Pasta Master – A Lux’s Chef Chung

Chef Wai Chung Kwan has just one clear objective in mind for A Lux, his upscale Italian / French restaurant, which nestles behind distinctive steel and glass doors just by the grand English-pillared staircase on Duddell Street in the heart of Central.

In essence, regardless of whether they are enjoying a quick lunch or a more leisurely dinner, he wants to transform the way his ever-growing number of famously loyal patrons engage with Italian and French cuisine. Expanding on this, he says: “My mission is to bring a truly authentic pasta experience to Hong Kong”.

A man of his word, the menu he offers within the 60-seat restaurant majors on pasta dishes, all served on distinctive wide and shallow ceramic platters. Adding to the ambiance is a series of thoughtfully chosen oil on canvas artworks, all help to bring a modish Mediterranean feel to the restaurant’s distinctly downtown Hong Kong setting.

And then there is its interior. All swathed in green and blush pink velvet, gilded gold-plated metals and light and seamless wood parquet. While the windows are bare, they are fetchingly accented with lamp posts and an etched water fountain. The lighting overall meanwhile, remains artfully subdued, bestowing glamour and a sense of having suddenly been relocated to somewhere rather special. Sharing the intent behind this, Chef Chung says: “When anyone enters, I want them to feel they have left Hong Kong far behind them”.

In terms of the food itself, to woo his patrons into trying something new, Chung has personally crafted a tasting menu of “secret” handmade pasta. Available as a tempting alternative to the restaurant’s more conventional set lunch and dinner menus, this mystery pasta changes from day to day.

This begins with Gnocchi, asparagus, Parma ham and a cheese salad. The Gnocchi proves the perfect foil for its vegetable, meat and dairy companions, with the salty notes and slight oily aroma of the ham bestowing a pleasantly lingering aftertaste. This was then followed with Tortellini and ham broth. Here, just the smallest bite into the Tortellini is enough to release its rich filling, which delivers an eminently satisfying cavalcade of competing flavours.

With his keen mastery of how to perfectly blend ingredients, textures and tastes, even the chef’s pasta – a foodstuff often merely deployed to provide bulk – is truly remarkable, perfectly chewy and never relegated to a supporting role in any dish. Indeed, once you’ve been spoilt by Chef Chung’s handmade pasta, you may never again settle for shop-bought.

It was then on to the mains, with much anticipated Chitarra, carabineros prawn, tomato and basil opening the proceedings. A distinctly square-surfaced take on pasta, Chitarra also
boasts a complex flavour and an enchanting synergy with the accompanying sauce. Chef Chung confesses the chittara owes much of its chewiness to his discrete addition of just the right amount of durum wheat flour.

Next to the table is Pappardelle, mushroom ragout and truffle cream. The freshly made pappardelle boasts a rich egg flavour. This is soon followed by another standout-Fettuccine, wagyu beef cheek and shaved truffle.

Fettuccine, wagyu beef cheek and shaved truffle

Reassuringly flat and thick, the fettuccini has a passing resemblance to the tagliatelle favoured in northern Italy. Chef Chung is insistent that only the finest Australian A5 Wagyu beef cheek can truly embody his individual take on this alluring culinary creation. Its inclusion, together with the rich gravy and the premium handmade fettuccine, make for a heady combination, one that forms a rare treat for the palate. And that’s before you even begin to engage with the fresh black diamond truffle slices that both garnish and crown this singular yet multi-sensory indulgence.

If you hanker for fine Italian and French cuisine, seamlessly segueing between the experimental and the traditional, then A Lux has to make your must eat list, factoring in the attentive craftsmanship of Chef Chung, the superb service and the immensely relaxing and welcoming vibe.

A Lux, Level M2, 13 Baskerville House, Duddell Street, Central.

+852 2663 9938

(Text: Joseff Musa Photos: A – Lux)

Steaks don’t come any finer than Buenos Aires Polo Club

You are never too far away from a decent steak restaurant in Hong Kong. There is, however, only one such establishment that offers a guaranteed respite from the city life, complete with modishly dimmed vintage chandeliers and a superabundance of gold-framed equestrian artworks – The Buenos Aires Polo Club. Where else?

With it s exclusive polo club ambiance enhanced by its strategic scarcity of external windows, the restaurant’s singular passion for grilling is aromatically announced as soon as you cross its threshold, with its sizzling dishes ubiquitously prepared in the kitchen facilities cannily set right by the entranceway. Asked just why its cuisine is quite so appealing, Head Chef Patrick Shimada says “What makes our steaks and dishes unique is our commitment to preparing the old school way – over open fire.”

As an apt testament to this, within the restaurant’s all-curved wood and genuine leather swathed interior, an extensive Argentinian-inspired menu is served over no-fuss white and silver ceramics, skillets and wooden board, with Scallop Ceviche, Chimichurris and Spinach and Provolone Empanadas comprising the opening salvo. Seated in the green room, with new-age jazz tinkling in the background, elegant threepiece- suited serving hosts pair every plate with a glass of club martini.

With culinary and cultural concerns both taking centre stage, Chef Shimada prides himself on crafting a truly contemporary oasis, one where tradition and gastronomic greatness seamlessly blend to create the eatery’s General Pico Black Angus, deliciously grilled traditional Asado (barbecue) style. Tender and lean with a pleasing minerally aftertaste, this is a carnivore heaven.

