Comfort & Joy: Hillside meanders through Vietnam and Thailand to peak in a soulful cuddle of global flavours

If comfort food had a passport, Hillside at Kimpton Tsim Sha Tsui would be its international visa, stamped, approved and ready to take diners on a flavourful journey. Imagine fun and wit meeting the warm embrace of your favourite childhood meal, but with a sophisticated, global twist. That’s Hillside in a nutshell, an all-day dining spot where every bite feels like a hug from an old friend, but one who’s travelled the world and brought back souvenirs… of flavour, of course.

Perched on the 12th floor (because why not dine with a view?), Hillside kicks off each morning with a multicultural breakfast spread. Think crispy crêpes, spicy sambal and fresh tropical fruits. Kimpton Executive Chef Logan Hester, the maestro behind Hillside’s global comfort canvas, shares: “I like to bring in elements from different cultures to create a breakfast that’s both familiar and exciting.” Come lunchtime, there’s the playful Crab Cake Poppers, little bites that are basically seafood fireworks, and Honey Mustard Burnt Ends that are so tender, they practically melt in your mouth. For those craving a spicy kick, ‘Tom Yum’ Prawn Wontons are a spicy, herbaceous squeeze from Thailand, while Grilled Cabbage Caesar redefines the classic salad with smoky, charred and crunchy napa.

As the day progresses, Hillside transforms into a culinary playground for sharing. Pho Spiced Wagyu Beef Rib is a slow-cooked, spice-laden masterpiece. Seafood lovers will swoon over Khao Soi Lobster, where a Boston lobster gets cosy in a Thai red curry, and Pork Pad Kra Pao turns street food into a sit-down affair without losing its cred. For vegetarians seeking a little love, Mushroom Ragu pasta offers a plant-based punch of umami. Hester emphasises: “Creating dishes that evoke emotion involves understanding ingredients and respecting their natural flavours. That’s the core of my philosophy.”

Let’s not forget the grill section, because what’s a comfort-food experience without a little fire? Both the Wagyu Striploin Bavette and BBQ Lamb Ribs are glazed with a sticky, sweet-spicy char siu-like marinade. “Grilling adds a smoky depth that elevates comfort foods into something special,” notes the chef. “It’s about balancing heat and flavour to bring out the best in each ingredient.”

And just when you think Hillside can’t get any more charming, the desserts swoop in. Matcha Crème Brûlée balances bitterness and sweetness with a satisfying crack revealing velvety custard. Chocolate Basque Cheesecake is a fiery, fudgy love letter topped with jasmine Chantilly, a modern classic with a poetic twist.

American Hester, who spent five years working in Vietnam and previously helmed Chôm Chôm, focuses on fundamentals. “Vietnam taught me that flavour is layered with intention, letting ingredients speak for themselves rather than over-designing the plate,” he remarks. “Skill comes with time, but attitude defines your trajectory.”

Offering sound advice to aspiring chefs, he continues: “Take pride in your craft, invest in knowledge, and don’t confuse burnout with ambition. I have found my path by chasing challenge and investing in adventure and that’s not without a lot of risk.” He adds, with a wink: “When I’m on my deathbed, I would hate to look back and think ‘well, that was boring’.”

Hester’s approach to leading the team highlights clarity, respect and a dash of empathy, because, let’s face it, even chefs need a little TLC, especially when dealing with a soufflé that just refuses to rise. “Leadership is about understanding people as well as food,” he says. “Empathy, decisiveness and integrity are what make a chef a true leader. The best cooks don’t always make the best leaders, but the best leaders understand their team and connect with guests on a human level.”

His five-year goal? “Developing Hillside into a hallmark Hong Kong operation, one chapter at a time. From heritage-driven suppliers to sustainable fermentation programmes, we’re dreaming big and taking steady steps toward those dreams.”

Hillside is a gastronomic summit where flavours from Vietnam, Thailand, the US and beyond come together. As the chef concludes, “This is the hill I’d die on – because it’s delicious.” And it might be everyone’s new favourite spot for a global comfort cuddle; no passport required.

Hillside 12/F, Kimpton Tsim Sha Tsui, 11 Middle Road, Tsim Sha Tsui. Tel: 3919 6828. kimptonhongkong.com

Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Kimpton Tsim Sha Tsui

Duck Sittings: Harbourside One Duck Lane presents quacking Chinese classics with contemporary panache

Newly landed at the Hyatt Centric in North Point, One Duck Lane flies onto the gourmand’s radar as a culinary playground with a serious pedigree. With its elegant yet relaxed vibe, it’s perfect whether you’re out with family, celebrating a special occasion, or just treating yourself after a busy day. Once you taste the signature dishes, you’ll be planning your next visit faster than you can say “Peking Duck”.

