HARBOUR OF HARMONY: Settle back at Minato’s teppan tables for a serene seasonal voyage through bountiful Japan

Minato has been quietly redefining the Japanese dining experience since opening in Wan Chai last summer. It’s an oasis of the calm and contemplation where aficionados can immerse themselves in the seasonality, craftsmanship and quiet luxury of elevated teppanyaki, kaiseki, omakase and sushi.

The very name Minato, which means harbour in Japanese, sets the tone for an occasion that promotes refuge and cultural exchange. The urban hustle outside quickly fades into stillness as we are graciously steered through serene, spacious surroundings to our table. Shoji screens diffuse soft lighting, wooden elements add organic warmth, and a palette of calming green tones enhances the aura of elegant minimalism.

The Tsubaki Weekend Teppanyaki Dinner Set is also aptly named – the camellia (tsubaki) is a symbol of grace and beauty in Japanese culture, and the nine-course culinary journey we embark upon is as delicately balanced and elegantly structured as the flower. The set encapsulates the ethos of Minato – seasonal stories told through flavour, aroma, temperature and timing.

A meticulously plated appetiser prepares the stage for an artful presentation of toro, botan shrimp and striped jack flown in daily from Japan’s fish markets. The sashimi course is not just a tasting but a quiet meditation on freshness and balance.

The toro is rich and luxuriously marbled, melting on the tongue with a buttery smoothness that defines top-grade fatty belly of the bluefin tuna. Prized for its size and sweetness, the botan shrimp arrives with a translucent hue, its plump flesh offering a crisp snap and lingering ocean sweetness. The white trevally, with its clean, lightly oily profile, offers a refined contrast to the other two cuts.

We continue with two seafood treasures cooked on the teppan with care. Black tiger prawn is plump and meaty, its natural sweetness enhanced by minimal seasoning and masterful handling. The crustacean is grilled until just opaque, releasing a subtle, smoky aroma.

Accompanying it is South African abalone, thinly sliced to preserve its tenderness yet retain its characteristic chewy texture and deep, mineral-rich flavour. Lightly seasoned and seared, the prized mollusc is a study in restraint, underscoring how expert technique and quality ingredients can speak volumes without embellishment.

At the heart of the Tsubaki set is Minato’s crown jewel: A5 Miyazaki sliced wagyu beef. Boasting a BMS (beef marbling score) of 12 – the highest rating – this world-renowned wagyu is sourced from Miyazaki Prefecture, where cattle are raised under strict conditions to deliver beef of incomparable quality. The wagyu is lightly seared and wrapped with garlic and green onion, a simple but brilliant pairing that enhances its umami depth without distracting from its intrinsic richness. The beef glistens as it hits the plate, and each bite yields an exquisite juxtaposition of seared outer edge and melting interior.

Then comes another house signature, Japanese pepper with whitebait fried rice, a dish as comforting as it is refined. With sansho pepper adding a gentle numbing tingle, the crispy whitebait offers bright, comforting contrast to the indulgent wagyu we have just enjoyed. Here again, the balance between richness and freshness is maintained with elegant precision – a hallmark of Japanese cuisine.

Seasonal vegetables follow, grilled to accentuate their natural sweetness and earthiness; next, a warming bowl of miso soup and a serving of house pickles. These familiar elements return the elevated dining experience to its humble roots while cleansing the palate in preparation for the final course.

A beautifully crafted dessert of green tea roll cake paired with red bean mochi completes the journey, focusing on light textures and harmonious flavours rather than strong sweetness. Our meal is enhanced by attentive yet unobtrusive service and sake selections to augment each course.

Dining at Minato is an invitation to pause and immerse yourself fully in the moment. There is no excess, no flamboyance – only harmony, balance and deep respect for the culinary traditions of Japan.

Minato. G/F, Great Eagle Centre, 23 Harbour Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong. Tel: 2345 0663. minato.com.hk

Text: Jill Trip

Tapas Untamed: Experience the flowing flavours and boundless vibrancy of a Spanish fiesta at Qué Pasa

With its inviting juxtaposition of warm-bricked and pale-painted walls, large open windows that let in the afternoon sun, and a high, exposed ceiling adorned with tanks of flowing signature drinks, you can feel the lively Spanish spirit the moment you step inside Qué Pasa Tapas y Vino. Making its debut last November, this Tai Hang haven has rapidly become the go-to hotspot for comforting tapas and expertly charred grilled dishes. It delightfully blends great value with bold flavours that echo the vibrancy of its Spanish roots.

Diners flock here not just for the tantalising dishes but also for the lively atmosphere that encourages communal dining – something Chef Amaru Morales, the culinary mastermind behind the restaurant, aims to celebrate. He is passionate about authenticity and flavour, and his commitment shines through each dish. From the toasted Tomato Bread to the lavish Ham Bikini, each offering has been perfected with painstaking detail. A personal favourite? The Gazpacho – a refreshing blend of ripe tomatoes and aromatic garlic that bursts with flavour and is perfect for cleansing the palate.