From left: Truffle Fries Provenzal, General Pico Black Angus, Creamed Spinach, Grilled Bone Marrow

Meanwhile, the following Tenderloin El Camino is simply in a league of its own. Wrapped in cheesecloth and infused with herbs and rock salt before being subjected to roasting coals, it is carved immediately in front of the dining table.

Sometimes just one word won’t suffice to sum up something particularly sumptuous and that’s a maxim that certainly applies to the restaurant’s wide range of Chef Selected Cuts, with such classic main stays as Polo Club Tomahawk, Gold Tenderloin and Bone-in Ribeye El Dorado, all available and all imported from the United States, with the kind of rich marbling only corn-fed cattle can produce. As if that wasn’t indulgent enough, the Truffle Fries Provenzal, cooked in duck fat, takes things to a whole new level of delicious.

From left: Wedge Salad, Truffle Fries Provenzal, Polo Club Tomahawk, Creamed Spinach

The sheer flaming majesty of the menu items on offer isn’t however, solely restricted to the main course. Indeed, it’s just about possible that the best has been saved for the last, in the form of the dessert serving of the truly marvellous, mouthwatering Malvaviscos. Essentially marshmallows stuffed with dulce de leche ice cream and roasted by the dining table over an open flame, they couldn’t come more highly recommended and could almost give the impression that you’ve been transported to some bonfire-lit feast back on the Argentinian pampas. It’s a comparison Chef Shimada is keen to nurture given that his own passion for grilling dates back to his childhood years, with fond memories of himself and his father cooking over an open fire.

All in all, the Buenos Aires Polo Club, as handsome a steakhouse as you are likely to find in downtown Hong Kong, undeniably pays due homage to Argentina’s vibrant grilling culture and the love of the Sport of Kings, while also being the ideal spot to sate your curiosity as to just what constituted an early 1900’s members-only dining establishment. With a menu that is unashamedly focused on unabashed freshness and showcasing the finest traditional Argentinian cuisine, it’s everything you could hope for from a steak house. And so much more.

Buenos Aires Polo Club. 7/F, 33 Wyndham Street, Central

+852 2321 8681 www.bapoloclub.com

Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Buenos Aires Polo Club

Auor, offering unfiltered chef Edward Voon Experience

For some, preparing food is a simple necessity, a daily obligation to be joylessly observed. For others, it is far more of a journey, with curating fine cuisine and creating fantastic fusion fare, an ongoing learning experience and an essential part of a lifelong love affair. There is no doubt that Singapore-born chef Edward Voon falls very much into the latter category.

Arguably, the very apotheosis of his avowed ambition to sate appetites in his own inimitable style is Auor (pronounced ‘hour’), his new international fine dining establishment. For Voon, who more than distinguished himself as the culinary tour-de-force behind Le Pan, his latest venture is all about delivering a fine fusion of the very best Asian dishes with all the exquisite nuances of French haute cuisine.

Offering two menus, The Six Rounds (HK$1,680) and Menu Dégustation (HK$1,980), a six- and eight-plate fare of innovative dishes, each pays homage to a particular Asian cuisine style highlighting flavours from Thailand, India, Malaysia and, especially, Singapore, Voon’s home country. Outlining his mission/menu, he says: “Auor’s flavour profile is unique to me and close to my heart. It’s based on my travels, my taste and my experience of trying to understand people and discover cultures. It is a testament to my journey to date.”

Awakening the palette with a sensual, fresh and vibrant overture, The Six Rounds experience commences with smoky Petuna Ocean Trout, encased in sushi vinegar jelly and pickled green chili while generously topped with a serving of Oscietra caviar. This proves an invigorating mix of fulsome flavours, perfectly preparing the palate for the rich and savoury notes of the dishes set to soon follow.

The first of these is a moderately magnificent mollusc, the undoubted hero of the eminently edible Ezo Abalone, a classically understated cold noodle dish. Served ‘drunken’ atop a bed of cold ‘Xiang Zao Lu’ somen (thin wheat flour noodles in Chinese rice wine), it’s a flavour combination that packs a perhaps unexpectedly hefty punch. This is largely down to its sensationally savory broth, which artfully combines fragrant shiso leaves with the finest quality bonito flakes. Clearly prepared days in advance, it’s a flavour combination that owes much to its leisurely infusion.

Equally impressive is the Tandoori Crab Au Gratin, one of the undoubted highlights of the eight-plate menu. Although all but aglow with rich and fragrant Indian spices, this is ably balanced by the Comté cheese gratin and a sumptuous sprinkling of crispy bites of crumbled tandoor-baked chicken skin. A simply sensational fusion of fine east-meets-west cuisine, it is a dish that effortlessly orchestrates the rich mineral notes of Pacific crab meat, lobster stock, fragrant spices and creamy cheese.

The delectably tender Australian Kiwami Wagyu, meanwhile, also proved a truly satisfying melt-in-your-mouth serving, as well as the one most likely to delight the more meat-minded diner. A reimagining of Singaporean Black Pepper Crab, the intriguing incorporation of the peppery roughness and fruity aroma of Sarawak black pepper glaze, a Singaporean staple, made this very much a love letter to Chef Voon’s homeland. The red wine sauce – poured tableside – unites the complex tantalising flavours of the beef and the sweet tamarind black pepper glaze, melding them gorgeously with the puree, to complete the dish’s final flourish.

Expanding upon his unique philosophy, Voon says: “I want my customers to walk out of this restaurant knowing that the food was cooked by Edward from his heart – I think that is very important. I want them to feel that every dish that comes out, comes from my inner soul to the table. It’s like heart-to-table rather than farm-to table.”