Let’s start with the star of the show: Signature Roasted Peking Duck. This is the Hyatt’s legendary secret recipe, where ducks are raised for 45 days, air-dried for 72 hours, then roasted in an oven that’s almost as famous as the dish itself. The result? Crispy, golden skin that crunches beautifully with each bite, giving way to tender, juicy meat. Watching the chef carve it tableside is a culinary ballet, where every slice is a masterpiece. And if you want to push the experience even further, you can add Foie Gras Parfait with Truffle Sauce; yes, a modern twist that’s decadence on a plate.

Chef Jack Chan, a culinary maestro with more than 30 years’ experience, puts his heart into elevating Chinese classics. “I value Chinese culinary heritage immensely, but I also love challenging myself with new techniques and ingredients to bring out the best in each dish,” he says. His approach is a perfect blend of respect for tradition and hunger for innovation.

For example, Cumin Lamb Rack is a fiery delight: Mongolian lamb pan-fried with cumin and chilli peppers delivers a punch of flavour that’s both bold and balanced. For the chilled appetiser of ‘Yin Yang’ Chicken, slices of silky meat are stacked in a yin-yang formation and coated with a spicy Sichuan peanut sauce that wakes up your palate. A visual and culinary marvel, this dish is proof that presentation can be as compelling as taste.

Seafood lovers aren’t left out. One Duck Lane’s seasonal seafood dishes are sublime. Savour Western Australian Lobster steamed to tender perfection, or Leopard Garoupa with Rattan Pepper, a fish that’s fresh, flaky and bursting with flavour. Then there’s Pan-fried Scallop and Duck Foie Gras on Crispy Rice, a combination so rich and delicate, it’s like a culinary love story in every bite.

Dim-sum connoisseurs won’t want to miss Steamed Garoupa Dumpling. In a playful take on tradition, fish and shrimp are nestled within a delicate dumpling boat floating atop a mossy spinach-coloured egg white. It’s charming, delightful, and perfect for sharing. For something heartier, Black Pepper Wagyu Beef Puff combines the richness of wagyu with flaky pastry – a classic snack enriched.

Chan’s philosophy shines through every dish. “Innovation is vital,” he expounds. “Celebrate heritage but be passionate about creating something new.” His journey began in dried seafood shops with his father, and over the years, he’s mastered the art of balancing the old with the new.

Of course, no modern Chinese meal is complete without cocktails. One Duck Lane’s mixologists have created drinks that are as inventive as the dishes. Mala Punch, for instance, blends Sichuan peppercorn heat with chamomile tequila, pineapple and lime; it’s bold, refreshing and just a little bit daring. Or try The Peking Sour, a vibrant mix of Baijiu, Osmanthus wine and Aperol that transports your taste buds straight to northern China, with a splash of sunny Italy for good measure.

The dining space is like stepping into a contemporary Chinese mansion. High ceilings, lush textures and subtle nods to heritage, such as bamboo steamer pendant lights handcrafted by local artisans, all create a setting that’s both refined and welcoming. The Tea Chamber, a private dining room, feels like a family’s grand banquet hall, with playful artworks and witty quotes that add a touch of humour.

Every detail of One Duck Lane, from the artistic lighting to the intricate marble inlay, reflects the chef’s belief that good food is also about creating memories. So, if your craving is for Chinese, come for an experience that’s modern, memorable and utterly delicious. It’s a celebration of elevated, innovative Chinese culinary artistry, served with a side of harbour views. Indeed, if food is the universal language, then One Duck Lane is quacking fluently in the dialect of excellence.

Text: Joseff Musa Photos: One Duck Lane

Bao Wow: Petit Jardin beds down up high with exquisite dumplings, innovative cocktails and breathtaking vistas

You know the drill when heading up The Peak: you take the tram that feels like it’s about to tip over backward, you get to the top, and suddenly you are staring at one of the most ridiculous city views on earth – Victoria Harbour sparkling like it’s trying to outshine the tourists taking selfies. And now, in The Peak Tower, they’ve dropped a spot that’s basically saying, ‘Yeah, the view is great, but wait till you taste Shanghai dumplings in our chill surroundings.’

Petit Jardin is the cool younger sibling of Jardin de Jade, the iconic Shanghai restaurant brand whose first Hong Kong outpost, in Wan Chai, has long attracted sophisticates who savour xiao long bao like it’s fine art. The new Peak arrival grasps that heritage, dials down the white-tablecloth stiffness, and turns it into a bastion of contemporary casual dining with a Jiangnan twist, blending Huaiyang delicacy and Shanghainese soul.

The first thing that hits you as you step inside is the stylish décor. A bespoke design of curvy lines and colourful mosaics hiding little symbols like rice grains and river fish is artsy but not pretentious. It transports you into a modern Jiangnan garden – but one with an Instagram filter and harbour views. The mosaic wall at the entrance is genius. It’s shaped like a giant xiao long bao with the character 品 (taste/appreciate) hidden within, plus a cheeky ‘I Love Xiao Long Bao’.