“Tapas is all about sharing, celebrating and enjoying food with others,” says Morales. “Creating an inclusive dining culture allows guests to explore diverse flavours, just as you would with family-style dining back in Latin America.”

Indulge in crowd-pleasing choices like juicy Spanish Meatballs braised in tomato sauce and Braised Tripe Stew, a dish slow-cooked for more than six hours that melts in your mouth. For those seeking heartier gratification, Qué Pasa has options that will leave you grinning from ear to ear. The char-grilled 250g Ribeye Steak and ¼ Suckling Pig are the stars of a tempting charcoal-oven listing that will undoubtedly satisfy any untamed cravings.

On weekends, Qué Pasa presents an à la carte brunch that encourages diners to mix and match their Spanish-inspired favourites. Fancy a luxurious start to your day? Awaken your taste buds with the likes of Eggs Flamenco or Steak and Eggs for a decadent meal that’s bound to invoke lazy Sunday vibes. Elevate your brunch with a selection of add-on tapas such as Boquerones (anchovies) and crispy Croquettes of mushroom or cod, or even freshly shucked Oysters that simply scream indulgence.

Oh, and let’s not forget the drinks: a 90-minute free-flow package includes refreshing Spanish cava, house wines and vibrant mocktails. What more can you ask for on a leisurely weekend?

As we explore the culinary offerings of Qué Pasa, it’s impossible not salute the creative genius behind the menu. Born in Ecuador and raised in Chile, Chef Amaru’s culinary journey echoes the rich heritage of Spanish cuisine infused with South American charm. “I was exposed to a melange of tastes while working across continents – from mastering French techniques in Hong Kong to embracing the heartiness of South American cooking,” he shares excitedly. “Now, I pour all that into creating a menu that champions authenticity while offering Hong Kong diners a taste of home.”

His passion for ethical kitchen practices is equally commendable. Partnering with environmentally-conscious seafood suppliers, the chef ensures that patrons savour fresh and sustainable dishes that honour Mother Earth while delighting the palate.

Not only is Qué Pasa dedicated to serving delectable dishes, but it is also committed to being an active community hub. “We strive to create a warm ambience where diners feel like family,” reflects Morales. The restaurant features large communal tables and an open kitchen that invites all-comers to watch the magic as it happens – a reminder that food is best enjoyed together.

In line with its community spirit, Qué Pasa regularly hosts events and workshops to promote culinary engagement, letting you bask in the joy of sharing incredible experiences as well as food.

So, slip into your comfiest shoes, gather your friends and family, and head over to Qué Pasa Tapas y Vino for a congenial culinary adventure that promises to leave you craving more. After all, who can resist a fiesta of flavours, warmth and laughter?

Que Pasa. GF, 98 Tung Lo Wan Rd, Tai Hang, Hong Kong Tel: +852 9169 0298. quepasatapas.com

Photos: Que Pasa Tapas y Vino    Video: Jack Fontanilla

Flight of the Falcone: The pizzeria’s neo-Neapolitan wonders can be savoured at a new outpost atop The Peak

Stepping into Falcone’s vibrant new space at The Peak, we are immediately greeted by a cascade of colours and the inviting warmth of an enormous, golden brick oven – a majestic piece that feels like the heart of the kitchen. Chef Roberta De Sario stands beside her custom-made Pavesi pizza oven, grinning like a proud parent. “I love it here!” she declares with a cheeky smile. “It’s the perfect place for me because it can get too cold outside sometimes.” The contrast between her infectious fervour and the chilly mountain-top breeze sets the tone for a delightful meal.

Falcone is more than just a restaurant; it is a celebration of the chaos and beauty of Naples, the Italian city known for its animated streets, tantalising food and robust flavours. It’s not every day you witness chefs merging traditional techniques with modern twists, but that’s the magic recipe at Falcone. De Sario, who has spent over a decade honing her craft and was recently named among the 100 best pizza chefs in the world, and Chef Josh Stumbaugh, whose light-hearted connection to falcon breeding undoubtedly adds an intriguing twist to the story, invite diners into their world of neo-Neapolitan delights.

When Chef Roberta is asked what inspired her to introduce this take on pizza- and pasta-centric cuisine to Hong Kong’s culinary landscape, the Neapolitan responds with palpable passion: “I wanted to share a piece of my heritage, with the energy, passion and history of our pizza embedded in every slice.” With this philosophy in mind, we belly up to the table, ready to experience something both familiar and refreshingly innovative.

