Category: Collectibles

King of the Rings: ‘Pigeon blood’ rubies rule the roost

From a ‘pigeon blood’ ruby to an incandescent blue paraiba tourmaline, Sotheby’s recent auction items were quite the royal affair. Among the lots sold at the recent Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite Autumn Sale in Hong Kong, two opulent rings stood out.

The first is the Maniraja (“King of Jewels”) ruby – mounted and designed by acclaimed jeweller Bhagat. Unearthed from the legendary mines of Burma, the Maniraja weighs 13.26 carats and went for HK$81.7 million. Size aside, its most breathtaking feature is its vivid colour – the main factor that connoisseurs consider when assessing value. The deeper the hue, the more coveted the ruby. The Maniraja’s flawless cut intensifies its deep crimson, earning it the prestigious tag of ‘pigeon’s blood’. According to Burmese tradition, the finest rubies are the colour of a freshly killed pigeon’s first drops of blood. This rather ghastly metaphor has since been standardised by Swiss gemstone-certifying agencies.

While the paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring is less costly than its crimson counterpart, it’s still valued at HK$10 million. Since the stone was discovered in the 1980s, its mines in Brazil’s Paraiba state have been exhausted. For every 10,000 diamonds mined, there’s only one paraiba, making it truly one-of-a-kind.

New Guiltless pop-up turns your guilt to gold for a good cause

The premium luxury consignment e-shop Guiltless.com has popped up in real life for one month only. Guiltless’ first pop-up store is giving Hong Kong shoppers a chance to purchase luxury pre-owned items donated by local and international celebrities.

Over 50 celebrity-owned items will be up for grabs including a Valentino dress from actress Shu Qi, Michelle Yeoh’s signature trainers and a Gucci Dionysus from Michele Reis.  

Building on Founder and CEO Yen Kuok’s philosophy of promoting eco-friendliness in the wasteful fashion world, 70% of all celebrity sale profits will be donated to Crossroads International, a Hong Kong-based non-profit organisation dedicated to recycling.

So do your bit for sustainable fashion while beating ridiculous waitlists for limited-edition fashion items. Pop by the Guiltless pop-up store at Man Yee Building from now until 20 November 2017.  

Material World: Watchmakers turn to cutting-edge materials for new creations

Quill & Pad co-founder Ian Skellern explores the growing utilisation of exotic materials in crafting high-end timepieces and selects seven medallists of outstanding merit.

While we are still waiting for the 21st century to deliver on long-promised flying cars and paperless offices, the world of haute horlogerie is experiencing something of a tech evolution. Innovative and exotic materials are increasingly being used to craft cases, dials and even movements, much to the delight of watch enthusiasts who’ve grown tired of the same old, same old.

Take Italian jewellery powerhouse Bulgari for example. The brand is perhaps best known for ultra-thin watches – and holds world records in this category – but the masculine Octo Retro Maserati models are more casual and suitable for everyday wear. While a more luxurious pink gold Maserati GranLusso model exists, it’s the GranSport version that stands out – not for its steel case but for its black diamond-like carbon (DLC) coating. DLC is a hard-wearing and scratch-resistant treatment that, together with the black dial, contrasts nicely with the highly legible retrograde minutes and jumping hours.

Next to diamonds, the second hardest material is scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, which is why it takes Hublot weeks to sculpt the complex case parts for its Big Bang Unico Sapphire − including the case band, bezel and caseback − from solid blocks of sapphire crystal.

Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot, says the transparent case “reveals the soul of the watch – the Unico movement – and an absolute transparency extending to the strap, which has become invisible”.

“Beyond the symbolism and the play on words, the Big Bang is laying itself bare. It has nothing to hide and everything to show,” he says.

While the fine watchmaking category usually encompasses mechanical wristwatches, when it comes to high-precision mechanical movements, quartz-regulated watches cannot be beat. Breitling’s Chronospace Evo B60 features a SuperQuartz oscillator that is more than 10 times as accurate as standard quartz, boasting accuracy within 10 seconds per year (compared to 15 seconds per month).

The Evo B60 is a sporty flyback chronograph that’s capable of measuring from one-tenth of a second to 24 hours. But what qualifies the B60 for this list is its lightweight but strong grade 5 titanium case, which despite its generous 43mm size feels quite comfortable on the wrist.

Montblanc’s 1858 Collection, meanwhile, looks to history for inspiration. Taking a page from the famous Minerva chronographs of the 1930s, what makes the Automatic Dual Time model so interesting isn’t just its useful second time zone function, but also its bi-metal steel/bronze case.

Bronze is a traditional alloy made from copper and tin that develops a rich patina (tarnish) in open air, which may also turn skin green. To avoid this, Montblanc offers a caseback in steel, while the bezel and crown are forged from beautiful bronze.

With bronze covered, we work our way up the podium to gold. Some may question what’s so innovative about Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Extra Thin in yellow gold – one of the most traditional gold alloys.