We start with the Signature Cold Appetiser Platter – five little bites that wake up your mouth like a gentle alarm clock. Drunken chicken soaked in Shaoxing wine (boozy but elegant); vegetarian ‘abalone’ that’s somehow convincing; black-and-white fungus for that crunchy texture; marinated tomatoes with preserved plum (tangy-sweet perfection); and Sichuan-style cucumber that bites back just enough. In the appetiser equivalent of foreplay, it teases you for what’s next.

Which, in our case, is the Signature Jiangnan Gua Bao Platter, replete with soft, pillowy buns you stuff yourself. There’s rich, sticky twice-cooked pork, stir-fried beef with leeks, shredded chicken and cucumber, plus pickled cabbage, sesame sauce and radish to mix and match like you’re building your own edible Lego set. Every bite is a flavour party: sweet, savoury, crunchy, soft. It’s casual luxury in a bun.

The star, though, is Shanghai Juicy Trio Assorted Xiao Long Bao. There’s original (the classic pork-soup explosion), vegetarian (a fresh medley of mushrooms, wood ear, baby corn and carrots), and mala (numbing spice). With thin skins and juicy insides, the colours white, green and red are a dim-sum traffic light that says ‘go, go, go’.

We also try Stir-fried Rice Cake with Pork and Vegetable, a lighter take on the usual heavy-soy versions that lets the natural sweetness of the ingredients shine. Mapo Tofu with Snapper Fillet, featuring tender fish in a spicy sauce over springy shrimp-roe noodles, is fusion without trying too hard.

Drinks lean into Chinese-inspired creativity. The Rosé Bloom cocktail, headlined by Mei Kuei Lu (Chinese rose liqueur), is a dreamy pink mix of apple, lemon, rose syrup and bubbles. The lavender-scented Cloud Dream looks like a piece of the sky fell in your glass. Going non-alcoholic? Wellness meets wow in Osmanthus Pear with salty milk foam.

Petit Jardin takes tradition, adds playfulness, pairs it with killer views, and serves it with a side of ‘relax, you’re on holiday’. You leave full, happy and maybe a little tipsy from the third floral cocktail. If you’re up The Peak, skip the overpriced tourist traps and head here. Your taste buds (and your Instagram) will thank you.

And beyond the food and views, Petit Jardin offers a sanctuary where you can unwind after the crowds and chaos of the city below. It’s a place to linger, sip, and soak in the tranquility of the garden-like atmosphere, all while enjoying the luxurious comfort that makes every visit memorable. Whether it’s a casual lunch or a relaxed dinner, the restaurant’s ambiance invites you to slow down and savor the moment.

Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Petit Jardim

Dough to Dusk: Pizza on the crest of a Kai Tak wave – La Baia’s laid-back Italian vibe delights

Sun and sea breeze, the scent of freshly baked bread and vibrant plates of pasta and pizza beckon you to unwind at La Baia. This all-day dining oasis on the Kai Tak Sports Park waterfront is all about creating a laid-back, family-friendly atmosphere that makes every meal feel like a holiday.

At your first few steps into La Baia, you will be transported: walls are painted with ocean hues; cosy banquettes invite lingering conversations; and the gentle sway of a woven fabric installation overhead mimics the waves. The interior is a coastal dream of curved lines, natural materials like wood and stone, and lush greenery that bring the seaside indoors. As day turns to dusk, the space glows with bamboo-inspired pendant lamps, casting a golden, island-vacation vibe that instantly relaxes you.

Chef Sidhu Lakhveer Singh, the culinary maestro behind La Baia, shares his passion: “We cook as if feeding our own family – small batches, no shortcuts, olive oil poured generously.” It’s this genuine approach that shines through in every dish. With more than a decade of experience in European kitchens, Chef Sidhu’s philosophy is simple: “Less is more, if the less is perfect.” His signature dishes are honest, flavourful and rooted in tradition, yet approachable for modern diners.

The menu is a celebration of Italy’s heart and soul, with a Mediterranean twist. Starters like Calamari Fritti come with zesty lemon aioli, and Salmon Tartare is a fresh medley of avocado and pickled fennel, perfect for sharing and kicking off the meal with style. The hearty, house-made pastas are a revelation. Sea Urchin Aglio e Olio Linguine, coated in a rich sea-urchin emulsion and garlic confit, is decadent without being overwhelming, a true umami bomb that highlights the chef’s mastery of seafood.

He explains, “Every Tuesday and Friday, I wake up early to pick the best ingredients from wet markets. Tomatoes that smell like summer? They go straight into tonight’s sauce.” This dedication to freshness and seasonality ensures each dish is vibrant and authentic. Imported essentials like Parmesan and anchovies are complemented by locally sourced vegetables and herbs, creating a menu that is both authentic and sustainable.

Pizza fans will be delighted with La Baia’s Neapolitan-style pies, crafted from Italian ‘00’ flour and fermented for 24 hours. Diavolo Calabrese, topped with spicy Italian salami and a hint of spicy honey, is a fiery delight, while Tropicana, with ham and pineapple, adds a sweet tropical twist. Chef Sidhu emphasises, “Our dough is all about craftsmanship – slow fermentation, careful baking – to achieve that perfect chewy crust.”