The adventure begins with Zuppa di Ceci e Vongole, a chickpea and clam soup that takes us right to the Campanian coastline. Chef Josh describes it as an homage to the region’s fishermen, who look to hearty chickpeas to provide much-needed protein when they are out on their boats. When the legumes are paired with Manila clams and a briny sauce finished with a drizzle of olive oil, each spoonful feels like a warm hug on a cool day. The attention to detail, with roasted rosemary adding a fragrant note, is a chef’s kiss moment.

Next comes Strozzapreti Basilico e Tonno, a finely crafted hand-rolled pasta with vivid green basil pesto, sundried tomatoes and exquisite tuna confit. “It’s a delicious mix of fresh basil and tangy sundried tomato, and it hits the land and sea perspective of Campania,” he explains. Each bite dances on the palate, balancing simplicity and vibrancy in perfect harmony.

Apart from the signature pizzas, baked for longer and at a lower temperature than the common Neapolitan slices, Falcone’s pièce de résistance is a dolci. Torta dell’Ubriacone, a citrus ‘hangover cake’ that embodies Naples’ spirit, is the ideal note to finish the meal. Moist and zesty, it captures the heights of flavour and offers a light-hearted sweetness. As we take the last bite, we cannot help but feel just a bit lighter, as if we too have soared above the city on a golden falcon.

Before we bid adieu, we have one last chance to chat with the chefs about their philosophies. De Sario offers sage advice for aspiring pizzaiolos: “Master the art with passion, uphold tradition, but don’t be afraid to innovate!” Stumbaugh chimes in, echoing the importance of storytelling in every dish, whether traditional or inspired by their travels. “Each plate should tell a story, reflecting the people and places that shaped us,” he opines.

The soul of Falcone lies not only in its incredible food but also in the community forged between chefs and guests. The moment the first diners sit at their pink and green upholstered chairs, the irresistible spirit of Naples fills the air. Chef Roberta reminisces: “On the opening night, I had tears of joy in my eyes, seeing people embrace the spirit of Naples.” For Chef Josh, the laughter and commingling of voices bring a sense of family, proving that food is about connection, whether on the edge of a bustling city or at the top of The Peak.

At Falcone, the energy of Naples intertwines with the essence of Hong Kong while forging unforgettable memories, and the sky is truly the limit.

Falcone, Shop G02, G/F, Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Road, The Peak

Photos: Falcone    Video: Jack Fontanilla  

Rail Carte: Take The Chinnery’s culinary slow train from Britain to India with a whisky flight in hand 

The Chinnery, long a cultural jewel nestled within the Mandarin Oriental in Hong Kong, has undergone a captivating renaissance, echoing the grand interiors of a vintage train – a symphony of history, elegance, and a taste of adventure.

As you step into this reimagined space, the rich mahogany panelling, plush carpets and sumptuous leather furnishings evoke a bygone era of travel, where every meal felt like a stop at a destination brimming with discovery. Here, dining becomes less about mere sustenance and more a passage through time, allowing patrons to relive the narrative of British colonial charm, alongside culinary delights that fuse tradition with innovation.

At the heart of this transformation lies a thoughtfully curated menu titled ‘Taste of The Chinnery’. “The restaurant is named after an esteemed 19th century British artist George Chinnery who dedicated his life in capturing British colonial scenes. This menu is about honouring the heritage and legacy of the restaurant and also a tribute to the year the hotel opened,” explains the hotel’s Executive Sous Simon Guthridge. The menu is not just a feast but an experience of a harmonious blend of timeless classics and intriguing new creations that push the boundaries of culinary artistry.

It begins with a selection of snacks, where one finds comfort in Lamb Samosa, paired perfectly with fresh mint yoghurt, and Keema Kulcha. Each bite beckons nostalgia, reminiscent of travels through crowded bazaars and heritage kitchens. Herein lies the essence of The Chinnery; it crafts a narrative where every dish connects diners to distant lands without leaving Hong Kong.

For starters, there’s the classic delight of prime tenderloin Tartare. With its rich, secret homemade sauce and cage-free egg, it is a beautiful homage to British cuisine. However, should you yearn for something novel, Broccoli Velouté awaits; its lush and creamy profile intersperses with hints of seasonal freshness.

Taking centre stage among the main dishes are the Classic Shepherd’s Pie, prepared with organic lamb shoulder, the fragrant Tikka Chicken and the new Bengali Mixed Fish Curry, brimming with fresh tomatoes and ground mustard seeds.

The careful crafting of this dish speaks to his creative process, one that intertwines exploration with meticulous preparation. “I began with a deep exploration of traditional recipes, then I experimented with new techniques and flavour profiles,” he elaborates.

To accompany the meals, a medley of sides adds depth: Creamed Potato, Sautéed French Beans and an array of Naan. The dessert arrives with the classic Chocolate Lava Cake and the Phirni, offering a delicate end to the meal, each spoonful layered with rose petal ice cream.