Auor. 4/F, no. 88 Gloucester Road, Wan Chai
(852) 2866 4888 auor.com.hk

(Text: Roberliza Eugenio Photos: Auor)

Grand Majestic Sichuan adds a fine-dining sensibility to Sichuan cuisine

Contrary to what most people would believe, Sichuan cuisine is not all about mouth-numbing spice – although it is famous for it. In fact, the majority of Sichuan dishes sit on a spectrum of spicy, sweet, sour, savoury, smoky and aromatic. And at Grand Majestic Sichuan, Head Chef Robert Wong delivers, alongside Sichuan cuisine-expert Fuchsia Dunlop, the dynamic combination of flavours native to his hometown Chengdu perfectly.

dining-taste-grandmajesticsichuan-blacksheeprestaurants-sichuan-cuisine-gucci-bar — Dining room and bar area with Gucci wallpaper at the back

Not merely a Sichuan restaurant, it goes above and beyond expectations with plentiful attention to detail, from the food to the service and even the ambience. Striking red velvet upholstery, lush carpets, lavish interiors dressed in marble, silk and Gucci wallpaper, and a spacious terrace with a view of Central’s high rises, Grand Majestic Sichuan transports diners to Hong Kong of the ’60s, an era of luxurious nightclubs.

Even a trip to the washroom is made memorable with the unique experience of pouring a flute of Champagne and spraying on Chanel No.5. “We like to say that we offer good Sichuan cuisine with European service,” notes Wong.

dining-taste-grandmajesticsichuan-blacksheeprestaurants-sichuan-cuisine-jerkyy — From left: Bang Bang Ji, Liang Ban Wo Sun Si, and Deng Ying Niu Rou (Celtuce strips, shredded three-yellow chicken and wafer-thin beef

After an impressive tour of the restaurant – a precursor of its eclectic delights–we sit down to sample a selection of signatures, beginning with three cold dishes. Deng Ying Niu Rou is wafer-thin beef tossed with chilli oil and sesame seeds. Its delicate, crispy texture results from the finely sliced beef being dehydrated, steamed, then fried – an interesting twist to the chewier Bak Kwa jerky many people are familiar with.

dining-taste-grandmajesticsichuan-blacksheeprestaurants-sichuan-cuisine-starters — From left: Bang Bang Ji, Liang Ban Wo Sun Si, and Deng Ying Niu Rou (Celtuce strips, shredded three-yellow chicken and wafer-thin beef

Next is the classic cold offering of Bang Bang Ji – poached and shredded “three-yellow” chicken tossed in spicy peppercorn oil and doused with mildly sweet, nutty sesame sauce. The tender meat of the distinctive local bird, beloved for the fatty layer under its skin, yields rich bursts of flavour that balance savouriness, subtle sweetness, as well as mouth-tingling sensations.

dining-taste-grandmajesticsichuan-blacksheeprestaurants-sichuan-cuisine-celtuce strips — Celtuce Strips

Calming the palate after the heat of the opening dishes is Liang Ban Wo Sun Si, a plate of chilled celtuce strips lightly kissed by Sichuan peppercorn and chilli oil, then garnished with sesame seeds – it is nutty, aromatic and slightly tingly, but a refreshing change of pace from the richer profiles of the beef and chicken.

Wong’s knowledge and techniques shine through, in particular, in the mains. “We try to keep everything simple and classic, and we use the freshest and best ingredients so our dishes are healthier. For example, we use grapeseed oil, never lard, and no MSG. We prepare our own broths and preserve and marinate our own ingredients,” says the chef.“It’s been much tougher to get ingredients from Sichuan during the pandemic, so the way I see it is, if we can’t get it we’ll make it ourselves.

dining-taste-grandmajesticsichuan-blacksheeprestaurants-sichuan-cuisine-firecracker chicken (2) — Chongqing La Zi Ji (Firecracker chicken)

Their “firecracker chicken”, Chongqing La Zi Ji, uses the local yellow chicken and a generous serving of “facing heaven” chillies. The chicken is served boneless yet its tender, juicy meat bursts in a complexity of salty, spicy and fragrant flavours. This subtle detail speaks volumes of the skill and technicalities that sets the restaurant apart from other Sichuan diners.

dining-taste-grandmajesticsichuan-blacksheeprestaurants-sichuan-cuisine-suan-cai-yu-fish — Suan Cai Yu (Fish stew with preserved vegetables)

However, it is Suan Cai Yu, a popular Sichuan fish stew, that surprised us the most. Absent of spicy and numbing essences, but rather bursting in mouth-watering and aromatic fragance, this sour soup delights with the slightest hint of sweetness is accompanied by a succulent, fatty fish. Traditionally, the recipe calls for golden pomfret, but instead Grand Majestic Sichuan uses line-caught grouper, caught locally by a fisherman who works closely with the restaurant, and the innovation improves texture, aroma and flavour. It comes with mustard greens that have been pickled in-house in a special marinade.

dining-taste-grandmajesticsichuan-blacksheeprestaurants-sichuan-cuisine-mapotofu — Ma Po Dou Fu (Mapo Tofu)

Saving the finest for last, Ma Po Dou Fu, may be the highlight of the meal. Bursting with a full body of flavour despite a more restrained use of peppercorn oil, the sauce’s rich umami hails from grass-fed beef chopped by hand and oil rendered from Ibérico ham. Simplistic in its nature, but robust with a unique savoury kick, this rendition of the popular tofu dish has been billed by some as “the best in town”, and with that, we concur.

