bay-based Donovan, is undoubtedly one such storyteller. His modern European menu has quickly captured the attention of the city’s foodies, making it a must-go-to restaurant for anybody looking for great food in the bustling heart of Hong Kong.

“The inspiration for the restaurant is basically being here in Hong Kong. I’m in the middle of the world with some of the best ingredients from around the world, and I have an opportunity to use and showcase the best of the ingredients following the seasons – and not so much following the seasons,” the chef laughs as he explains his ethos. “However, we are trying to maintain sustainability, and at the same time evolve classical combinations – which I’ve been doing for 40 years – in a more modern way.”

The roving Briton has been an instrumental figurehead in the fine- dining scene of wherever he has landed. At a young age, he was seasoned and nurtured in traditional French cuisine by the legendary, then-two-Michelin-starred Marco Pierre White at Harveys in London.

Embarking on his curious global journey, he headed first to France and then Australia, where his footprint was recognised by multiple accolades. Melbourne newspaper The Age’s Good Food Guide named him Chef of the Year in 2003 and 2004. He also made appearances on the reality TV show MasterChef Australia and co-authored the award-winning cookbook, Marriages. His dedication to innovation and new culinary excellence then won the hearts of local socialites and celebrities during a six-year stint at the helm of Derby Restaurant and Bar at the Hong Kong Jockey Club.

With each step, he absorbed new techniques, flavours and inspirations, enriching his culinary palate and ultimately bringing him to a Hong Kong homecoming late last year. His self-titled restaurant artfully combines his own heritage with a global perspective – a testament to his eclectic journey, offering diners an experience that transcends borders.

“I want to showcase a vast array of dishes here in my new restaurant, and the best way to do that is to do a Japanese-style tasting menu,” he says. “It’s a journey of eight to 10-12 courses, starting with refreshing light and then moving on to a richer main course. In the past, when I did à la carte, people just go for the things that they’re safe or that they know, so I decided to do it omakase-style because I want people to taste lots of different things that they normally wouldn’t order.”

The dinner-tasting menu at the time of our review kicks off with an artistic ensemble of appetisers such as truffle macaron; parmesan tart with onions and flowers; chicken liver parfait, apple and prune; and the house signature soy-sauce brioche. These are followed by seared tuna belly decorated with spiced tartare, celeriac, truffle dashi and shiso; and the heady combination of the spiced roasted blue lobster with foie gras, fig, port wine, chocolate and coffee.

One of his standout dishes is smoked olive oil confit salmon, seasoned with leek, razor clam, bone broth, salmon roe and chive oil. It’s a culinary masterpiece that captures the essence of Chef Donovan on a plate.

A meat lover’s dream comes in the form of Pyrenees milk-fed baby lamb with girolles, gnocchi and thyme jus, and the cooked to a mouth-watering medium-rare, pepper-crusted wagyu 9+ sirloin atop onions, bone marrow and Bordelaise sauce.

Desserts of spiced roasted pineapple with pain d’épices ice cream and tonka bean panna cotta with rhubarb, honeycomb and Stone’s ginger wine jelly form a perfect palate cleanser to this savoury culinary adventure.

Amid the elegant ambience and the warm embrace of European hospitality, Donovan is a testament to the power of roots, the influence of loved ones and the fusion of global experiences into tantalising dishes that have earned the well-travelled chef countless plaudits for his unparalleled contributions to gastronomy.

Donovan, 16/F, Cubus, 1 Hoi Ping Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

Photos: DONOVAN Video: Jack Fontanilla

Hummus Hurrah: A home away from Beirut, Maison Libanaise brings epicurean joy to the heart of Hong Kong

The hubbub of laughter and feasting echoes against wood- block and salmon-pink painted walls and zellige tiles. Fine, dainty lamps suspended from the ceiling and no-fuss green wooden stools at the bar, while doing little to absorb the thrum, add lustre. Just these elements alone conjure an inviting haven for a long, slow nightcap after a long, frantic day.

Occupying a three-storey walk-up in the bustling SoHo district of Central, Maison Libanaise stands as a culinary oasis, offering a captivating escape to the vibrant flavours and rich traditions of Lebanon. With its warm ambience, friendly service and an extensive menu that showcases the best of the country’s cuisine, it has become a go-to destination for food enthusiasts seeking an authentic Middle Eastern experience – transporting diners to the streets of Beirut, or as Chef Teya Mikhael would have it, her childhood memory lane.