An equally important aspect of the dining experience at The Chinnery is its impressive collection of more than 120 rare single-malt whiskies – ideal companions to every meal. The chef encourages exploring these malts in tandem with their culinary offerings. “The whisky selection complements the menu beautifully, enhancing flavours seamlessly,” he notes, hinting at some of his favourite pairings.

As the ambience envelops you, the newly refreshed interior fuses heritage and elegance, elevating the tranquil dining experience. “The intimate and tranquil setting plays a pivotal role in the overall experience, encouraging relaxation and connection,” says Guthridge.

So what lies ahead for The Chinnery? “We will continue to update our menus based on seasonality. We are also looking forward to working with whisky brands more closely for more intimate whisky tasting dinners.” reveals Guthridge, clearly enthused about future collaborations with local artisans and farmers to deepen the restaurant’s ties to the region.

A true wonder, The Chinnery is a voyage that promises not just a meal, but a profoundly rich experience that resonates long after the final sip of whisky. In revisiting the past while carving fresh paths through culinary artistry, it shines brightly as a destination worth every gastronomic mile.

The Chinnery, 1/F, Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong

Photos: Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong|Video: Jack Fontanilla  

Nikkei Indulgence: A Peruvian-Japanese fusion master weaves culinary originality within the dreamscapes of Honjo

Tucked away in the vibrant neighbourhood of Sheung Wan lies one of the dining world’s best-kept secrets: Honjo. With its innovative spirit and a twist on traditional tastes, Honjo’s modern Japanese cuisine has captured the hearts (and stomachs) of locals and visitors alike – or, as their tasting menus highlight, Dreamers and Travellers. So if you are a foodie ready for an edible adventure, buckle your taste buds – things are about to get deliciously progressive.

With the arrival of Executive Chef Sandro Montero’s new à la carte menu, Honjo takes diners on a spectacular culinary journey that pays homage to Japanese techniques while incorporating rich, global flavours. You may be wondering what in the world a South American chef is doing serving Japanese cuisine in Hong Kong, but never fear – Montero brings some serious flair to the dining scene that you won’t want to miss.

The Peruvian culinary wizard’s almost 20 years of experience has taken him from the colourful streets of Lima to Brazil, Indonesia and beyond, armed with a fascinating take on Nikkei cuisine – Peruvian-Japanese fusion – that masterfully blends familiar tastes with unexpected elements. “My transition from Peruvian and Nikkei cuisine to Japanese dining at Honjo has been an exciting challenge,” shares the globetrotting chef, who landed in Hong Kong in October last year. “I believe my diverse background allows me to create culinary experiences that surprise and delight.”

He certainly delivers on this assertion. Honjo’s menu is a tantalising tapestry of gastronomical delights. From the very first bite of the unagi – a sweet, smoky fried eel sushi that’s dressed to impress with parmesan spicy sauce and a luscious tobiko mix – to a delicate hamachi salad drizzled with vibrant yuzu, your taste buds will be doing a happy little dance!

For those with a penchant for deep-sea delicacies, plump oysters luxuriate in a zesty yuzu, ponzu and sriracha dressing that won’t fail to leave you dreaming of ocean breezes and sandy shores. Who needs a beach when you can travel to Japan via Thailand and back with just a few mouthwatering bites? Lobster maki, meanwhile, is a truly extravagant roll, perfectly sous vide and topped with tempura asparagus and creamy mayo mentaiko sauce, that makes you question all past sushi experiences.

If you’re into group outings, diving into one of Honjo’s tasting menus is highly recommended. Whether The Dreamer or The Traveller, each weaves a captivating culinary narrative through evolving seasonal dishes that shout creativity and passion. Inventive sake and wine pairings heighten the drama. “The inspiration behind the menus is capturing the journeys we take in life,” shares Montero. “Each experience is designed to encourage guests to return time and time again.”

A chef is only as good as their team, and Chef Sandro is clearly a master of his art. “The team is the backbone of our kitchen, and every one of their contributions has shaped the vision for Honjo,” he elaborates. It shows, too – their harmonious work ethic and respect for ingredients breathe life into every dish, and a culture of joy and discipline is championed on each plate.

Stepping into Honjo is like entering a vibrant dreamscape of colours and textures that nod to Japanese aesthetics. It’s not just dining; it’s an event with themed rooms that allow you to escape the mundane. You find yourself daydreaming about the next dish – a comforting, sweet-savoury bowl of seafood kamameshi, perhaps, cooked in an iron pot that will surely warm the heart and fill the soul.

Whether you are a sushi novice or a raw-fish aficionado, Honjo’s modern Japanese cuisine offers a sensational experience that promises not only satisfaction but also surprises galore. Prepare your palate for an unforgettable journey – you might just find your new happy place in this delightful blend of tradition and innovation.