Grand Majestic Sichuan. 3/F, Shop 301, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central. (852) 2151 1299. grandmajesticsichuan.com

Text & Photos: Roberliza Eugenio

Traditional Italian recipes combine deliciously with modern techniques in Cantina

In Hong Kong, gourmands will never find themselves short of new flavours, new hotspots and even new mixes of cultures. The list of Italian restaurants alone is long enough to stretch the length of Hollywood Road and beyond. Still, we find ourselves going back to the warm, hearty cuisine of Italy – always determined to find the best pastas, the tastiest pizzas and the most mouth-watering gelato and tiramisu.

gafencu-dining-taste-italian-traditional-modern-sicilian-tai-kwun-hongkong — Photo courtesy of Aqua Restaurant Group

Over at Tai Kwun, the former Central Police Headquarters, the site serves as no better a place to bring traditional and modern together. This is exactly what Aqua Group has done with Cantina, a new addition to its stable of restaurants. Cantina, which translates to canteen, is perfectly situated within the location’s former dining hall.

gafencu-dining-taste-italian-traditional-modern-sicilian-tai-kwun-hongkong-Luca Schiavone — Photo courtesy of Aqua Restaurant Group

Here, classic Italian dishes are served with the occasional surprising twist – “wow-factor” is what Luca Schiavone, Cantina’s executive chef calls it. Having only landed in Hong Kong in February, Chef Luca brings the flavours of his native Sicily to this warm, casual eatery. “We try to stay traditional but we also play with consistency and presentation. The goal is to have an explosion of flavours with every bite”, says Chef Luca.

One example is the Sicilian Red Prawn Carpaccio. The dish features sweet Southern red prawns, complemented by fruity pomegranate jelly and further elevated with dollops of sumptuous caviar and Italy’s finest Bronte pistachios from Mount Etna, before finishing with lemon zest. Light but savoury with a hint of sweetness, this was just enough to rouse us for the next dish.

Impressively, the majority of pastas on the menu are homemade to respect the Italian culture of cooking al dente. However, the Linguine with Clams & Mullet Bortarga we had sampled was cooked with a dry pasta sourced from Italy, which to our surprise still offered a perfectly chewy and firm texture. Its starchier content (compared to freshly made pasta) gives the dish a creamier texture that perfectly complements the simplicity of its white wine, chili, garlic and butter sauce. The driving force of its rich flavours though was the clam juice which was filtered out and mixed into the sauce – rounding up the dish with a savoury punch of umami.

The pièce de résistance of our experience was the theatrical table-side service that came with the Breaded Veal Cutlet and Salt Baked Sea Bass with Vegetable Caponata. The scrumptious deep-fried Milanese veal cutlet hovered over on a charcuterie board and was cut table-side – crisply crunching with every slice. Cooked in clarified butter and garnished with fried rosemary, the dish was then drizzled with a squeeze of lemon juice for piquancy, oozing with a combination of sweet and nutty flavours.

The fish was a showstopper. Arriving within a thick layer of salted pastry that was set ablaze, then skillfully doused and cracked open to reveal the sea bass that was expertly deboned and delicately plated. It was served alongside a sweet and sour caponata, a traditionally Sicilian vegetable appetiser. The plate’s mix of eggplants, olives, onions and sweet red pepper seasoned with herbs, olive oil and sweet and sour dressing (agrodolce sauce) perfectly balanced the freshness of the sea bass with fruity and tangy notes.

No Italian fare is complete without a sweet ending. In this case, it was the Table Side Tiramisu. Literally meaning pick-me-up in Italian, tiramisu was the perfect finale to a satisfyingly carnivorous meal. When it comes to beloved classic recipes that have travelled beyond its borders and endured centuries of reinvention, some dishes are best kept as its original form, delighting the palate with a sense of home and momma in the kitchen. Thankfully this classic tiramisu was just that.

Moist with coffee, its savoiardi (ladyfingers) is delicate and fully absorbed with the creamy mixture of eggs, sugar, and mascarpone cheese before being dusted with cocoa powder. Perhaps the only blip in the sensational experience was that after a couple of bites, it was a tad too sweet to finish off; but given the calories we had happily consumed by that point, it might have been for the best.

Cantina. 1/F, Block 1, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Rd., Central. aquarestaurantgroup.co.uk/cantina

(Text & Photos: Roberliza Eugenio)

Six most expensive local delicacies in Hong Kong

There’s no shortage of fine dining options in Hong Kong. But there’s also a brisk trade in exorbitantly priced delicacies – morsels that carry status by virtue of their scarcity and cost, or boast an impressive list of health benefits. Some of the most prized – and occasionally the downright weird – are put under the griller here.

Cocaine of the Sea

To find high-end fish maw, one need look no further than the many dried seafood outlets on the streets of Hong Kong’s Sheung Wan district. Fish maw is actually the swim bladder, a gas-filled organ located near the gills of fish – providing the buoyancy they need to maintain their depth in water. In truth, you can get a tasty serve of fish maw with a plate of Chinese vegetables and a bowl of steamed rice for under HK$100 at any number of cha chaan tengs dotted around the city – but for fish maw at the very top of the price spectrum, the cost is a good deal higher.