For mains, Herb Roast Chicken, dry-aged for three days, is a standout, served with lemon-rosemary sauce and creamy Parmigiano polenta. Beef Short Ribs, so tender they fall off the bone, come with roasted baby carrots and a rich sauce. And don’t miss the Grilled Octopus: succulent, smoky and paired with pickled red onions for a tangy contrast.

La Baia also caters to the lively, family-oriented crowd with weekend brunches. From Eggs Benedict on sourdough to a juicy Steak & Eggs, the menu is flexible and fun. Want to elevate your brunch? Opt for a refreshing Spritz or a classic Bellini. The relaxed pace and pet-friendly outdoor patio make it perfect for leisurely mornings with loved ones, furry friends included.

Chef Sidhu’s advice? “Slow down, taste everything, and enjoy the moment.” His team shares his passion, starting each shift with a tasting to ensure every dish meets their high standards. “Happiness is seeing a three-year-old clap for gnocchi and grandparents asking for the recipe,” he says with a smile.

Looking ahead, the chef envisions La Baia as an extension of the neighbourhood’s living room. He plans to stay connected with the Kai Tak community, offering early mornings for espresso and late nights for limoncello. His goal? To keep the kitchen lively and the spirit of family alive for generations to come.

La Baia DC-010, G/F, Dining Cove, Harbour Front, Kai Tak Sports Park, 38-39 Shing Kai Road, Kowloon City. Tel: 2253 6686

Text: Joseff Musa Photos: La Baia

GEM In The Sky: Vegetable, mineral … Peridot perfects the artful crafts of terroir-based mixology and elegant green grazing

Perched 38 storeys above the bustling streets of Hong Kong within the Zaha Hadid-designed marvel that is The Henderson, newly opened Peridot promises to be a gem in the city’s ever-evolving culinary and cocktail scene. From its bold, surreal interior to its groundbreaking terroir-inspired cocktails and pioneering plant-based haute cuisine, this sky-high destination redefines what a modern gastronomic experience can be.

Far from your usual upscale bar and lounge, Peridot appears as a luminous emerald nestled among the clouds. The dreamy green space merges cutting-edge design, innovation and sustainability. Reflecting the ‘natural futurism’ design spirit of Toronto-based Studio Paolo Ferrari, it’s a sanctuary glowing with glass accents, sculptural marble surfaces and more than 20,000 handcrafted lights that dance in harmony with its vibrant green colour palette. Standing at the heart of it all, a striking light-green grand piano anchors the room with elegance and a touch of artistic flair.

Central to Peridot’s allure is a revolutionary global-terroir cocktail programme curated by Director of Beverage François Cavelier, which carefully considers the unique environmental influences of geography, soil and climate underpinning each spirit and liquor selected. The bar team’s debut chapter transports cocktail connoisseurs to Kagoshima, Japan, where premium shochu is famously distilled from sweet potatoes flourishing in mineral-rich soils around Sakurajima volcano.

Imagine sipping The 3 a.m. Whisky, a late-night concoction featuring Kanosuke single malt whisky, black apple decoction and yuzu chocolate – it whispers stories of volcanic soil and artisanal craft. Or indulge in Nude Study, a citrus and pepper-flavoured portrait of Akayane yuzushu and Ketel One vodka. For the adventurous, Durian’s Consent infuses the prized Malaysian Musang King fruit with a playful blend of shochu and rum, exemplifying the fearless innovation that defines Peridot’s mixology.

“The terroir concept allows us to tell stories through spirits, connecting drinkers to the land and the producers,” says Cavelier. “It’s about celebrating the environment’s influence on flavour, creating a deeper appreciation for each sip.”

Complementing the cocktails is the fermentation-forward haute cuisine of vegan specialist Lisandro Illa. While emphasising sustainability and health, the chef proves that plant-based cuisine can be just as indulgent and complex as that starring meat and seafood. A veteran of Copenhagen legend Noma, Illa practises patience alongside meticulous craftsmanship. Many dishes take more than 48 hours to perfect, transforming humble ingredients into extraordinary creations.

The bar menu features inventive bites like Earth and Sea Caviars, Golden Sparassis Crispa Mushroom Fries, and the signature Fleshy Fruits Cold Cuts, a multisensory experience of nut-based cheese and fruit-derived charcuterie. Lunchtime heralds a three- or four-course tasting menu, each showcasing the Argentinian’s dedication to innovation and mindful eating.

“My experience at Noma opened my eyes to the potential of fermentation and plant-based cuisine,” explains Illa. “Fermentation unlocks deep flavours and health benefits. It’s like alchemy – turning simple plants into something magical.”

He elaborates: “I see Peridot as a platform to showcase how rich, complex and satisfying this style of cooking can be. My goal is to show that plant-based food is not only nourishing but exciting and delicious for everyone. Happiness for me comes from creating dishes that surprise and delight. It’s about pushing boundaries and inspiring change in the culinary scene.”