“My recipes are very home-inspired rather than restaurant-inspired,” she says. “We try to provide a real home experience. It’s a female-dominant kitchen, just like it is back home. It’s all mothers and ladies who give out dishes with so much love and so much beauty.” The exuberant chef bursts into laughter: “But I am not a mom – yet!”

Stepping inside Maison Libanaise is to be greeted by an inviting, cosy atmosphere, reminiscent of a traditional Lebanese home. It makes for an intimate experience – though perhaps a little too snug at times, depending on the size of the dining crowd. Just as personal is the service. Chef Mikhael chats to diners like she would to friends, sharing her personal recommendations from the drinks list which runs from Middle Eastern-inspired contemporary cocktails to largely familiar and beautiful wines.

“Lebanon has a really big wine scene with over 60 to 70 wineries’” she says. “Here, we have the biggest Lebanese wine list, which we really try to emphasise. The Lebanese way is best spent with wine in hand, over long and leisurely meals shared with friends and family. It’s so ingrained in me that I try to sneak a couple of bottles home whenever I can,” she adds, with a cheeky wink.

But what has seen the restaurant boom is the food – with guests returning many times to explore the broad menu designed around a charcoal and wood grill. Spices are sourced directly from Lebanon, with sumac, in particular, standing out. Enhancing the natural flavours of the food it is cooked with, deep- red sumac features in almost every dish in this vibrant restaurant. There are specific seasons for sumac berries and the tart, acidic spice is prepared and used in the traditional way. Like pomegranate molasses, which the culinary team also applies liberally, it is at the heart of Lebanese cuisine.

The new a la carte menu is inspired by dishes the chef made with her mother and grandmother when she was growing up. Each dish is an edible memoir of cherished recipes from her childhood in Lebanon, carefully curated and reimagined from her unique perspective. Exhibit A: Sujuk Bel Banadoura, a symphony of spicy, tangy and sweet notes showcasing grilled beef sausages with matbucha (Moroccan tomato salad) and pomegranate molasses.

Another crowd favourite, Hummus Araydis is a testament to the chef’s creative spirit, marrying her love for hummus with the fond memories of prawns she orders at her favourite beachside haunt. In this dish, the creamy chickpea purée dances with chives, coriander, lemon and chilli, and is crowned with prawns sautéed in Aleppo chilli oil.

Of course, Lebanese cuisine is entirely about the shared table, a balance of flavours and dishes, and the moment of bringing people together. The Mashewe Mshakal platter does just that, embracing beef kafta, beef skewers, shish taouk (chicken kebab), lamb chops and vegetable skewers accompanied with hearth-baked pita bread, sumac-roasted tomato, grilled onion and the holy trinity of harissa, toum and tahini (red chilli-, garlic- and sesame-based relishes) for dipping.

Maison Libanaise is all about celebration, food and fun, and as home to three layers of indoor and outdoor drinking and dining salons, the merry hubbub will only intensify.

Maison Libanaise, 10 Shelley Street, SoHo, Central. Tel: 2111 2284. maisonlibanaise.com.hk

Photos: Maison Libanaise Video: Jack Fontanilla

Dame and Fame: Classicism meets contemporary excellence at the timeless culinary haven of Gaddi’s in the Peninsula

As it marks 70 glorious years, Gaddi’s in The Peninsula Hong Kong stands as a testament to time and elegance. The peerless dining room of the ‘Grande Dame of the Far East’ has long been revered as a culinary gem. With a rich heritage spanning seven decades, it continues to captivate diners with its impeccable service and outstanding French cuisine.

The Peninsula opened its lavish restaurant in 1953, and it was named for General Manager Leo Gaddi, who had started the hotel’s new era of flawless service and attention to detail.

It quickly gained recognition as one of the top continental dining venues in the region, in addition to being the best restaurant in the city. Weeks in advance, its two dinner seatings a night were fully reserved, drawing foreign heads of state and celebrities.

“Gaddi’s sets itself apart from other restaurants through its unique combination of factors,” says Albin Gobil, Executive Sous Chef of The Peninsula Hong Kong. “Collectively, these elements – the first fine dining restaurant in the Far East to offer European cuisine, the city’s oldest dining establishment and exceptional service – contribute to Gaddi’s positioning as a highly sought-after Michelin-starred French fine dining restaurant in Hong Kong.”

*Kaviari Daurikus caviar with Tsar Nikolai balik salmon and potato blinis*

Stepping into the restaurant is like taking a stroll back in time. The interior exudes a classic charm, characterised by two suspended, retro crystal chandeliers, plush velvet upholstery and carpet and ornate woodwork. The soft lighting adds a touch of romance, creating an intimate atmosphere. The live music, featuring a talented pianist, further enhances the ambience, transporting guests to an era of sophistication and refinement.