Honjo. 1/F,  77-91 Queen’s Road West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong

Photos: Honjo Video: Jack Fontanilla

Clarence De Lune: A new Michelin-starred chef lights up fresh French dining amid dazzling night views

Clarence has become a new culinary beacon under the guidance of Executive Chef Christophe Schmitt, a fresh arrival from acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurants in France. As he unveils his inaugural dinner menu, the excitement is palpable. DeSchmitt seems utterly thrilled to dive into the vibrant melting pot that is Hong Kong. “My journey in Asia is not just a professional shift; it’s about rediscovering my love for food through fresh perspectives,” he shares.

With chic décor combined with 25th-floor views that dazzle over bustling streets, the atmosphere removes any notion of pretentiousness while maintaining a refined aura. “It’s essential to create a space that feels both inviting and sophisticated,” notes the chef. And this restaurant achieves just that.

Dinner opens with the beef tartare served in bone marrow topped with a side of baguette toast. This dish is a jazz concert of textures and flavours, where the robust richness of the marrow encounters the delicate nuances of tender raw beef, all while a crispy crostini adds a relay of crunch. Schmitt remarks: “I wanted to modernise classic dishes. This tartare honours French traditions but introduces different textures for a surprising and fresh experience.”

Should you be seeking meat-less delight, look no further than beetroot and fresh goat cheese ravioli, a play of sweetness enveloped in divine pasta. The accompanying beetroot juice lends a colourful vibrance while ginger and lime pull everything into balance, revealing a dish that is as beautiful as it is delicious. Schmitt’s personal favourites infiltrate the menu; this ravioli harkens back to his admiration for artisanal goat’s cheese discovered in the South of France.

For those who find joy in the ocean’s gifts, smoked salmon with potato waffle dances over the palate, and BBQ octopus with potato foam delivers succulent tenderness that imparts warmth and satisfaction without crossing into heaviness. Clarence encourages patrons to embrace the camaraderie of shared dining; each dish has been crafted not only to tantalise the senses but also to foster moments of togetherness – the intent is for diners to savour flavours while creating memories alongside family and friends.

Transitioning into mains, beef fillet and foie gras pithivier stands as a beacon of indulgence. The dish teams luxurious beef and foie gras encased in flaky pastry with a truffle vinaigrette salad. It’s a decadent juxtaposition of textures designed to transcend through freshness. Schmitt reflects on this creation, noting the artistry of the pastry craft: “Each element must blend into a harmonious experience.”

Seafood aficionados will rejoice in skate wing cooked on the bone, where brown butter and spices add a depth that feels comforting. Paired with an endive and Comté salad, the freshness of the greens cuts through the richness of the fish – a perfect dance of flavours with each bite yielding a new sensory revelation.

End your meal with the chef’s playful take on dessert. Croffle with salted caramel and Normandy milk ice cream steals the show, marrying the crispy delights of croissant-cum-waffle into one daring vessel of sweetness. And if your heart longs for warmth, hot chocolate moelleux, with its molten chocolate centre served with sumptuous ice cream, promises sweet surrender.

Beyond the dishes lies a dining philosophy that emphasises seasonality and local ingredients, and Schmitt passionately invokes the necessity of this connection. The use of Japanese sea urchin, for instance, reflects his adaptability to local produce while maintaining the finesse of his French roots. “This balance highlights how local Asian ingredients can reinvent classic dishes,” he explains.

Clarence’s carefully curated and affordably priced dinner menu offers an exceptional experience, reinforcing the new chef’s vision of a dining journey where every detail has been examined.

True enough, Clarence is a testament to the magic unleashed when French tradition interlaces with the vibrant essence of Asia. Bon appétit!

Clarence, 25/F, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong

 Photos: Clarence   Video: Jack Fontanilla  

Palate Playground: Modern Indian wonderland Leela is joyfully rooted in the flavours of a vast culinary heritage 

The name Leela stems from the Hindu concept of ‘divine play’, and what better way to embody that than with a menu that dances between the ancient and the avant-garde? Chef Manav Tuli, an Indian gastronomy virtuoso, helms the kitchen with infectious passion and an innovative approach to traditional recipes. Each dish is a vibrant palette of colours and spices, telling its own story while being anchored in India’s rich culinary heritage.

As the seasons change, so too does the menu, unveiling a slew of new creations crafted to tantalise the taste buds while paying homage to regional Indian inspirations. One standout is jackfruit and soya keema dabeli, an imaginative reinterpretation of a beloved street food from Gujarat that, with its tangy tamarind chutney and luscious caramelised onions, conjures the all-consuming sensation of strolling through the bustling markets of India.