The chef sums up his recipe for success as “contributing something meaningful – showing the world that plant-based haute cuisine is a force to be reckoned with”. Looking ahead, he envisions Peridot competing for international awards and collaborating globally, continually evolving as a pioneer in sustainable gastronomy.

Certainly, the future of hospitality shines brightly here – a polished emerald in the sky, waiting to be uncovered.

Peridot Summit 38, 38/F, The Henderson, 2 Murray Road, Central. Tel: 9722 8388. peridothk.com

Photos: Peridot

Daily Bread: Traditional southern Italian flavours rise in the hands of Grissini Chef Valerio Mandile

Grissini isn’t just about its namesake breadsticks, though those iconic, freshly baked, crisp sticks certainly steal the show. It’s a place where the soul of Italy’s southern regions comes alive through every plate, every aroma and every warm smile from the passionate team. Grand Hyatt’s celebrated restaurant presents a refined yet unpretentious escape to Campania, where Naples-born Chef de Cuisine Valerio Giuseppe Mandile weaves tradition with a dash of creativity, crafting dishes that are as memorable as they are delicious.

Walking into Grissini feels like stepping into a welcoming Italian home, with its convivial atmosphere and inviting décor. Floor-to-ceiling windows flood the space with natural light during the day and frame Hong Kong’s stunning skyline at night – the perfect backdrop for an intimate celebration or a casual dinner. The dining philosophy is simple: “Everything starts with traditional Italian flavours,” says Chef Valerio. “These have always been and will always be the main characters in every plate. How we present them is a matter of experience and imagination.”

Mandile emphasises the importance of fresh, high-quality ingredients throughout his cooking. “Everything begins with the choice of ingredients – they hold the key to an incredible dish,” he shares. “We can find cheaper options, but focusing solely on costs means losing sight of what truly matters – offering a memorable experience. Selecting the best produce, and respecting its natural qualities, is what elevates our dishes.”

As the year draws to a close, the chef ushers in a culinary journey to the foot of Italy. Grissini’s limited-time seasonal menu highlights the bold flavours of Calabria – the peninsula’s southernmost region – through three dishes starring the fruits of the sea, and an enchanting dessert embracing fruit and chocolate. A delicate melding of freshness and acidity, marinated swordfish carpaccio dressed with bergamot, mandarin oil and sea herbs awakens the palate. For the pasta course, artisanal linguine is tossed with succulent red prawns and nduja, a spicy, spreadable salami that adds a fiery kick.

The main of seared red mullet, beautifully paired with a light, delicate prawn mousse, offers a perfect balance of richness and finesse. Kaki (persimmon) espuma, pomegranate jelly, chestnut and dark chocolate sorbet concludes this Calabrian adventure in a sweet explosion of textures and taste.

Mandile’s approach to seasonal menus is rooted in tradition and creativity. “We start with classic flavours and then add our personal touch, inspired by the ingredients and the moment,” he explains. His dedication to simplicity, authenticity and innovation allows the ingredients’ true essence to shine.

Speaking of another seasonal pleasure now available at Grissini, he says: “When I incorporate white truffles into dishes, I keep preparations straightforward. Their flavours are so complex and fragile that the best way to enjoy them is with minimal manipulation – sometimes just a shaving or two,” he adds, smiling

.Wine pairing is another art form at Grissini, expertly curated by Head Sommelier Alex Wai. “He promotes unique Italian bottles, and his pairings often surprise me with how perfectly they complement our dishes. The complexity of the wine and the richness of the food dance harmoniously on the palate, elevating the entire experience.”

For Mandile, success isn’t solely measured by accolades or reviews; it’s also about the diners. “Nothing beats seeing returning customers,” he says. “Their loyalty is proof that we’re offering something special. Their positive feedback is what keeps me motivated and inspired to keep improving. And to all our guests and my team, I want to say thank you. You’re the real reason I love what I do.”

You’re not just enjoying a meal as you settle into the cosy elegance of Grissini, with its warm ambience and breathtaking views; you’re experiencing Italy’s vibrant traditions. This 36-year grande signora of Hong Kong’s fine-dining scene promises an exemplary culinary escape that lingers long after the last bite.

Grissini 2/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Wan Chai. Tel: 2584 7722.

hongkong.grand.hyattrestaurants.com

Photos: Grissini

Power of Ten: Chinesology’s halal odyssey explores the city’s rich gastronomic soul

Ten Flavours of Hong Kong, the ambitious tasting menu launched by Chinesology, is a halal-friendly tribute to the city’s vibrant, multifaceted food heritage told through 10 meticulously crafted dishes, each echoing a different facet of Hong Kong’s culinary soul.