The rest of the space is equally as pleasing to the eye. Large windows look out into the city streets and Victoria Harbour, the high ceilings offer grandeur and the walls replicate an Italian faux finish. Modern light fixtures rest against the walls and cast a bewitching glow, spotlighting the wall covering’s idiosyncrasies.

Just as the interior aims to seduce the old and new guards, the menu too succeeds in pleasing both. Gaddi’s has reached even greater heights recently, earning a Michelin star for the last four years in a row. Bringing the level of energy and enthusiasm expected from a fine seasoned restaurant, it ticks all of today’s essential boxes for a satisfying dining experience: fine food, cool and lavish interiors, consummate cocktails, an accessible wine list and agreeable service.

Bresse Chicken Parfait, White Piedmont Truffle, Crayfish, Nantua Sauce

Under the direction of Executive Sous Chef Albin Gobil, the restaurant’s elite culinary team created a stunning seven-course menu for a 70th-anniversary gala dinner that paid delectable homage to the establishment’s past through archive research and contemporary techniques.

The gastronomic parade moved from Kaviari Daurikus caviar with Tsar Nikolai balik salmon and potato blinis and Double-boiled Aubrac oxtail consommé in the crust with bone marrow and black Périgord truffle to Bresse chicken parfait with white Piedmont truffle, crayfish and Nantua sauce, before fish and meat mains of Dover sole filet à la Dieppoise with Bouchot mussels, prawns and celeriac and Rhug Estate roe deer saddle with caramelised shallots, soufflé potatoes and Bordelaise sauce. Mandarin raviolo with Champagne emulsion, and Apple tarte tatin with Avallen calvados and Tahitian vanilla crème fraiche sealed a sweet finale. Gobil’s masterpieces were showcased in both vintage and newly designed collections of tableware and glassware by Bernardaud.

*Apple tarte tatin with Avallen calvados and Tahitian vanilla crème fraiche*

In honour of Gaddi’s opening year, the exceptional dinner was combined with the best French wines and Champagnes, including a 1953 Domaine Remoissenet Père & Fils Vosne-Romanée. The wine list is extensive but not intimidating and takes diners around all the key wine-producing regions of France.

The restaurant’s elegant ambience, coupled with a menu of exquisite French cuisine, creates an unforgettable dining experience. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or seeking a refined evening of gastronomy, Gaddi’s is a destination that promises to transport you to a world of refined indulgence.

Gaddi’s, 1/F, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, The Peninsula Hong Kong.

Tel: +852 2696 6763, gaddis@peninsula.com

Ones to Remember: Award-Winning Interiors and Divine Dishes Ensure a Blissful Evening at 1111 Ones

Upscale Italian and French food becomes the food of the angels at 1111 Ones, the Central restaurant that checks off all the requirements for a pleasurable modern European dining experience – superb cuisine, chic and opulent interiors, top-notch beverages and more – then daringly elevates them to a higher plane.

Named for an angel number that celebrates new beginnings in life’s journey, 1111 Ones draws on the vision and direction of Chef Chris Chan, a culinary specialist with more than two decades of expertise and a prestigious background at a two-Michelin-starred restaurant. The unhurried interiors are reminiscent of the much-photographed Antelope Canyon in Arizona. Undulating waves of the high vaulted ceiling and warm, rusty colour tones are further highlighted by a wooden floor, straightforward wooden chairs and tables and accents of grey rock formations.

A bar with a marble countertop grounds the area, and its line-up of Italian liqueurs waiting to be served is another of the many unique touches in this dining room. All of these elements made the restaurant an overall winner of the 2022 International Restaurant & Bar Design Awards.

“It is said that those who continuously see this angel-number sequence will have great things coming their way. We are dedicated to providing a tranquil environment with divine food, where guests can forget about their life qualms and truly feel at peace,” proclaims Chef Chan.

Just as the interior features aim to seduce the old and new guard, the menu also succeeds in pleasing both. A fresh ingredients plate presenting the key elements of the tasting menu is provided before diners start their culinary trip so the mind can be primed for the gastronomic offerings ahead.

Chan personally selected the French Oscietra caviar for the first course. The second appetiser sees toro – the fatty underbelly of Japanese bluefin tuna – uniting with Hokkaido sea urchin and the fresh tomato consommé jelly.