The most expensive fish maw is found in the Gulf of Mexico and is sourced from totoaba – a type of drum fish. Totoaba bladder is, in fact, so valuable it has been nicknamed the ‘cocaine of the sea’. It can reportedly fetch as much as US$129,000 (HK$1.01 million) per kg on the black market. There are, however, a couple of catches. The first is that international trade in totoaba maw is banned. The second is that totoaba is becoming increasingly rare due to overfishing, with grave concerns that it is being hunted to extinction. Fortunately there are plenty of more readily available sources of fish maw on the market if that’s your fancy.

Himalayan Viagra

Caterpillar fungus (a species of Cordyceps), is another in-demand delicacy with an extravagant price tag. It is prized for its aphrodisiac properties – which is why it is commonly referred to as Himalayan Viagra.

The life cycle by which the caterpillar fungus comes into is like something out of a B-grade horror movie, along the lines of The Invasion of the Body Snatchers. Caterpillar fungus is found on the Tibetan Plateau. It is here that it invades the bodies of caterpillars of the Thitarodes moth. The caterpillars are born underground, ingest a kind of fungus, which infects takes over the host’s tissue. These unfortunate caterpillars never metamorphosize. Their bodies are taken over by the caterpillar fungus, which then shoots out hardened plant roots.
In addition to its aphrodisiac properties, the caterpillar fungus is also believed to be a cure-all valued for its power to treat back and knee pains, reduce stress and coughing and even treat anemia by boosting haemaglobin levels – but it’s worth noting that these claims do not have a basis in science.

Especially popular as a Chinese medicine, caterpillar fungus sells for as high as 880,000 RMB (HK$1.03 million) per kg and is usually served up double-boiled in soup for maximum impact. Given the price, you would certainly want to get maximum bang for your buck.

For the Birds

Another very popular dish commonly served up on special occasions in Hong Kong is bird’s nest soup. The key ingredient here is actually the saliva of the a particular species of bird – the swift – which uses its saliva to bind its nest together and is prized for its all-round medicinal benefits, especially to the skin, the lungs and the digestive system. The substance extracted from the abandoned nests are highly expensive due to their rarity and difficulty of retrieval – as the swift nests high up on cliff faces and caves in Malaysia and Indonesia.

Consuming the saliva of another creature may turn off some diners but at least no birds were killed in the process, though the extraction process can be dangerous with those hired to collect the bird’s nest from their precarious resting places. Prices for the precious substance generally starts at around HK$175,000 per kg. As the name suggests, it is usually double-boiled in a soup of gelatinous strands.

Mushroom Madness

Mushrooms are a central part of much of traditional Chinese cooking – and are usually affordably prices and easily purchased in any number of wet markets around Hong Kong. But there are exceptions to this rule. With some mushrooms only available to those ready to part with a fair wad of cash.

The priciest of these exotic fungal delicacies is the Hericium Erinaceus. Also called lion’s mane and/or monkey’s head mushroom due to its characteristics shape, this rare and delicate fungus grows wild in the northeast Chinese province of Heilongjiang. It typically prospers in the trunk or hollow of a hardwood tree in the deep recesses of a forest. The fresh mushroom is more costly than the dried version and weights in at around 350 RMB per 500g, although it’s usually sold in half kilo lots. It is praised for boosting blood circulation and reducing cholesterol.
More expensive still is the matsutake mushroom. Commonly known as the ‘king of fungi’, this mushroom can only thrive in pristine forests free of human influence and grows wild in a number of provinces in northern China. It takes up to five years to grow to fruition and must be picked and consumed within 48 hours – making it a challenge to get it from forest to table.

The dried version is pricier than the fresh version and can fetch up to 2000 RMB per 500g. It usually steamed or served up in a soup but should be cooked at or below 90 degree Celsius to preserve its cancer-fighting properties.

Dried Abalone

Often gracing the tables of special occasion dining in Hong Kong and mainland China. these delicacies are often served up on special occasions. Abalone is a staple at multi-course meals in Chinese restaurants around Asia. Strict controls on the number of licences available push up the price of these tasty – if somewhat rubbery – gastropod mollusks. High in selenium, which is good to boost stamina, abalone can sell for up to HK$35,000 per kg.

Sea Cucumbers

Despite the name, sea cucumbers, are in fact marine animals. These slug-shaped seafloor dwellers were once popular at banquets in China but have fallen somewhat out of fashion in recent years. Although they can still fetch a price as high as 20,000 RMB per kg, driven up by how long these critters take to mature. It is believed that the recovery of post-operative patients can be speeded up eating braised sea cucumber in porridge.

Han Sweet Han: Hansik Goo celebrates its 2nd anniversary with a Michelin Star

What takes a food experience into the next realm, is the emotion it evokes and the stories it tells. A truly special dining experience can bring to mind the first bite of a fondly remembered dish, or the ambience of a simple, cosy dining room can recall family meals at home.

At Hansik Goo, the idea of sharing a meal and serving authentic Korean flavours are two pillars that bring together a holistic dining experience. So much so that it had earned its first Michelin star this year, making it the first Korean restaurant into the Michelin Guide Hong Kong & Macau. It is also head chef Steve Lee’s first Michelin star since taking over the helm from successor and founding chef Mingoo Kang two years ago. The third pillar to this fast-rising local favourite is a modern touch that completes the circle.