The restaurant in IFC Mall has quickly become a beacon of modern Chinese culinary artistry, and its interiors whisper stories of tradition and contemporary elegance. High ceilings, shimmering mirrors and lush marble accents create an environment that’s as much a sanctuary for the senses as it is a showcase of culinary craftsmanship. Chef Saito Chau, the mastermind behind this culinary voyage, speaks passionately of his inspiration. He says: “With Ten Flavours, we wanted to encapsulate that diversity in a way that honours tradition but also invites new interpretations.”

The menu is a symphony of flavours, carefully curated with the support of beloved local brands and farms. From the legendary Lee Kum Kee’s centuries-old soy sauces to Tin Hong Chicken’s halal-certified poultry from the Kam Tin valley, each ingredient salutes Hong Kong’s resourcefulness and local pride.

Take, for example, the opening act of Chilled King Prawn with Seaweed and Lee Kum Kee Soy Sauce. Here, Chau reimagines traditional Chiu Chow flavours with a modern twist: succulent prawns are marinated in naturally fermented soy sauce, paired with kudzu rice transformed into delicate ‘caviar’, and infused with Tieguanyin sparkling tea.

Deep Fried King Crab Claw showcases Hong Kong’s famous Typhoon Shelter cooking method – stir-frying with garlic and chilli to preserve the crustacean’s natural sweetness. The palate-refreshing Homemade Sorbet with Vita Lemon Tea Flavour follows, a homage to the city’s iconic beverage culture.

The narrative continues with the likes of Braised Lee Hoong Kee Premium Dried Abalone with Stone Grains, starring sea snails sourced from South Africa and stewed in a house-secret, flavour-rich sauce in an ode to Hong Kong’s love affair with dried seafood and treasured ingredients. Smoked Tin Hong Chicken with Rock Oolong Tea Leaf, meanwhile, showcases the first halal-certified chicken in Hong Kong; the bird is air-dried and smoked with fragrant Fujian tea leaves, resulting in a dish that’s both nostalgic and novel.

“Balancing tradition with innovation is a challenge, but it’s what makes this journey exciting,” reflects Chau. “We respect the ingredients and techniques passed down through generations, but we’re not afraid to push boundaries, using sous-vide, molecular plating and contemporary presentations to make each dish a story in itself.”

Part of what makes this experience special is the collaboration with local brands that embody Hong Kong’s culinary resilience. Lee Kum Kee sauces lend depth, Tin Hong Chicken instils freshness, and Nestlé’s condensed milk adds a touch of sweetness to the elegant Longan and Gum Tragacanth Panna Cotta, the first of two desserts.

When asked about the philosophy behind the menu, Chau emphasises respect for ingredients, for history and for cultural identity. “Our goal was to create a halal menu that feels authentic, yet accessible. Each dish is a story, a reflection of Hong Kong’s resilience and creativity,” he explains.

The gifted Chau shares his vision of future projects: “We want to continue exploring fusion – blending local ingredients with global techniques, and developing immersive dining experiences that tell the story of Hong Kong’s culinary evolution. Sustainability and local sourcing will be at the core of these endeavours.”

Without a doubt, the one-of-a-kind Ten Flavours menu fosters cultural understanding through the universal language of good food. As the chef eloquently puts it, “Food is a bridge. It unites us, tells our stories, and keeps our heritage alive.” And at Chinesology, that story is as rich, diverse and vibrant as Hong Kong itself.

A Toast To Paris: With Languedoc on tap, Jean-Pierre is a decadent ode to the charm of French bistros

Candlelight flickering over repurposed wine bottles coated with cascading wax catches the eye upon stepping into Jean-Pierre. Its subtle glow casts a warm, amber hue across this French bistro in the back streets of Central, setting the tone for an evening of indulgence and revelry. Lush roses complement the deep red, burgundy and dark-green hues of velvet curtains and plush upholstery, while the slow, lo-fi soundtrack drapes the room in a nostalgic haze, whispering tales of Parisian soirées long past. It’s a space designed not just for dining but for immersion, marrying the glamour of old-world Paris with the vibrancy of contemporary Hong Kong.

The restaurant’s lively hub is the elegant cocktail bar, perfect for early starts or late-night endings, where a skilled team crafts drinks that are as artful as they are delicious. However, the beating heart of Jean-Pierre is its kitchen, helmed by rising star John Troupis. “Conviviality is at the heart of what we do,” explains Troupis. “We want you sharing, having fun and drinking wine. Dining here is about more than just the food – it’s about the experience, the stories, the laughter.” His philosophy echoes through every dish, which is crafted to encourage communal sharing and celebration.

The menu reads like a love letter to French cuisine’s glorious simplicity. Classics such as Steak Tartare, Soupe à l’Oignon and Boeuf Bourguignon serve as the perfect backdrop for conviviality. Chef John emphasises the importance of authenticity, stating: “We’re not trying to reinvent the wheel but to make the best-ever rendition of these timeless dishes.”