Yellow gold (3N shade) was once the most popular precious metal alloy for watch cases, but the warmer pink gold (4N) and red gold (5N) came into fashion over a decade ago, causing yellow gold watches to virtually disappear. With its striking blue dial complementing the case, the Royal Oak Extra Thin reminds us why yellow gold was so popular in the first place.

When it comes to exotic materials, few can hold a candle to the C-SMC carbon case of Roger Dubuis’ Excalibur-Aventador S, made in collaboration with Lamborghini Squadra Corse. We reluctantly gloss over the skeleton movement (modelled on the engine of the Lamborghini Aventador) with its deadbeat seconds and twin 90-degree opposed balances linked via differential, each beating at 4Hz for higher precision, to focus on the carbon fibre case.

While carbon fibre is a relatively new material in the luxury watch world, Lamborghini has decades of experience using it in motor racing, and it shows. The watch’s impressively-sized 45mm case is remarkably lightweight.

Titanium, meanwhile – especially grade 5 titanium – is considered by many to be the best when it comes to high-tech materials and alloys, thanks to its widespread use in aerospace, aviation and medical devices. However, it’s not what you use but how you use it that counts, and titanium has rarely looked better than it does on F.P. Journe’s Octa Sport Titane. Some may baulk at wearing such a beautiful watch for playing sports, but the lightness of the titanium case and aluminium movement make the combination a sheer pleasure.

With the watch industry sharing technology with rockets and super sports cars, the results are bound to break new ground in a discipline often considered traditionalist. And as long as we continue to live in a material world, it’s only fitting that our watches rise to the occasion, serving as sterling examples of man’s mastery of the elements.

Text: Ian Skellern

Paradise Regained: Jaquet Droz’s new watch creates a mini Garden of Eden

Known for its elaborate decorative watches, Jaquet Droz has once again stunned the world of horology with its latest model, The Tropical Bird Repeater watch.

Inspired by Gauguin’s Post-Impressionist paintings, the watch depicts, on its dial, an exotic landscape, a Garden of Eden-like terrain, with each detail of flora and fauna depicted painstakingly.

At the heart of this Garden of Eden, amidst a realistic waterfall, is a hummingbird hand-carved and hand-engraved with meticulous craftsmanship by the maison’s top artists. A one-of-a-kind animation in watch-making history, its wings beat up to forty times a second, making it a piece of moving art. All other details, including a peacock, whose plumes open and close, a toucan that emerges at 3 o’clock to open its beak, a flight of dragonflies, whose wings glow in the dark, are equally jaw-dropping.

The timepiece is, however, not just a great looker; it’s high on performance as well. With features like the minute repeater powered by Jaquet Droz RMA89 movement and a power reserve of 60 hours with an oscillating frequency of 3 Hz, the watch is a collectible on all counts.

Limited to just eight pieces, this is one paradise a true connoisseur can’t afford to lose!

Sparkling Reds: Louboutin’s iconic rouge hue shines this holiday season

Fancy some sparkling reds this holiday season? No, not the wines – we’re talking about Christian Louboutin’s new Metalissime Rouge line.

The renowned French designer has given his iconic Rouge Louboutin a sparkly twist just in time for the holiday season. With the new Metalissime line, the designer’s signature red hue has a shimmering pearl sheen that’s sure to attract eyeballs wherever you go.  

Dab a little Rouge Louboutin Metalissime Silky Satin Lip Colour and Loubilaque Lip Laquer for that perfect pout. Or brighten your fingernails with a coat of opulent Metalissime Nail Colour. 

There’s no need to fret about finding matching accessories either, because the French brand’s upcoming Spring/Summer 2018 Collection will feature a limited edition metallic-finished Shoepeaks clutch.

You’ll find the new Metalissime Rouge Louboutin line at ChristianLouboutin.com or any Christian Louboutin beauty counter worldwide.

Rouge Louboutin Metalissime Silky Satin Lip Colour: HK$800
Rouge Louboutin Metalissime Loubilaque Lip Laquer: HK$755
Rouge Louboutin Metalissime Nail Colour: HK$450 for 13ml

Historic Horology: A look at Breguet’s storied past and modern triumphs

The latest edition of Breguet, Watchmakers since 1775 has just hit the shelves. Author and historian Emmanuel Breguet – a direct descendant of the company’s founder – announced the book release at an intimate event in Hong Kong last week.

The original tome was published in 1997 and gained such popularity among horology enthusiasts that it quickly sold out. Now watch lovers have a second chance to get their own copy.

The well-illustrated watch book allows readers an intimate peek at the life of founder Abraham-Louis Breguet. It also traces the French brand’s extraordinary rise from humble beginnings to royal watchmakers to its current international success. The latest edition also covers new acquisitions to the Breguet Museum and developments that have occurred since the last publication.

Mr Breguet also treated guests to a rare display of early 19th century antique timepieces. Each item boasted a rich provenance and was brought in from the Breguet Museum just for the occasion.

The new book – whose full title is Breguet. Watchmakers since 1775. The life and legacy of Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) – is now available at all Breguet boutiques worldwide.