“My approach has always been to present food authentically while incorporating Ayurvedic principles and local ingredients,” explains Chef Tuli. “I believe in preserving the soul of Indian cuisine by honouring our roots while giving individual ingredients the attention they deserve through optimal cooking methods. This process is ever-evolving and represents an exciting journey for any chef.”

A collaboration between Tuli – formerly of Chaat – and Yenn Wong’s Jia Group, Leela opened late last year and already has awards in the bag, including the prestigious Michelin Recommended Restaurant accolade. The modern Indian oasis is quickly becoming a must-visit destination for foodies and culture-seekers alike.

If it’s culinary nostalgia you crave, look no further than the chef’s chicken tikka kulcha. This delightful dish fuses juicy grilled chicken with pillowy Indian flatbread, accompanied by marinated onions and an animated mint and tomato chutney. Chicken tikka mirza hasnu pays tribute to the court of Asaf-ud-Daulah, inviting anyone to savour char-grilled chicken infused with a symphony of spices such as cloves, cardamom and smoky mango powder.

For seafood enthusiasts, tandoori squid emerges as a masterpiece, showcasing tandoor-charred U3 squid marinated in Kashmiri chilli. And if anyone considers lamb a monotonous affair, they’ll have to think again. Kandhari lamb chop morphs into a succulent delight with ginger juice and pomegranate marrying the rich flavours of Afghanistan’s Kandahar region.

Diners can also indulge in duck jardaloo, a Parsi classic reimagined with duck breast, soaked in the divine sweetness of dried apricots, or savour the communal spirit of the chaat platter, a delicious array of tangy Indian snacks that traces its roots back to the reign of Emperor Shah Jahan. But beyond just tantalising flavours, it champions sustainability. Chef Tuli ensures that the ingredients are local and fresh, embodying the ethos of using seasonal produce to minimise environmental impact while delivering peak flavour. Lotus root and edamame pulao is just one example of this commitment, using locally sourced ingredients like lotus and edamame in a refreshing medley that speaks both to the land and the palate.

“I aspire for guests to leave with a sense of discovery connected to Indian cuisine’s essence – experiencing its depth of flavours and cultural significance through each dish telling a story rooted in my culinary journey across India’s diverse traditions,” he notes. “Dining at Leela should be more than just a meal; it should be an exploration of Indian culinary heritage that fosters connection and curiosity about what Indian cuisine offers beyond typical expectations.”

The dining escapism at Leela is not just about feeding the body, but nourishing the spirit with each delightful bite. It’s more than a meal; it’s an experience that connects you to the heart and soul of Indian cuisine – a vibrant montage of spices, history and joy. Whether you’re a connoisseur of Indian flavours or a curious newcomer, the culinary playground at Leela promises to captivate your senses. Gather your friends and jump into this immersive Indian feast that celebrates food, culture and the art of communal dining like no other.

LEELA, Shop 301-310, Lee Garden Three, 1 Sunning Rd, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 

Rustic Roots: Every bite at Racines whispers the charm of the countryside and the future of French cuisine

It’s 12:30 pm on a breezy autumn afternoon in Sheung Wan, but in the Racines kitchen, dinner is already in full swing. Backs are curved over dough that will soon become sourdough loaves, the evening’s sorbet is well in hand, and beloved signature staples are being prepped. The restaurant itself is homey and unhurried, with an easy-going vibe that hides the greater ambitions of the chefs. Not to mention, the surprising choice of ’90s to early 2000s hip-hop playing in the background.

Designed around an illustration of a seedling and its roots (‘racines’ in French), the cascading tasting menu showcases the finest seasonal ingredients and celebrates the rich culinary traditions of the South of France. Nestled in the heart of Hong Kong, this petite restaurant garnered a well-deserved Michelin star this year, solidifying its status as a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts.

“I want our guests to feel a sense of comfort in our dining room, to relax and enjoy each dish and the elements we’ve created to reflect the autumn season,” says executive chef and co-owner Romain Dupeyre, who was raised in Nice. His co-chef, co-owner and best friend, Adrien Castillo, was a fellow apprentice at La Chèvre d’Or on the French Riviera nearly 20 years ago.

“We want to offer our guests a sense of fulfilment from the quality and creativity on their plates and enable them to feel connected to the experience, especially at our chefs’ counter where they can have a front-row seat to the team’s creative process and interact with us.”

The six-course dinner tasting menu begins and ends with a humble vegetable reimagined in unexpected ways. The opening act, Camus Artichoke, is an inventive take on traditional duck-and-walnut salade Landaise. It expertly balances earthy notes with the vibrant flavours of southern France, creating a delightful medley that awakens the senses.