The thick, soulful onion soup arrives with a golden crust of melted cheese, while the beef, slathered in Bourguignon sauce, melts in your mouth, tender and rich with red wine and earthy mushrooms. Spectacle is woven into the food. Tableside flambéed Crêpes Suzette crackles in a blaze of light, and Sole Meunière arrives with theatrical flair, the fish perfectly crisped and bathed in a buttery sauce.

The pièce de résistance is Poulet de Simone, a reimagining of classic roast chicken featuring Hong Kong’s exceptional three yellow chicken stuffed with mushrooms, tarragon and spinach. The simple but iconic Oeuf Mimosa, served per hard-boiled egg half, pays homage to the long-lived French tradition.

Taking centre stage is La Table de Jean-Pierre, a large round table that seats up to nine people who become part of the celebration, immersed in the lively atmosphere. The extensive wine list, curated by sommeliers Jean-Baptiste Copot and Nicolas Eyquem, features everything from Grand Crus to Hong Kong’s first Languedoc on tap. For those indulging to the utmost, the Tournée de Jean-Pierre offers a collective toast with glasses of Ayala Champagne for every guest in the house – a true embodiment of French conviviality.

The American chef, who worked under three-star Christian Bau in Germany before landing at Hong Kong’s French fine-dining institution, Amber, in 2019, offers his insights on bistro culture: “Sharing meals is about bringing people together, giving them a moment to connect. It’s not just about the plate but the story and the experience around it.” Troupis’ passion is evident when he talks about executing dishes like Steak au Poivre and Soupe à l’Oignon perfectly – the kind of honest, truthful cooking that leaves no room for error but offers endless satisfaction.

The spirit of Parisian joie de vivre pulses at Jean-Pierre. It’s a place where laughter, storytelling and celebration are woven into the very fabric of the experience. “Our founder Marc Hofmann describes his father [Jean-Pierre] as the ultimate host – a bon vivant who filled their home with laughter and shared meals,” explains Chef John. “That generosity of spirit is what we aim to recreate here.”

Truly, at Jean-Pierre, food becomes a bridge, connecting cultures, stories and people. As its Chef de Cuisine concludes, “Through cooking, we share stories and transport guests to another time and place. That’s the greatest gift we can give.”

Porterhouse. 24/F, California Tower 30-36 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong.

Tel: 2522 6366. lkfconcepts.com

Text: Joseff Musa Photos: Black Sheep Restaurants

Steak Reclaimed: Sharing plates showcasing simple, honest flavours are the new dining highs at Porterhouse

An evening at Porterhouse is like stepping into the clouds – literally – and a whole new world of dining. Perched on the 24th floor of Lan Kwai Fong’s California Tower, this iconic restaurant has traded its traditional steakhouse roots for a lively, inclusive and visually stunning communal experience that perfectly captures Hong Kong’s vibrant multicultural spirit. With sweeping skyline views, a playful yet sophisticated atmosphere, and a menu that champions ‘Small Plates, Big Joy’, Porterhouse is redefining what it means to dine together in the city’s heart.

Executive Chef Michael ‘Mick’ Bolam, the well-travelled Australian culinary mastermind behind this transformation, outlines his vision: “Our focus is on creating simple, genuine dishes that showcase the quality of our ingredients.”

Sharing menus are inspiring and often daring. Ours begins with Milk of the Tiger, a delicate, fresh scallop bathed in buttermilk and coconut milk, topped with Mexican ancho chilli oil. It’s a beautiful way to awaken the senses, balancing sweetness with a smoky kick. As Bolam puts it, “Our dishes are about honest flavours; simple, genuine, yet refined.” You can really taste that philosophy here. This dish sets the tone for the evening: a celebration of fresh ingredients crafted with mindful simplicity.

Moving on, ‘Bang Bang’ Shrimp is an instant hit – crispy, spicy and coated in Chef Mick’s signature ‘danger sauce’. It’s the kind of snack that makes you want to double down and order more. The shrimp are wrapped in a flaky brik pastry that crunches satisfyingly with each bite, making it perfect for sharing. It’s one of those small plates that makes you feel like you’re part of a large, lively gathering rather than dining with just one close friend.

The menu’s fusion twist shines brightest with the next arrival, Uni Toast. Toasted charcoal bread cradles a generous heap of creamy sea urchin, topped with salmon roe and shiso leaf. It’s a luxurious bite that transports you straight to the coast, blending Asian oceanic flavours with a Western-style presentation. The chef explains: “We respect traditional techniques but aren’t afraid to push boundaries.” That’s evident here; it’s a dish that’s both familiar and fearless.

The Tableside Surf ‘n’ Turf Style Wagyu Beef Tartare is an edible spectacle that will leave you awestruck! Imagine a luxurious canvas awaiting your artistic touch. With a medley of intriguing ingredients, including the savory Lap Cheong sausage and the oceanic burst of salmon roe, you’ll be the maestro of your own gastronomic masterpiece. The experience is as much about the theatre as it is about the taste – savoring each delicate bite is like unwrapping a present on your palate.