The next dish features monkfish liver, cooked using the same technique as foie gras to achieve a similar texture and flavour. Morel is another luxurious creation, with the prized scented French mushrooms prepared in a method borrowed from Asian-style kitchens. It is stuffed with cuttlefish paste and served with squid on the side.

Amadai urokoyaki – tilefish grilled with its scales intact – is a standout among the main courses. The flavour of the fish is enhanced by the crispy scales and further highlighted by the accompanying onion chutney. African yellow croaker fish maw is another prominent dish, presented on top of a French-style lobster soup and rice crispies, giving the combination of tastes a distinctive twist.

The meat main of Hida beef – a supreme wagyu from Japan’s Gifu prefecture – is served with fresh parsnip and asparagus as well as a purée of pumpkin and black garlic. Alternatively, the Spanish deep-sea red treasure of carabinero is grilled on binchotan (Japanese white charcoal), presented with tom yum- infused puntine and augmented by roasted straw mushrooms, dried lime slices and Thai basil emulsion.

Desserts, of course, are not to be missed. The beetroot sweet is served with Granny Smith apple chunks and jam and topped by a French-style baked meringue. The second dessert melds chestnut and chrysanthemum – rich chestnut paste wrapped around vanilla mousse and served with smooth and sweet chrysanthemum ice cream and tangy dried fruit.

The chef will offer guests a yuzu sake jelly that resembles a Daruma doll at the conclusion of the meal, in a nod to the angel number.

While those of us who venture here for a rare night of dizzying culinary bliss will return back to earth to our go-to comfort food, whenever we sit down to a European meal, we will be reminded of 1111 Ones and all we have been missing.

1111 Ones Restaurant & Lounge, 11/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2910 1128, 1111ones.com

Text: Joseff Musa Photos: 1111 Ones Video: Jack Fontanilla

Rice Rhapsody: In a city where rice is life, Sushi Haru’s Chef Hirokuni Shiga orchestrates a masterful omakase

As Asians, we tend to gravitate to a bowl of piping hot rice to satisfy our hunger at any time of the day. But there’s the undeniable draw of something more, for which sushi, Japan’s heart of culinary offerings, sparks an entirely new love affair. The presence of countless establishments paying homage to the intricacies and revelations of Japan’s heart of culinary offerings underscores the Hong Kong craving for raw fish atop vinegared rice.

Taking over the hinoki wood dining counter of just exactly eight seats, Chef Hirokuni Shiga is flexing his faultless sense of taste at the intimate setting of Sushi Haru, at the top of Wyndham Street in Central. This humble master of Edomae sushi began his career at his family’s kappo-style restaurant and it wasn’t until he was in his early 20s that, at the invitation of his father’s friend, he had his first encounter with omakase sushi. He began an apprenticeship, and from then on, his imaginative culinary creations have captivated diners.

”What I think makes us stand out is that I am able to incorporate everything I have learned in kappo and kaiseki dining into the dishes I serve,” says Shiga, who doesn’t shy from sharing his own story from behind the counter. “For example, depending on the piece of fish I am serving, I use different types of rice and details like this help to shape the guest’s experience.”

Both Hong Kong and Japan are known for wearing their history as a badge of honour. Although it may seem that tradition and modernity are forever in flux, Sushi Haru manages to pay homage to the past while expressing a contemporary vibe. The Zen aesthetic is further enhanced by a display of minimal-themed, charcoal- based framed drawings and a grey and brown colour combination – the only two hues evident throughout the restaurant.

But of course, there’s the sushi, the main star of the show, as well as the chef showing off his knife skills while finely slicing a selection of seafood. His kitchen balances flavour and subtlety without coming off at all gimmicky and then splashes of vivid, varied colour are served dish after dish. Think akami (lean red tuna), shiromi (white fish), nimono (simmered fish), kai (shellfish), ika (squid), tako (octopus), ebi (shrimp), kani (crab) and gyoran (fish roe).

But of all these sensational toppings, it’s the hikarimono (silver-skinned fish) that Shiga names as his personal favourite. “I am most proud of our kohada [gizzard shad] and kasugo [young sea bream] because, although they are the most labour- intensive, the hard work can be tasted in the result,” he says. “Oftentimes, in the world of sushi, a true test of a sushi chef is in how they prepare kohada.”

There’s also good news for newcomers to East Asia who have yet to master chopsticks. “You can eat with your fingers or you can use chopsticks,” he adds, smiling. The dexterous chef also beguiles his audience with his step-by-step method of assembling a perfectly shaped sushi, which involves gently pressing the fish onto the rice.