“I love to put a unique twist and artistry to each dish to spark curiosity and take our guests on a discovery of new tastes and textures,” says Chef Dupeyre. “I hope to ignite a sense of excitement and wonder about the culinary possibilities of the ingredients, and so far, it’s been very well received. Guests are often surprised when this dish is presented, because it’s not how they would have had it before, but they’re open to it, and delighted by it.”

The third course is a particular standout: Mediterranean red mullet, which pays homage to the classic bouillabaisse. The dual preparation of the fish is a bold culinary statement. For the first, a cold dish, the mullet is air-dried for three days, intensifying its flavour while imparting a delicate texture. Cured in a blend of salt, sugar, lemon and orange juice, it’s both refreshing and rich. The second preparation sees the fish pan-fried to perfection, the subtle crispiness complementing the tender flesh.

Brittany pigeon and Brandt beef from California, both elevated to new heights as main-course choices, are faultless. The pigeon, paired with figs at their seasonal peak, presents a perfect harmony of sweetness and rich, savoury flavours. Meanwhile, the ribeye flank, kissed by the smoky essence of a binchotan grill, embodies the heartiness of the season. The beef is enhanced by a selection of seasonal ingredients that deepen its flavour profile.

Following the cheese course served with house-made sorbet, Jerusalem artichoke takes centre stage, defying traditional dessert expectations. The chefs skilfully transform this root vegetable into a sweet finale that captures the essence of autumn. It’s an unexpected twist that not only surprises the palate but also leaves a lasting impression, marking a memorable end to the meal.

Complete with a root chandelier and a dining countertop engraved with the Chinese characters for prosperity and power, Racines provides irrefutable assurance that rustic dining is not and should not be at all intimidating. More than good food and more than a gateway to French cuisine, it is a sign of the times that beautifully marries tradition with innovation.

Racines, 22 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong.

Photos: Racines   Video: Jack Fontanilla

North Star: A fusion of history and contemporary mastery, Hutong’s hero dishes lead gourmets to heavenly highs

Hutong is not just a restaurant; it’s a vibrant canvas where the rich tapestry of Northern Chinese cuisine comes to life. Step into this exquisite dining venue and the elegant décor inspired by the traditional hutongs of Beijing envelops you in an atmosphere that feels both contemporary and steeped in history. 

A sensational four-hands collaboration recently united colleagues and culinary virtuosos Cheung Yung-keung, Head Chef of Hutong Hong Kong, and Ren Dingxu, Head Chef of Hutong Dubai, with each bringing their extensive expertise and deep-rooted passion for the cuisines of two distinct Chinese regions. “I sought to capture the essence of Shanghainese cuisine, which is known for its rich, savoury flavours and meticulous preparation,” shares Chef Cheung about his inspiration for the collaboration. “These dishes are my homage to the culinary traditions of Shanghai, brought to life through the lens of contemporary dining.”

A symphony of flavours began with an exquisite tea-smoked pigeon, a dish that pays homage to Shanghai’s culinary traditions. Tender squab is braised and delicately smoked with Biluochun tea leaves and fragrant roses from Jiangsu. The first bite was a revelation; the subtle smokiness danced on the palate, leaving a sophisticated aftertaste that lingered, enticing the senses for what lies ahead.

Next to arrive, the dim-sum platter was a feast for both the eyes and the palate. This trio featured a lobster dumpling, where sweet lobster meets a hint of spicy seafood essence; a peach gum mushroom dumpling, inspired by ancient Chinese medicinal texts; and a wagyu beef green chilli dumpling, combining premium wagyu with the fiery kick of Sichuan’s tiger-skin peppers. Each piece is a testament to the chefs’ dedication to quality and innovation.

Honouring tradition with a modern twist, the evening continued with the braised fillet of eel with bean sprouts and dark soy sauce. Here, a secret dark soy sauce recipe enhances the fish, resulting in a dish that epitomises tenderness and richness. The contrast of lightly stir-fried bean sprouts adds a fresh crunch, creating a harmonious balance that celebrates traditional Shanghai flavours.

Following this was Sichuan-style Chilean sea bass with bamboo shoots, providing a modern twist on classic preparations. Grilled to perfection, the fish is enveloped in a vibrant homemade jiao mao sauce, with the bamboo shoots contributing a refreshing texture that elevates the dish. The culinary journey took a bold turn with the spicy suckling pig with kung po sauce, a delightful nod to Shanghai’s braised pork. For this dish, pulled pork belly infused with Hutong’s signature chilli oil is paired with crispy suckling pig skin, creating a delightful contrast of textures and a symphony of spicy savouriness that tantalises the taste buds.

Another showstopper dish, Spanish red prawns with crispy rice in seafood broth, reflected the luxurious nature of this special menu. Prawns bathed in a rich, lobster-infused broth are complemented by crispy rice, providing a captivating crunch that enhances the seafood’s natural sweetness. The pièce de résistance was undoubtedly flaming wagyu beef char siu. A5 wagyu chuck ribs flambéed with rose liqueur and rum and accompanied by shiny Muscat grapes and kumquat create a dramatic presentation that is as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. The rich, tender beef paired with the sweet, tangy fruit delivers a flavour explosion that is unforgettable.