But if you crave something more substantial, the Roasted Bone Marrow is a soul-warming indulgence. Imagine a tender, velvety bone marrow experience, elevated by the subtle nuances of Cambodian pepper and salt, all wrapped in a fragrant herb salad and served with crispy sourdough bread – the perfect comfort food to wrap your senses around.

For something heartier, Lamb Skewer is a revelation. Marinated overnight and grilled to perfection, each tender piece is served with a sweet Gorgonzola dressing and poached pear, an unexpected yet harmonious pairing.

And then, for the grand finale, the dessert recommendation: house-made Hong Kong milk tea ice cream. Rich, gooey and decadently sweet, it’s the perfect shareable treat for two, sealing the meal with a lush, comforting note.

As our night out draws to a close, Chef Mick’s vision is crystal clear. “Creating memorable, culturally rich dining experiences isn’t just about the food,” he shares. “It’s about the stories we tell and the connections we make.” And true enough, at Porterhouse that vision is now soaring alongside the city’s breathtaking skyline.

Porterhouse. 24/F, California Tower 30-36 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong.

Tel: 2522 6366. lkfconcepts.com

HARBOUR OF HARMONY: Settle back at Minato’s teppan tables for a serene seasonal voyage through bountiful Japan

Minato has been quietly redefining the Japanese dining experience since opening in Wan Chai last summer. It’s an oasis of the calm and contemplation where aficionados can immerse themselves in the seasonality, craftsmanship and quiet luxury of elevated teppanyaki, kaiseki, omakase and sushi.

The very name Minato, which means harbour in Japanese, sets the tone for an occasion that promotes refuge and cultural exchange. The urban hustle outside quickly fades into stillness as we are graciously steered through serene, spacious surroundings to our table. Shoji screens diffuse soft lighting, wooden elements add organic warmth, and a palette of calming green tones enhances the aura of elegant minimalism.

The Tsubaki Weekend Teppanyaki Dinner Set is also aptly named – the camellia (tsubaki) is a symbol of grace and beauty in Japanese culture, and the nine-course culinary journey we embark upon is as delicately balanced and elegantly structured as the flower. The set encapsulates the ethos of Minato – seasonal stories told through flavour, aroma, temperature and timing.

A meticulously plated appetiser prepares the stage for an artful presentation of toro, botan shrimp and striped jack flown in daily from Japan’s fish markets. The sashimi course is not just a tasting but a quiet meditation on freshness and balance.

The toro is rich and luxuriously marbled, melting on the tongue with a buttery smoothness that defines top-grade fatty belly of the bluefin tuna. Prized for its size and sweetness, the botan shrimp arrives with a translucent hue, its plump flesh offering a crisp snap and lingering ocean sweetness. The white trevally, with its clean, lightly oily profile, offers a refined contrast to the other two cuts.

We continue with two seafood treasures cooked on the teppan with care. Black tiger prawn is plump and meaty, its natural sweetness enhanced by minimal seasoning and masterful handling. The crustacean is grilled until just opaque, releasing a subtle, smoky aroma.

Accompanying it is South African abalone, thinly sliced to preserve its tenderness yet retain its characteristic chewy texture and deep, mineral-rich flavour. Lightly seasoned and seared, the prized mollusc is a study in restraint, underscoring how expert technique and quality ingredients can speak volumes without embellishment.

At the heart of the Tsubaki set is Minato’s crown jewel: A5 Miyazaki sliced wagyu beef. Boasting a BMS (beef marbling score) of 12 – the highest rating – this world-renowned wagyu is sourced from Miyazaki Prefecture, where cattle are raised under strict conditions to deliver beef of incomparable quality. The wagyu is lightly seared and wrapped with garlic and green onion, a simple but brilliant pairing that enhances its umami depth without distracting from its intrinsic richness. The beef glistens as it hits the plate, and each bite yields an exquisite juxtaposition of seared outer edge and melting interior.

Then comes another house signature, Japanese pepper with whitebait fried rice, a dish as comforting as it is refined. With sansho pepper adding a gentle numbing tingle, the crispy whitebait offers bright, comforting contrast to the indulgent wagyu we have just enjoyed. Here again, the balance between richness and freshness is maintained with elegant precision – a hallmark of Japanese cuisine.

Seasonal vegetables follow, grilled to accentuate their natural sweetness and earthiness; next, a warming bowl of miso soup and a serving of house pickles. These familiar elements return the elevated dining experience to its humble roots while cleansing the palate in preparation for the final course.

A beautifully crafted dessert of green tea roll cake paired with red bean mochi completes the journey, focusing on light textures and harmonious flavours rather than strong sweetness. Our meal is enhanced by attentive yet unobtrusive service and sake selections to augment each course.

Dining at Minato is an invitation to pause and immerse yourself fully in the moment. There is no excess, no flamboyance – only harmony, balance and deep respect for the culinary traditions of Japan.

Minato. G/F, Great Eagle Centre, 23 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong. Tel: 2345 0663. minato.com.hk

Text: Jill Trip