Text: Tenzing Thondup

Class Act: Chopard’s new watch is a fine balance of form and function

Paying tribute to historical pocket watches created by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in 1860, Chopard has recently launched the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru, the only tonneau-shaped watch wound by automatic movement.

Designed for the modern connoisseur, the watch draws analogy from Grand Cru wine, known for its craftsmanship and premier quality. Just like the Grand Cru wine, which follows rigourous certifications, the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru too is attested by Poinçon de Genève, a top Swiss agency for certifying horological excellence.

Featuring an 18-carat rose gold strap and a white porcelain type dial with bold Roman numerals, the watch is as unpretentious as it gets. With nicely balanced proportions, the finishing of its case and movement, the micro-rotor winding feature, this is a must-have for the modern epicurean gentleman.

Priced at HK$174,000, the watch is now available at select Chopard boutiques at ifc Mall, Landmark Prince’s, Ocean Terminal, etc.

Make the write choice with Cross’s new pen collection

Cross has just launched an elegant addition to the Zodiac Series with the Year of the Dog pen collection. The Cross Year of the Dog pen is a stylish affair in black with deep-etched engravings on 23KT gold-plated inlays.

Cross has also added to its Sheaffer’s Calligraphy Collection this season. To mark the occasion, the maison invited two expert calligraphers to demonstrate the art of calligraphy on Sheaffer’s new calligraphy tools.

Ideal for beginners and experts alike, Sheaffer’s writing instruments add a touch of elegance on every piece of paper, from scrapbooks to formal invitation cards.

Coffee Culture: COVA celebrates its 200th anniversary

On the eve of its birthday bash, COVA’s CEO Paola Faccioli tells us how the brand successfully balances its 200-year Italian heritage with modern tastes and trends.

What makes COVA unique?

COVA is an experience. It’s not just a product store or a cup of coffee. Whether you’re stepping into our store in Milan, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Taipei, etc, you will be touched by all the tastes and atmosphere that are quintessentially Milanese. This adherence to tradition has helped us reach this 200 anniversary milestone today.

How do you tailor the COVA experience for local palates?

Our first expansion into Hong Kong over 25 years ago taught us a lot. You can’t just transplant our original café into a new destination and not make some changes. There’s a big back and forth, a cultural exchange local trends and our traditional roots that keeps us fresh in new markets.

A great example is our mango cake. It’s not something that we traditionally have in Italy, but it’s a huge favourite in Asia. So our Hong Kong chef created a mango cake to cater to local tastes first, and now it’s become one of our international favourites.

How has coffee culture evolved in Hong Kong?

When we first entered Hong Kong, nobody knew what coffee really was. It was not a common habit to drink coffee and very few had tried an authentic espresso or a cappuccino. We were pioneers.

With the advent of Starbucks and the globalisation of coffee, everything has changed. People are more aware of different types of beans and brewing methods. They have become more selective so they now recognise the high quality that COVA provides.

Do you have any special 200th anniversary products?

We’ve released a limited edition Capsule Collection which is a compilation of COVA’s best-selling products. There is also special 200th anniversary packaging for all our products from the world-famous panettone to delectable chocolates. We also launched some special menus for the big occasion.

What plans for the future?

We just opened a lovely and intimate café in Monte Carlo this September. It’s our first café other than our original Milan location in 200 years, so it was very exciting for us. We are also opening another store, a big one, in Dubai at the end of this year.

There are other major projects in the pipelines in the Middle East and even North America, so keep an eye out for those announcements, too!

Thank you.

Interview: Tenzing Thondup

Zao’s Wow Factor: Pretty pastels command high price

The majestic two-panel painting entitled 24.12.2002 – Diptyque II, by renowned Chinese artist Zao Wou-Ki, was expected to fetch an estimated HK$25 million at the time of print. The work went on the block at Christie’s recent autumn auctions in Shanghai. Diptyque II’s sale comes only months after 29.09.64 – another of the artist’s acclaimed oil paintings – sold in Hong Kong for a record-breaking HK$154.2 million.

Notable for his affiliation with abstract expressionists of the École de Paris, Zao was celebrated for his inimitable style of gestural painting which combined calligraphic brushwork with large-scale abstract compositions.

Although Zao’s works have always referenced the convergence of Chinese and European aesthetics, his creative output in the 2000s was characterised by a “bolder and freer” technique, peaking with the completion of Diptyque II in 2002. Grace Zhuang, a senior specialist of Asian art at Christie’s, says, “This diptych, sourced from a European collection, is certainly a masterpiece of his late period.”

The auction of Diptyque II echoes a sustained increase in demand for contemporary Chinese art. Christie’s spring sales in Hong Kong totalled $HK2.47 billion, so it would be no surprise if one of China’s most celebrated 20th-century painters exceeded market expectations.

Note: Diptique II set the record for most expensive artwork ever sold at Christie’s in Shanghai. The final hammer price was 33.6 million yuan.