In between exquisite bites, sake and beer add a smooth, subtle sweetness to the night’s bouquet of flavours. Shiga, who is often caught raising a glass or two with his audience, also brings a citrusy kick via a fruit-infused sake to the table.

“Sushi, if you are to just look at it, is not too complicated, but the amount of care that is put into it should always be reflected on the faces of your guests,” he emphasises. “That is when you know you have succeeded.”

The looks of joyous satisfaction around the table as our omakase feast concludes is a testament to both Sushi Haru and Chef Hirokuni Shiga’s triumph. Rice will always be appealing anywhere on this side of the world, but Sushi Haru truly goes far beyond satisfying a craving.

Sushi Haru, Mezzanine, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: 2111 1450

Photos: Jack Fontanilla / Sushi Haru Video: Jack Fontanilla

Bleu De France: Belon shifts the epicentre of Hong Kong’s French food a little closer to the 10th arrondissement

There are grand French fine dining rooms, and then there is Belon. The path it has travelled has taken many detours. When the restaurant opened, its goal was to be a French bistro, not a Michelin starred establishment, however, it quickly developed a following.

Cut to 2020, Chef de Cuisine Jacob Zuidervliet and the rest of the gastronomic geniuses behind Belon’s highly praised reputation extended the rustic luxe interior design, the ingredient provenance, and the preparation-focused dishes that have graced the pages of many publications and social media to a dining destination accessed via Elgin Street in SoHo.

Given the hip neighbourhood locale, Belon still exudes a surprisingly exuberating fine-dining aesthetic with plaster artwork revealing a history of the fleur-de-lis motif. At the same time, it pegs itself as a homey, unhurried restaurant with an easygoing vibe – courtesy of the ’90s and early noughties hip-hop music in the background – that hides the greater ambitions of the chefs.

“I like to think that we are introducing guests to something they would expect in the grand restaurants of France, both in terms of culinary execution and service in our intimate SoHo dining room,” says Chef Jacob, “We are focused on building a restaurant experience where there is no sleight of hand or showmanship; it is about providing solid, friendly service and food that is prepared with excellence and presented in a way that is sincere to its origin.”

*Dungeness Crab with White Asparagus and Caviar*

With month-on-month menu updates, the cascading a la carte supports this endless dedication, smoothly flowing from apéro or predinner, to a tasting menu and latenight drinks while featuring distinctive and modern French staples.

The team stretches the limits of a tiny kitchen, working the wood-fired oven over time. Precision is the driving force to their efficiency and everything must be timed so that the heat levels can quickly adjust.

A case in point is Cervelas en Brioche, smooth pork sausage cooked inside brioche dough, the chef’s personal favourite from his vast list of creations. The commitment to quality, though, starts long before anything is fired up. “It is a deceptively simple dish when it is served, but the amount of time, practice and technique that goes into preparing it is staggering. It is an excellent representation of our style of food, simple-looking but complex in flavour and technique.”

Though French, Belon brings inventive Asian touches to a playful menu. On our visit, we begin with the unabashedly French starters of Smoked Saba (mackerel) with Shishito Pepper and Yellow Courgette; Dungeness Crab with White Asparagus and Caviar; and Canadian Spot Prawn with Ravioli and Champagne Sauce.

A medley of mains comes right after: the bistro inspired Kinmedai with Cassoulet and Lardo di Colonnata; Hokkaido Scallop with Morel Farci and Sauce Hollandaise; and Quercy Lamb Saddle with Walnut and Swiss Chard.

These are the temptations that will make first-timers and regulars return for more. However, the true highlights of Belon’s taste test come in the form of Whole Roasted Chicken with Petits Pois à la Française; and Miyazaki Wagyu Striploin with Pomme Aumônière and Sauce Barigoule.

*Miyazaki Wagyu Striploin with Pomme Aumônière and Sauce Barigoule*

We close with an assortment of decadent desserts such as Gâteau Basque with Sherry and Foie Gras; Rhum Baba with Mango; Honey and Passion Fruit Millefeuille; and Black Truffle Gâteau Marjolaine. A portfolio of wines and other tipples complete the culinary escapade.

A faultless dinner recommendation, Belon is infused with a deep indigo hue and understated floral arrangements, while hints of underwater geometries of fish scales, coral and sponges recall found pieces from an abandoned shipwreck that serve as inspiration for its name and the dishes. More than good food and beyond a gateway to French cuisine, this restaurant proves that it is possible to give the level of attention palates deserve.

Belon, 1/F, 1-5 Elgin Street, SoHo, Central, Hong Kong. Tel: +852 2152 2872

Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Belon Video: Jack Fontanilla