“These dishes are my tribute to the dynamic culinary heritage of my native Sichuan,” says the visiting Chef Ren.

As a sweet conclusion, the Golden Fortune dessert is a symbol of prosperity and celebration. Inspired by the lychee varieties of Lingshan County in Guangxi, this refreshing finale features lychee purée, ginger sorbet and lemongrass. It was an aromatic end to an extraordinary meal, with the optional wine and sake pairings further enhancing each dish.

Whether you are a connoisseur of Chinese food or a curious newcomer, Chef Cheung orchestrates an unforgettable culinary journey nightly at Hutong in Hong Kong. 

Hutong, 18/F, H Zentre, 15 Middle Road, Tsim Sha Tsui

Photos: Hutong Hong Kong   Video: Jack Fontanilla  

High Whisk: The Mira Hong Kong’s European restaurant is speeding to a whole new level of gastronomic excellence

Whisk at The Mira Hong Kong has undergone a remarkable transformation under the leadership of Culinary Director Sheldon Fonseca. With his extensive experience honed in Michelin-starred kitchens of London and Gaia and La Petite Maison in Hong Kong, the chef has brought his culinary expertise and passion for sustainability to elevate Whisk’s dining experience. The cuisine is firmly modern European, and from the moment you step into the restaurant’s warm, elegant atmosphere, it’s clear that an exceptional culinary journey awaits.

Sustainability is at the heart of Whisk’s culinary approach. Chef Fonseca has carefully curated a menu that highlights consciously sourced seafood, artisanal meats and locally grown produce. The restaurant’s partnership with the Sustainable Restaurant Association has earned it the highest 3-star rating, reflecting the team’s unwavering dedication to responsible sourcing and environmentally conscious practices. Much of its seafood, including lobster, shrimp and tuna, are MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) certified as sustainable.

Sweetly flavoured ama ebi, complemented by zesty notes of Japanese fruit tomato, finger lime and sea grapes, is a delightful starter that whets the appetite. Likewise, white tuna tartare, a delicate dish elevated by the luxurious touch of Kaviari oscietra caviar and the earthy, slightly floral notes of smoked eggplant.

A standout main that exemplifies Whisk’s commitment to sustainability is Boston lobster tail, cooked to perfection and served with a light yet creamy shellfish emulsion. For a true taste of the South China Sea, crispy amadai with local fish bouillabaisse and saffron rouille showcases the chef’s skill in crafting a light yet intensely flavoured dish.

Turning to the land, the menu proudly showcases artisanal meats from renowned producers. Westholme wagyu beef tenderloin, served with golden brown, buttery potato fondant, glazed shallots and a rich red wine sauce, is a deceptively simple yet exceptionally flavourful dish. Boucheries Nivernaises pork loin, with pork cheek, morcilla and a spiced pork sauce, is a testament to the restaurant’s commitment to sourcing the finest quality ingredients.

For a truly unique dining experience, plump for tea- smoked Cerizay pigeons, featuring tender pigeon from a small atelier in France. The bird is expertly smoked with lapsang souchong tea leaves and served with black garlic, turnip and potato purée.

Whisk’s culinary team has also created a must-try signature dish in the form of whole roasted yellow chicken for two. Stuffed with truffle and mushroom between the skin and the meat, this locally sourced three-yellow chicken is a delightful celebration of Hong Kong’s culinary heritage, elevated with the addition of Australian black truffle and served with Japanese genmai 10-grain rice and smoked chicken sauce.

The extensive wine list, recipient of Wine Spectator magazine’s Best of Award of Excellence, offers an impressive selection of contemporary and fine old-world wines, as well as biodynamic and organic choices, ensuring the perfect pairing for every course.

“Maintaining a stable and professionally fulfilled team, ensuring regular menu rotations with more unique ingredients, growing our guest base in a sustainable way that allows us to focus on continuously improving the flavours and surprising Hong Kong foodies with affordable, high-quality dining which you do not have to cross the border to enjoy – these are some of the things I’d like to put down on the list of goals,” shares Chef Fonsesca.

He also stresses the many advantages of developing sustainable business practices: “They enhance employee productivity, reduce cost and can result in increased profits. To make the sustainability initiatives successful, it takes dedication from senior management down to rank-and-file employees to embrace it fully. Its my role to set an example and nurture that spirit among the team through continuous training and education, to create a win-win for our guests, our shareholders and employees, while keeping the environment in the big picture.”

Whisk, 5/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

Photos: Whisk – The Mira Hong Kong   Video: Jack Fontanilla