Despite being Korean, Hansik Goo is chef Lee’s first Korean culinary experience. “Korean cuisine is my home food – I have the background, the memory and the palate. These help me bring together authentic Korean flavours, while my experience in western cuisine allows me to add a modern twist to it”, says Lee. Celebrating its second anniversary, we tuck into the restaurant’s tempting seasonal Korean flavours and the signature dishes that have won over the hearts of their diners over the last two years.

Kicking off our tasting menu with a delicate start, the Fish Mandu arrived with an intriguing composition. Serving seasonal blackthroat seaperch stuffed with pork and a generous layer of pork floss in cho-ganjang sauce, each bite offered an interesting combination of sweet, tangy and rich umami – gently delivered by the tender fish meat, and finished with the sensational pork floss that dissolves in the mouth.

Next to the table was the Korean Fried Chicken, a popular add-on to the seasonal menu and the hero dish that carried the eatery through the Covid-19 pandemic’s dining restrictions. At first bite, we understand why. Simple and homey, yet perfectly juicy and tender with the right balance of batter and meat – a rarity in the city. The deep fried chicken was paired with sparsely battered eggplant and drizzled with yuza jang which gave the dish a refreshingly deep flavour that remained light and not overwhelming to the palate.

We then shifted attention to the signature Samgye Risotto 2.0. Welcoming the season of morel mushroom in its iconic chicken roulade, the dish was completed with slices of steamed South African abalone sumptuously brushed with house-made Korean prickly-ash butter and coriander, and a serving of Ginseng infused glutinous rice. Cheekily referred to as ‘the risotto’, the rich flavours of each component stands out but also comes together in a harmonious combination of flavours.

Following up with the last main dish, the Pork Duo is laid across the table complete with a brass bowl of Yukhweh Bibimbap and a series of house-fermented and house-made condiments that added depth in flavour to the overall dish. Showcasing two types of grilled pork: ganjang Iberico pork chop and gochujang marinated pork neck, and served alongside a refreshing Dallae (wild rocambol, or garlic leaves), the house-made sauces recalls childhood and family dinners around the grill. A tender memory elevated by the bibimbap that was served with an assortment of fresh vegetables and mouth-watering beef tartare.

The best was saved next to last, with the arrival of chef Mingoo’s sensational signature dessert, Jang Trio. A creative composition of sweet crystallised Doenjang crème brÛlée, an ultra-light and airy home-made vanilla ice cream, and ganjang glazed pecan and gochujang powder as garnish – a perfect marriage of textures and flavours.

For the finalé, we were treated to Dagwa, a delicious assortment of refreshments to end the meal – with a touch of finesse to elevate the array of sweets. A warm sip of Korean mulberry leaf tea perfectly complimented a plate of savoury black sesame dasik, sweet yakgwa and strawberry jeonggwa. We ended our charming dinner at Hansik Goo with the kind of contentment that brings back the comforting warmth of home.

Hansik Goo. 1/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central. (852) 2798 8768. hansikgoo.hk

(Text & Photos: Roberliza Eugenio)

Spoil Your Dad With These Mouth-Watering Father’s Day Menus

Father’s Day is just around the corner and what better way to celebrate than by treating your dad to a delicious meal. Whether he’s a steak lover or a seafood aficionado, Hong Kong’s restaurant scene offers plenty of culinary options to choose from. So, without further ado, let’s dive into the mouth-watering options that will make this Father’s Day one to remember.

A Lux

A Lux has taken its iconic Buon Fine Settimana weekend brunch and reimagined it for Father’s Day. The four-course menu includes unlimited Antipastos, one of these al dente pasta dishes – Parmesan Risotto with Lobster Ragout; Penne with Beef Cheek and Mushroom Cream; Abalone Spinosini with Garlic and Chilli (add HK$88); or Carabineros Prawn Spaghetti (add HK$108), and a main course from the following options: Roasted U.S. Ribeye with Gravy; Sea bass and Clams with Spinach and Butter Sauce; Japanese Chicken Saltimbocca; Grilled Australian M8 Wagyu Beef (add HK$368); or Beef Wellington. This decadent meal will be followed by the staff bringing a dessert trolley consisting of a plethora of sweet treats from which you can pick all your favourite ones. For HK$788, guests can enjoy Siberian Sturgeon Caviar, unlimited Roasted U.S. Ribeye and 90 minutes of free flow of non-alcoholic drinks in addition to the aforementioned four-course meal. Another variation of the brunch menu, which is priced at HK$888, comes with a free flow of top-notch champagnes and wines that dads will undoubtedly appreciate.

Where: Shop M2, M/F, Baskerville House, 13 Duddell Street, Central, Hong Kong
When: June 17 and 18 (12:00 PM to 3:00 PM)
How much: Starting at HK$588 per person.
For reservations: info@a-lux.hk, (852) 2663 9938 or click here.

Carver

Whether your dad loves a good steak or never misses choosing the seafood options at any restaurant he goes to, this special six-course Father’s Day menu called Family Degustation Menu at Carver will certainly be to his liking. This one-day brunch feast features a prime Australian Striploin steak, that is juicy and rich in flavours, served with beer fries and truffle gravy. Also on the menu are the Black Cod Fillet with salmon roe and Champagne butter sauce, Lobster Spaghetti; and Canadian Pork Chop paired with mashed potato and apple meat. Additionally, there is a remarkable selection of appetisers, salads and a soup. To perfectly complement all the luscious dishes on the menu, people can choose from red and white wine options to treat their taste palettes.

Where: Carver, 1/F, Crowne Plaza Hong Kong Causeway Bay
When: June 18
How much: HK$748 per person
For reservations: carver@cphongkong.com or (852) 5978 5971

Francis

Another restaurant to go to this weekend to devour a meal that is filling for your stomach and heart is Francis. The gourmet-class sumptuous Middle Eastern dishes here will take you on a culinary journey transcending your entire family to the colourful and exotic streets of Tel Aviv. With a wide variety of dishes like meze, shakshuka, kafta and more to be savoured, these a-la-carte dishes are perfect for families to bond as they share the dishes. Accompanying them are the main course options consisting of Seafood Couscous; Mughrabi Chicken Parm; and Steak & Eggs. And to further elevate the gastronomical experience, Francis brings to the table a collection of wines from the Meditterian region that were thoroughly selected by exceptional connoisseurs.

Where: Francis, 4 & 6 St. Francis Street, Wan Chai
When: Weekends (11:30 AM to 4:00 PM)
How much: Prices vary based on the dish
No reservations are required.

Man Ho

An equally impressive option for fathers who are a fan of the local Cantonese cuisine is Man Ho which will be serving two spesh 8-course menus consisting of some of the best culinary delights of the region. If you visit the fine dining area in the afternoon, the restaurant will bring plates of mouth-watering delicacies such as dim sums, Crispy Roasted Suckling Pig, Deep fried Lobster Claw with Shrimp Mousse, and Double-boiled Conch with Maca and Bamboo Pith. For the night, the Cantonese restaurant has prepared a dinner menu using only the most high-end ingredients in the market, significantly making all the dishes highly delectable. The dinner menu will have the following – Chilled Lobster Fillet and Salmon Roe with Mayonnaise; Double boiled Kanto Sea Cucumber Soup with Conch and Maca; Braised South African Dried Abalone with Goose Web; Braised Tiger Prawn with Cognac and Seaweed Sauce.

Where: Man Ho, Level 3, JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong
When: June 18 (11:30 AM to 3:00 PM for lunch and 6:00 PM to 10:00 PM for dinner)
How much: Lunch menu at HK$688 per person and dinner at HK$1288
For reservations: Click here (note: each booking should include a minimum of four people)

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare

There’s an exciting new entry into the 2022 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants guide that has gained much buzz since its opening a year ago. Wing restaurant, helmed by Michelin-starred Chef Vicky Cheng of acclaimed French-Chinese restaurant VEA, is nestled on the 29th floor of The Wellington in Sheung Wan, just a floor below its acclaimed sister eatery VEA.

Having been trained in French techniques, Wing is a step outside of Cheng’s comfort zone, prompted by his journey of rediscovering his Chinese roots. Here, the menu is described as seasonal dining. By sourcing only the freshest and seasonal ingredients, the Hong Kong-born chef offers his patrons a rotation of the best ingredients for each season of the year. “This is my take on Chinese cuisine”, Cheng tells Gafencu. “We do what I like to call ‘boundary-less Chinese cuisine’. By respecting centuries of traditions and flavour combinations, but at the same time adding our own element to the dishes, we are able to create flavours of our own, and ultimately a cuisine of our own”.

“We do ‘boundary-less Chinese cuisine’…adding our own element to the dishes to create flavours of our own”

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_firefly squid — Firefyle Squid with Yunnan Chili and Bull Kelp

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_Drunken South African Abalone — Drunken South African Abalone

Without delay, we began with a line up of cold appetisers. The Firefly Squid with Yunnan Chili and Bull Kelp was a deliciously tender and creamy bite with a gentle hint of spice, courtesy of the generous Yunnan chili garnished atop, while the Drunken South African Abalone was a sweeter follow up to contrast. Perfectly marinated with two different types of Chinese wine, the balance of sweet and savoury was a delight.

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_ Appetiser — French White Asparagus with Chicken Fat; Chili Shirako with Century Egg

To its side, was the French White Asparagus with Chicken Fat. Sprinkled with chicken skin crisps, this gave the dish a subtle yet noticeable dimension in texture and taste. Last in line from the appetisers was the Chili Shirako with Century Egg. Delighting with a custard-like texture and taste that paired perfectly well with the mild flavours of the soft-boiled century egg. The dish was brought together with a tantalising note thanks to the restaurant’s house-made Sichuan chilli sauce.

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_Steamed Japanese Pomfret — Steamed Japanese Pomfret with Preserved Vegetables

Serving as a brief interim while we waited in anticipation for the second course was the Shanlinsi Oolong tea. Subtle with a fruity aftertaste, our palates were refreshed as we steadied ourselves for the Steamed Japanese Pomfret with Preserved Vegetables. Complementing the fatty, natural sweetness of the meat was a liberal bed of house-preserved vegetables and fresh scallions – giving the fish a unique aroma.

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_baby_pigeon — Baby Pigeon with Cane Sugar

Next to arrive was the Baby Pigeon with Cane Sugar. Dry-aged for about three days, then glazed with sugar cane juice before finally smoked with dried sugar cane pulp, the result of this elaborate preparation is a decadently sweet and incredibly crispy skinned bird with juicy, tender meat that slid right off the bone.

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_Abalone sauce fish maw with morel mushroom rice — Abalone Sauce Fish Maw with Morel Mushroom Rice

Not long after had we finished off the game on our plates did the next dish arrive, the Abalone Sauce Fish Maw with Morel Mushroom Rice. The chef used two-head fish maw for the dish, which, to put in perspective, is thicker and more chewy than typical fish maw. Rich umami flavours exude throughout each component of the dish, from the fish maw that was braised in house-made abalone sauce to the morel mushroom rice that was elevated by the hint of earthy notes. When put together in a single bite, a seamless balance of texture and flavours are married in perfect harmony.

Wing restaurant spotlights Chinese cuisine with a creative modern flare_ Osmanthus snow gum with coconut sorbet — Osmanthus Snow Gum with Coconut Sorbet

To end on a refreshing note, the dessert arrived in the form of an Osmanthus Snow Gum with Coconut Sorbet. We took our time savouring this sweet ending for as long as it lasted. The snow gum, infused with Osmanthus tea, resembled the unique texture of a bird’s nest, but left a satisfying swirl of floral notes on our palates. The coconut sorbet, on the other hand, added a creamy body to the dessert that was both sweet and refreshing. If there was anything we could have added, it would have been a second serving.

Wing. 29/F The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central. (852) 2711 0063. wingrestaurant.hk

(Text & Photos: Roberliza Eugenio)

Gaia Ristorante continues to impress with elevated Italian cuisine

If there was ever a Hong Kong locale that called to mind the charm of a Roman piazza, it is surely the open plaza abutting Central’s Grand Millennium Plaza. How fortuitous, then, that nestled amid the lush foliage and grandiose staircases lies one of the city’s most iconic Italian restaurants – Gaia Ristorante. Having first opened its doors just over two decades ago, this grand dame of the SAR’s F&B scene has more than held its own through the never-ending waves of new eateries that have risen and fallen and risen again across the intervening years.

So, in a city where restaurants open and close at the drop of a hat, what’s the secret to Gaia’s outstanding longevity? “While our offerings are not that different from many other Italian eateries in the city, after more than two decades, we’ve put together a very solid offering. We focus on fresh ingredients and classic recipes that have been tried and tested with discerning diners over the years,” explains owner Pino Piano. “More importantly, we listen to our customers’ feedback. Some of our patrons have been coming back to us for two generations now, and if they’d like something tweaked slightly, we are more than happy to accommodate them.”

Affable and charming, Naples-born Piano is a stalwart of the industry who has seen the evolution of the city’s dining scene first-hand. Recalling Gaia’s early days, he says: “Things were totally different when we first began. We were the first restaurant to introduce al-fresco dining to the central business district. Up until that point, outdoor dining could only be found farther afield in Sai Kung or the outlying islands.”

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gaia-ristorante-elevated-italian-cuisine-dining-hongkong-gafencu-artichoke — Carciofi Fritti alla Giudia

gaia-ristorante-elevated-italian-cuisine-dining-hongkong-gafencu-fritto — Fritto in Semolina con Sale d’Acciuga

Eager to sample the fare that has enchanted the city since 2001, we begin our tasting with two appetisers – Carciofi Fritti alla Giudia and Fritto in Semolina con Sale d’Acciuga. The former is an ancient Roman-Jewish dish of flowering artichoke hearts that are boiled then deep-fried. Crisp on the outside and deliciously succulent on the inside, it’s an enticing opening act. The latter starter of fried calamari and red prawns is equally delicious. Each morsel here is lightly battered and fried before being sprinkled with anchovy salt, with an optional squeeze of lemon deftly cutting through the inherent oiliness of the dish.

gaia-ristorante-elevated-italian-cuisine-dining-hongkong-gafencu-spaghetti — Spaghetti con Gamberoni Rossi Piccanti

Continuing with the seafood motif, our next course of Spaghetti con Gamberoni Rossi Piccanti arrives tableside. Topped with a juicy, generously sized Mediterranean red king prawn, the underlying spaghetti is cooked to al-dente perfection and ladened with smaller shelled prawns as well. The sauce, too, merits particular mention, with the tanginess and slight piquancy of the spicy cherry tomatoes serving as the perfect foil for the oceanic accents of the dish.

gaia-ristorante-elevated-italian-cuisine-dining-hongkong-gafencu-manzo-wagyu — Manzo Wagyu ‘Mayura’ all’Olio e Sale Grosso

Onto the mains, we begin with the decadent Manzo Wagyu ‘Mayura’ all’Olio e Sale Grosso, featuring a sliced slab of wagyu sirloin accompanied by asparagus and Romanesco broccoli. Cows at the Mayura farm in Australia are given a chocolate-laden diet that is said to enhance the tenderness and flavour of their beef. Umami-laden and melt-in-your-mouth soft, this is guaranteed to be a hit with any meat-minded diner.

gaia-ristorante-elevated-italian-cuisine-dining-hongkong-gafencu-spigola in crosta di sale alle — Spigola in Crosta di Sale alla Cipollina

With our waistlines getting dangerously tight, the final course hoves into view: a beautiful plate of Spigola in Crosta di Sale alla Cipollina (an oven-baked sea bass accompanied by lemon and chives). The fish in question is, as Piano explains, first deboned then coated in a salt-and-egg white crust before being baked in the oven – a deft move that sees all its inherent flavours retained. Once unpacked, a dash of lemon and a sprinkling of chopped chives are all the garnishes required. A delicious blend of crunchy skin and fall-off-the-bone tender flesh, it’s small wonder that this signature dish has been on the menu since Gaia’s inception.

Gaia Ristorante. Unit 01-05, G/F, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Road Central, Central. (852) 2167 8200

(Text: Tenzing Thondup)

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